Pine air-layering
Nassar, David
I use the technique listed in most books of cutting away the
cambium layer of the branch in a ring around the branch. Depending
on the width of the branch I wish to air-layer, I cut a ring of about
two to three times the thickness of the branch to ensure the cambium
layer won't grow back and join each other. Then I paint the upper
apart of the cambium layer with rooting hormone, wrap very damp spagnum
moss around the whole cut area, packing it in, then wrap in thick clear
plastic, followed by black plastic over the top.
Living in Melbourne Australia Zone 9-10 I've had success in starting these
air-layers in late summer early autumn. I have only attempted air-layers
using
branches of maximum 2-3 cm. So far I haven't had one fail. I am trying some
now
and started them in the middle of winter to see what results I get. Most
show
root development within 1-2 months however I don't remove for at least 5-6
months.
I have also air-layers mugo pine successfully. However mugo pines don't like
our
hot summers.
David Nassar - david...@mynd.com - Melbourne Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy Rutledge [mailto:k...@FASTLANE.NET]
Hi all,
I would be interested to hear details of any successful air-layers of black
pine any of you may have done. Details, as in which method, what medium
used (soil, moss), how long it took, when started, degrees of success,
etc...
Thanks,
Andy Rutledge
k...@fastlane.net
********************************************************************************
+++++This list is supported, in part, by a contribution from Peter Dobor+++++
>>-->> The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ <<--<<
To leave the list, send SIGNOFF BONSAI to: LIST...@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
Peter Whincup
interesting post! All my references say rooting a B.P. by air layering
will take anything from one to two years, you are getting results as
fast as I would hope to get on easy peasy maples under optimum
conditions. What is your secret? Anything to do with the heat, are you
soaking the moss in 4x? I see you ring the bark to a greater width than
is usually suggested? I will be interested if anybody else has equalled
your speed.
Best wishes Pete
--
Peter Whincup
Nassar, David
A few additional pieces of information are that I have only taken air-
layers from nursery stock that I was training and the growing season here
is very long. Although it gets very hot in summer here (over 40degC for five
days straight is not an uncommon thing) the potensai in nursery pots survive
fine but the ones in bonsai pots will fry very quickly expecially if you
don't have the right soil. Anyway I'll follow this email up once have a
result
with an airlayer I tried in early July (mid winter here) to see how quickly
the roots develop.
David Nassar - david...@mynd.com - Melbourne Australia
--
Peter Whincup
********************************************************************************
Peter Whincup
progress.
Cheers Pete.
mark jessop
but is it possible to take cuttings of pines and root them?
-----------------------------------------------------------
Got questions? Get answers over the phone at Keen.com.
Up to 100 minutes free!
http://www.keen.com
Brent Walston
>I apologize for my ignorance regarding the propogation of pines
>but is it possible to take cuttings of pines and root them?
Mark
Yes, it is possible to grow pines from cuttings, but in general it is more
difficult than other species. Timing is important, as well as maintenance
of a suitable environment. Rooting times are also generally longer than
other species.
Personally, I have rooted Pinus mugo 'Valley Cushion', Pinus thunbergii
cultivars, and Pinus parviflora 'Zuisho'. All three were rooted from wood
grown late the previous season and started in mid spring. The timing
depends more the condition of the wood rather than the calendar and will
even vary from year to year.
Pinus mugo and P. thunbergii seem to do better with a high IBA hormone
(3%), and from what I have seen so far for 'Zuisho' (this year was the
first attempt), hormone strength doesn't seem to make a lot of difference.
Cuttings taken in April are usually rooted by the end of August. That's an
awfully long time to keep a pine cutting alive without either drying it out
or having it rot from too much mist. If they aren't rooted by the end of
August, they seem to be doomed. Very few have overwintered and rooted out
the following spring. I now just throw them out if they haven't rooted and
start a new crop the following spring.
I don't see much advantage to rooting P. parviflora since the species
itself is notoriously prone to fungal root problems, at least in this
country. I think the better route is to graft them to P. thunbergii, which
is an excellent understock. If grafted very low, there are no unsightly
union problems. If grafted high (to the first branch) you get a fat trunk
and nice scaly bark. This is often done in Japan. The trunk usually is
trained to take a turn at the first branch (at the graft union) to help
make the bark transition less jarring.
Rooting P. thunbergii cultivars, especially the cork bark types is very
exciting. Grafting them is problematic. Unless they are grafted absolutely
just above the existing understock roots, the corky bark will appear to
'float' above the smoother bark of the understock. Cutting grown plants
avoid this problem, with the added benefit of having corky surface roots as
well. Rooted cuttings of P. thunbergii are also very vigorous.
Brent in Northern California
Evergreen Gardenworks USDA Zone 8 Sunset Zone 14
mailto:bon...@pacific.net http://www.EvergreenGardenworks.com
Aytham Koh
I would like to share my experience with air-layering (AL) a Japanese Black Pine (JBP)
This specimen is a result of my first successful attempt at air-layering a JBP.
https://ibb.co/wrqR61D
https://ibb.co/MDgRFtx
https://ibb.co/1mJSTqy
https://ibb.co/h85p9YH
https://ibb.co/d4DnVPb
https://ibb.co/cw9srZT
Date of Air-Layer: 10 April 2022
Date of Removal & Repot: 15 July 2022
Tools:
- Grafting knife (alcohol swabbed pior)
- Plastic capsule (transparent & black)
- Clonex Gel (Purple)
- Spaghum Moss (Soaked in boiling water prior, and cooled down)
Upon cutting a 2-3 cm ring where I have chosen my air-layer position,
I use a Q-Tip to scoop a generous amount of Clonex Purple Gel,
and apply right at the top, on the exposed wood (cabium removed), and at the bottom.
I scoop up a generous amount of spaghum moss with each 1/2 capsule, and position in between the the AL position.
and I proceed to secure the capsule with wires.
One can use (a long) normal plastic bag to wrap around the air-layer with cable ties.
Tie securely at the bottom, Tie loosely at the top (so that you can water from the top if the spaghum moss dries out).
I had a failed attempted with another air-layer for I choose an apex that was growing too vigourously. (Air Layer on 10th April 2022 too). Sadly, that vigorous one began to dry out under full sun, and sadly no roots appeared at all after 5 weeks.
The above successful example is taken from the 1st branch from the bottom trunk as it was stretching out too much.
In fact, this successful air-layer is from the weakest JBP in my garden, no direct sun whatsoever, and I am surprised the roots was engulfing the spaghum moss around the capsule faster than expected.
I have 2 more Air Layered JBPs which I did on the 7th May 2022. This time, I stopped using capsule for fear of drying out too much.
So I used the traditional method of securing the air layer + sphagum moss with normal plastic bag and cable ties.
As of 18th July 2022, I had noticed very thick roots stubs appearing.
As these 2 selected JBPs are significantly taller, and thicker than this one, I have decided to allow the roots to grow stronger.
Chopping sometime in 2 weeks, beginning of August 2022.
Air Layering JBPs is definitely possible, I think everyone should try it sometime. :)
Happy Growing and Air-Layering everyone...
Sending Green Vibes to all of you ~~~
AK