Help - Cleaning soot from brass andirons
jdmiller
While visiting New Jersey in conjunction with Thanksgiving, we tripped
through a shore area "junque" shop, and spotted (and bought) an unusual
pair of brass andirons. They're sort of art deco, with squared off
structures and flat tops. One is VERY heavily soot covered, the other
not quite so bad. The "dealer" advised spraying them with oven cleaner
before trying to polish; other advise was to use only triple - 0 steel
wool. We tried the latter, and it won't touch the heavy soot (at least
not very quickly). Short of spending maybe 50 hours in rubbing, can
anyone suggest a method of attack that won't ruin them? We don't think
they're really ancient, but are definitely interesting. I could post
pics if that would help.
Hope all had as great a Thanksgiving (or just November 25th for those
across the water) as we did.
JD Miller
Gaithersburg, MD
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Rhiannon
jdmiller wrote:
>
> Hello all -
> While visiting New Jersey in conjunction with Thanksgiving, we tripped
> through a shore area "junque" shop, and spotted (and bought) an unusual
> pair of brass andirons. They're sort of art deco, with squared off
> structures and flat tops. One is VERY heavily soot covered, the other
> not quite so bad. The "dealer" advised spraying them with oven cleaner
> before trying to polish; other advise was to use only triple - 0 steel
> wool. We tried the latter, and it won't touch the heavy soot (at least
> not very quickly). Short of spending maybe 50 hours in rubbing, can
> anyone suggest a method of attack that won't ruin them? We don't think
> they're really ancient, but are definitely interesting. I could post
> pics if that would help.
Fireplace soot is very waxy and sticky, so I would
think that the first thing to try would be a
degreaser or tar remover (GUNK is my favorite, but
probably others would work) available in your
local automotive parts store. It worked well on
an old pot-bellied stove I had. Wash anything you
clean with these well with soap and water before using.
Rhiannon
who is usually wrong in her suggestions, but
someone hopefully will jump in if anything I say
is destructive!?8-))
Marshall Schuon
>
>If there is local heavy pitting from the soot (...I said heavy
>pitting, not petting!) then use a handicraft tool like a Bremel (?)
>with a tiny soft wire wheel attachment to CAREFULLY remove the worst
>small oxidation spots. Then use Brasso ...
>
>Jon
_______
It's a Dremel tool, Jon. I wanted one all my life, and I remember
standing with my nose pressed against the glass of Young's Hardware in
Allentown, Pa., back about 1946, lusting after the one in the window.
Mom couldn't afford it, and I went most of my life with the unresolved
hankering hidden somewhere down in my psyche. And then ... and
then!!! My son bought me one for Christmas about four years ago! The
Dremel is indispensable, and I can't for the life of me figure out why
I never just went and bought one.
Marshall
Happy with small things
Doris Bialas
paint or stripper
from wood, never used it on metal. Try each on a piece of junk first
then you can see which works best. I've got a question
I want to make name plates in wood but
when I use the router attachment my bit
starts out at the right depth but as I keep going it gets deeper and
deeper, What am I doing wrong? Doris
Tina Sutherland
What do you think would work best, and should I
> be using jeweler's rouge? Anyone know?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charleen
Could somebody tell me where one buys jewelers rouge? And maybe some
guidelines as to it's use?
Tina - asking the dumb questions so you don't have to.
Richard Ward
very difficult to find). A small amount is applied to a felt buffing
wheel, and the piece to be polished, generally a gemstone being given
it's final polish, is put up against the wheel and polished. I takes a
while as it is a very fine abrasive, and it stains anything and
everything it touches. Never used it to clean soot from andirons, so I
can't say how well it would work.
Richard Ward
Charleen Bunjiovianna
>On 28 Nov 1999 16:13:02 GMT, jon.d2...@ukonline.co.uk wrote:
>
>>If there is local heavy pitting from the soot (...I said heavy
>>pitting, not petting!) then use a handicraft tool like a Bremel (?)
>>with a tiny soft wire wheel attachment to CAREFULLY remove the worst
>>small oxidation spots. Then use Brasso ...
>
>standing with my nose pressed against the glass of Young's Hardware in
>Allentown, Pa., back about 1946, lusting after the one in the window.
>Mom couldn't afford it, and I went most of my life with the unresolved
>hankering hidden somewhere down in my psyche. And then ... and
>then!!! My son bought me one for Christmas about four years ago! The
>Dremel is indispensable, and I can't for the life of me figure out why
>I never just went and bought one.
Oh, cool! A tool thread. Don't know why I never thought of this.
We have a Dremel and I want to use it to remove really stubborn tarnish
from hard-to-polish places on sterling pieces. There's a bewildering
array of attachments for the Dremel, including a felt buffing tip and
a cloth buffing wheel. What do you think would work best, and should I
Marshall Schuon
Bunjiovianna) wrote:
>
>Oh, cool! A tool thread. Don't know why I never thought of this.
>
>We have a Dremel and I want to use it to remove really stubborn tarnish
>from hard-to-polish places on sterling pieces. There's a bewildering
>array of attachments for the Dremel, including a felt buffing tip and
>a cloth buffing wheel. What do you think would work best, and should I
>be using jeweler's rouge? Anyone know?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charleen
I'll have to look in my book tomorrow out in the garage. I have a
huge polishing kit that I bought from Eastwood to polish various car
parts. I'll let you know.
Marshall
Marshall Schuon
<char...@uswest.net> wrote:
><snip>
>
> What do you think would work best, and should I
>> be using jeweler's rouge? Anyone know?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Charleen
>
> Could somebody tell me where one buys jewelers rouge? And maybe some
>guidelines as to it's use?
> Tina - asking the dumb questions so you don't have to.
_______
You can order it from Eastwood in Malvern, Pa., although they are some
pricey. The phone is 800 345-1178, or you can go to their website at
I just looked, and they sell jewelers rouge for $6.99 a tube.
Marshall
jon.d2...@ukonline.co.uk
>On 28 Nov 1999 16:13:02 GMT, jon.d2...@ukonline.co.uk wrote:
>
>>
>>If there is local heavy pitting from the soot (...I said heavy
>>pitting, not petting!) then use a handicraft tool like a Bremel (?)
>>with a tiny soft wire wheel attachment to CAREFULLY remove the
worst
>>small oxidation spots. Then use Brasso ...
>>
>_______
>
>It's a Dremel tool, Jon. I wanted one all my life, and I remember
>standing with my nose pressed against the glass of Young's Hardware
in
>Allentown, Pa., back about 1946, lusting after the one in the
window.
>Mom couldn't afford it, and I went most of my life with the
unresolved
>hankering hidden somewhere down in my psyche. And then ... and
>then!!! My son bought me one for Christmas about four years ago!
The
>Dremel is indispensable, and I can't for the life of me figure out
why
>I never just went and bought one.
>
>Happy with small things
Hi Marshall
I bought a full **D**remel kit at a boot sale for 15 quid (£25) a
couple of years ago and it has been wonderful. The best use for me is
getting excess solder off difficult to reach internal joints...as well
as the wire wool for serious oxidation removal.
Jon
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jon.d2...@ukonline.co.uk
>We have a Dremel and I want to use it to remove really stubborn
tarnish
>from hard-to-polish places on sterling pieces. There's a
bewildering
>array of attachments for the Dremel, including a felt
buffing tip and
>a cloth buffing wheel. What do you think would work best, and should
I
>be using jeweler's rouge? Anyone know?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charleen
>
If it is only tarnish, then use a thin buffing **wheel** sideways on
and saturate this in rouge....however, I like to leave tarnish (not
severe oxidation)on silver pieces in decoration etc as this keeps the
age nicely.
Jon
Please remove the QAWHDX before replying by email.
jon.d2...@ukonline.co.uk
>>> be using jeweler's rouge? Anyone know?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Charleen
>>
some
>>guidelines as to it's use?
>> Tina - asking the dumb questions so you don't have to.
>_______
>
>You can order it from Eastwood in Malvern, Pa., although they are
some
>pricey. The phone is 800 345-1178, or you can go to their website
at
>
> www.eastwoodcompany.com
>
>I just looked, and they sell jewelers rouge for $6.99 a tube.
>
>Marshall
>>>>I hate to be really nerdy, but I have the photos and part numbers
for all Dremel fittings...sorry..
Jon
Please remove the VCPINL before replying by email.
no...@austinx.ibmx.comx
1) collet is worn
2) bit is undersized so collet can't grip it tightly.
3) collet nut is not tightened enough
4) wrong size collet
I would probably get a new collet and try that- If your bit is moving I would
stop using it as you don't want it to come out at that speed. BE CAREFUL!!!
John Noid
- real address (noid at austin dot ibm dot com)
Charleen Bunjiovianna
>
>If it is only tarnish, then use a thin buffing **wheel** sideways on
>and saturate this in rouge....however, I like to leave tarnish (not
>severe oxidation)on silver pieces in decoration etc as this keeps the
>age nicely.
I do, too, Jon. Thanks for the tip.
I've gotten a bunch of silver lately that has horrible spots on it that
won't come off with ordinary polishing...sort of like liver spots for silver.
It makes the silver look like it's sick, so I need to do something about it.
Here's an afflicted bonbon spoon:
http://www.diadem.com/gifs/november/liver-spots.jpg
I hear from my customers that some BIG eBay silver dealers are sending out
unsightly pieces like this and expecting the buyer to deal with it.
Charleen
Tina Sutherland
I just want to be at my next party and talk about "afflicted bonbon
spoons".
Tina ;-)
Charleen Bunjiovianna
>
>Charleen Bunjiovianna wrote:
>>
>> I've gotten a bunch of silver lately that has horrible spots on it that
>> won't come off with ordinary polishing...sort of like liver spots for silver.
>> It makes the silver look like it's sick, so I need to do something about it.
>> Here's an afflicted bonbon spoon:
>>
>> http://www.diadem.com/gifs/november/liver-spots.jpg
>
>spoons".
After that, you can ramble on about diseased potato forks and the dreaded
curse of the spotted asparagus tongs.
Charleen
JC
> After that, you can ramble on about diseased potato forks and the dreaded
> curse of the spotted asparagus tongs.
I'll throw my measled wick trimmer in the plague ware pile.
jc
Doris Bialas
that
everything in it would be working together
with everything else. This is the only thing
that I have problems with. I'll see if perhaps I do need a different
collet.
Thanks again. Doris
jdmiller
the andirons. We've tried most of the things suggested, but none seem
to cut through this particularly tough soot!!
Regarding a Dremel, my wife has had one for over 40 years; - it's collet
is broken and they no longer manufacture replacements of the sought
after size for that model (in fact, they wanted to trade my wife's
Dremel for a new one!). I broke down and bought her a new one a few
years ago. Now there's a switch, eh Marshall, husband buys tools for
wife!!! Actually she buys me lotsa tools, but for generally bigger
projects.
Would urge all to be very cautious in using a Dremel; we were advised by
a brass polisher to avoid very high speed buffers for brass -- OK for
gold and silver tho. And the Dremel is nothing if not high speed.
Also, FWIW, I saw polishing compound for silver in Loew's - next to the
buffing wheels.
--
JD Miller
Gaithersburg, MD
mcat
Bunjiovianna) wrote:
>In article <822lf4$o7c$1...@apple.news.easynet.net> jon.d2...@ukonline.co.uk writes:
>>
>>If it is only tarnish, then use a thin buffing **wheel** sideways on
>>and saturate this in rouge....however, I like to leave tarnish (not
>>severe oxidation)on silver pieces in decoration etc as this keeps the
>>age nicely.
>
>I do, too, Jon. Thanks for the tip.
>
>I've gotten a bunch of silver lately that has horrible spots on it that
>won't come off with ordinary polishing...sort of like liver spots for silver.
>It makes the silver look like it's sick, so I need to do something about it.
>Here's an afflicted bonbon spoon:
>
>http://www.diadem.com/gifs/november/liver-spots.jpg
>
>I hear from my customers that some BIG eBay silver dealers are sending out
>unsightly pieces like this and expecting the buyer to deal with it.
>
>Charleen
What causes those spots, and can they be removed? I have hubby's
grandma's sterling hand mirror which depicts lovers on a swing. It
has a couple of those spots, one is right under the girl's nose. Not
a nice effect. Do I need a Dremmel?
mcat
jon.d2...@ukonline.co.uk
>In article <822lf4$o7c$1...@apple.news.easynet.net>
jon.d2...@ukonline.co.uk writes:
>>
>>If it is only tarnish, then use a thin buffing **wheel** sideways
on
>>and saturate this in rouge....however, I like to leave tarnish
(not
>>severe oxidation)on silver pieces in decoration etc as this
keeps the
>>age nicely.
>
>I do, too, Jon. Thanks for the tip.
>
>I've gotten a bunch of silver lately that has horrible spots on it
that
>won't come off with ordinary polishing...sort of like liver spots for
silver.
>It makes the silver look like it's sick, so I need to do something
about it.
>Here's an afflicted bonbon spoon:
>
>http://www.diadem.com/gifs/november/liver-spots.jpg
>
>I hear from my customers that some BIG eBay silver dealers are
sending out
>unsightly pieces like this and expecting the buyer to deal with it.
>
>Charleen
>
Jon
Please remove the MFBNKV before replying by email.
Tina Sutherland
Charleen Bunjiovianna wrote:
>
> In article <38454F55...@uswest.net> Tina Sutherland <char...@uswest.net> writes:
> >
> >Charleen Bunjiovianna wrote:
> >>
> >> I've gotten a bunch of silver lately that has horrible spots on it that
> >> won't come off with ordinary polishing...sort of like liver spots for silver.
> >> It makes the silver look like it's sick, so I need to do something about it.
> >> Here's an afflicted bonbon spoon:
> >>
> >> http://www.diadem.com/gifs/november/liver-spots.jpg
> >
> > I just want to be at my next party and talk about "afflicted bonbon
> >spoons".
>
> After that, you can ramble on about diseased potato forks and the dreaded
> curse of the spotted asparagus tongs.
>
> Charleen
So I'm just wondering...do you get invited to many parties???
Tina ;-)
Charleen Bunjiovianna
>On 1 Dec 1999 16:12:03 GMT, char...@w6yx.stanford.edu (Charleen
>
>>I've gotten a bunch of silver lately that has horrible spots on it that
>>won't come off with ordinary polishing...sort of like liver spots for silver.
>>It makes the silver look like it's sick, so I need to do something about it.
>
>grandma's sterling hand mirror which depicts lovers on a swing. It
>has a couple of those spots, one is right under the girl's nose. Not
>a nice effect. Do I need a Dremmel?
If you could use it carefully (it takes some practice) maybe so. Dresser
sets are generally made out of very thin silver, so if you press too hard
trying to polish the spot out you could easily create a dent.
Charleen
Charleen Bunjiovianna
>
>Salt damage?...the worst type..
Could be salt damage, I guess, though I thought salt was corrosive on silver.
These are just dark discolorations, like measles.
Thanks,
Charleen
pwr...@pacbell.net
Charleen Bunjiovianna wrote:
We have a Dremel and I want to use it to remove really stubborn tarnish
> from hard-to-polish places on sterling pieces. There's a bewildering
> array of attachments for the Dremel, including a felt buffing tip and
> a cloth buffing wheel. What do you think would work best, and should I
> be using jeweler's rouge? Anyone know?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charleen
Charleen:
After I wore down all the little buffing wheels on my Foredom, I found that a Q-tip
fits just fine into the collet and it makes a great little buffer for small hard to
reach places. Use the kind with the rolled paper stick, not the plastic ones. You
can't beat the price, and each Q-tip gives you two little buffer ends (cut it in half
before chucking it in.) :-)
Rhiannon
Roy Dennis
like s**t to a shirt tail. Try a soft cloth dipped
in neat washing up liquid and rub gently, allow to
stand for a few minutes then wipe with a damp rag
and dry thoroughly.
And did I read somewhere that the 75 parts in a
1000 of copper added to make the "sterling"
standard silver can sometime migrate to the
surface in a less than perfectly prepared alloy
when the silver was manufactured? These
microscopic dots of silver will corrode and
tarnish.
I do not recommend buffing wheels large, small,
slow or fast.
I see lots of metalware ruined by
over-enthusiastic cleaning.
LOL
Roy
--
roy.d...@ukonline.co.uk
Educated customers are better customers
Charleen Bunjiovianna <char...@w6yx.stanford.edu>
wrote in message
news:826e5k$1v3$1...@nntp.Stanford.EDU...
Doris Bialas
here. You never know what info you can pick up.
I'll hve to write it down though , the brain doesn't function all the
time when I need it too! Thanks, Any more tips?
Doris
Cyanogirl
>Marshall
>Happy with small things
>
And do Young things tickle your fancy, too?
Cyn
======
Hurry, getting older by the minute.
pwr...@pacbell.net
Doris Bialas wrote:
Gee. Doris, I'm full of it...(oops, I think I mean full of THEM), but you
can see from a search of the archives or just ask anyone here, my methods
are often not recommended for marketable antiques. My stock in trade is
my ability to repair just about any electric/electronic or mechanical
device (as long as it doesn't involve software), without purchasing new
replacement parts. I often spend more than my time is worth creating
replacement parts just to show myself that I can do it. I'm also working
on cornering the West Coast market on raw teflon (a great material to
work with). Seriously OT. 8-))
Rhiannon
-----------------------------------
When life deals you lemons, throw in a grenade and run away.
Charleen Bunjiovianna
>
>Charleen:
>After I wore down all the little buffing wheels on my Foredom, I found that a Q-tip
>fits just fine into the collet and it makes a great little buffer for small hard to
>reach places. Use the kind with the rolled paper stick, not the plastic ones. You
>can't beat the price, and each Q-tip gives you two little buffer ends (cut it in half
>before chucking it in.) :-)
>Rhiannon
Great tip (so to speak!).
Thanks, Rhiannon.
I'm gonna try this one on that bonbon spoon.
Charleen
Doris Bialas
repairing, cleaning, caning or what ever else it
may need in order to become useful once again. I also try to use what I
have here
you'd be surprised how small a piece of wood has to be before I burn it
in the stove for heat. But I'm always looking for tips to make the work
easier.
I know what you men about making your own "parts" We have a farm and our
newest tractor is 1970 SAME so with the others you may not be able to
buy parts
so we have learned to rigit. It is very
satisfing to the soul to know you made
it work. Doris
Marshall Schuon
_______
I'm just waiting for you to catch up.
Marshall
Easily tickled