How Would You Mount a T-Shirt Design into a Frame?
radi...@aol.com
I've designed a cool T-Shirt in Photoshop, and the results came
out fantastic on the T-shirt. In facts, the image on the T-shirt
came out better than what i saw on the computer screen or
the paper test-prints i made.
No doubt this has something to do with the idea
that the print shop may have increased the color contrast and
saturation
in order to make up for the expected fading that will occur over
repeated washings.
At any rate, I find myself enjoying the image. But because
it's printed on the back of the shirt, i have resorted to hanging one
of the shirts on the wall, just to look at it.
I'd like to somehow mount this image onto canvas stretcher
bars,
or maybe glue it onto masonite....anyway that i could somehow
fix it flat onto a board so i can frame the image properly. I don't
think
the glue will work very well, because it will certainly alter the tone
of the image. If i stretched it on canvas, i would only be able to
stretch it very lightly, because the fabric is so thin.
Hey, maybe i could cut the image out and gesso only
the back. That would give me a more solid base to start.
How would you guys crack this nut?
Thanks in Advance,
Karen C - California
it. Now lay that pattern on foamcore and cut it out. Put the T-shirt
on the foamcore, so that it's "wearing" the shirt.
Now you can mount the foamcore in a frame.
--
Karen C - California
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Tia Mary
> ..... At any rate, I find myself enjoying the image. But because
> it's printed on the back of the shirt, i have resorted to hanging one
> of the shirts on the wall, just to look at it.
>
> I'd like to somehow mount this image onto canvas stretcher
> bars,
> or maybe glue it onto masonite....anyway that i could somehow
> fix it flat onto a board so i can frame the image properly. I don't
> think
> the glue will work very well, because it will certainly alter the tone
> of the image. If i stretched it on canvas, i would only be able to
> stretch it very lightly, because the fabric is so thin. .......
> www.DrSlick.org
I would do something like I do when I put a t-shirt into a frame or
Q-snap when doing waste canvas embroidery. I would cut the t-shirt
apart, leaving yourself a good amount around the design. If you want
the design and 2" of fabric to show, then draw a cutting line on the
t-shirt that leaves you at least 4" or 5" of fabric all around the
design. Cut a piece of WOVEN fabric AND a piece (or pieces) of Wonder
Under the same size as the piece of woven fabric. Now, lightly iron the
Wonder Under to the back side of the t-shirt and then iron that to the
woven fabric. Now you have a piece of fabric that is very stable and
won't stretch like the single layer of t-shirt would. You can now mount
the fabric to stretcher bars or lace/pin it to a piece of foam core and
frame it.
Wonder Under doesn't take a lot of heat to get it set and I'm sure
that you can't iron the front of the t-shirt directly. You should be
able to iron the design side of the t-shirt with a proper pressing cloth
so be sure to use one! Good Luck with this project & CiaoMeow >^;;^<
PAX, Tia Mary >^;;^< (RCTQ Queen of Kitties)
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radi...@aol.com
Karen C - California wrote:
> Lay the T-shirt flat on some old newspaper and trace carefully around
> it. Now lay that pattern on foamcore and cut it out. Put the T-shirt
> on the foamcore, so that it's "wearing" the shirt.
>
> Now you can mount the foamcore in a frame.
>
Hmm, interesting idea. Like the mounts
you see in the stores, to show off the shirts.
But the frame will be square, not shaped like a
shirt.
SLick
Amber
Erik A. Mattila
Use gum arabic as the glue, Slick. Won't stain anything. You know,
grade school glue - LePages. Non toxic...you can eat it. (I actually
framed an antique German velvet pntg once that was mounted with gum
arabic. After 50 years it was still holding on.)
radi...@aol.com
Tia Mary wrote:
>>
> I would do something like I do when I put a t-shirt into a frame or
> Q-snap when doing waste canvas embroidery. I would cut the t-shirt
> apart, leaving yourself a good amount around the design. If you want
> the design and 2" of fabric to show, then draw a cutting line on the
> t-shirt that leaves you at least 4" or 5" of fabric all around the
> design. Cut a piece of WOVEN fabric AND a piece (or pieces) of Wonder
> Under the same size as the piece of woven fabric. Now, lightly iron the
> Wonder Under to the back side of the t-shirt and then iron that to the
> woven fabric. Now you have a piece of fabric that is very stable and
> won't stretch like the single layer of t-shirt would. You can now mount
> the fabric to stretcher bars or lace/pin it to a piece of foam core and
> frame it.
> Wonder Under doesn't take a lot of heat to get it set and I'm sure
> that you can't iron the front of the t-shirt directly. You should be
> able to iron the design side of the t-shirt with a proper pressing cloth
> so be sure to use one! Good Luck with this project & CiaoMeow >^;;^<
>
Thanks for the info, Tia. I'm glad i posted this in the
textiles group.
I've never used Wonder Under, but it sounds like a type
of hot-melt glue for fabrics:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=%22wonder+under%22
So it sounds like i could use raw artist's canvas (no gesso, of
course),
and fuse/iron the shirt onto it, and then stretch it on the bars
like i normally would with a regular painting.
In other words, i could replace the "Woven Fabric" you
refered to above, with regular artist's canvas, right?
Slick
Tia Mary
> Thanks for the info, Tia. I'm glad i posted this in the
> textiles group.
>
> I've never used Wonder Under, but it sounds like a type
> of hot-melt glue for fabrics:
>
>
> http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=%22wonder+under%22
>
> So it sounds like i could use raw artist's canvas (no gesso, of
> course),
> and fuse/iron the shirt onto it, and then stretch it on the bars
> like i normally would with a regular painting.
>
> In other words, i could replace the "Woven Fabric" you
> refered to above, with regular artist's canvas, right?
>
>
> Slick
Hi Slick -- yes, Wonder Under is a permanent, heat activated, paper
backed adhesive fabric web used to adhere two porous materials together.
It is ironed to the back side of one of the materials, the paper
backing is then peeled off and the treated material is ironed to the
second material. It comes in about a 20" width and can be purchased by
the yard at any store that sells fabric and is also available in pre-cut
pieces (several yards in length) at all craft shops like Michael's or
Hobby Lobby, etc. There are also two different weights -- Light for
things that will be sewn together permanently (like clothing that will
have to be laundered, etc.) and Heavy for non-sewn craft applications.
Considering your application, either weight will do since your finished
project will not be put to any use other than a framed, decorative piece
hanging on the wall.
Wonder Under doesn't have to be used just on fabric either, as long
as something is porous and can take the heat of the iron, you can use
Wonder Under to heat bond it to another porous material. I have used it
to bond parchment paper to mat board and also to wood.
I would certainly recommend that you do a test piece (always
recommended) using a bit of the t-shirt remnant and a corner of the
artist's canvas. Different combinations of fabrics need different
temperatures and different ironing times to get a really good bond.
Just be careful that do not over heat the Wonder Under when fusing it to
the first fabric. You want to heat it just enough to get it stuck to
the first fabric so that you can carefully peel off the paper backing.
Let us know what you decide to do, OK? Sounds like an interesting
project :-)! CiaoMeow >^;;^<