"Antique Care" brand oil
Catherine
some? A furniture maker told me today to get some to work some miracles on
an old, dry cabinet I have. I can't find it through Google. Thanks in
advance.
Kris Baker
"Catherine" <ce...@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:YbOdnWFEVLce04bZ...@adelphia.com...
What kind of finish does this cabinet have?
Kris
Catherine
long neglected. I wouldn't dream of refinishing it but it needs some TLC.
The furniture man said to rub "Antique Care" on the piece and let it absorb
overnight. He also suggested using it with superfine steel wool to help
remove paint flecks from a sloppy room painting. I just can't find that
"Antique Care" anywhere. He said he used to have it when he did refinishing.
"Kris Baker" <kris....@prodigyy.net> wrote in message
news:2iISf.20615$NS6....@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com...
Kris Baker
> It's an old mahogany piece with burlwood panels. It is very dry and has
> been long neglected. I wouldn't dream of refinishing it but it needs some
> TLC. The furniture man said to rub "Antique Care" on the piece and let it
> absorb overnight. He also suggested using it with superfine steel wool to
> help remove paint flecks from a sloppy room painting. I just can't find
> that "Antique Care" anywhere. He said he used to have it when he did
> refinishing.
Your piece needs refinishing; oil is just going to sit on the surface
of whatever finish is there, and penetrate into the wood (and lift
the finish even further) where there's none. The theory of putitng
a hard finish on furniture is to *keep* things from penetrating. If
your piece is an oil-type finish, you can use Liquid Gold or any
other "furniture oil"....but I'd look carefully at that finish, first.
Others may disagree, so stay tuned.
Kris
Catherine
this particular piece -- that the value would be destroyed. It's just an old
hand-rubbed piece. If anyone knows of this "Antique Care" treatment please
let me know. Kind regards.
Kris Baker
>I was told by two different appraisers to never even consider refinishing
>this particular piece -- that the value would be destroyed. It's just an
>old hand-rubbed piece. If anyone knows of this "Antique Care" treatment
>please let me know. Kind regards.
Do you have an image of it, that you could put on your webspace?
We'll be glad to look at the picture; all we need is the URL.
Refinishing is a bad thing for an extremely valuable piece of
early furniture, but a good thing for the typical piece.
Kris
Catherine
whether or not to refinish -- given the advice of one furniture maker and
two different antiques appraisers that it should *never* be refinished I'm
taking their word for it. . It is a valuable old piece with great market
value and even greater family value.
I just want to take care of it and the furniture maker (antique
reproductions) who was a former antiques refinisher said the "Antique Care"
treatment was just the thing. I really am just trying to find out if it's
made any longer and if so where to find it.
"Kris Baker" <kris....@prodigyy.net> wrote in message
news:01JSf.20624$NS6....@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com...
Catherine
Care if anyone else is interested. It's a "beeswax dressing."
"Catherine" <ce...@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:iNWdndgUH_OX_YbZ...@adelphia.com...
Nate
> Nevermind -- I found it online .. finally! It's called Hagerty Antique
> Care if anyone else is interested. It's a "beeswax dressing."
>
>
Aha. I went searching and came across about a hundred pages on "antique
care", one even suggested submerging your antiques in a bath of
Thompson's water seal to restore the finish ...
-Brent
Kris Baker
> Nevermind -- I found it online .. finally! It's called Hagerty Antique
> Care if anyone else is interested. It's a "beeswax dressing."
Wax is good, as long as it doesn't contain oil. But all bees
wax is the same, so you can go to Home Depot and find
what you're looking for.
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/roadshow/tips/woodfinish/
The one addition to stained wood that Karen and conservators don't mind is
wax. "Wax creates a protective surface on the piece," says the Skinner
executive. "When you put a sweating glass on a waxed table you don't get a
ring." Wax is also easy to remove, a feature that all furniture conservators
appreciate. Karen recommends solid waxes, such as paste wax, butcher's wax
or even French polish, because these all contain bees' wax. Karen recommends
you stay away from liquid waxes though, because they often have the damaging
oils as an additional ingredient.
Kris
t-...@webemails.com
"antique
care", one even suggested submerging your antiques in a bath of
Thompson's water seal to restore the finish ...
--------------------
;)
T
Kris Baker
<t-...@webemails.com> wrote in message
news:1142668149....@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
That crap didn't even help our redwood deck. Looked nice for a week,
though....then stayed sticky.
Kris
Andy Dingley
wrote:
>Does anyone know if "Antique Care" is still made and if so how I can find
>some?
No, I don't, and I don't care. Not finding it has probaby save you doing
something you shouldn't.
>an old, dry cabinet I have.
Wood doesn't "dry out" (n this sense) so you don't need to "feed" the
wood with oil. Ask someone who understands furniture finishing for
advice, not some who recommends miracle products.
What was the old finish ? What is wrong with the old finish ? It's
_meant_ to be dry, so you don't need to go around wetting it. f you mean
it looks dull and scuffed, then there are oily finishes that will make
this look shiny again, but generally they're a short-term minor
improvement and a bad idea longer term. If you have to slather something
on it, a wax is usually less troublesome than an oil.
Don't use the "salad dressing" recipe.
To sort it out properly, you really need to know what the old finish
was.
Andy Dingley
wrote:
>Wax is good, as long as it doesn't contain oil.
So long as it doesn't contain a drying oil. A non-drying oil won't
cause these problems
> But all bees
>wax is the same, so you can go to Home Depot and find
>what you're looking for.
No, it isn't all the same.
Beeswax is hard and sticky and can't be applied to anything other than
turned work in the lathe. To make it into a usable polish you have to
soften it with something and there are a great many recipes for doing
this, some good, some bad.
A good beeswax polish is beeswax and turpentine (real turpentine). An
easier polish to use is a creamed beeswax, with ammonia. However this
can be a bad idea to use over some shellac / french polish finishes or
around brassware. A Home Despot "beeswax polish" could quite easily
contain petroleum spirits or even silicones.
There is no "pure beeswax" polish. If it's pure, you can't use it. If it
was made with "pure beeswax", then it stopped being pure when you mixed
it.