Varnish for oil paintings?
Tony Wypkema
I'm thinking of trying Krylon Kamar varnish spray. The copy on the cans
claims that the varnish can be sprayed onto oils, acrylics and I think
watercolors, and its says the paintings can be reworked after
varnishing, and that the contents contain no chlorofluorocarbons (toxic
to the planet's ozone layer).
Removing the varnish is toxic and unpleasant, though, as it requires the
use of ammonia.
Damar varnish and copal medium, I was told, will turn yellow with age,
so they are not good choices, i understand.
Thank you.
Tony
Iva Reddnos
says...
>
>How do painters varnish their oil paintings so that the paintings can be
reworked?
>
>I'm thinking of trying Krylon Kamar varnish spray. The copy on the cans
>claims that the varnish can be sprayed onto oils, acrylics and I think
>watercolors, and its says the paintings can be reworked after
>varnishing, and that the contents contain no chlorofluorocarbons (toxic
>to the planet's ozone layer).
If that's what the manufacturer claims, then why question it?
I seldom have had reason to use an intermediate varnish in
my paintings. I use a mix of one third damar, stand oil, and
turps as a medium when painting anyway so that most of my
colors are mixed with the medium. If you're going to overpaint
it won't matter if the varnish yellows.
I've used Kamar for years as a *final* varnish simply for its
ease of use. It leaves a very thin coating, unlike brushing
on a final varnish of damar. But damar is traditional in oil
painting and I've used it too, both in aerosol form and
brushed on. I sometimes like the brushed and thicker finish
depending on the technique I've used in the painting.
myfan...@my-deja.com
Tony Wypkema <thepa...@design-write.com> wrote:
> How do painters varnish their oil paintings so that the paintings can
be reworked?
One word Shellac! They don't painters finish their works then
varnish them this has been the tradition for centuries.
>
> I'm thinking of trying Krylon Kamar varnish spray. The copy on the
cans
> claims that the varnish can be sprayed onto oils, acrylics and I think
> watercolors,
If my bladder had a manuel it would say the same thing!
>and its says the paintings can be reworked after
> varnishing, and that the contents contain no chlorofluorocarbons
(toxic
> to the planet's ozone layer).
A damar resin picks up in turpentine ergo if you use it
you can paint straight over the painting with anything
immersed in terps, also there are special made acrylic
resins made to wash away with mineral spirits, you
can paint these on instead of spraying them... And wipe
away then add,...
For high quality oil paintings any "commercial" varnish
of unknown content that can be ""reworked"" is likely
to be way worse than no varnish at all, much less Damar
or even copal(stick to the good quality ones)... No
varshish is better than a bad Varnish for archival
purposes...
>
> Removing the varnish is toxic and unpleasant, though, as it requires
the
> use of ammonia.
? This may work with Mastic resin or something but damar removes
with turpentine,
>
> Damar varnish and copal medium, I was told, will turn yellow with age,
> so they are not good choices, i understand.
Who told you that?
Actually a bad copal can do much worse but Damar is not known to be
that bad, liquid amber is supposed to be fine iff you can afford it,
IF the same person told you this is the same one who is trying to
sell you the Krylon -that person is an idiot! - cheap modern
synthetic resins(especially low-grade ones) have never been tested
over the long term, thousands of paintings have lasted centuries
with Damar or Copal, there are zero examples of 'Krylon' cheap
synthetic blend varnished that have lasted perfectly for centuries,
In the literature I've read "Damar" has been the one that restorers
have the easier time wiht.
>
> Thank you.
Your Welcome
>
> Tony
Bryn
>
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
EMitch8888
>> Thank you.
>
>Your Welcome
>>
Is this dripping acrylic ascerbity?
Don't use the goop in a close-room. Unless ya want to get high <G>
http://www.geocities.com/MadisonAvenue/1488/
homepage of virgineous martha stewart
Tony Wypkema
> > How do painters varnish their oil paintings so that the paintings can
> be reworked?
>
> One word Shellac! They don't painters finish their works then
> varnish them this has been the tradition for centuries.
>
> > I'm thinking of trying Krylon Kamar varnish spray. The copy on the
> cans
> > claims that the varnish can be sprayed onto oils, acrylics and I think
> > watercolors,
>
> If my bladder had a manuel it would say the same thing!
Well, you and I are certainly more skeptical than Iva, who, in the
previous letter in this chain, asked why I would question a
manufacturer's (Krylon's) claim.
> Bryn
You also disagree with 'Coldbozo', who I quote below from a letter in
another chain on this newsgroup. (The chain is called "Re: Copal medium
as varnish?"
> Bad Idea ,
> Copal, Amber and other resins , will expand at a different rate to
> oil, eventually cracking and destroying the picture .
> As does the rabbit skin glue [ through drying and swelling with
> moisture]
> All resins darken with age , more than oil and should not be used as
> a varnish .
> Ask at the National Gallery [D.C] for Michael Skalka - Conservation ,he
> can explain it best .
>
> Sunthickened Linseed or Walnut Oil [ Cold Honey Viscous ] ,or
> Stand oil [ really thick type ] will do all that the resins can do , and
> have as high a gloss .
> You just have to learn how to oil out and thin for medium use .
> K.S
Tony Wypkema
Tony Wypkema
I wrote:
> >How do painters varnish their oil paintings so that the paintings can be
> reworked?
> >
> >I'm thinking of trying Krylon Kamar varnish spray. The copy on the cans
> >claims that the varnish can be sprayed onto oils, acrylics and I think
> >watercolors, and its says the paintings can be reworked after
> >varnishing, and that the contents contain no chlorofluorocarbons (toxic
> >to the planet's ozone layer).
>
Iva Reddnos wrote:
> If that's what the manufacturer claims, then why question it?
I think that when a manufacturer makes a claim, a more wise approach is
to ask, "Why believe it?" rather than, "Why question it?"
As examples of products that were claimed to be safe, and proved unsafe,
I give the following: the atomic and military industries (Three Mile
Island, Chernobyl, Gulf War syndrome, soldiers in the '50s exposed to
radiation from atomic blasts), silicon breast implants, Bhopal, the
Challenger space shuttle, thalidomide, asbestos, DDT, aspartame (there
are about 700 medical reports showing its toxicity), fossil fuel
industries (global warming) the cigarette industry, the food and
agriculture industry (mad cow disease) The Titanic, the oil industry
(Exxon Valdez), MD-11 plane crash victims of faulty wiring, Zeppelins,
the medical establishment (the U.S. National Science Council says it
kills more people each year in the U.S. by medical malpractice than are
killed in motor vehicle accidents in the U.S.), the Canadian Red Cross
(proved to have infected many people HIV/AIDS by not properly screening
blood donations), pet rocks, (highly questionable at least :-)) and the
Iris giclee company that sold me giclees that were supposed to last for
at least 50 years without fading.
Tony
Iva Reddnos
says...
>> If that's what the manufacturer claims, then why question it?
>
>I think that when a manufacturer makes a claim, a more wise approach is
>to ask, "Why believe it?" rather than, "Why question it?"
Sorry. I wasn't referring to the safety aspects of
the product. Everyone should be wary when spraying
aerosols. I 'usually' wear an organic respirator.
My remark was directed specifically at your question
of 'intended use' as a varnish for oil paintings and
since the manufacturer says this product is intended
for that specific use, I would not NOT use it if it
answered my needs. Is that any clearer?
I guess I am by nature a more trusting soul and
usually go with the claims of a manufacturer who has
been marketing their products for years and is, as
far as I know, reputable.