Recommendation of Brand Name Equipment for Beginner Aquarium
The Flynnman
Good Day,
I am a beginner and am about to start aquiring the equipment to set up
my first aquarium and I am looking for some reccomendations for
equipment that is mid range in price and reliable, I have read all of
the FAQ's on the group, but still would like some recommendations from
the more experienced fish keepers out there. Anybody like to give a
newbie some assistance? Thanks in advance.
Kimmo Ertolahti
The best thing to do is to buy a 'starter kit' usually in all the pet
shops. They have everything needed to get an aquarium up and running, but
the downside is that there is no 'overkill'. Your heater and filter
system will be the bare minimum usually. What I did was exchange some of
the items for ones larger in my 38 gallon 'starter kit'.
The pet shop also gave me 50% off on fish for the first 3 months and
threw in some 'fish bucks'. It cost me nothing to buy my starter goldfish
and then my angels (6).
I built my own stand (couldn't see forking out a hundred bucks for a few
pieces of 2x2) out of 3/4 inch plywood and some chair rail. Cost me 25
bucks and it looks like a piece of furniture.
What most people don't think of is installing a GFI plug into the socket
used for the aquarium, although I have never heard of anyone getting
electricuted I would probably be the first one... another 10 bucks...
All in all my 38 gallon setup was just over 200 bucks, the tank alone had
a price tag on it of $75 (canadian). It is an Oceanic tank 3'x1'x22"
I have built a lot of tanks up to the 15 gallon range but my trust stops
there. They were all built from residential glass I picked up from
glass shops. And they were free, older windows. Just the cost of silicone
was all I had to fork out. Created a nice 8 sided 15 gallon angel tank
but that is neither here nor there...
As for brand names Fluval or Magnum for filters if you want a see through
tank or Aquaclear if you want a against the wall tank. For heaters I only
go with Hagen and for a cheap but good gravel source try sand blasting
sand. African cichlids love it. and a 5 gallon bucket only cost 10 bucks
here in canada.
Try a local buy and sell first and you may even be able to pick up a
steal of a deal. In Prince George, BC, Canada here there is a 120 gal in
the Buy and Sell for 300 bucks with a stand and fish.
Good Luck and Godspeed...
:)
Dan and Kristen
In article <32B3DE...@bc.sympatico.ca>,
Kimmo Ertolahti <kla...@bc.sympatico.ca> wrote:
>The best thing to do is to buy a 'starter kit' usually in all the pet
>shops.
Starter kits are usually cheap crap that will die quickly and kill your fish.
If you really want to start up a quality tank of any size, buy separate
items, unless you _know_ that the equip. in the kit is good quality stuff.
Especially stay away from Hartz kits and equip. in general. Buy the absolute
biggest tank you can afford. At least 30 gallons. Also, most fish-specific
stores will gladly make up a kit for you with quality equip. at your request.
Stay away from wal-mart, ames, etc... Buy a good book or get one from your
library and thoroughly read it before you even buy one piece. Read lots of
newgroup stuff.
That's my opinion...
-Kristen
Kimmo Ertolahti
Dan and Kristen wrote:
> Starter kits are usually cheap crap that will die quickly and kill your fish.
> If you really want to start up a quality tank of any size, buy separate
> items, unless you _know_ that the equip. in the kit is good quality stuff.
> Especially stay away from Hartz kits and equip. in general. Buy the absolute
> biggest tank you can afford. At least 30 gallons. Also, most fish-specific
> stores will gladly make up a kit for you with quality equip. at your request.
> Stay away from wal-mart, ames, etc... Buy a good book or get one from your
> library and thoroughly read it before you even buy one piece. Read lots of
> newgroup stuff.
>
> That's my opinion...
>
> -Kristen
Actually I did not mean the 'boxed' starter kits but rather a kit put
together out of the store. Here in PG they sell the cheap Hagen kits I
would stay away from as well, but they also put together some rather nice
'starter' aquarium kits using Oceanic aquariums and Marine hoods, as
well as Magnum filters for a lot less than picking it off the shelf...
Sorry for the conotation of 'starter' - yes DEFINITELY STAY AWAY FROM THE
BOXED STARTER KITS (except maybe for your 10 gallon fry tank)
James Purchase
> The best thing to do is to buy a 'starter kit' usually in all the pet
> the downside is that there is no 'overkill'. Your heater and filter
> system will be the bare minimum usually. What I did was exchange some of
> the items for ones larger in my 38 gallon 'starter kit'.
Sorry to disagree with a fellow Canuk, but most starter kits aren't worth
the effort to carry out of the store.
First of all you have to set a budget. It's no use trying to set up a
mini-reef if you can't afford to keep it running. For a first aquarium,
something in the 15 - 50 Gallon range would be more than suitable, which
one you choose depending upon how big your budget is and your appetite for
the hobby is. Bigger is generally better and easier to care for. Most large
stores use aquariums as "loss leaders" in the sense that their cost is less
than it would be if you tried to make it yourself. A tank of normal size
and proportion should cost no more than $2.00/G ($30.00 for 15G - $100.00
for 50G). this would be tops for the tank - as for brand, look for Hagen or
All Glass Aquarium. There are loads of others (someone else mentioned
Oceanic - nice tanks but expensive because they are very well built). Give
some thought to how you intend to light it, as standard fluorescent tubes
come in 24", 36", and 48", with the 48" tubes being the most economical
(they are usually the same price as the smaller ones).
Buy the length tank accordingly (hexagons are neat but are devils when
trying to light cheaply).
In addition to a tank, you need a stand to put it on, with the cheapest
being a metal job with a plywood top (you can buy the plywood at a lumber
yard cheaper than getting it at the pet store). Stay away from anything
that is made of pressboard or chipboard - get either wet and they will
collapse.
Glass tops can be bought at the pet store for very little money - the
better ones have plastic sections at the back which can be cut to allow for
heaters and filters to be attached tot he tank. They also come with a
plastic hinge which makes lifting part of the cover off easier for feeding
and maintenance.
In order to see the fish and grow plants, you will need light. Pet shop
light fixtures are generally overpriced and underpowered, so if you are any
good with a hammer - go to a hardware store and buy yourself a two bulb
fluorescent shop fixture and make a plywood hood to fit it and the top of
the tank. Plans are available on the Net.
Filters come in a wide range, but for a first F/W tank you won't go wrong
with a Hagen AquaClear. They are inexpensive, powerful and available
practically everywhere. Go for one that is rated for a tank bigger than the
one you buy because its always better to have excess capacity in this area,
especially as beginners have a tendancy to overstock their tanks with fish.
For a heater - again the choice is wide, but I have had excellent results
with Ebo Jaegars - I bought several years ago and they are like the
Ever-Ready Bunny - they just keep going and going. A cheap heater can stick
and cook your fish so its false economy to scrimp here. Don't get one that
is over-rated for your size tank, for the same reason - a stuck heater can
mean that fish will fry.
Get a thermometer, preferably one that sits inside the tank, not one of the
stick-on LCD jobs as they are more accurate.
Gravel - go to a home depot type store and get non-reactive (stay away from
marble or limestone) fine gravel (2-3 mm). Its a lot cheaper than the
packaged stuff at the pet store.
These are the major items that you will need, and the ones that are most
often given short shrift in "starter packs" that most pet shops put
together. Start slow, cut your teeth on a couple of livebarers such as
Platies or Swordtails, learn how to look after them and go from there.
James Purchase
j...@inforamp.net
H. E. G. Rommal
1. Get the biggest tank you can afford or have room for. Larger tanks are
more stable, both chemically and thermally, and it's easier to keep fish
alive in them. Avoid any tank <20 gal like the plague, and go for a 30+ if
you can manage it.
2. Avoid extremely high tanks, like some octagons or any which are taller
than they are long. Surface area is as important as water volume when
figuring out how many fish a tank can handle.
3. Get only as large a heater as you need. Heater overkill will just
cause the heater to cycle more often, rather than have longer, slower
heat-up ramps. Also, a thermostat failure is more disastrous if the heater
is oversized. I'd go with no more than 4 watts per gallon, and 3 would
probably be better. I've got a 150W in my 45 gal, and it's more than
enough. Even better, but more $$ (and more ugly stuff in the tank), is to
get 2 filters each half as big as you need. That way, any one failure is
less of a problem. Get good quality heaters. The really cheap ones don't
control as well. Go for a submersible like an Acura or Ebo-Jager.
4. Filtration, on the other hand, is not to be skimped on. Here's my
favorite low-cost solution. Avoid UGFs, as they can cause problems if you
are not fastidious about vacuuming the gravel and you overfeed (like all
newbees do). Get a power filter to hang on the back of the tank (I like
the Millenium 2000 myself, but there are lots of decent units). Then,
suppliment it with a cheapo sponge filter with an air pump. The Jungle
Dirt Magnet sponge filters are a nice, simple design, and only cost a few
bucks. Having multiple filters protects you from any one failing, and also
gives the bacteria a few places to colonize so you don't wipe them all out
if you overclean a filter.
Good luck!
George Rommal
Kimmo Ertolahti <kla...@bc.sympatico.ca> wrote in article
<32B3DE...@bc.sympatico.ca>...
> The best thing to do is to buy a 'starter kit' usually in all the pet
> shops. They have everything needed to get an aquarium up and running, but
> the downside is that there is no 'overkill'. Your heater and filter
> system will be the bare minimum usually. What I did was exchange some of
> the items for ones larger in my 38 gallon 'starter kit'.
>
Nathanael Henderson
: The best thing to do is to buy a 'starter kit' usually in all the pet
: shops.
Starter kits aren't bad, but often include things you may not want or
need, such as undergravel filters, box filters, cheap hoods, etc. All
you REALLY need for a cheap but functional tank is the tank, air pump,
sponge filter, and heater. Decorations can be added later once you know
you can keep the fish alive. :-) Try pricing the seperate parts you
want instead of a kit, and see what gets youu the most for your money.
: I built my own stand (couldn't see forking out a hundred bucks for a few
: pieces of 2x2) out of 3/4 inch plywood and some chair rail. Cost me 25
: bucks and it looks like a piece of furniture.
Building stands should be done with care (full tanks tend to weigh
around 10 pounds per gallon of capacity) but if you have a little
experience building things or working with wood (or are just handy)
building your own stand can save a fair amount of money and give you more
options. Generally I'd suggest a 2x4 frame for smaller tanks, going to
2x6 for 55s and so, etc. Fasten with bolts or wood screws if possible.
: What most people don't think of is installing a GFI plug into the socket
: used for the aquarium, although I have never heard of anyone getting
: electricuted I would probably be the first one... another 10 bucks...
Speaking as somebody who HAS been electrocuted like that, I wouldn't
worry--it's hard to get a serious jolt that way, and about the only way
for it to happen is if a heater tube breaks and you decide to grab it
without unplugging it first. :-) (Ah, the folly of youth....)
: As for brand names Fluval or Magnum for filters if you want a see through
: tank or Aquaclear if you want a against the wall tank.
Canister filters are very good (and always buy mail order!) but a pain
to clean. For the average aquarist, the hang-on filters like Aquaclears
might be preferable.
: For heaters I only go with Hagen
Ebo Jagar heaters also have a good reputation, and aren't very
expensive mail order (VERY expensive in stores.)
: and for a cheap but good gravel source try sand blasting
: sand. African cichlids love it. and a 5 gallon bucket only cost 10 bucks
: here in canada.
Good advice--I get small gravel (good for plants) in 50 pound bags for
$10 each. Sure, you can't get it in those neon colors, but I don't miss
that in the least. :-) (Quartz gravel, a nice natural brown.)
Nathan H.
Roy Parker
On 20 Dec 1996 19:15:39 GMT, ju...@pconline.com (Nathanael Henderson)
wrote:
>: The best thing to do is to buy a 'starter kit' usually in all the pet
>: shops.
>
> Starter kits aren't bad, but often include things you may not want or
>need, such as undergravel filters, box filters, cheap hoods, etc. All
>you REALLY need for a cheap but functional tank is the tank, air pump,
>sponge filter, and heater. Decorations can be added later once you know
>you can keep the fish alive. :-) Try pricing the seperate parts you
>want instead of a kit, and see what gets youu the most for your money.
I personally like UGF, and am experimenting now with my first RFUGF.
I think it is even better. Don't knock ALL starter kits! There is an
aquarium store on Beechnut here in Houston that has a great starter
kit for $12. You get a 10 gallon aquarium, small air pump, box filter
(or for another $1 a small sponge filter), heater, thermometer, air
stone, airline tubing and a small can of Wardley's or Tetra fish food.
Not bad for $12, and it makes a great hospital tank. My total cost
without tax was about $16, but that included a sponge filter and a
heater upgrade to something more reliable. Funny thing was, the owner
of the shop recommended the upgrades, and then sold me the stuff for
less than the price difference. I obviously do a lot of business
there now. If you're in Houston, check them out. on Beechnut just
inside Beltway 8 on the south side of the road.
>
>: I built my own stand (couldn't see forking out a hundred bucks for a few
>: pieces of 2x2) out of 3/4 inch plywood and some chair rail. Cost me 25
>: bucks and it looks like a piece of furniture.
>
> Building stands should be done with care (full tanks tend to weigh
>around 10 pounds per gallon of capacity) but if you have a little
>experience building things or working with wood (or are just handy)
>building your own stand can save a fair amount of money and give you more
>options. Generally I'd suggest a 2x4 frame for smaller tanks, going to
>2x6 for 55s and so, etc. Fasten with bolts or wood screws if possible.
>
Bolts and screws are short term solutions only (1-4 years). They
eventually work loose. Get a decent woodworking book from the library
and figure out how to make lap joints using glue (epoxy is
waterproof). Use screws/nails/bolts like the old timers did...they
used them to huld the furniture together until the glue dried. The
glue is much stronger than mechanical fasteners, especially modern
glues.
No need for 2x6 for 55 gallon tanks. Compression strength for pine is
720 psi. Read the book on wood joints, and design the stand
appropriately. Look at the stands the aquarium stores use. They're
virtually all made out of 2x4. Scares me that they're also just
screwed together. But those stands are usually not built to last
20-50 years either. I heartily would suggest vertical supports every
2 feet for any stand you construct, however.
One final caveat...stay away from particle board, and even plywood if
you can. Particle board, modern glue notwithstanding, crumbles after
it gets wet. Some plywood is water repellent/water resistant. IMHO,
they're cheap stopgap measures. I use plain wood for my construction,
and if I design it properly and build it properly, that wood stand for
a 55gal aquarium will be around 50 years from now for my grand and
great-grandkids to enjoy.
>: What most people don't think of is installing a GFI plug into the socket
>: used for the aquarium, although I have never heard of anyone getting
>: electricuted I would probably be the first one... another 10 bucks...
>
> Speaking as somebody who HAS been electrocuted like that, I wouldn't
>worry--it's hard to get a serious jolt that way, and about the only way
>for it to happen is if a heater tube breaks and you decide to grab it
>without unplugging it first. :-) (Ah, the folly of youth....)
>
Get a GFI. Cheap insurance. I don't have one yet, but I will. Not
worth the risk. $10 and 10 minutes to install it.
>: As for brand names Fluval or Magnum for filters if you want a see through
>: tank or Aquaclear if you want a against the wall tank.
>
> Canister filters are very good (and always buy mail order!) but a pain
>to clean. For the average aquarist, the hang-on filters like Aquaclears
>might be preferable.
>
>: For heaters I only go with Hagen
>
> Ebo Jagar heaters also have a good reputation, and aren't very
>expensive mail order (VERY expensive in stores.)
One of the things I've noticed since I got back into the hobby is how
much prices differ at various stores. I've noticed that stores that
carry FAMA (which carries price ads for the mail order shops) tend to
have prices comperable to the magazine ads. No, these stores are NOT
as cheap, but it is close enough that you buy from them anyway. As an
example, the shop I mentioned above was selling an Aquaclear 300 for
about $2 above what I could get it mail order. The local Petsmart was
about $10 higher than that, and Petco was out of sight. I now try to
shop places that sell FAMA, because they know you can order from the
magazine. They make sure they are competitive.
>
>: and for a cheap but good gravel source try sand blasting
>: sand. African cichlids love it. and a 5 gallon bucket only cost 10 bucks
>: here in canada.
Feel wtness behind my ears. I paid a dollar a pound for 75 lbs for my
55. Stupid.
>
> Good advice--I get small gravel (good for plants) in 50 pound bags for
>$10 each. Sure, you can't get it in those neon colors, but I don't miss
>that in the least. :-) (Quartz gravel, a nice natural brown.)
>
>
>Nathan H.
Roy Parker--Buckskinner, brewer, and semi-handyman
Booshway, 1998 SW Regional Rendezvous. Houston, Texas
rpar...@ix.netcom.com roy.p...@psl-online.com
Malev0lent
> Building stands should be done with care (full tanks tend to weigh
> around 10 pounds per gallon of capacity) but if you have a little
> experience building things or working with wood (or are just handy)
> building your own stand can save a fair amount of money and give you
more
> options. Generally I'd suggest a 2x4 frame for smaller tanks, going to
> 2x6 for 55s and so, etc. Fasten with bolts or wood screws if possible.
Acually, thats not quite why. It doesn't take much to support the tank.
Just look at a stand you'd buy. Its not made of very strong woods, i.e.
no 2x4 or 2x6's.
Salt water weighs about 10lbs per gallon, fresh, about 8. Ok, so you have
a 100 gallon tank, set up salt water. thats what? 1000 lbs.plus tank.
Ever notice where things like this are suported? at the corners. the
weight is dispesed to the corners, therefore, imagine 2, 175 lb people
standing on the same place, thats about how much you need to suport.
Don't get me wrong, it is very important to support it goood and sturdy,
but the thing that is often missed, is levelness. Oceanic for example
offers a 5-15 year warrenty, depending on the size of the tank. This
warrenty is void, if you don't use an Oceanaic stand. Why? The warrent
surely won't cover it if the stand you build breaks, and the tank falls
and breaks. Not so much for support, but if the stand isn't level, it may
cause the tank to torque, and that puts stress on the seams, and that can
casue them to rip apart, and the tank will leak. If your going to build
your own stand, its a good thing to know.
Mark
Nathanael Henderson
Roy Parker (rpar...@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: On 20 Dec 1996 19:15:39 GMT, ju...@pconline.com (Nathanael Henderson)
:
: Bolts and screws are short term solutions only (1-4 years).
My oldest screwed together stand is about 8 years old and doesn't show
any signs of deterioration.
: They eventually work loose.
How? finger-tight nuts on bolts could come off, but with locking nuts
nothing short of an act of god is likely to get them to come off by
themselves. :-) (I've never seen a wood screw work it's way out of a
stand or other non-moving item either, and can't think of a good
mechanism by which it could happen....)
: No need for 2x6 for 55 gallon tanks.
Admittedly it's not NEEDED, but I tend towards the "over-design,
over-build" aproach. :-)
: Compression strength for pine is 720 psi.
But flexural strength is also very important (perhaps more so given
that it tends to be muuch lower than compression strength.)
: 20-50 years either. I heartily would suggest vertical supports every
: 2 feet for any stand you construct, however.
Good point, forgot to mention that...
: it gets wet. Some plywood is water repellent/water resistant.
If you want to try plywood, "weather treated" or "marine" plywood will
survive just about anything. :-) I've tried particle board and would not
recommend it. Untreated plywood shouldn't be a problem unless you tend to
get the stand wet while cleaning, etc. (But it won't look as nice as
non-composite wood like oak, pine, etc.)
: Get a GFI. Cheap insurance. I don't have one yet, but I will. Not
: worth the risk. $10 and 10 minutes to install it.
The question is just what IS the risk? I've never heard of an aquarist
being seriously electrocuted by his/her tank. Anybody know of a case?
Nathan H.
Chris Green
>
> : Get a GFI. Cheap insurance. I don't have one yet, but I will. Not
> : worth the risk. $10 and 10 minutes to install it.
>
> The question is just what IS the risk? I've never heard of an aquarist
> being seriously electrocuted by his/her tank. Anybody know of a case?
>
>
> Nathan H.
>
I've actually seen it on a couple of Resue 911 type shows and the shows
about people who saw god.. That's enough for me.. Put me down for one!!!
:)
Chris Green
Gr...@Neosoft.Com
Eric Edelman
I built a stand for my 180 gallon tank. I used 4x4's all the way around,
they are lap-jointed and held together with 1" carriage bolts with
lockwashers. You could probably put a car on top of this thing without any
problems, and I don't see how these bolts are going to work themselves out.
A couple things to think about before you build a stand: 1) Make a "lip"
around 1/4-1/2" high to set the tank on if it's glass. This will keep the
tank in place. 2) Acrylic tanks need a solid bottom, you cannot just
support the edges like on a glass tank. 3) If it's a large tank, take a
look under the house and see where the floor joists are. Place your
tank/stand evenly on the floor joists to keep it level.
--
Eric Edelman
mot...@worldnet.att.net
> My oldest screwed together stand is about 8 years old and doesn't show
> any signs of deterioration.
>
> : They eventually work loose.
>
> How? finger-tight nuts on bolts could come off, but with locking nuts
> nothing short of an act of god is likely to get them to come off by
> themselves. :-) (I've never seen a wood screw work it's way out of a
> stand or other non-moving item either, and can't think of a good
> mechanism by which it could happen....)
>
> : No need for 2x6 for 55 gallon tanks.
>
> Admittedly it's not NEEDED, but I tend towards the "over-design,
> over-build" aproach. :-)
>
> : Compression strength for pine is 720 psi.
>
> But flexural strength is also very important (perhaps more so given
> that it tends to be muuch lower than compression strength.)
>
> : 20-50 years either. I heartily would suggest vertical supports every
> : 2 feet for any stand you construct, however.
>
> Good point, forgot to mention that...
>
> : it gets wet. Some plywood is water repellent/water resistant.
>
> If you want to try plywood, "weather treated" or "marine" plywood will
> survive just about anything. :-) I've tried particle board and would not
> recommend it. Untreated plywood shouldn't be a problem unless you tend
to
> get the stand wet while cleaning, etc. (But it won't look as nice as
> non-composite wood like oak, pine, etc.)
>
> : Get a GFI. Cheap insurance. I don't have one yet, but I will. Not
> : worth the risk. $10 and 10 minutes to install it.
>
John Penix
"Eric Edelman" <mot...@worldnet.att.net> writes:
> A couple things to think about before you build a stand: 1) Make a "lip"
> around 1/4-1/2" high to set the tank on if it's glass. This will keep the
> tank in place.
I don't understand:
- where's the tank is going to go once it's full of water.
- why you set the tank _on_ the lip and not inside it
- what you would make the lip out of, assuming you really need it.
Anyone?
--
John Penix University of Cincinnati ECECS
jpe...@ececs.uc.edu Knowledge-Based Software Engineering Lab
<a http://www.ececs.uc.edu/~jpenix/>I</a>
"I am, I exist, that is certain. But how often?" - Descartes
chr...@lplizard.com
ju...@pconline.com (Nathanael Henderson) writes:
> The question is just what IS the risk? I've never heard of an aquarist
> being seriously electrocuted by his/her tank. Anybody know of a case?
I once had a nasty shock while cleaning up a spill. The cause
was a drop of salt water on my hands fingers while plugging something
in. It hurt and tripped the GFI.
While on the subject of electricity, another really nice thing
to have is a power center which allows turning off each appliance with
its own switch. I have a strip like this from a lab. I taped labels to
each cord near the plug end. You can also find individually switched
outlet centers at computer stores.
--
Chris Green
s_r...@flash.net
INathanael Henderson wrote:
>
> : The best thing to do is to buy a 'starter kit' usually in all the pet
> : shops.
>
> Starter kits aren't bad, but often include things you may not want or
> need, such as undergravel filters, box filters, cheap hoods, etc. All
> you REALLY need for a cheap but functional tank is the tank, air pump,
> sponge filter, and heater. Decorations can be added later once you know
> you can keep the fish alive. :-) Try pricing the seperate parts you
> want instead of a kit, and see what gets youu the most for your money.
>
> : pieces of 2x2) out of 3/4 inch plywood and some chair rail. Cost me 25
> : bucks and it looks like a piece of furniture.
>
> around 10 pounds per gallon of capacity) but if you have a little
> experience building things or working with wood (or are just handy)
> building your own stand can save a fair amount of money and give you more
> options. Generally I'd suggest a 2x4 frame for smaller tanks, going to
> 2x6 for 55s and so, etc. Fasten with bolts or wood screws if possible.
>
> : used for the aquarium, although I have never heard of anyone getting
> : electricuted I would probably be the first one... another 10 bucks...
>
> Speaking as somebody who HAS been electrocuted like that, I wouldn't
> worry--it's hard to get a serious jolt that way, and about the only way
> for it to happen is if a heater tube breaks and you decide to grab it
> without unplugging it first. :-) (Ah, the folly of youth....)
>
> : tank or Aquaclear if you want a against the wall tank.
>
> Canister filters are very good (and always buy mail order!) but a pain
> to clean. For the average aquarist, the hang-on filters like Aquaclears
> might be preferable.
>
> : For heaters I only go with Hagen
>
> Ebo Jagar heaters also have a good reputation, and aren't very
> expensive mail order (VERY expensive in stores.)
>
> : sand. African cichlids love it. and a 5 gallon bucket only cost 10 bucks
> : here in canada.
>
> $10 each. Sure, you can't get it in those neon colors, but I don't miss
> that in the least. :-) (Quartz gravel, a nice natural brown.)
>
> Nathan H.
If you keep the room your tank is in fairly warm, the water will be the
same temp. many people especially those in warmer climes, don't even
need a heater. - I only have in one in my outside pond for the winter.
Billi-Bong
My 2 cents:
If you can afford it, get a 55 gallon tank with a Eheim 2213 cannister
and a good SUBMERSIBLE heater as mentioned below. I'm not sure any
reputable companies actually make non-sub heaters.
AVOID UG filters if you are keeping cichlids of almost any sort.
I don't like hanging filters because they tend to look bad and make
noise when the water get a little low. Go with a cannister if
possible. I like the Eheim, but the Fluvals work well. I don't care
for the magnums, but that personal opinion.
If you can't afford a cannister, get a hanging.
>> The best thing to do is to buy a 'starter kit' usually in all the pet
>> shops. They have everything needed to get an aquarium up and running, but
>
>> the downside is that there is no 'overkill'. Your heater and filter
>> system will be the bare minimum usually. What I did was exchange some of
>> the items for ones larger in my 38 gallon 'starter kit'.
>>
>> The pet shop also gave me 50% off on fish for the first 3 months and
>> threw in some 'fish bucks'. It cost me nothing to buy my starter goldfish
>
>> and then my angels (6).
>>
>> I built my own stand (couldn't see forking out a hundred bucks for a few
>> pieces of 2x2) out of 3/4 inch plywood and some chair rail. Cost me 25
>> bucks and it looks like a piece of furniture.
>>
>> What most people don't think of is installing a GFI plug into the socket
>> used for the aquarium, although I have never heard of anyone getting
>> electricuted I would probably be the first one... another 10 bucks...
>>
>> All in all my 38 gallon setup was just over 200 bucks, the tank alone had
>
>> a price tag on it of $75 (canadian). It is an Oceanic tank 3'x1'x22"
>>
>> I have built a lot of tanks up to the 15 gallon range but my trust stops
>> there. They were all built from residential glass I picked up from
>> glass shops. And they were free, older windows. Just the cost of silicone
>
>> was all I had to fork out. Created a nice 8 sided 15 gallon angel tank
>> but that is neither here nor there...
>>
>> As for brand names Fluval or Magnum for filters if you want a see through
>
>> tank or Aquaclear if you want a against the wall tank. For heaters I only
>
>> go with Hagen and for a cheap but good gravel source try sand blasting
>> sand. African cichlids love it. and a 5 gallon bucket only cost 10 bucks
>> here in canada.
>>
DarkNINja
On 22 Dec 1996 18:31:13 GMT, "Chris Green" <gr...@neosoft.com> wrote:
Excuse me for being ignorant but what the heck is a GFI.....thanx
>
>>
>> : Get a GFI. Cheap insurance. I don't have one yet, but I will. Not
>> : worth the risk. $10 and 10 minutes to install it.
>>
>> The question is just what IS the risk? I've never heard of an aquarist
>
>> being seriously electrocuted by his/her tank. Anybody know of a case?
>>
>>
Bill Gates
Ground Fault Interrupt. It shuts of the juice if you do something
stupid.
On Thu, 09 Jan 1997 00:06:18 GMT, dark...@thegrid.net (DarkNINja)
wrote:
>On 22 Dec 1996 18:31:13 GMT, "Chris Green" <gr...@neosoft.com> wrote:
>
>Excuse me for being ignorant but what the heck is a GFI.....thanx
>>
>>>
>>> : Get a GFI. Cheap insurance. I don't have one yet, but I will. Not
>>> : worth the risk. $10 and 10 minutes to install it.
>>>
Gernot Lachner
> Ground Fault Interrupt. It shuts of the juice if you do
> something stupid.
<chuckle> that your real name bill g. ?
in answer to the Q about people being electrocuted by aquarium
equipment;
fact is that accidental electrocutions from any household
equipment are extremely rare, many more people falling victim to
lightning.
someone asked whether anyone was willing to jump into a bath
with a live hairdryer - some years ago i was in the pool when
the electrical cord of a lawn mower fell into the water, exactly
that part that was joined with a connector block.
this happened less than a meter from me - never even felt
anything, the trip switch reacted instantaneously.
so i guess the answer is yes, provided i can check the trip
switch first ;-)
those 911 programs - anyone ever notice that every single one of
the people involved were/are profound christians ?
yeah, i know it's off-topic;
--
the BAT ~..~