oil painting medium

[chuck]

I'd really appreciate some practical advice regarding oil painting
medium for a beginner (me). I've read so many different recipies,
ratios, suggestions, that my head is spinning. For instance, I've
read that a good simple medium is one part stand oil to four parts
solvent. Then shortly afterward I read that stand oil should never be
used in a medium. Then just after that I read that solvent should
never be used in a medium.

I have been painting in watercolour for about 11 years and am just
discovering the amazing qualities of oil paint. I have started out
with student grade "winton" paints and have been using daler-rowney
medium. I believe its a combination of oil, solvent and varnish in
one bottle (the label is vague). Its not thinning the paint in a way
I like, its sticky and dries far too quickly for me.

I'd appreciate any advice, even if it sets my head spinning again!
Thanks,

Bonnie

[Esther Aigh]

In article <cf7dc537.02032...@posting.google.com>,
ckersh...@yahoo.com says...

>
>I'd really appreciate some practical advice regarding oil painting
>medium for a beginner (me).

First advice if you're serious about
pursuing painting - buy a copy of the painter's "bible."
THE ARTIST's HANDBOOK, by Ralph Mayer, latest
edition.

The simplest medium is a half and half blend of
artist grade turpentine and linseed oil.

You can add stand oil to give more "tack"
or sun-thickened linseed oil, varnish etc.
as your painting experience
demands. If you need faster drying, a drop
of Cobalt drier added to a palette cup
of the medium will help.

Someone's going to reply to this by saying
that turps are dangerous - you'll get allergies,
etc. But that's the simplest mix I can offer
a beginner. If you find yourself allergic, then
maybe you need to reconsider using oil paints
in the first place - go with acrylics or alkyds
instead.

[stormcrow]

> The simplest medium is a half and half blend of
> artist grade turpentine and linseed oil.
>
> You can add stand oil to give more "tack"
> or sun-thickened linseed oil, varnish etc.
> as your painting experience
> demands. If you need faster drying, a drop
> of Cobalt drier added to a palette cup
> of the medium will help.
>
> Someone's going to reply to this by saying
> that turps are dangerous - you'll get allergies,
> etc. But that's the simplest mix I can offer
> a beginner. If you find yourself allergic, then
> maybe you need to reconsider using oil paints
> in the first place - go with acrylics or alkyds
> instead.
>
>

I agree with Esther.
I use a 50/50 mix of linseed and rectified turps, at the end of the day
though you have to experiment with lots of different mediums this is because
what I find to be ideal for my style of painting can be totally impractical
for other peoples styles.

[Ridama]

A medium is a vehicle(stand or linseed usually),plus a binder(a varnish, damar
or copal are most common)Plus a solvent(turpentine,turp substitite,or mineral
spirits usually)plus a drier if you choose to use one.The store bought mediums
are more often than not mixed primarily for glazing so they're called (short)
mixed to dry quickly.A long medium refers to retarding your medium(less
binder,no drier
sometimes)this slows your drying time.The extreme long medium would be to add a
few drops of oil of cloves.
If you like it slow,take either sun thickened linseed oil or stand oil for your
vehicle.start with this say 70-80% add about5%-10% varnish,thin it to your
liking with your solvent(If damar is the varnish only turpentine will do for
this).Start with no drier at all.Remember the fatter the mixture(more tube
color)the slower the drying time also.
I hope this helps . Rick,e-mail me if you need to,
Rid...@aol.com

[Andrew D]

In article <20020327213312.193$E...@newsreader.com>, danf...@yahoo.com(Dan
Fox) wrote:

+ckersh...@yahoo.com (chuck) wrote:
+> I'd really appreciate some practical advice regarding oil painting
+> medium for a beginner (me). I've read so many different recipies,
+> ratios, suggestions, that my head is spinning. For instance, I've
+> read that a good simple medium is one part stand oil to four parts
+> solvent. Then shortly afterward I read that stand oil should never be
+> used in a medium. Then just after that I read that solvent should
+> never be used in a medium.
+>
+> I have been painting in watercolour for about 11 years and am just
+> discovering the amazing qualities of oil paint. I have started out
+> with student grade "winton" paints and have been using daler-rowney
+> medium. I believe its a combination of oil, solvent and varnish in
+> one bottle (the label is vague). Its not thinning the paint in a way
+> I like, its sticky and dries far too quickly for me.
+>
+> I'd appreciate any advice, even if it sets my head spinning again!
+> Thanks,

+Hi, Bonnie -

+Here are a few things to start -
+
+- Don't begin by trying to mix several colors in intricate combinations, as
+some 'how to' books teach. Stick to simple two-color, or one/two colors and
+white mixtures and get them down first. Your color knowledge will come as
+you experiment; after awhile it becomes second nature.
+
+- Don't get hung up on details of paint brands and thinning agents, brush
+sizes and types, etc. Keep it simple and paint, paint, paint. Somebody can
+tell you that alizarin crimson contains purple, while cad red light
+contains orange - but it doesn't mean anything until you've experimented,
+seen the results many times, and internalized it.
+
+Good luck!

I can now understand why some people here question the value of a college
art education. Someone asks for advice on mediums and gets told by a
devout art scholar not to worry about the differences between various
reds.

I use an off-the-shelf "Lean" medium (Archival Low Odour in my case) in my
initial lay down of tones. This extends the colours, improves flow and
ensures this layer will tack-off a little before I begin working over it
with true colours. I then use a little of this same medium when I apply
my shadow colours but I use no medium when I apply the thick highlight
colours over the top. This is the standard "fat over lean" principle which
ensures the underlayers dry faster than the top layers. Sometimes I'll use
a "Fat" medium (Archival Low Odour again) to apply final "spot" highlights
and signature.

I wouldn't worry about mixing your own mediums until you've worked out
what qualities you want in a medium (slower, faster, thicker, thinner...).

Since you've been painting for 11 years already, you probably already know
that Artist colours can/will deliver better results than student colours
and that you need to take note of colour permanence if you're selling your
work and expect it to last.

Andy D.

"I'm a great speller - but a hopless tpyist!"