Couple of resin kit questions
Ian A Kelley
looking into trying my hand at a resin figure model. I have the Hobby
Japan Perfect Modeling Manual, which I've been browsing recently, and it
has a lot of great techniques, but there are a couple of things I
couldn't find anything on that perhaps someone more experienced could
shed some light on.
1) Putty. In all of the examples they have listed in the Manual, they use
polyester putty to take care of seam lines/fill holes/etc. They say in
their list of parts that epoxy putty "can be used like polyester putty"
but I'm wary of that phrasing--makes it sound like it would be a less
desirable alternative. I actually don't have any polyester putty and
have never used it--would my epoxy putty be sufficient, or does
polyester putty have some redeeming quality that makes it better?
2) Painting. Are there any issues regarding resin kit painting that I
should be aware of? I'm fairly comfortable in painting my plastic
kits--usually I paint parts before final assembly, but I get the sense
that you finish all assembly of resin figure kits before painting.
Anybody have any other tips or tricks? I'm used to just painting mecha,
(both airbrush and normal brush) any fundamental differences in painting
people, either in technique or type of paint?
Any input would be appreciated.
--
Ian Kelley "Try not to become a man of success but
ike...@mail.sas.upenn.edu rather to become a man of value."
http://www.sas.upenn.edu/~ikelley/ --Albert Einstein
Wesley Lao
> 1) Putty. In all of the examples they have listed in the Manual, they use
> polyester putty to take care of seam lines/fill holes/etc. They say in
> their list of parts that epoxy putty "can be used like polyester putty"
> but I'm wary of that phrasing--makes it sound like it would be a less
> desirable alternative. I actually don't have any polyester putty and
> have never used it--would my epoxy putty be sufficient, or does
> polyester putty have some redeeming quality that makes it better?
You could use both polyester, epoxy, or even lacquer putty to take care
of seam lines/fill holes/etc.
Lacquer putty is most common but it strink after it's dry so don't be
greedy.
Epoxy putty usually use to modify model kits. It takes very long time to
dry. 6-24hrs depends on the amount and weather so it's less use to fill
holes.
Polyester putty is kinda in between Lacquer and Epoxy. Faster drying
time than Epoxy and won't strink as much as Lacquer putty.
But in my opinion, the best putty is Johnson baby powder put super glue.
Fastest drying time and no strink. :)
> 2) Painting. Are there any issues regarding resin kit painting that I
> should be aware of? I'm fairly comfortable in painting my plastic
> kits--usually I paint parts before final assembly, but I get the sense
> that you finish all assembly of resin figure kits before painting.
> Anybody have any other tips or tricks? I'm used to just painting mecha,
> (both airbrush and normal brush) any fundamental differences in painting
> people, either in technique or type of paint?
For all resin kits, first you have to clean the kit before you build it.
Get rid of the molding grease on the surface by using dash clearer. You
could also use Acetone to clean it but make sure you don't soak your
parts for too long. ( 1 minute max). The prefer way to do it is use a
tooth brush and brush your part with Acetone. It will definitely clean
your kits.
Painting for resin kits is very similar to IP kits but it's harder for
the paint to stay on the resin so you must prime your kit before
painting it. A special primer call Mr. Resin is the ideal primer for
resin kits. They come with both spray and bottle. I prefer bottle and
then you thin it with Mr.Color Thinner 1:1 and air brush prime your kit.
That will create a strong bound for your paint. I also like to use
Mr.Color paint because it's more stronger than Hobby Color water base
and Tamiya Color. Also the paint is more shiny than the other.
For resin kits, you rarely built the whole kit and then paint it. What
people do is they test fit the kits which means they put metal pins at
the joins and build the kit for test fit without painting it. Then they
will putty and fix the gap between the joins and took the kit apart and
paint each part seperately. Then they do the final assemble.
Some resin kit is a one piece kit, so you just paint the kit but people
rarely build the kit completely and then paint it.
Good luck.
James C. Nevermann
> But in my opinion, the best putty is Johnson baby powder put super glue.
> Fastest drying time and no shrink.
Huh? Describe, please.
--
Jim Nevermann
[usual disclaimers]
David Graf
Basically, you mix the baby powder with some super glue, and use that as a
filler. Squirt some accelerator on, and you can be sanding it in under a
minute. Be sure to sand it relatively soon after it sets, because the super
glue will get harder the longer it cures (it reaches full cure in less than
24 hours, I think). Some people use microballoons or baking soda instead of
baby powder. You can either mix the glue and powder, and then apply, or
fill the gap with a little powder, add a little glue, a little more powder,
more glue, etc. to fill big gaps.
Dave
James C. Nevermann <jcn...@qtip.ca.boeing.com> wrote in message
news:38F5059E...@qtip.ca.boeing.com...
Chuck Stewart
<38F5059E...@qtip.ca.boeing.com>:
>Wesley Lao wrote:
>
>> But in my opinion, the best putty is Johnson baby powder put
>> super glue. Fastest drying time and no shrink.
>
>Huh? Describe, please.
Hmmm....
Hmmm solid talcum is easily mistaken for rock...
Superglued rock flake putty?...
No shrink no stink no strink...
--
Chuck Stewart
"Anime-style catgirls: Threat? Menace? Or just studying algebra?"
Ian A Kelley
: Painting for resin kits is very similar to IP kits but it's harder for
: the paint to stay on the resin so you must prime your kit before
: painting it. A special primer call Mr. Resin is the ideal primer for
: resin kits. They come with both spray and bottle. I prefer bottle and
: then you thin it with Mr.Color Thinner 1:1 and air brush prime your kit.
: That will create a strong bound for your paint. I also like to use
: Mr.Color paint because it's more stronger than Hobby Color water base
: and Tamiya Color. Also the paint is more shiny than the other.
Right, I had figured I woul dneed to use a primer. I actually have a
bottle of Mr.Resin Primer already.
About the Mr.Color paints...I have a bunch of those already, but I wasn't
planning to use it because I want the kit to NOT be shiny. Shiny is fine
when doing those big robot kits, but when I've seen the resin kits like
that, they just look weird. (Very few people have glossy skin and
clothes) Any suggestions for alternatives?
: For resin kits, you rarely built the whole kit and then paint it. What
: people do is they test fit the kits which means they put metal pins at
: the joins and build the kit for test fit without painting it. Then they
: will putty and fix the gap between the joins and took the kit apart and
: paint each part seperately. Then they do the final assemble.
Hmm...this would make sense when painting, say, the hair, then attaching
it to the head, but for lots of resin kits, it seems that you need to
putty the joints to get rid of the seam lines between pieces. This would
seem counteractive to painting first...say, for example, you were
sticking a leg on a figure...you would have to putty the seam line AFTER
painting, which is counterproductive. What do you do in situations like
that? Paint the two pieces except for the ends, attach + putty, then
paint the rest? Then you'd have to cross your fingers and hope that the
paint blended well enough....
Ah well, I'll have to just give it a try and see for myself. :)
Wesley Lao
Put some Johnson baby powder on a plate. Then add some super glue on top
of it. At the same time, use a toothpik to stir it. The mixture will
turn into something like putty and then you could apply it on your kit.
It dry very fast and it doesn't shrink like the Lacquer putty.
Wesley Lao
> planning to use it because I want the kit to NOT be shiny. Shiny is fine
> when doing those big robot kits, but when I've seen the resin kits like
> that, they just look weird. (Very few people have glossy skin and
> clothes) Any suggestions for alternatives?
Mr.Color has lots of flat color as well. If your color turns out doesn't
have a flat color, you could always put some flat base #30 in the
mixture or just spray a flat coat finish at the end.
Another reason I like Mr.Color is because it build a stronger bound than
the other color and it has more color variation than the others and the
colors looks better.
I don't like water base color because their color is very dull and it's
stick and attract dust. I only use them for weathering.
> Hmm...this would make sense when painting, say, the hair, then attaching
> it to the head, but for lots of resin kits, it seems that you need to
> putty the joints to get rid of the seam lines between pieces. This would
> seem counteractive to painting first...say, for example, you were
> sticking a leg on a figure...you would have to putty the seam line AFTER
> painting, which is counterproductive. What do you do in situations like
> that? Paint the two pieces except for the ends, attach + putty, then
> paint the rest? Then you'd have to cross your fingers and hope that the
> paint blended well enough....
In situation like that, you could do the following:
1) you glue the leg to the body. then use putty to fill the gap. Sand
and prime the kit. Then use masking tape to cover the body and paint the
leg first (assume the color of the body is darker then the leg skin
tone). Then cover the leg with masking tape and paint the body.
the alternative is
2) put some vaseline on the body where it's attach to the leg. Then put
some polyster putty or Epoxy putty on the end of the leg which gonna
attach to the body(no vaseline). attach the leg to the body. I usually
use a metal rod to secure the position. wipe out the exccessive putty
and let it dry. After it's fully dry, sand it for a complete fit. Then
you could detatch the leg from the body(that's what the vaseline for)
and paint them seperately.
> Ah well, I'll have to just give it a try and see for myself. :)
Good luck. Hope your kit is not expensive =)