Anyone have a fix for this or is a tune-up from Sennheiser in order?
I've taken the case off my 416 once before but didn't know how fragile
the internals are and closed it back up promptly.
Can anybody speak for what the turn around time is like when sending
Senn gear back to Connecticut for work?
Thanks! - d
P.S. I've tried taping around the XLR/mic seam.. I still get tapping
sounds.
I had that on one of my 416's. I had a new connector installed. I
don't mind doing my own repairs but I didn't want to work on the mic
so I sent it in. I don't think it was over $100 total. The easy fix is
to just put a small piece of tape around the mic when it's connected
and it won't budge. I did that for a few years before I finally had
it fixed.
"Jon Ailetcher" <jam...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:773d94cf-88a5-460b...@f20g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
I think i know what u mean, is there a neutrik or switchcraft part
that is a good match?
"Derek Hanson" <derek....@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:c6ad5391-1f7c-44ba...@r36g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
I think he means "The Whole Plug!"
Having similar problems....I'm using small O-ring from plumber/
hardware store.
Also, check the capsule.. some come un-screwed over a bit of time and
makes a clicking sound.
Better yet....get rid of those old T-powered mics.. you can't use
those with your new SD552.
Other mixers will look at you with shame if you have T-power stuff.
I doubt that, but yes I have been eying a new cs-3e to replace it for
90% of my work.
until then I'd like to make the clicking go away. I'll try the o-
ring, tried similar idea with a fragment of rubberband dropped into
the connector but no improvement.
thanks
-d
If the mic is that old you should just send it in for service as there may
be other degradations that can be solved. Have you put it up next to a new
416 to compare how it sounds?
> Better yet....get rid of those old T-powered mics.. you can't use
> those with your new SD552.
that's really stupid as any 48 to t adaptor will make the trick , also
i posted a link to guy who make it inside the cable
> Other mixers will look at you with shame if you have T-power stuff.
t mics( at least 416) where always sounded better to my ears ( the
high end is much pleasant), no need to replace mic which make the
same $ by other one which will cost 500 more
Jesus Ole, you can't take a joke or two. I'm picking up used T-powered
mics
really cheap now for myself.....
snip
not funny
A drop or two of "Crazy Glue" at the base of the pins will stop the
wiggling.
Eric
Oh, but ensure you have them fixed at the 'correct' position or else
you will have a wonky male xlr inside the mic... :)
-vin
> Maybe some of you have had this happen to one of your older 416's..
> The pins are loose and wiggle around when you touch them. They're so
> loose that even when the mic is plugged in the pins shift slightly
> causing loud taps in the audio.. At least, I think this is what's
> happening. When booming I hear this when doing a fast swivel move
> with the mic.
>
> Anyone have a fix for this or is a tune-up from Sennheiser in order?
> I've taken the case off my 416 once before but didn't know how fragile
> the internals are and closed it back up promptly.
Superglue and a big hammer works for me.
Bob Morein
(310) 237-6511
I had this same problem on a brand new 416, all i had to do to fix it
was tighten the only screw on the side of the mic that hold the pieces
together. All my problems were solved with a small screw driver.