Here are a bunch of question, which I don't think were answered
well enough in the FAQ.
1) To UGF/RUGF or not to UGF/RUGF ?
Most books I've read seem to place emphasis on this technique;
a couple of stores I've talked to discuorage it due to the
problem with anaerobic bacteria growth. Rather than asking which
is true, I'll ask "Do YOU use one and why/why not ?"
2) Canister filters
This sounded like the preferred method of filtration. Some questions
I have regarding canister filters are:
* Do they provide enough biological filtration ?
* How well do they work in an aquarium with no other filtration?
* Is this last statement even plausible ?
* Which brands are preferred and why ?
* How easy are they to clean/change filter media ?
* Do you use a "bio-wheel" in conjunction with them ?
* The more GPM the better ?
* What tyoe of filter media do you use ?
3) Foam fractionation
Even though I asked "is a canister filter enough", the idea
of a foam fractionator sounds like a good idea. Is there
some drawback to using one when the aquarium is just being
established ?
4) Biological filtration
I have recently seem a gadget which looks kind of like a protein
skimmer, but is a tube filled with some sort of "sand". This is
supposed to provide a great place for bacteria growth. Not too
expensive either - $55 or so. What's the word on these type of
filters.
5) Heaters
A hopefully simple question: One large heater or two smaller units ?
Am I to assume that it is better to err on the large side of the
heater ?
6) Starting off - what to expect
My basic expectations are to set the aquarium up, have everything
running for a few days to make sure eveything is stable, and then
throw in some Damsels to get the bacteria growth started. Follow
up with daily ammonia/nitrite/nitrate checks until "normal"
readings have been established. Then slowly add more fish.
* Is this a proper way to start off
* How much faster will the bacteria colonies establish
themselves if I get some "live rock" before adding
fish ?
* FOr a 55gal aquarium, what's the limit on how many fish
(# of inches) to add and still be assured that there
won't be any problems while nitrosomonas and nitrobacter
establish themselves ?
Some general info about the aquarium:
* I'm not planning to keep any invertebrates, except maybe
a banded coral shrimp.
* It'll be in our family room, no direct sunlight, temperature
range of 65-85 deg F.
* I'm not planning to keep an excessive amount of fish -
just a "nice" display.
* I don't want to skimp on filtration, if that's one way to
avoid problems.
* I'd like it to be as low-maintenance as possible. Since
I have no idea what to expect in the long run, keeping
it low maintenance is the best way to ensure it'll be
a hobby I'll pursue in the long run.
Thanks for any advice, e-mail is appreciated.
Martin
>5) Heaters
> A hopefully simple question: One large heater or two smaller units ?
> Am I to assume that it is better to err on the large side of the
> heater ?
Not necessarily better to err on the side of large. I think maybe the opposite.
If the heater sticks on and it's oversize what happens? The heater will last
much longer if it is on almost continuously, at least for the types that use
bi-metallic contacts. Less cycles equate to a longer life.
I think two heaters are optimum. Size the main heater so that it is just big
enough to keep the tank one or two degrees less than your target temperature
when running continuously. Then use an even smaller supplemental heater to
"tune" the temperature to what you want.
"The Optimum Aquarium" has a useful chart on heater sizing in the appendices.
It is based on the size of the tank and how many degrees over room temperature
you need to heat the water.
*Mike Roberts - mi...@microspan.com
*North American Internet, Ltd. - http://www.nail.net
*Colorado Springs, CO - (719) 635-NAIL
*Providing affordable ISDN to the Front Range...
>I have decided to embark on a journey to get my first aquarium going.
>While I am new at this, I've tried to read as much as possible and
>have a good understanding of the theoretical aspects.
>
>Here are a bunch of question, which I don't think were answered
>well enough in the FAQ.
>
>1) To UGF/RUGF or not to UGF/RUGF ?
> Most books I've read seem to place emphasis on this technique;
> a couple of stores I've talked to discuorage it due to the
> problem with anaerobic bacteria growth. Rather than asking which
> is true, I'll ask "Do YOU use one and why/why not ?"
No. (Just don't like them personally, others may have great success
with them) They must be cleaned constantly and will eventually cause
problems. (how many people do you see switching TO UGF after using
another meathod of filtration?
>2) Canister filters
> This sounded like the preferred method of filtration. Some questions
> I have regarding canister filters are:
> * Do they provide enough biological filtration ?
> * How well do they work in an aquarium with no other filtration?
> * Is this last statement even plausible ?
> * Which brands are preferred and why ?
> * How easy are they to clean/change filter media ?
> * Do you use a "bio-wheel" in conjunction with them ?
> * The more GPM the better ?
> * What tyoe of filter media do you use ?
Good for "spot" cleaning (clear up cloudyness, run carbon through,
etc. Not needed (especially full time) but a usefull filter to have
around for occasional use.
>3) Foam fractionation
> Even though I asked "is a canister filter enough", the idea
> of a foam fractionator sounds like a good idea. Is there
> some drawback to using one when the aquarium is just being
> established ?
Some would say a must have. (they are really great filters, essential
for a reef tank, usefull on a fish only tank.) (you can run your fish
only tanks w/o them, but if you have the bucks to spend on one, go for
it. (dont need the largest ones available (for fish only tanks) but
you do need to get a decent one to really be usefull. (cpr, us
aquarium make pretty good hang on the tank units, but plan on about
$130-140 for them. If that is too much, wait to get one till you can
afford a good one. Cheap skimmers will just flustrate you to death.
>4) Biological filtration
> I have recently seem a gadget which looks kind of like a protein
> skimmer, but is a tube filled with some sort of "sand". This is
> supposed to provide a great place for bacteria growth. Not too
> expensive either - $55 or so. What's the word on these type of
> filters.
The sand filter you are talking about is a fluidised bed filter. They
work very well. I happen to use 2 Marineland Emperor bio-wheels on my
90 gallon fish only with good success. wet\dry filters work well
also, but can get a bit pricy. I really cant reccomend the bio-wheel
60s (the ones that hang on the tank from a canaster return) I tried
them and ended up returning them because the threw a TON of tiny
bubbles into the tank. The Emperors are working well for me though.
(the "sand" filter would work as well, if not better)
>5) Heaters
> A hopefully simple question: One large heater or two smaller units ?
> Am I to assume that it is better to err on the large side of the
> heater ?
Two smaller heaters will give you a little more safety. (if one gets
stuck on or off) but 1 larger heater will give you less cords in your
tank. Its really up to you.
>6) Starting off - what to expect
> My basic expectations are to set the aquarium up, have everything
> running for a few days to make sure eveything is stable, and then
> throw in some Damsels to get the bacteria growth started. Follow
> up with daily ammonia/nitrite/nitrate checks until "normal"
> readings have been established. Then slowly add more fish.
> * Is this a proper way to start off
> * How much faster will the bacteria colonies establish
> themselves if I get some "live rock" before adding
> fish ?
> * FOr a 55gal aquarium, what's the limit on how many fish
> (# of inches) to add and still be assured that there
> won't be any problems while nitrosomonas and nitrobacter
> establish themselves ?
Your best bet is to get some substrate (sand or gravel) from an
established aquarium (ask your dealer for a little bit) this will help
alot. One or Two damsels would be fine to cycle the tank. Once your
nitrite levels are at Zero you can start adding ONE fish about every
other week till you get to the level of fish you want in your tank.
With most marine tanks fish will start to kill each other because of a
lack of space before your biological filtration gives out. Give them
lots of hiding spaces. The total number of fish you keep is up to
you, but you can keep MANY smaller fish in compared to 1 LARGE fish
when just using the inches rule. just add new fish slowly and pay
attention if the fish start picking on each other and acting crouded.
>Some general info about the aquarium:
> * I'm not planning to keep any invertebrates, except maybe
> a banded coral shrimp.
> * It'll be in our family room, no direct sunlight, temperature
> range of 65-85 deg F.
> * I'm not planning to keep an excessive amount of fish -
> just a "nice" display.
> * I don't want to skimp on filtration, if that's one way to
> avoid problems.
> * I'd like it to be as low-maintenance as possible. Since
> I have no idea what to expect in the long run, keeping
> it low maintenance is the best way to ensure it'll be
> a hobby I'll pursue in the long run.
Go with the bio wheel or fludised bed, add the skimmer when you can.
(the bio wheel will let you add carbon w/o purchasing a canister
filter.) You should also consider getting a cleaner shrimp. Will
help with any fish diseases and are rather colorful. (add the inverts
to your tank after you start adding non-damsels, you dont have to
consider them your "fish" for the two week period.
>Thanks for any advice, e-mail is appreciated.
>
>Martin
If you have any other questions feel free to e-mail me (or post a
message) and I (or others) will do our best to help you out.
Enjoy your new tank....
Michael J. Hand (Lo...@iaonline.com)