Getting warped paintbrush tips
silent_kenshi
paintbrush into the thinner it gets warped. All my fine tipped
expensive brushes are damaged because of this. What's the solution if
you use enamel and acrylic paints? And I suppose there's no way to fix
this warp right?
cat
miaoued:
You're letting them sit in the thinner, right? Well, that will bend
them for certain. You need to do one of 2 things. either clean the
brushes and put them away flat or make some sort of thing which allows
you to suspend the brushes in the thinner (rubber or silicone works
well for this task). NEVER let the brushes sit in the thinner with
their tips on the bottom of the container or they've had it. Over the
years I have ruined SO many brushes before I started suspending them
(when in frequent use) or cleaning and putting them away.
cat
EGMcCann
First thing I can think of, btw, is to use different brushes for enamels and
acrylics....
"silent_kenshi" <faye...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1625da5e.02102...@posting.google.com...
John Hwang
>faye...@hotmail.com (silent_kenshi) miaoued:
>>Is anyone getting the same problem?
Nope.
>>Everytime I dip the tip of my paintbrush into the
>>thinner it gets warped. All my fine tipped
>>expensive brushes are damaged because of this.
I can't imagine what you're doing.
>> What's the solution if you use enamel and acrylic paints?
Don't use enamels. Use acrylics, which clean up with water, self-level when
drying, and dry faster.
>>And I suppose there's no way to fix this warp right?
Periodically, dip in white glue, form to a point and let dry. Store like this.
Then dissolve the glue in water before painting.
>You're letting them sit in the thinner, right? Well, that
>will bend them for certain.
Point down? For an extended period? Who does that?
The *correct* way to set brushes is point up, in a container, or laying flat.
Never sitting with the weight of the handle and ferrule pushing down on the
brush.
>You need to do one of 2 things. either clean the
>brushes and put them away flat or make some sort of thing
>which allows you to suspend the brushes in the thinner
>(rubber or silicone works well for this task).
I've not seen this latter approach. Simply clean them after every painting
session, between colors, and they'll be fine.
>NEVER let the brushes sit in the thinner with
>their tips on the bottom of the container or they've had it.
Seconded!
>Over the years I have ruined SO many brushes before I
>started suspending them (when in frequent use) or cleaning
>and putting them away.
Just lay them flat. It's not that hard. :)
--
--- John Hwang "JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
Mark Wilson
wrote:
>cat c...@consultant.com wrote:
>>faye...@hotmail.com (silent_kenshi) miaoued:
>>>Is anyone getting the same problem?
>
>Nope.
>
>>>Everytime I dip the tip of my paintbrush into the
>>>thinner it gets warped. All my fine tipped
>>>expensive brushes are damaged because of this.
>
>I can't imagine what you're doing.
>
>>> What's the solution if you use enamel and acrylic paints?
>
>Don't use enamels. Use acrylics, which clean up with water, self-level when
>drying, and dry faster.
Huh? Acrylics drying faster is why they DON'T self-level as well as
enamels--they dry so fast the paint remains frozen in the last brush
stroke. A fast drying paint can't by definition self level. That is
why lacquers and acrylics are so crappy for hand brushing, unless you
use some sort of retarder.
Mark Wilson
Change .org to .net to reply by e-mail
"If we lose the war in the air, we lose the war, and we lose it quickly."
--Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery
http://home.earthlink.net/~mmwilson2/
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http://home.earthlink.net/~mmwilson2/RAAMFAQ/index.html
John Hwang
>johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) wrote:
>>cat c...@consultant.com wrote:
>>>faye...@hotmail.com (silent_kenshi) miaoued:
>>>> What's the solution if you use enamel and acrylic paints?
>>
>>Don't use enamels. Use acrylics, which clean up with water, self-level when
>>drying, and dry faster.
>
>Huh?
Yup.
>Acrylics drying faster is why they DON'T self-level as well as
>enamels--they dry so fast the paint remains frozen in the last brush
>stroke.
False. Only amateurs leave brush stroke marks as you describe.
>A fast drying paint can't by definition self level. That is why
>lacquers and acrylics are so crappy for hand brushing,
False. But feel free to explain to the NG why the overwhelming majority of
minis painters (and paint lines) have switched to acrylics and lacquers, when
90+% of their work is hand brushing.
IMO, if lacquer and acrylics are so crappy, I'd hate to see what happens with
enamel, because those are clearly crappier than acrylics. But hey, I've only
hand-brushed several hundred miniatures with acrylic paint, so what do I know?
>unless you use some sort of retarder.
Not strictly necessary.
IMO, it's a matter of adjusting techniques to match the paint. Thin coats of
acrylic self-level much better than enamels, and acrylics don't leave brush
stroke marks. But that's just my personal experience. If it doesn't work for
you, that's a pity, because as far as I'm concerned enamel paint was totally
obsolete as of a few years ago.
Thomas Hamann
>On 28 Oct 2002 02:22:37 GMT, johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang)
>wrote:
>
>>cat c...@consultant.com wrote:
>>>faye...@hotmail.com (silent_kenshi) miaoued:
>>>>Is anyone getting the same problem?
>>
>>Nope.
>>
>>>>Everytime I dip the tip of my paintbrush into the
>>>>thinner it gets warped. All my fine tipped
>>>>expensive brushes are damaged because of this.
>>
>>I can't imagine what you're doing.
>>
>>>> What's the solution if you use enamel and acrylic paints?
>>
>>Don't use enamels. Use acrylics, which clean up with water, self-level when
>>drying, and dry faster.
>
>Huh? Acrylics drying faster is why they DON'T self-level as well as
>enamels--they dry so fast the paint remains frozen in the last brush
>stroke. A fast drying paint can't by definition self level. That is
>why lacquers and acrylics are so crappy for hand brushing, unless you
>use some sort of retarder.
>
that STILL wasn't dry after *2* weeks of drying...
--
My website: http://evilskylark.tripod.com/
Zoidfans Web Board: http://server1.ikonboard.com/Zoidfans/
Mark Wilson
wrote:
>Mark Wilson mmwi...@earthlink.net wrote:
>>johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) wrote:
>>>cat c...@consultant.com wrote:
>>>>faye...@hotmail.com (silent_kenshi) miaoued:
>
>>>>> What's the solution if you use enamel and acrylic paints?
>>>
>>>Don't use enamels. Use acrylics, which clean up with water, self-level when
>>>drying, and dry faster.
>>
>>Huh?
>
>Yup.
>
>>Acrylics drying faster is why they DON'T self-level as well as
>>enamels--they dry so fast the paint remains frozen in the last brush
>>stroke.
>
>False. Only amateurs leave brush stroke marks as you describe.
What a charming style you have!
>>A fast drying paint can't by definition self level. That is why
>>lacquers and acrylics are so crappy for hand brushing,
>
>False. But feel free to explain to the NG why the overwhelming majority of
>minis painters (and paint lines) have switched to acrylics and lacquers, when
>90+% of their work is hand brushing.
Well, let me start by saying I really appreciate your patronizing
tone. That certainly sets the stage for a conversation at the adult
level. I find that patronizing is a much better way to make your
point than actual information. And since this individual who is
seeking advice is a complete novice, then isn't he likely to have the
"amateur" problem? But I digress...
>IMO, if lacquer and acrylics are so crappy, I'd hate to see what happens with
>enamel, because those are clearly crappier than acrylics. But hey, I've only
>hand-brushed several hundred miniatures with acrylic paint, so what do I know?
Dude, try decaf. It can be just as tasty as regular. I'm sorry that
if by implying acrylics dry fast and don't self-level I somehow
sullied your family honor. I must have clearly called you an amateur,
or implied you couldn't possibly explain your point of view to the NG
for you to get this worked up.
I really hope the sarcasm wasn't lost on anyone.
Let's see, I didn't call acrylics or lacquers crappy, and we are
talking models, not minis. But, I don't dodge questions (and I am
BORED), so:
This guy asked about models. A "minis"' painter--you are talking
gaming miniatures. Objects that IIRC are not usually more than an
inch or so tall, unless you are talking one of the larger vehicles or
creatures. Rarely would a mini have even close to the same surface
area as a SD kit, let alone an HGUC. So, in the context of "anime
models", not "gaming miniatures" the surface area you need to paint is
a lot larger than you will be able to hand paint with a lacquer or an
acrylic without having the job dry out on you, and leaving brush
strokes. It is simple physics. If the paint viscosity changes so
dramatically during the drying process, it can't self-level over a
model sized object. On a mini, different story. The scale is totally
different, and over that small a surface area the time scale,
viscosity, and surface tension are all about same order effects. You
can paint thin layers without worrying about digging up the previous
layer. A MODEL example: you can paint 1/48 scale jet AC landing gear
with Tamiya acrylic white in 2 coats and have decent coverage.
Couldn't do that with an enamel white, for sure. But I wouldn't try
hand painting anything much larger with acrylics...
But you, of offended one, try this: hand brush a HGUC sized mecha
forearm or thigh with acrylics, and put at least 2 coats on. Then
tell me there are no brush marks from the magical slef-leveling super
fast drying paint. Feel free to post a pic of you results. Heck,
I'll even host it on my web site.
BTW, I would NOT use enamels on a mini (I've only painted 50 or
so--rank amateur that I am), since they do not cover well and tend to
be to thick FOR THAT SIZED OBJECT. But hey, we are talking about
models, right?
>>unless you use some sort of retarder.
>
>Not strictly necessary.
>
>IMO, it's a matter of adjusting techniques to match the paint. Thin coats of
>acrylic self-level much better than enamels, and acrylics don't leave brush
>stroke marks. But that's just my personal experience. If it doesn't work for
>you, that's a pity, because as far as I'm concerned enamel paint was totally
>obsolete as of a few years ago.
What made you think I threw out acrylics? And what made you so
presumptuous as to assume that someone who doesn't use acrylics is
deserving of your pity? My dear John, you border on coming across as
a pompous ass! You really need to relax. I am almost positive there
are more important things in life than getting worked up over the
leveling properties of hobby paints...
All I ever said was they don't self level, and in the context of hand
painting a model with a larger surface area than a mini, what I said
to the guy asking advice on models is correct. This thread was about
models, not minis. Did I mention that already?
Acrylics airbrush magnificently, but so do enamels. Lacquers are
generally a fast drying pain in the ass whether you air or hand brush
(ever make Mr. Color Cotton Candy on a part with an airbrush?).
Enamels are significantly tougher than acrylics, but acrylics are the
least toxic to use and clean up, and dry quickly (which in part
explains their popularity). I prefer enamels and lacquers for mecha
modeling, (which oddly enough, is what this thread is about--models
not minis) since they are substantially tougher than acrylics.
Acrylics don't hold up well around mecha joints, pure and simple.
When I do totally fixed kits, such as aircraft, or a fixed pose resin
kit, there is no reason not to use acrylics.
So yes, it does matter what the application is, and I never said
anything to the contrary. And that explains why the paint lines have
acrylics, enamels and lacquers in their stable.
And yes, I am laughing as I write this. What a ridiculous pile of
crap to get worked up over! I did derive great mirth in poking fun at
your oh-so-serious, yet totally unrelated to models response though.
And for that ray of sunshine, I thank you. Please feel free to
overreact with a new unrelated tangent; I do so look forward to your
missives.
Mark Wilson
OK!! I admit it! Gloss enamels take FOREVER TO DRY!!
But think of all the leveling it did over those 2+ weeks....;)
Nick Wesson
Side note without entering the Holy War. (I love the comment about family honour
though).
I've painted, umm, over 500 figures for wargaming - all acrylics. And after
years using acrylics on models, I've switched back to enamels for larger surfaces,
like Mark discussed. I sometimes use enamels on minis too - there's no feeling like
watching your minis, assembled with pins and superglue and painted with enamels,
fall three and a half feet to concrete and take NO damage.
Nick Wesson
Mark Wilson
Oh, wait...you agreed with me.
Nevermind...;)
Nick Wesson
THAT'S IT! MY FINGER IS BURNING, BURNING WITH THE NEED FOR JUSTICE!!!!!!
SSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHIIIIINNNNNNNNNNNNNIIIIIINNNNNNNNGGGGGGGGG
PPPPPPOOOOOOOOOKKKKKKKKEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!
John Hwang
>>Mark Wilson mmwi...@earthlink.net wrote:
>>>johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) wrote:
>>>>cat c...@consultant.com wrote:
>>>>>faye...@hotmail.com (silent_kenshi) miaoued:
>>
>>>>>> What's the solution if you use enamel and acrylic paints?
>>>>
>>>>Don't use enamels. Use acrylics, which clean up with water, self-level
>>>>when drying, and dry faster.
>>>
>>>Huh?
>>
>>Yup.
>>
>>>Acrylics drying faster is why they DON'T self-level as well as
>>>enamels--they dry so fast the paint remains frozen in the last brush
>>>stroke.
>>
>>False. Only amateurs leave brush stroke marks as you describe.
>
>What a charming style you have!
No worse than yours, at least from my POV. Funny, that.
>>>A fast drying paint can't by definition self level. That is why
>>>lacquers and acrylics are so crappy for hand brushing,
>>
>>False. But feel free to explain to the NG why the overwhelming majority of
>>minis painters (and paint lines) have switched to acrylics and lacquers,
>>when 90+% of their work is hand brushing.
>
>Well, let me start by saying I really appreciate your patronizing
>tone. That certainly sets the stage for a conversation at the adult
>level. I find that patronizing is a much better way to make your
>point than actual information.
You, too.
>And since this individual who is seeking advice is a complete novice,
Is he?
>then isn't he likely to have the "amateur" problem? But I digress...
>
>>IMO, if lacquer and acrylics are so crappy, I'd hate to see what happens
>>with enamel, because those are clearly crappier than acrylics. But hey,
>>I've only hand-brushed several hundred miniatures with acrylic paint, so
>>what do I know?
>
>Dude, try decaf. It can be just as tasty as regular.
I see that you can't help yourself either...
>I'm sorry that if by implying acrylics dry fast and don't self-level
>I somehow sullied your family honor.
That's OK. I'm sorry that if, by failing to note that acrylics are thinnable,
that I've some how insulted you.
>I must have clearly called you an amateur,
>or implied you couldn't possibly explain your point of view to the NG
>for you to get this worked up.
>
>I really hope the sarcasm wasn't lost on anyone.
Given your posting style, which seems to be only marginally different from
mine, it probably was.
>Let's see, I didn't call acrylics or lacquers crappy, and we are
>talking models, not minis.
From my POV, there's absolutely *no* difference.
>But, I don't dodge questions (and I am
>BORED), so:
>
>This guy asked about models. A "minis"' painter--you are talking
>gaming miniatures. Objects that IIRC are not usually more than an
>inch or so tall,
Actually, the overwhelming majority of my collection is at *least* 1" tall, and
over half of which uses the so-called "heroic" 28mm - 30mm scale, with "heroic"
proportions. Of this lot, several dozen are at comparable in overall size to a
1/220 scale Gundam.
>unless you are talking one of the larger vehicles or
>creatures.
I am.
>Rarely would a mini have even close to the same surface
>area as a SD kit,
At least 10% of my collection, depending on the size of the SD kit.
>let alone an HGUC. So, in the context of "anime
>models", not "gaming miniatures" the surface area you need to paint is
>a lot larger than you will be able to hand paint with a lacquer or an
>acrylic without having the job dry out on you, and leaving brush
>strokes.
Wrong, again. I've brush painted a few tanks which are roughly comparable in
size to a 1/48 scale MBT or a 1/35 scale light tank. No problem with brush
marks there, either.
But I do find it very interesting how you like to make so many assumptions
without knowing anything about what you're talking.
>It is simple physics. If the paint viscosity changes so
>dramatically during the drying process, it can't self-level over a
>model sized object. On a mini, different story. The scale is totally
>different, and over that small a surface area the time scale,
>viscosity, and surface tension are all about same order effects. You
>can paint thin layers without worrying about digging up the previous
>layer.
Sure.
>A MODEL example: you can paint 1/48 scale jet AC landing gear
>with Tamiya acrylic white in 2 coats and have decent coverage.
>Couldn't do that with an enamel white, for sure. But I wouldn't try
>hand painting anything much larger with acrylics...
OK, tho that's just you.
>But you, of offended one, try this: hand brush a HGUC sized mecha
>forearm or thigh with acrylics, and put at least 2 coats on. Then
>tell me there are no brush marks from the magical slef-leveling super
>fast drying paint. Feel free to post a pic of you results. Heck,
>I'll even host it on my web site.
When I get back into GunPla, I'll be sure to do that.
>BTW, I would NOT use enamels on a mini (I've only painted 50 or
>so--rank amateur that I am), since they do not cover well and tend to
>be to thick FOR THAT SIZED OBJECT. But hey, we are talking about
>models, right?
Perhaps.
>>>unless you use some sort of retarder.
>>
>>Not strictly necessary.
>>
>>IMO, it's a matter of adjusting techniques to match the paint. Thin coats
>>of acrylic self-level much better than enamels, and acrylics don't leave
>>brush stroke marks. But that's just my personal experience. If it
>>doesn't work for you, that's a pity, because as far as I'm concerned
>>enamel paint was totally obsolete as of a few years ago.
>
>What made you think I threw out acrylics?
Your post, perhaps? I know I threw out all of my enamels.
>And what made you so
>presumptuous as to assume that someone who doesn't use acrylics is
>deserving of your pity? My dear John, you border on coming across as
>a pompous ass!
PKB.
>You really need to relax. I am almost positive there
>are more important things in life than getting worked up over the
>leveling properties of hobby paints...
And yet, you post like this...
>All I ever said was they don't self level,
And *I* said they do.
>and in the context of hand
>painting a model with a larger surface area than a mini, what I said
>to the guy asking advice on models is correct. This thread was about
>models, not minis. Did I mention that already?
Again, AFAIC, there's no difference.
>Acrylics airbrush magnificently, but so do enamels. Lacquers are
>generally a fast drying pain in the ass whether you air or hand brush
>(ever make Mr. Color Cotton Candy on a part with an airbrush?).
>Enamels are significantly tougher than acrylics, but acrylics are the
>least toxic to use and clean up, and dry quickly (which in part
>explains their popularity). I prefer enamels and lacquers for mecha
>modeling, (which oddly enough, is what this thread is about--models
>not minis) since they are substantially tougher than acrylics.
>Acrylics don't hold up well around mecha joints, pure and simple.
>When I do totally fixed kits, such as aircraft, or a fixed pose resin
>kit, there is no reason not to use acrylics.
>
>So yes, it does matter what the application is, and I never said
>anything to the contrary. And that explains why the paint lines have
>acrylics, enamels and lacquers in their stable.
>
>And yes, I am laughing as I write this. What a ridiculous pile of
>crap to get worked up over! I did derive great mirth in poking fun at
>your oh-so-serious, yet totally unrelated to models response though.
>And for that ray of sunshine, I thank you. Please feel free to
>overreact with a new unrelated tangent; I do so look forward to your
>missives.
Blah, blah, blah. I don't have time for you.
George Caswell
> A-Ko tr...@mountain.net wrote:
>> tr...@cave.com (B-Ko) wrote:
> >This guy asked about models. A "minis"' painter--you are talking
> >gaming miniatures. Objects that IIRC are not usually more than an
> >inch or so tall,
>
> Actually, the overwhelming majority of my collection is at *least* 1" tall, and
> over half of which uses the so-called "heroic" 28mm - 30mm scale, with "heroic"
> proportions. Of this lot, several dozen are at comparable in overall size to a
> 1/220 scale Gundam.
>
Size matters not! Judge the Nichimo kits by their size, do you? Giant
robots are they, not this... crude styrene!
---GEC
New projects page: http://home.attbi.com/~sieg_haro/
(M-x depeche-mode)
Itchin' for more Hasegawa goodness!
Nick Wesson
George Caswell wrote:
> Size matters not! Judge the Nichimo kits by their size, do you? Giant
> robots are they, not this... crude styrene!
>
> ---GEC
> New projects page: http://home.attbi.com/~sieg_haro/
> (M-x depeche-mode)
> Itchin' for more Hasegawa goodness!
There's nothing like the fervour of the true convert : )
Nick Wesson
(Who's wondering what the poor guy who started this thread is thinking)
cat
>>brushes and put them away flat or make some sort of thing
>>which allows you to suspend the brushes in the thinner
>>(rubber or silicone works well for this task).
>
>I've not seen this latter approach.
At one time there was a gadget made just for that job. I
haven't seen it in some time, though.
cat
cat
miaoued:
>False. But feel free to explain to the NG why the overwhelming majority of
>minis painters (and paint lines) have switched to acrylics and lacquers, when
>90+% of their work is hand brushing.
All the top competitive painters still use oils except where
other types are used for a specific effect. I have only seen a few
serious competitive figs painted with acrylic.
for my own work I try to avoid acrylics due to numerous
problems most annoying is their reaction to heat and certain lights.
cat
EGMcCann
spring-like to me, though, "pinching" the handles to hold them....
"cat" <c...@consultant.com> wrote in message
news:u9isruonucut59arb...@4ax.com...
Mark Wilson
wrote:
>On 29 Oct 2002, John Hwang wrote:
>
>> A-Ko tr...@mountain.net wrote:
>>> tr...@cave.com (B-Ko) wrote:
>
>> >This guy asked about models. A "minis"' painter--you are talking
>> >gaming miniatures. Objects that IIRC are not usually more than an
>> >inch or so tall,
>>
>> Actually, the overwhelming majority of my collection is at *least* 1" tall, and
>> over half of which uses the so-called "heroic" 28mm - 30mm scale, with "heroic"
>> proportions. Of this lot, several dozen are at comparable in overall size to a
>> 1/220 scale Gundam.
>>
> Size matters not! Judge the Nichimo kits by their size, do you? Giant
>robots are they, not this... crude styrene!
You ask the impossible...
Thomas Hamann
>Mark Wilson mmwi...@earthlink.net wrote:
>>johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) wrote:
>>>cat c...@consultant.com wrote:
>>Acrylics drying faster is why they DON'T self-level as well as
>>enamels--they dry so fast the paint remains frozen in the last brush
>>stroke.
>
>False. Only amateurs leave brush stroke marks as you describe.
>
for sure.
>>A fast drying paint can't by definition self level. That is why
>>lacquers and acrylics are so crappy for hand brushing,
>
<snip>
>IMO, if lacquer and acrylics are so crappy, I'd hate to see what happens with
>enamel, because those are clearly crappier than acrylics. But hey, I've only
>hand-brushed several hundred miniatures with acrylic paint, so what do I know?
>
The only acrylics that are crappy, IMHO, are metallic colors. They
just don't mix well.
>>unless you use some sort of retarder.
>
>Not strictly necessary.
>
>IMO, it's a matter of adjusting techniques to match the paint. Thin coats of
>acrylic self-level much better than enamels, and acrylics don't leave brush
>stroke marks. But that's just my personal experience. If it doesn't work for
>you, that's a pity, because as far as I'm concerned enamel paint was totally
>obsolete as of a few years ago.
Quick question: How do you clean your brushes? I've had problems with
paint staying under the metal part of the brush handle, drying up
there, and then when I switch to another color, it bloody liquifies
again, mixing with the other color (really annoying for light colors).
I've switched to using one brush ONLY for white paint due to this
problem, but I don't want to do it for EVERY color (otherwise I'll
need 100 different brushes...).
Thomas Hamann
Thomas Hamann
>>Let's see, I didn't call acrylics or lacquers crappy, and we are
>>talking models, not minis.
>
>From my POV, there's absolutely *no* difference.
>
figures are part of the model, IMHO, and not separate "minis".
>>But, I don't dodge questions (and I am
>>BORED), so:
>>
>>This guy asked about models. A "minis"' painter--you are talking
>>gaming miniatures. Objects that IIRC are not usually more than an
>>inch or so tall,
>
>Actually, the overwhelming majority of my collection is at *least* 1" tall, and
>over half of which uses the so-called "heroic" 28mm - 30mm scale, with "heroic"
>proportions. Of this lot, several dozen are at comparable in overall size to a
>1/220 scale Gundam.
>
Mark, have you ever painted a 1/72nd scale jet pilot? Those are also
smaller then an inch, and they're NOT "minis".
<snip>
>>let alone an HGUC. So, in the context of "anime
>>models", not "gaming miniatures" the surface area you need to paint is
>>a lot larger than you will be able to hand paint with a lacquer or an
>>acrylic without having the job dry out on you, and leaving brush
>>strokes.
>
>Wrong, again. I've brush painted a few tanks which are roughly comparable in
>size to a 1/48 scale MBT or a 1/35 scale light tank. No problem with brush
>marks there, either.
>
Just in case, I've painted several 1/24th scale car models and 1/72nd
scale model airplanes (quite a lot more surface than a HGUC) by hand,
if, if you paint correctly, it looks quite good, even with acrylics.
I mean, if I look at my Hasegawa Valkyries or the F-15 I just
finished, they look pretty good, if not better than the models I did
with oil paint. Okay, they don't look as nice as some of the models
you see in modelling magazines, but then I'm not a professional (and
those models in the magazines were usually done with an airbrush).
Just be sure to use good quality acrylics *meant* for modelling. The
stuff that you can find in shops to do walls with won't end up looking
so nice.
<snip>
>>A MODEL example: you can paint 1/48 scale jet AC landing gear
>>with Tamiya acrylic white in 2 coats and have decent coverage.
Then it must have been a pretty old bottle of Tamiya white, 'cause the
two bottles I've had untill now only covered well after a layer or
five...
<snip>
>>But you, of offended one, try this: hand brush a HGUC sized mecha
>>forearm or thigh with acrylics, and put at least 2 coats on. Then
>>tell me there are no brush marks from the magical slef-leveling super
>>fast drying paint. Feel free to post a pic of you results. Heck,
>>I'll even host it on my web site.
>
>When I get back into GunPla, I'll be sure to do that.
>
http://evilskylark.tripod.com/models/scifi/scifi.htm
Valkyries and Mospeada all done with acrylics. Happy?
Oh no, wait, the valks are not in Battroid mode...
http://evilskylark.tripod.com/models/customs/customs.htm
The custom Battroid. All acrylics again.
Note: some pics have really bad lens glare.
<snip>
>>Acrylics don't hold up well around mecha joints, pure and simple.
Clearcoat it using oil-based clearcoat.
<snip more crap>
Nick Wesson
Thomas Hamann wrote:
>
> Quick question: How do you clean your brushes? I've had problems with
> paint staying under the metal part of the brush handle, drying up
> there, and then when I switch to another color, it bloody liquifies
> again, mixing with the other color (really annoying for light colors).
This one's simple - don't dip your brush so deeply into the paint. I can't
remember the technical term for the little metal part, but you should NEVER get
paint that far up the brush.
As for cleaning, I swirl mine around in thinner (either water or varasol),
stroke it on a blue (automotive) paper towel (always in such a way that it stays
straight), sometimes I twist it in a paper towel. When I'm done a painting session
I do all that, then clean it with soap and warm water in the sink. If you leave a
little bit of soap in the brush you can shape it to a point, which "trains" it.
Nick Wesson
cat
miaoued:
Yea. There were a few approaches tried. I wonder what became
of those things?
cat
cat
Hamann) miaoued:
>Quick question: How do you clean your brushes? I've had problems with
>paint staying under the metal part of the brush handle, drying up
>there, and then when I switch to another color, it bloody liquifies
>again, mixing with the other color (really annoying for light colors).
I cursed at that problem for years before someone told me I
was dipping my brushes too far into the paint. The paint should come
no higher than half way up the brush then it won't get up under the
ferrule and dry there.
cat
John Hwang
> johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) bellowed out:
>>Mark Wilson mmwi...@earthlink.net wrote:
>>>johnhw...@cs.com.no.com (John Hwang) wrote:
>>>>cat c...@consultant.com wrote:
><snip>
>>>Acrylics drying faster is why they DON'T self-level as well as
>>>enamels--they dry so fast the paint remains frozen in the last brush
>>>stroke.
>>
>>False. Only amateurs leave brush stroke marks as you describe.
>
>Also be sure NOT to use stiff brushes. Those will leave stroke marks
>for sure.
Better brushes help here, along with always keeping your brush wet and your
paint thin.
>>>A fast drying paint can't by definition self level. That is why
>>>lacquers and acrylics are so crappy for hand brushing,
>>
><snip>
>>IMO, if lacquer and acrylics are so crappy, I'd hate to see what happens
>>with enamel, because those are clearly crappier than acrylics. But
>>hey, I've only hand-brushed several hundred miniatures with acrylic
>>paint, so what do I know?
>
>The only acrylics that are crappy, IMHO, are metallic colors.
Acrylic metallics are very weak for giving a "true" 1:1 metallic look. They're
OK for giving a "scale" metallic "flavor".
>They just don't mix well.
Among other things.
Fortunately, the scale modeling crowd has gone to great lengths to attempt to
remedy this with their metalizers, foils, and other alternative products. From
what I read in RMS, they're still not quite done, which is why natural metal
finishes are still the most difficult things to pull off.
>>>unless you use some sort of retarder.
>>
>>Not strictly necessary.
>>
>>IMO, it's a matter of adjusting techniques to match the paint. Thin coats
>>of acrylic self-level much better than enamels, and acrylics don't leave
>>brush stroke marks. But that's just my personal experience. If it
>>doesn't work for you, that's a pity, because as far as I'm concerned
>>enamel paint was totally obsolete as of a few years ago.
>
>Quick question: How do you clean your brushes?
I've gone to nearly continuous cleaning. While painting, I clean my brushes in
water every few minutes. This has the added bonus of keeping the point nice
and sharp, the brush wet with thinner, and promoting smooth paint flow. I also
pre-clean before painting to remove any dust and form a nice point. And I
clean any time I'm going to set a brush down for a while, specifically to
prevent:
>I've had problems with paint staying under the metal part of the brush
>handle, drying up there, and then when I switch to another color,
>it bloody liquifies again, mixing with the other color (really annoying
>for light colors).
While acrylics usually clean up just fine with water, I've found that I still
need to clean with real solvent thinner on a periodic basis specifically to
remove the paint which wicks up toward the ferrule. I'll go something like 3-6
rounds of dipping and letting the solvent work and cleaning, until I'm
satisfied that the brush is "clean". I'm sure there's a wee bit of paint up in
the ferrule, but I can live with that, having removed almost all of the paint
which is likely to contaminate as you mention.
The biggest advantage of acrylic is that 90%+ of the cleaning can be done with
water, detergent, and light solvents. You don't spend a lot of time dealing
with the noxious solvents with the long MSDS's. But occasionally, you still
need to clean them like you clean enamel or lacquer brushes.
>I've switched to using one brush ONLY for white paint due to this
>problem, but I don't want to do it for EVERY color (otherwise I'll
>need 100 different brushes...).
I paint "scale" style, so I only paint pure white as a highlight, and this
generally hasn't been a problem for me. With a bit more attention, brushes can
last a long time and don't need to be dedicated to individual pots of paint.
In your case, I'd recommend a cleaning session with serious solvents to try and
get the stuff out of the ferrules. If they won't wipe clean, you may need to
relegate some of the brushes to painting blacks and browns. :(
silent_kenshi
types of acrylic paints. Citadel can be thinned with water and works
like a charm when comes to self levelling. Tamiya is decent but not as
good as citadel paints when it comes to handbrushing. I've tried
thinning with water and tamiya acrylic thinner and I got better
resulsts with thinner. But that's the problem with thinners, they kill
my brushes.
And yes acrylics like Tamiya have odd qualities when it comes to
heating. Once I've masked a model with resinite, boy did I get
disastrous results. The surface got all warped and wrinkles from the
resinite. That killed 3 days worth of work and I had to go back and
respray everything. I've used the same masking technique on Mr.Color
paints, and had no problems.
cat <c...@consultant.com> wrote in message news:<0fisru0kmv3j1b0qn...@4ax.com>...
Giuliano Moschini
Sounds interesting..
-Giuliano
George Caswell
> > And yes acrylics like Tamiya have odd qualities when it comes to
> > heating. Once I've masked a model with resinite, boy did I get
> > disastrous results. The surface got all warped and wrinkles from the
> > resinite. That killed 3 days worth of work and I had to go back and
> > respray everything. I've used the same masking technique on Mr.Color
> > paints, and had no problems.
> What is Resinite?
>
> Sounds interesting..
>
www.resinite.com
It's something you apply to your model to give your paintjob a warped,
wrinkled look. :)
---GEC
New projects page: http://home.attbi.com/~sieg_haro/
(M-x depeche-mode)
Actually, it's the one weakness of Superman figure kits...
Giuliano Moschini
> www.resinite.com
... does not appear to be resolving.
Got any other links?
> It's something you apply to your model to give your paintjob a warped,
> wrinkled look. :)
Bake at 450 for 15 minutes will do the same. ;-)
-Giuliano
George Caswell
> George Caswell wrote:
> > www.resinite.com
>
> ... does not appear to be resolving.
>
> Got any other links?
>
Sorry, I was joking around. :)
> > It's something you apply to your model to give your paintjob a warped,
> > wrinkled look. :)
>
> Bake at 450 for 15 minutes will do the same. ;-)
>
Yeah, or if you let me paint your model... :)
---GEC
New projects page: http://home.attbi.com/~sieg_haro/
(M-x depeche-mode)
Oh my my, I'm really not feelin' it, Oh my my, somethin's really wrong...
Giuliano Moschini
> On 29 Oct 2002, Giuliano Moschini wrote:
>
>> George Caswell wrote:
>>> www.resinite.com
>>
>> ... does not appear to be resolving.
>>
>> Got any other links?
>>
> Sorry, I was joking around. :)
Oooh, you smarmy.. .. you.
And I fell for it, too!
>>> It's something you apply to your model to give your paintjob a warped,
>>> wrinkled look. :)
>>
>> Bake at 450 for 15 minutes will do the same. ;-)
>>
> Yeah, or if you let me paint your model... :)
What, there was a specific kit of mine that you wanted to ruin^H^H^H^H paint? ;-)
-Giuliano
Heavyarms
"John Hwang" <johnhw...@cs.com.no.com> wrote in message
news:20021027212237...@mb-fp.news.cs.com...
>
> Nope.
>
> >>Everytime I dip the tip of my paintbrush into the
> >>thinner it gets warped. All my fine tipped
> >>expensive brushes are damaged because of this.
>
> I can't imagine what you're doing.
>
>
> Don't use enamels. Use acrylics, which clean up with water, self-level
when
> drying, and dry faster.
<snip>
Hey, I don't think that this is a good argument to make. From my
experience, acrylics are all different. Acrylics are not necessarily better
than Enamels, either. I mainly use Model Master Acryls for painting large
areas because they go on thin and don't get thick on the brush, thus
reducing the chance you will have brush strokes. Tamiya Aqueous, on the
other hand, dries on your brush faster than a gloss enamel. I painted a
WWII era cruiser with Tamiya Aqueous, it was a pain. You don't need to lock
yourself into a acrylic or enamel situation. I like acrylics for painting
large areas (like the leg or arm of a kit.) However, I prefer enamels for
paiting some details, like Gundam chins, chest vents, or v-fins because
their thicker consistency makes one coat applications a snap.
Heavyarms
"Mark Wilson" <mmwi...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:jmapruoi8lat89ugp...@4ax.com...
>
> >cat c...@consultant.com wrote:
> >>faye...@hotmail.com (silent_kenshi) miaoued:
> >>>Is anyone getting the same problem?
> >
> >Nope.
> >
> >>>Everytime I dip the tip of my paintbrush into the
> >>>thinner it gets warped. All my fine tipped
> >>>expensive brushes are damaged because of this.
> >
> >I can't imagine what you're doing.
> >
> >>> What's the solution if you use enamel and acrylic paints?
> >
> >Don't use enamels. Use acrylics, which clean up with water, self-level
when
> >drying, and dry faster.
>
> enamels--they dry so fast the paint remains frozen in the last brush
> why lacquers and acrylics are so crappy for hand brushing, unless you
> use some sort of retarder.
>
easier to paint large areas with than Enamels. But you can't beat enamel
for painting small details.
EGMcCann
"Thomas Hamann" <hama...@yahoo.compost> wrote in message
news:3dbe8bbb...@news.wxs.nl...
> >>A MODEL example: you can paint 1/48 scale jet AC landing gear
> >>with Tamiya acrylic white in 2 coats and have decent coverage.
>
> Then it must have been a pretty old bottle of Tamiya white, 'cause the
> two bottles I've had untill now only covered well after a layer or
> five...
>
Flat or gloss? White (esp. brushed) is a royal PITA if it's gloss... start
out with a nice flat, they cover better.
-Eric
Mark Wilson
wrote:
That was what I was doing, 2 layers of flat--AC landing gear in scale
aren't really glossy.
Thomas Hamann
Gloss. Althouugh it gets better as the bottle gets emptier...
Thomas Hamann
>On Mon, 28 Oct 2002 20:06:39 GMT, hama...@yahoo.compost (Thomas
>Hamann) wrote:
<snip>
>>>>>> What's the solution if you use enamel and acrylic paints?
>>>>
>>>>Don't use enamels. Use acrylics, which clean up with water, self-level when
>>>>drying, and dry faster.
>>>
>>>Huh? Acrylics drying faster is why they DON'T self-level as well as
>>>enamels--they dry so fast the paint remains frozen in the last brush
>>>stroke. A fast drying paint can't by definition self level. That is
>>>why lacquers and acrylics are so crappy for hand brushing, unless you
>>>use some sort of retarder.
>>>
>>Unless you are painting gloss colors. Worst one I had was some white
>>that STILL wasn't dry after *2* weeks of drying...
>
>
>OK!! I admit it! Gloss enamels take FOREVER TO DRY!!
>
>But think of all the leveling it did over those 2+ weeks....;)
>
Heh. I was talking about acrylics... ;)