bees wax to seal wood plugs?
Telefina
porous. I was told to use beeswax to seal them, but I'm unsure of the
method. Does the wax have to be melted first or do I just rub it on?
if i have to pour melted wax on, how much and how do i scrape off?
any info would be greatly appreciated.. :)
--
mailto:tele...@ilos.net
http://www.geocities.com/SouthBeach/Sands/2644
Henrik Nilsson
piercer that I should seal it with tea tree oil (misspelled?)
/H.
Geoffrey
very irritating.
Your goal should be to keep the jewlery from becoming rancid with body
stuff.
I would not use a wooden plug in a piercing that is less than completely
healed.
Geoffrey
Henrik Nilsson wrote in message <36187263...@home.se>...
timo
>
> I made some 1ga plugs out of wood dowling and they're currently very
> porous. I was told to use beeswax to seal them, but I'm unsure of the
> method. Does the wax have to be melted first or do I just rub it on?
> if i have to pour melted wax on, how much and how do i scrape off?
Porous woods = bad. Grains swell.
Consider looking into more dense hardwoods. Read Erika's page at
http://www.spiritone.com/~organic .
I use Jojoba oil to oil my plugs on a regular basis.
timo (still incapable of making a sensible post _not_
about No1KS)
tod & Misha
>
> I made some 1ga plugs out of wood dowling and they're currently very
> porous. I was told to use beeswax to seal them, but I'm unsure of the
> method. Does the wax have to be melted first or do I just rub it on?
> if i have to pour melted wax on, how much and how do i scrape off?
>
>
years and have always used olive or peanut oil to seal it. Just clean
them every once and a while and reoil them.
Misha :-)#
pie...@inxpress.net
tod...@communique.net wrote:
> Telefina wrote:
> >
> > I made some 1ga plugs out of wood dowling and they're currently very
> > porous. I was told to use beeswax to seal them, but I'm unsure of the
> > method. Does the wax have to be melted first or do I just rub it on?
> > if i have to pour melted wax on, how much and how do i scrape off?
> >
> > any info would be greatly appreciated.. :)
I'm not sure about the bees wax process, although I have heard of people
using it. What I would stress though is that not just any type of wood is
appropriate for wearing in piercings; even healed lobe piercings. Some woods
are simply too porous (even when sealed) and others, as I understand it, can
actually be toxic to the human body. Hopefully you did some research on this
before fashioning and wearing the plugs. Best of luck.
> Actually you don't need to seal them with wax, I have worn wood for
> years and have always used olive or peanut oil to seal it. Just clean
> them every once and a while and reoil them.
When I wear plugs, I simply oil them with some jajoba oil. It seems to work
really well. Of course, different things work better for each person.
--
Derek Lowe (member, APP)
Steve's Tattoo and Body Piercing
1148 Williamson Street
Madison, WI 53703
T
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timo
>
> timo wrote:
> by on a regular basis, do you mean you do it repeatedly to one piece?
> how often must this be done?
>
> thank you for your input :)
My pleasure, dear telefina! I try to oil weekly in the ears.
I notice that my wood becomes very dry, probably from exposure
to water....
--
timo
"RABbits are fun to hang with."
b@|+/-\1 11/5/98
Telefina
Geoffrey wrote:
> I would not use a wooden plug in a piercing that is less than completely
> healed.
--
mailto:tele...@ilos.net
http://www.geocities.com/SouthBeach/Sands/2644
Telefina
> Porous woods = bad. Grains swell.
>
> Consider looking into more dense hardwoods. Read Erika's page at
> http://www.spiritone.com/~organic .
I don't know where to buy them. I use the wood from mcdermot lumber,
and I don't have the tools or anything to make harder wood into a
cylindar.
> I use Jojoba oil to oil my plugs on a regular basis.
by on a regular basis, do you mean you do it repeatedly to one piece?
how often must this be done?
thank you for your input :)
--
mailto:tele...@ilos.net
http://www.geocities.com/SouthBeach/Sands/2644
Ulf Scherov
> timo wrote:
> > Porous woods = bad. Grains swell.
> >
> > Consider looking into more dense hardwoods. Read Erika's page at
> > http://www.spiritone.com/~organic .
>
> I don't know where to buy them. I use the wood from mcdermot lumber,
> and I don't have the tools or anything to make harder wood into a
> cylindar.
Check the yellow pages, or better yet, swing by a fine carpenter; he/she
should be able to either make the plugs for you, sell you some small
pieces of wood (or if you're lucky even GIVE them to you... the amount
of wood you need is basically scraps for zie!) or at least tell you
where to get it!!
Ulf
John Atkinson
>
> timo wrote:
> > Porous woods = bad. Grains swell.
> >
> > Consider looking into more dense hardwoods. Read Erika's page at
> > http://www.spiritone.com/~organic .
>
> I don't know where to buy them.
Not sure what trees grow in your neck of the woods Tele, how about
maples? Do they have them in your part of Canada? It's a pretty good
finegrained hardwood, Erica uses it. I use blackbutt myself, since it's
what grows here and I can pick a stick of it up off the ground whenever
I need some.
> and I don't have the tools or anything to make harder wood into a
> cylindar.
A sharp knife, a fine file, and a whetstone or very fine sandpaper are
all the tools you need.
> > I use Jojoba oil to oil my plugs on a regular basis.
I use peanut oil, because that's what's in my kitchen (I'm keen on South
Indian cooking).
> by on a regular basis, do you mean you do it repeatedly to one piece?
Initially, yes. Soak, rub, soak, rub, over and over till the grain no
longer swells -- see Erica's site for more details.
> how often must this be done?
Afterwards, only when it dries out (if you spend lots of time in the
water, maybe as often as every few days).
John.
Rebekah
> timo wrote:
> > Porous woods = bad. Grains swell.
> >
> > Consider looking into more dense hardwoods. Read Erika's page at
> > http://www.spiritone.com/~organic .
>
> I don't know where to buy them. I use the wood from mcdermot lumber,
> and I don't have the tools or anything to make harder wood into a
> cylindar.
Just a suggestion: look at woods in the craft store where you buy your
Fimo. They may even have some pre-cut wood for crafts.
But definitely check out Erika's page. My boss just got something from
her shop (a hand-held tattoo tool) and it makes a lovely addition to our
shop.
~ Rebekah
--
"When it comes to the booty, man, you've gotta treat it right!"
Luis, Night of 1000 Scars, 10/01/98
members.aol.com/ta2intl/tattoo.htm www.askjeeves.com -- search engine
FAQs- http://www.eskimo.com/~rab http://www.achilles.net/~dextra/spako
Shannon Larratt / BME
>> I would not use a wooden plug in a piercing that is less than completely
>> healed.
I have used ebony to heal any number of piercings. IMO it is far better than
metals for many piercings.
Shannon
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Shannon Larratt b...@freeq.com
BME: Body Modification Ezine http://BME.FreeQ.com/
Unusual Real Human Skulls http://BME.FreeQ.com/skulls/
Exotic Cars and Cool Gadgets http://PriceOfHisToys.com/
Geoffrey
well.
I know there have been some wooden jewlery around that was oiled with god
knows what and caused incredible problems. They were imported from Africa.
Geoffrey
Shannon Larratt / BME wrote in message
<6vda3o$83g$1...@news2.tor.accglobal.net>...
Lee Thompson-Herbert
Geoffrey <ge...@NOT.FOR.SPAM.seabasecns.com> wrote:
>I guess porosity is the real issue. Possibly the oils used in the finish as
>well.
>
>I know there have been some wooden jewlery around that was oiled with god
>knows what and caused incredible problems. They were imported from Africa.
The actual wood can also be a problem. Some varieties of exotic hardwoods
can cause skin irritation, contact dermatitis, or all-out allergic
reactions. I ordered a custom wooden flute last year, and the maker's
literature warned that exotic hardwoods can cause allergic reactions, and
that he'd happily replace a problem instrument with one made in a different
wood. Some flute makers even go so far as offering the option of having
a sterling silver or gold plated sleeve added to the headpiece so your
lips don't touch the wood.
Probably safe woods would include maple, cherry, rosewood, and grenadilla
(african blackwood). Maple and cherry dowelling is pretty easy to come
by at hobby shops.
--
Lee M.Thompson-Herbert KD6WUR l...@crl.com
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995). Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"There are some people who will argue whether the flames are blue
or green, when the real question is that their arse is on fire."
Telefina
and he's a carpenter; I don't know what types of wood he uses, but i
imagine he'd have some maple or (is oak ok? we have lots of oak trees
'round here....birch too..). I don't know exactly how to ask, as they
seem pretty conservative (I mean to get to the nearest city, winnipeg,
they have to boat or ski-doo or ski accross a lake, then drive forever
and ever (well, ok, 2 hours..)
oh sorry to get off-topic... what other common carpenter woods would
be appropriate?
Ulf Scherov wrote:
> Check the yellow pages, or better yet, swing by a fine carpenter; he/she
> should be able to either make the plugs for you, sell you some small
> pieces of wood (or if you're lucky even GIVE them to you... the amount
> of wood you need is basically scraps for zie!) or at least tell you
> where to get it!!
ok, now i have to ask the stupid questions: what would i look under?
carpenters? fine woods? any suggestions? thankx!!!
L Kiesling
Telefina wrote in message <361D96B6...@ilos.net>...
>
>oh sorry to get off-topic... what other common carpenter woods would
>be appropriate?
>
>Ulf Scherov wrote:
>> Check the yellow pages, or better yet, swing by a fine carpenter; he/she
>> should be able to either make the plugs for you, sell you some small
>> pieces of wood (or if you're lucky even GIVE them to you... the amount
>> of wood you need is basically scraps for zie!) or at least tell you
>> where to get it!!
>
>ok, now i have to ask the stupid questions: what would i look under?
>carpenters? fine woods? any suggestions? thankx!!!
>
another type of fine wood user, they'd be unlikely to have woods suitable
for piercings.
As to sources for "proper" woods...
I have a good source for ~many~ hardwood types, tropical and other.
Eisenbrand Inc. Exotic Hardwoods
4100 Spencer St.
Torrence, CA 90503
Shop 310.542.3576 Orders 1.800.258.2587 FAX 310.542.2857
They have an excellent brochure/pricelist. They sell "samples", blocks
measuring 2"x2"x12". An outdated example of prices (my list is '95-'96) is:
Ebony, Brazilian/Air Dried/ 1",1.25" thick/ $37.00 per board ft/ No Sample
Square available
Ebony, Gabon/ Air Dried/ 1",2", and up/ $48.00 per board ft/ Sample Sq
$13.00
Ebony, Macassar/ Air Dried/ 1",2", and up/ $33.00 per board ft/ Sample Sq
$15.00
Paduk/ Kiln Dried/ 1",2" thick/ $8.75 per board foot/ Sample Sq $5.00
Paduk, figured/ Kiln Dried/ 1",2" thick/ $10.50 per board foot/ No sample sq
available
They have eight different rosewoods, five maples, and many other domestic
and exotic woods that would be suitable.
In my limited experience with them, the wood received (Macassar Ebony) was
~beauty~.
Lou K.
"Necessity is the plea for every infringement of Human Liberty. It is the
argument of tyrants. It is the creed of slaves."
November 18, 1783, William Pitt
Erica and/or Markus
> I made some 1ga plugs out of wood dowling and they're currently very
It sounds like you may have used too porous of a wood to begin with.
Sealing a wood means you're wearing the sealant next to your skin, not
the wood.
Oils (including Tea tree oil) are not sealants. Tea tree oil can be
used to clean/disinfect both the wood and your skin but can be very
harsh and drying (to both skin and wood).
I would not recommend using wood in unhealed piercings, but if you are
experienced in healing piercings in general, and have worn wood in
healed piercings before, the chances of you being able to heal with wood
are better-it's certainly not impossible.
Jojoba oil, mineral oil, beeswax should all be safe to put on your
plugs. Food grade oils can also be used (I use olive oil, you can also
you peanut) but may break down with heat and time. Vitamin E may also
be used.
Oiling aids insertion and when massaged into scar tissue for long
periods may also help the body to reabsorb the scarring.
Overuse of oil may cause the wood to darken over time.
Oil may also inhibit the ability of oxygen to come to the aid of healing
tissue, and is best applied when the hole is totally healed.
> Your goal should be to keep the jewlery from becoming rancid with body
> stuff.
It's the bacteria that is the problem. Keeping hole and jewelry clean
should prevent most of the problem.
> I guess porosity is the real issue. Possibly the oils used in the finish as
> well.
> I know there have been some wooden jewlery around that was oiled with
> god knows what and caused incredible problems. They were imported
> from Africa.
> The actual wood can also be a problem. Some varieties of exotic hardwoods can cause skin irritation, contact dermatitis, or all-out allergic reactions.
> Probably safe woods would include maple, cherry, rosewood, and grenadilla (african blackwood). Maple and cherry dowelling is pretty easy to come by at hobby shops.
> imagine he'd have some maple or (is oak ok? we have lots of oak trees
'round here....birch too..).
Oh no! Rosewoods are the ones MOST LIKELY to cause allergic reactions!
African blackwood is a rosewood! Watch out for the Dalbergia genera
(rosewoods).
Maple (there are many different types and many have a lot of grain that
will rise up), oak, birch, cherry and the fruit bearing domestic trees
are generally pretty bland and safe when in contact with the skin.
Exotic woods just means imported, and both exotic and domestic woods can
be safe, or can cause allergic reactions.
> I have a good source for ~many~ hardwood types, tropical and other.
> Eisenbrand Inc. Exotic Hardwoods
> They have eight different rosewoods, five maples, and many other domestic and exotic woods that would be suitable.
Again, rosewoods are completely not suitable. I believe they also sell
some hardwoods that are at risk of endangerment.
> Porous woods = bad.
Righto. Closed grained hardwoods=good. Density is not as important.
> Grains swell.
Properly finished hardwood can be sanded and wetted multiple times to
reduce the amount of grain that is going to rise up when in contact with
moisture. Porousity and the swelling of the grain are unrelated.
Erica Skadsen
http://www.spritone.com/~organic
L Kiesling
Erica and/or Markus wrote in message
<3629A2...@SpamTRAPspiritone.com>...
>
>Oh no! Rosewoods are the ones MOST LIKELY to cause allergic reactions!
>African blackwood is a rosewood! Watch out for the Dalbergia genera
>(rosewoods).
<SNIPP>
>Exotic woods just means imported, and both exotic and domestic woods can
>be safe, or can cause allergic reactions.
>
>> I have a good source for ~many~ hardwood types, tropical and other.
>> Eisenbrand Inc. Exotic Hardwoods
>> They have eight different rosewoods, five maples, and many other domestic
and exotic woods that would be suitable.
>
>Again, rosewoods are completely not suitable.
I believe that the rosewoods (dalbergia) ~can~ cause problems in people who
are sensitive. As you said above, they are the ones considered MOST LIKELY
to cause problems. There is no guarantee that they will/will not cause
problems out of the gate. There's no guarantee that you will not develop a
sensitivity as time goes by. This can be said for MANY substances, both
natural and man-made. Thus far, I've personally had no problems.
"Completely not suitable"??? Completely not true.
Having said all that, I must say that I'm glad you've pointed this out. It
was certainly a mistake on my part not to include this info.
> I believe they also sell
>some hardwoods that are at risk of endangerment.
Yes, they do. In fact, my personal favorite, ebony, falls into that
catagory. Very unfortunate.
I'm a republican though, so this really doesn't present much of a problem.
>:^)
L Kiesling
Rebekah
I'm going to look into them; thanks for the referral.
(If I do contact them, can you send me via private EMail your Customer # in case
they do Finder's Fees?)
~ Rebekah
L Kiesling wrote:
> As to sources for "proper" woods...
>
> I have a good source for ~many~ hardwood types, tropical and other.
>
> Eisenbrand Inc. Exotic Hardwoods
> 4100 Spencer St.
> Torrence, CA 90503
>
> Shop 310.542.3576 Orders 1.800.258.2587 FAX 310.542.2857
>
> They have an excellent brochure/pricelist. They sell "samples", blocks
> measuring 2"x2"x12". An outdated example of prices (my list is '95-'96) is:
>
> Ebony, Brazilian/Air Dried/ 1",1.25" thick/ $37.00 per board ft/ No Sample
> Square available
> Ebony, Gabon/ Air Dried/ 1",2", and up/ $48.00 per board ft/ Sample Sq
> $13.00
> Ebony, Macassar/ Air Dried/ 1",2", and up/ $33.00 per board ft/ Sample Sq
> $15.00
> Paduk/ Kiln Dried/ 1",2" thick/ $8.75 per board foot/ Sample Sq $5.00
> Paduk, figured/ Kiln Dried/ 1",2" thick/ $10.50 per board foot/ No sample sq
> available
>
> They have eight different rosewoods, five maples, and many other domestic
> and exotic woods that would be suitable.
>
> In my limited experience with them, the wood received (Macassar Ebony) was
> ~beauty~.
>
> Lou K.
>
> "Necessity is the plea for every infringement of Human Liberty. It is the
> argument of tyrants. It is the creed of slaves."
> November 18, 1783, William Pitt
--
Oh, how you taunt and tease ... do you do it to torture or to please?
~ Pat Moss, 10/14/98
Lou Kiesling
Rebekah wrote in message <362AA67A...@ziplink.net>...
>http://www.eisenbran.com/
>I'm going to look into them; thanks for the referral.
>(If I do contact them, can you send me via private EMail your Customer # in
case
>they do Finder's Fees?)
>~ Rebekah
I have no Idea what that number would be, as it's been over two years since
I've had any dealings with them.
I might place an order soon, I hear that ebony callin' my name. I'm going
to order a bit of paduk too. It's a really hard, really red wood.
Good luck! (not that you'll need it)
Lou K.
