Dean
My most recent discovery was a halogen floor lamp that
directs all the light against the ceiling -- and assuming
you have a white ceiling you get back a diffused light
that is not only sufficient for painting by but I now
have one of the floor lamps as my reading lamp in my
living room too. Before that I was always bothered by
glare, no matter the light source I used. Reflecting
all the light from the ceiling has overcome that problem.
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It depends on how far your prepared to fiddle about! There are a lot of options
from halogen bulbs to day-light bulbs, my personal favourite. is the use of
'corrected' filter sheets that I get from a specialist in theatre lighting in the
UK (are you a UK artist?). They have a number of different 'temperatures' for all
the different types of lights that need to be corrected. You can, for instance,
correct ordinary domestic light bulbs using one of the correct filters!.
It works out cheaper to do it this way as well!.
Have you tried your local photography shop?.
Hope this is of some help.
Ken Beyer
UK based Artist Painter
http://www.telinco.co.uk/beyer
DeloID wrote:
> What methods of "correct" lighting (5000K) do you use for night time painting.
>
> Dean
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Nita
ni...@nitaleland.com
Exploring Color Web Site http://www.nitaleland.com
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DeloID <del...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000211003851...@ng-fi1.aol.com...
>I've also heard some
>artists use halogen light, but I'm concerned about the heat from halogen
>bulbs.
It should be a concern, but Most manufacturers of halogen
lights provide ample warnings in the packaging against
misuse. The floor-style lamps I use
have a safety shield over the bulb that keeps anything
from inadvertently dropping onto the hot bulb. The fact
that these are floor lamps with the reflector pointing
upward makes it highly unlikely anything is going to be
placed on top of them anyway. I like the ability to
move the lamp around as needed versus having permanently
installed fluorescents that can't be moved. But if a
person has a studio where fluorescents can be installed,
that would be the ideal I think. I don't have that luxury.
My studio is not of my design or making and the floor lamp
is an ideal solution in my instance. Cheers, Jaxart
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> by what doesn't work. Until I solve the problem I will probably limit my
> night-time painting. Any suggestions welcomed. I don't really want to go
to
> a floor lamp if I can help it.
My current studio is in the basement so there isn't any difference in
painting in day or night. I use two 40 watt florescent 4 feet tubes from
Phillips F40CW daylight bulbs. (046677-108458) I When I take a painting
outdoors, I am not surprised by any changes in the color. (I am using
acrylic paint.) In fact it almost always looks better if there is any
differences in the color relationships in the painting. I used these
lights for years in my office designing fabrics and matching colors to
standards. I never had problems with them and in fact convinced many
menswear and womenswear companies to put them in their design and showrooms.
It always amazed me how multimillion dollar companies showed their wares in
lousy lighting. The Italians were the worst!
I don't know what you do with your paintings but if possible you might want
to try to match the lighting in your studio to the place where the paintings
will be displayed such as a gallery or your living room. That is the place
where the color has to be right.
Keep in mind that almost any color will look slightly different in different
rooms and/or at different times of the day. The only time it looks the same
is when it is under identical light conditions.
good luck
G.
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Nita
ni...@nitaleland.com
Exploring Color Web Site http://www.nitaleland.com
"What's New!" http://www.nitaleland.com/new.htm
Roger Keyser <rke...@iu.net> wrote in message
news:38B59823...@iu.net...
I think the problem is
> that the colored light acts like a filter so you can't see the respective
> colors. Thus you over paint that color. Or is it that it nullifies the
> opposite color on the color wheel. Thus the red bulb would cause my
greens to
> look grayer. Anyone know more? Maybe it is a combination affect. I just
go
Nita Leland wrote:
>
> The most balanced light is 5500 degrees Kelvin found in several brands of
> full-spectrum fluorescent bulbs. Anything in that range 5000-6000 would
> probably work. I don't know what the gro-lights or aquarium lights measure.
> You're right about the color effect of light tints--if your light is
> reddish, it will make yellows look orange, if greenish, will make reds
> grayer and duller. If you know the conditions a piece will be viewed under,
> you can paint using that type of light, but for unknown conditions, the
> full-spectrum gives you color that will work in daylight, incandescent or
> regular fluorescent light (always looks best in daylight, though.)
>
> --
> Nita
> ni...@nitaleland.com
> Exploring Color Web Site http://www.nitaleland.com
> "What's New!" http://www.nitaleland.com/new.htm
The is nothing like full spectrum fluorescent light. The best tubes have
several but separate vawelength spikes so balanced that the light seems
uniform.
However, if you use pure pigments, some of them may have narrow
spectrum characteristics, that are enchanced with the spikes.
Incandecent lights have a continuous spectrum, but usually heavily
red shifted, and should be filtered with some broad spectrum blue
f.ex. not cobolt blue.
- lauri
>I too was afraid of the heat from halogen
>and since I live in Florida, who wants to stand under the hot lights?
The floor lamps I was referring to do not throw off enough
heat to make the room noticeably warmer. It is a very small
bulb with minimal surface area that gets hot enough to ignite
paper items. All light is giving off heat, even flourescent
ones if you feel of the transformer.