I will need to be replacing my VHO and three 175W BlueLine 10k+ bulbs
shortly. Initially I enjoyed the blue and used 1 each of the URI VHO bulbs
to accent & pull out the reds.
I want to keep the flouresce of the soft corals & shrooms, but w/o as much
blue. I'd like accurate, vibrant color.
So, what are your recommendations for MH's and VHO's.
BTW.....is replacement once a year still the recommendation, even with
electronic MH ballasts?
Thanks!
If you prefer less blue, go with 6500K Iwasaki's and a higher kelvin VHO
lamp for some balance.
One year is considered a max for most ballast\lamp combinations, usually
less.
westcott
http://www.farmfrags.com
I've experimented with the 6500k prior to getting to the BlueLine 10k+.
It's a pretty yellow light. So yellow that 3 VHO actinics didn't make much
impact. I didn't have the bulbs in for more than 15 hours so I'm not sure
if the yellow would have faded much after an 80-100 hour burn in. Would the
color go more towards white than yellow after a burn in? Should I have been
more patient?
The Blue Lines seem to be getting more blue, but then again I might be
getting more sensitive. Champion says they should get less blue over time.
I also tried the Ushio 10k's in the beginning and just looking at the bulbs
I did not see as much blue as the Blue Line's. I wonder if the Blue Lines
are more like a 14k? Can two bulbs be a true 10k going through water and
one be a whitish light and the other a distinct blue (when looking at the
bulb itself)
I'd love to find a compromise, like an 8k <G>. I seem to remember that the
greens didn't pop or flouresce with the 10k Ushio and 6,500 Iwasaki's. I
eventually ended up with the BL's. Would being patient and waiting for the
burn in time have made a difference?
What's so bad is this is so subjective. If I get the Ushio's I may have to
replace the VHO's in some trial and error configuration to get the flouresce
and vibrant colors..
My wish = a whiter light with greens that flouresce and accurate vibrant
color. I have three 175 MH and three 5 foot VHO over a 6 foot tank. Anyone
know the proper recipe <Grin>?
Thanks!
LT
"Brad Westcott" <west...@airmail.net> wrote in message
news:E1949C73F50278C8.004A288D...@lp.airnews.net...
You have asked some good questions. I must first clarify that you are
asking questions that can be perceived as being VERY subjective. Your
blue and yellow and my blue and yellow can be quite different.
I will clarify below.
LarryT wrote:
>
> Thanks Brad!
>
> I've experimented with the 6500k prior to getting to the BlueLine 10k+.
> It's a pretty yellow light. So yellow that 3 VHO actinics didn't make much
> impact. I didn't have the bulbs in for more than 15 hours so I'm not sure
> if the yellow would have faded much after an 80-100 hour burn in. Would the
> color go more towards white than yellow after a burn in?
It may not be quite as yellow after burn but IMO, it is still pretty
yellow.
Should I have been
> more patient?
It still seems pretty yellow to me after burn in.
>
> The Blue Lines seem to be getting more blue, but then again I might be
> getting more sensitive. Champion says they should get less blue over time.
Champion is correct. High Kelvin lamps will moderate over time.
>
> I also tried the Ushio 10k's in the beginning and just looking at the bulbs
> I did not see as much blue as the Blue Line's. I wonder if the Blue Lines
> are more like a 14k? Can two bulbs be a true 10k going through water and
> one be a whitish light and the other a distinct blue (when looking at the
> bulb itself)
I find the Ushio lamps to be more white than blue. My experience is
limited to the double ended 10K Ushio lamps.
>
> I'd love to find a compromise, like an 8k <G>. I seem to remember that the
> greens didn't pop or flouresce with the 10k Ushio and 6,500 Iwasaki's. I
> eventually ended up with the BL's. Would being patient and waiting for the
> burn in time have made a difference?
I am a little confused. If I understand you correctly, the Ushios were
white, the BlueLines were blue, and the Iwasakis were yellow.
If the BL's were too blue, then I would have thought that the Ushios
would have been more to your liking. Did you try the Ushios without any
VHO supplementation? This solution sounds like the right compromise.
Maybe a shorter high Kelvin VHO lamp might get the right look for you.
Please remember, looks are important because, after all, this is for our
viewing enjoyment. On the other hand, Photosynthetic Available Radiance
is the most important factor for coral growth. Iwasakis are the best for
this. The Ushios are second, the BL are a distant third. So a compromise
is in order.
I hope this information helps you make the right choice. Wish I could be
more help. Please feel free to ask more questions.
westcott
http://www.farmfrags.com
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"LarryT" <ljte...@home.com> wrote in message
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