Airbrush/pastels for weathering..
Stefan Paul
and i'm wondering about the cheapest..but with good result technique..
I know airbrush is one of them.but the stuff you need is not that cheap..
i ve got the brochure from Revell and tamiya..but dont yet know the price..!
and seems so difficult..
But i once read also that you can do it with pastel collors...
are there any more technique.??
wich one is the best..
and if airbrush is the one..wich one should i take..???
-stefan.
Dougo
If you are thinking about weathering your Gundam models IMO you have to
consider what type of environment the subject operates in. What type of
joints or parts will experience "wear and tear" of combat it a good question
to ponder in your head.
For example I built a HGUC Gouf recently. Since this is a land based mobile
suit the most wear and tear would most likely be on the feet. I painted
(using an airbrush) the soles of the feet black and then drybrushed silver
paint to simulate paint chipping off the foot. I used a product called
"Rust-all" that is used by model railroad builders to simulate scale rust
along selected areas of the foot. Then I used a wash of black acrylic to
deaden the silver and rust I had added.
On this same kit I used black chaulk pastels to simulate exhaust on the
Gouf's backpack. From my use of pastels it is used to accent certain
details. I couldn't conceive of using pastels all over an entire kit with my
experience so far.
I have seen figure modelers using pastels for shading characters faces and
applying makeup to female character models and monster kits.
When I build kits I try to test out one new approach or technique. For me it
tool a little while to get used to an airbrush and mixing the paint
appropiately. However, each time you use it you learn something new or fine
tune your skills.
I guess to answer your question about weathering without an airbrush would
be to use...
1. Washes
2. Drybrushing techniques
3. Pastels
The airbrush techniques are very subtle and I think a bit of a challenge on
1/114th scale kits. The famed "Max" Technique is achievable with an
airbrush, but I have yet to fully execute this technique myself (though I
am still trying).
later
Dougo
"Stefan Paul" <s.tedj...@hccnet.nl> wrote in message
news:bcffjp$94k$1...@news.hccnet.nl...
EGMcCann
better one way than another - for instance, you won't simulate chipped paint
with pastels. :)
What I'd do is plan it out ahead of time. Planning on "scuffing" some areas?
You can paint it silver ahead of time (spraycan) then paint over it and
actually "scuff" it (lightly) with sandpaper, or drybrush silver (or steel,
or other metallic colors) along the edges. Chipped paint can be done a
similar way, but "picked off" with a toothpick, added with silver artist's
pencil, lifted off with tape (leads to large areas stripped of paint.)
Exhaust (keep in mind this is coming from primarily an aircraft modeler) I
like doing with pastels. If you want fluids (rust, oil, etc.) running down,
thinned paint with a fine brush (very fine, and not much paint in typical
gundam scales) works.
I've found ground pastel chalks to be good for one other thing, too - mix
with very thin white glue (more water than glue.) Apply to edges of feet,
wheels, etc. Instant "muddy feet." <g>
Regardless, there's no miracle technique (not even the fabled "max"
technique) for finishing kits. It's all practice. One of the hardest things
with weathering isn't doing it - it's knowing when to quit. Overdone
weathering looks horrid (and is rarely appropriate.)
-Eric
http://airmodeller.tripod.com
"Stefan Paul" <s.tedj...@hccnet.nl> wrote in message
news:bcffjp$94k$1...@news.hccnet.nl...
Stefan Paul
you know..some useful website??
about painting and weathering technique..
-stefan
"EGMcCann" <egmc...@hotmail.com> schreef in bericht
news:bcibg6$jgeta$1...@ID-160738.news.dfncis.de...
EGMcCann
> Thnx..i'll watch your site and read the article you wrote..
>
> you know..some useful website??
> about painting and weathering technique..
Search on rec.models.scale +weathering, or +washes, that sort of thing. Best
place to start. :)