thanx for the responses! :)
Wayne C. Morris
> Q: What is the best tool to use for those tiny grooves on Gundam models?
> Airbrush? Paint Brush? Other?
I assume you mean "how to I paint the panel groves?"
Some people use fine-tip paint markers or drawing pens, such as "Gundam
Marker", "Pigma Micron", "Staedtler Drawing & Writing Pigment Liner", or
"Pilot DR Pigment Ink Drawing Pen". The first can be found at some
hobby shops (usually the same ones that sell Gundam models). The others
can be found at stationery supply stores or artist supply stores, and
are sometimes called "disposable technical pens".
Other people use a "wash" to fill the grooves. (See below.)
For a more subtle effect, use brown, blue, or grey instead of black.
> Q: What is the best type of paint to use on plastic model kits? Acrylic or
> Enamel, or something else?
Whatever you prefer to work with. I like acrylic paints because they
don't stink as much, the fumes aren't as dangerous to my health, they
dry faster, and it's easier to clean up. Tamiya Acrylics, Gunze-Sangyo
Aqueous Color, Polly Scale, and the new Model Master "Acryl" paints are
all pretty good. Windshield fluid makes a good & cheap thinner for
these acrylics.
> Q: I once (long ago) had a friend that told me something about washing and
> drybrushing (but I forgot what these mean). Could anyone describe the
> steps/procedures for these and what they're used for?
> Washing:
Used to add shadows, fill crevices & grooves with a darker color, etc.
Basically, you thin the paint a lot, until it's more like dirty thinner
than paint. Use a brush to put it in the area you want, and it'll flow
into the lowest areas. Wipe away any excess with a clean rag or tissue.
Make sure you let the paint dry at least a few days before applying a
wash, so the wash will be less likely to remove the paint. Even though
the paint may feel dry, it generally takes a few days to harden
properly.
> Drybrush:
Used to paint raised surfaces, usually to add highlights or to paint
raised lettering or raised panel lines.
Dip the brush in the paint. Wipe off most of the paint on a clean rag
or piece of paper, so the brush is almost dry. Now gently wipe the
brush across the model. Some paint will stick to the model, but only on
the raised areas touched by the brush; it won't spread or flow into the
lower areas. Repeat until you get it the way you want it.
> Q: Do you prefer to paint after the whole model is put together, part-way
> done, or before you remove the pieces from the tree?
A combination of all three. Some parts are hard to reach after the
model is glued together, so it's best to paint them while they're still
easy to get at with a brush. Some parts are so small that it's easiest
to paint them while they're still on the sprue. And you usually don't
want seams to be visible when you're done, so they need to be filled
with putty, filed, sanded, etc., and you _have_ to paint over the seam
_after_ you've done all that work.
> Q: When models come in injection colors, do you paint over the colors
> anyway?
Yes, because (1) paint looks more realistic than plastic, and (2) if you
use putty, the putty needs to be painted.
> Q: How can I get that "antique" look that they show on the box? Any tips,
> techniques, or tools that help?
It's called "weathering". There's a wide variety of techniques to
achieve this, including washes, drybrushing, airbrushed shading, pastel
chalks, etc. Too much to explain in a brief message. I suggest you try
to find a good book at a hobby shop that specializes in models, or start
reading Fine Scale Modeler magazine.
> Q: It seems that a lot of people are talking about airbrushes. Do you use
> them in conjunction with regular brushes, or just by themselves?
Yes. I use an airbrush for most of the painting, and hand brushes for
some details, drybrushing, etc.
> Q: If you use brushes, do you use those black nylon bristle brushes, or some
> kind of ultra-fine tip artist brush (for details and/or larger areas)?
> Which is best for each part?
Those black nylon bristle brushes are cheap junk. Get artist brushes
from a good craft store, artist supply store, or even the better brushes
sold at some model shops. A really fine-point brushes for tiny details,
something a little larger for general work, and maybe a 1/2-inch wide
chisel-tip brush for painting large areas. Fill in with other sizes if
you think they'll help.
Make sure you clean your brushes immediately after using them,
especially if you use acrylics, and carefully reshape the tip to the
proper point so it'll dry that way.