Need frisket methods for oil on canvas
R. Alzofon
Help me solve a problem:
I need to protect a specific area of a painting from splattering and
sweeping oil paint across entire surface. Since the protected part has
definate boundaries, I'd like to frisket accuratly to its contour. I'd
prefer not to get a machined looking paint edge, as razor cut frisket
might leave. I suppose what I really want is a fluid frisket that won't
hurt the oil painting.
Anybody got some good suggestions? Archival is desired. Thanks.
--
R. Alzofon
http://art.net/Studios/Visual/Rebecca
Barbie Kew
In article <max_crittenden-...@128.18.42.2>, max_cri...@qm.sri.com says...
> I'd
>prefer not to get a machined looking paint edge, as razor cut frisket
>might leave. I suppose what I really want is a fluid frisket that won't
>hurt the oil painting.
>Anybody got some good suggestions? Archival is desired. Thanks.
Since the "frisket" will be removed, I don't know what you mean by
archival. I haven't tried using it on canvas, but I can see no reason
that traditional watercolor frisket wouldn't work just as well. Rubber
cement is the other option. I would try it on a scrap piece first though.
Since you are working in oil paint, why would a razor-cut mask make
any difference? I can see that it would be a concern in a watercolor,
but with oil paints you can blend the edge any way desired, so why
worry about what the outline looks like when you strip away the
masking or frisket? I have used masking often in oil and acrylic paint.
I use everything available that can be removed easily -- including
professional masking films available from a drafting supply store.
--
888888888888888888
Barbie Kew
Smoke'n 'em.
888888888888888888
Andy Pearlman
In article <max_crittenden-...@128.18.42.2> max_cri...@qm.sri.com (R. Alzofon) writes:
>Help me solve a problem:
>
>I need to protect a specific area of a painting from splattering and
>sweeping oil paint across entire surface. Since the protected part has
>prefer not to get a machined looking paint edge, as razor cut frisket
>might leave. I suppose what I really want is a fluid frisket that won't
>hurt the oil painting.
The easiest thing to do is make two friskets - the actual to the contour
frisket, and one inside that one. Paint to the edges of the inside one, then
remove it. Take a fan shaped brush and go along the edges, not touching the
frisket.
Andy
--
Andy Pearlman - artwork at http://tsb.weschke.com/iiw/gallery/pearlman_a.html
apea...@panix.com
"What tip do you have to leave after staying seven years in a restaurant?"
R. Alzofon
In article <4lqi6a$i...@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu>, Bar...@smoke.com (Barbie
Kew) wrote:
> In article <max_crittenden-...@128.18.42.2>,
max_cri...@qm.sri.com says...
>
> > I'd
> >prefer not to get a machined looking paint edge, as razor cut frisket
> >might leave. I suppose what I really want is a fluid frisket that won't
> >hurt the oil painting.
>
> >Anybody got some good suggestions? Archival is desired. Thanks.
>
> Since the "frisket" will be removed, I don't know what you mean by
> archival.
Well, I am concerned that some of the frisket could absorb into the
freshly dried oil paint and change the paint film in an undesirable way.
> I haven't tried using it on canvas, but I can see no reason
> that traditional watercolor frisket wouldn't work just as well.
Water based? Are you sure that's a good idea? Doesn't sound good to me.
> Rubber cement is the other option. I would try it on a scrap piece first
> though.
That's the one I fear could partly soak into the freshly dried paint and,
well, fuck up the painting over time.
> Since you are working in oil paint, why would a razor-cut mask make
> any difference? I can see that it would be a concern in a watercolor,
> but with oil paints you can blend the edge any way desired, so why
> worry about what the outline looks like when you strip away the
> masking or frisket?
Because, I will be developing the exposed area over a series of days. The
layers of paint will dry between applications. I will not be able to blend
edges, because by the time I remove the frisket, the paint will be quite
dry.
> I have used masking often in oil and acrylic paint.
> I use everything available that can be removed easily -- including
> professional masking films available from a drafting supply store.
> --
professional masking films: cut with a razor, right?
Andrea Seri
There are many liquid frisket that works very fine with oils.
Maybe you can try at Dick Blick:
http://www.dickblick.com/
However if you have any problem to find it e-mail me and I will try to
send it to you !
--
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________
Andrea Seri: Hyper Illustrations
c/o Mediterranean Tattoo Studio via Fanti 12/a 58100 Grosseto ITALY
http://www.moonsite.com/galleria/andrea/
___________________________________________________________
N.B. In Italy "Andrea" is a name for male person, so I am MALE !
__________________________________________________________________
Barbie Kew
>Well, I am concerned that some of the frisket could absorb into the
>freshly dried oil paint and change the paint film in an undesirable way.
It sounds to me as if you have no desire to really LEARN anything.
If you weren't so insular, you could find all about friskets and masks
by reading those thousands of HOW TO books in library. I think you
just want to argue.
>Water based? Are you sure that's a good idea? Doesn't sound good to me.
I don't think anything I tell you is going to sound good to you, so I'll
desist from trying to help further. I assume you must paint ONLY over
oil-based primers and gessoes too.
ellie clemens
In article <max_crittenden-...@128.18.42.2>, max_cri...@qm.sri.com (R. Alzofon) says:
>
>Help me solve a problem:
>
>I need to protect a specific area of a painting from splattering and
>sweeping oil paint across entire surface. Since the protected part has
>prefer not to get a machined looking paint edge, as razor cut frisket
>might leave. I suppose what I really want is a fluid frisket that won't
>hurt the oil painting.
>
>Anybody got some good suggestions? Archival is desired. Thanks.
I've used watercolor masking fluid for the above purpose with acrylics.
I guess it would work with oils, too. In fact, it might be easier --
with acrylics, you have to be sure to get the masking fluid off right
after you apply the paint, otherwise the paint will dry over it, and
the masking won't be removable. To use it, you have to lay the painting
flat, so the fluid won't run. Just apply it with a throw-away brush, let
it dry, paint over it, then remove it with a rubber-cement pickup. Easiest
way to do this is to wipe off a bit of paint frmo the masked area, then
atart to pick up the masking with the rubber-cement thingy. You will be
able to get hold of an edge, and then just pull larger pieces of the
masking off.
-ellie
R. Alzofon
In article <4lt8o7$h...@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu>, Bar...@smoke.com (Barbie
Kew) wrote:
> In article <max_crittenden-...@128.18.42.2>,
max_cri...@qm.sri.com says...
>
> >Well, I am concerned that some of the frisket could absorb into the
> >freshly dried oil paint and change the paint film in an undesirable way.
>
> It sounds to me as if you have no desire to really LEARN anything.
> If you weren't so insular, you could find all about friskets and masks
> by reading those thousands of HOW TO books in library. I think you
> just want to argue.
>
> >Water based? Are you sure that's a good idea? Doesn't sound good to me.
Frisketing methods that I have tried in the past, and read about so far
just don't seem right for my current project. The nice thing about
newsgroups is that you can get ideas from people -- ideas that are
unpublished and unavailable any other way than word of (keyboard) mouth.
If you believe that rubber cement is not going to absorb into freshly
dried oil paint, or that H2O is OK, let's hear why. Maybe you could allay
my fears.
Actually, I like Andy Pearlman's suggestion for a double frisket.
>
> I don't think anything I tell you is going to sound good to you, so I'll
> desist from trying to help further. I assume you must paint ONLY over
> oil-based primers and gessoes too.
Actually, yes. White lead on linen. Wanna make something of it?
Barbie Kew
>Actually, yes. White lead on linen. Wanna make something of it?
Well, let's hope you include a gesso as well as a ground.
Hyde glue should suit your demeaner well, I would think.
Hot, smelly hyde glue, at that.
Bruce Attah
In article <4m15am$9...@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu>, Bar...@smoke.com (Barbie
Kew) wrote:
> Hyde glue should suit your demeaner well, I would think.
> Hot, smelly hyde glue, at that.
Ooh, nasty!