If you use three hundred pound or heavier paper there will be little need to
stretch the paper. If you are going to insist on stretching anyway, then
there is little use in paying the additional cost of the heavier weight
papers. I prefer stretching myself, and use ninety pound paper almost
exclusively. I use the old-fashioned gummed paper packaging tapes that
are becoming harder to find as the pre-gummed plastic stuff has replaced
it.
***** ***** ***** ***** *****
***** + Jaxas from Texas + *****
***** Look for the silver lining, *****
***** But don't kill that goose! *****
***** *****
***** ***** ***** ***** *****
be very careful when you use masonite etc with watercolor paper. unless
you use acid-free paper between your watercolor paper and the
masonite/other surface then you risk transfering the acids etc from the
masonite/other to the watercolor paper, with the resulting spotting,
maybe visible right away, maybe visible only to your patron years down
the road.
>be very careful when you use masonite etc with watercolor paper. unless
>you use acid-free paper between your watercolor paper and the
>masonite/other surface then you risk transfering the acids etc from the
>masonite/other to the watercolor paper, with the resulting spotting,
>maybe visible right away, maybe visible only to your patron years down
>the road.
Jeanne, what about the glue and other chemicals in plywood? Would they have
a similar effect on the paper?
Don N.
>be very careful when you use masonite etc with watercolor paper. unless
>you use acid-free paper between your watercolor paper and the
>masonite/other surface then you risk transfering the acids etc . . .(etc.)
Good point. I don't use masonite or anything thinner than about half-inch
because when the paper shrinks it warps the board if it isn't thick enuff
to resist warpage. I use plywood primed with acrylic gesso. In the past
I have had good luck using a fibre composition board that is commonly
made for ceilings/soundproofing. It's nice because you can tack or staple
to it easily as an alternative to stretching the paper by taping it.
By the way, I soak my paper by submerging it in a tub for at least fifteen
minutes--half hour is better--then letting it drain and dry until all residual
water has disappeared from surface (about half hour) with paper laid flat
on wire frame or wire mesh support. If you hang paper to dry, all the water
runs to low end and takes forever to drip off. Drying it flat allows it to dry
evenly. If you try to tape sopping wet paper without this period of drying,
your tape will not hold (the kind I use anyway) because all the glue will
be dissolved away.
I use a spray bottle to wet the tape sas opposed to using a sponge. I then
burnish the tape to make sure it is firmly adhered to paper and board.
When my painting is complete, I remove tape from paper by soaking
carefully with a super-wet sponge applied along the tape only, taking
patience to be sure the tape is again thoroughly saturated before trying
to peel it away. I try and remove all residue of the tape by further sponging
and picking away. I don't worry too much about old tape adhering to my
support board if it is firmly adhered.
***** ***** ***** ***** *****
***** + Jaxas from Texas + *****
***** Look for the SILVER LINING, *****
***** But don't forget the goose *****
***** That laid the GOLDEN EGG! *****
>for mounting (stretching)
>on masonite or other rigid surface for watercolor painting.
If I were you, I wouldnt waste my time mounting or stretching.
In my opinion...
The paper and the paint lose their best qualities if the paper is pinned
down and unable to wrinkle, etc.
But Im not you.
Tell me what you are working on and perhaps i could give you more
information.
Jason
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This has been a message from : Jason A. Hutto (Brother Alphabet)
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