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Klutz needs rescue

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Nelson

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Nov 9, 2009, 12:59:14 AM11/9/09
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That'd be me. A number of years ago I started recapping a five tuber.
But after inadvertently removing one terminal from a heavily waxed
cardboard coil form, I put it away 'til I could make a good repair.
It's one of those forms about half an inch in diameter with the three
terminals spaced around the end. The "rivetted" (for want of a better
term) terminal pulled out of the wax soaked cardboard when I got too
rough unwrapping the cap lead. The coil is intact and its lead is
unbroken.
Anybody come up with an elegant repair for that kind of thing?
Nelson

Engineer

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Nov 9, 2009, 12:52:11 PM11/9/09
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You might try drilling a small hole in the end of the coil form
between the good tags and the damaged one. Wrap a couple of turns of
about 22 gauge tinned copper wire though it and around the form end
leaving a "tag of wire" to solder onto - don't let it cut though the
wax-soaked cardboard. Solder the coil end wire to it - you may need
to very carefully extend this with fine wire... tricky, but can be
done.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Roger

Unrevealed Source

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Nov 10, 2009, 6:25:24 PM11/10/09
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"Nelson" <ngi...@mts.net> wrote in message
news:TcOJm.6590$Sw5....@newsfe16.iad...


If I'm understanding this correctly, I just addressed this exact same thing
last night, except that in my case the terminal hadn't come completely out
but was extremely loose in the hole and ready to fall out.

I used Goop. Just secure the terminal in the hole (I used a small piece of
tape on the outside) and put a blob of Goop on the inside, over the rivets
and overflowing a little onto the form. Solid as a rock

Nelson

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Nov 11, 2009, 2:09:09 AM11/11/09
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"Unrevealed Source" <unreveal...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:2EmKm.19370$X01....@newsfe07.iad...
Thanks guys!
I've saved these suggestions, and one I got offlist for future
reference, as
I get around to this project.
You got my thinking moving in the right direction!
Nelson

MarkO

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Nov 12, 2009, 9:47:06 PM11/12/09
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On Nov 11, 2:09 am, "Nelson" <ngi...@mts.net> wrote:
> "Unrevealed Source" <unrevealed_sou...@nospam.com> wrote in message

This is why it doesnt pay to unwrap capacitor leads! CLIP them off
about 1/2" away, scrape the lead clean and put a hook on it , then
attach your new cap to that. SO much faster and safer.

Mark Oppat
www.oldradioparts.net

Charlie Carothers

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Nov 12, 2009, 11:19:58 PM11/12/09
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I may need my flame shields, but I think just solder alone is strong
enough. The hooks are nice, but not absolutely needed. I repaired even
car radios that way for several years and never had a callback due to a
failed solder joint. I would just clean the leads, make sure they
overlapped about 1/4 inch and that the solder flowed well around both
wires. I'll admit I probably would have singed my fingers less had I
formed hooks, and I'll also admit I'm more likely to do it Mark's way
these days - the mechanical stability is just so much nicer to work with. :)
Later,
Charlie C.

Jeffrey D Angus

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Nov 13, 2009, 9:03:56 AM11/13/09
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Name #2 Removed wrote:
>> Name #1 Removed:
>> This is why it doesnt pay to unwrap capacitor leads! CLIP them off
>> about 1/2" away, scrape the lead clean and put a hook on it , then
>> attach your new cap to that. SO much faster and safer.
>>
>>
> I may need my flame shields, but I think just solder alone is strong
> enough. The hooks are nice, but not absolutely needed. I repaired even
> car radios that way for several years and never had a callback due to a
> failed solder joint.

A hack will always have a justification for shoddy workmanship.

If you've been doing this for "That long" there is really no
excuse for the lack of skill to do it correctly.

Jeff


--
�Egotism is the anesthetic that dulls the pain of stupidity.�
Frank Leahy, Head coach, Notre Dame 1941-1954

http://www.stay-connect.com

Unrevealed Source

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Nov 13, 2009, 7:18:26 PM11/13/09
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"Charlie Carothers" <obfuscate...@tx.rr.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:hdimpg$ncg$1...@news.eternal-september.org...

> I may need my flame shields, but I think just solder alone is strong
> enough. The hooks are nice, but not absolutely needed. I repaired even
> car radios that way for several years and never had a callback due to a
> failed solder joint. I would just clean the leads, make sure they
> overlapped about 1/4 inch and that the solder flowed well around both
> wires. I'll admit I probably would have singed my fingers less had I
> formed hooks, and I'll also admit I'm more likely to do it Mark's way
> these days - the mechanical stability is just so much nicer to work with.
> :)
> Later,
> Charlie C.
>

I agree that solder-only should be strong enough, but the hook and
mechanical connection makes it much easier to solder.


Ken G.

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Nov 15, 2009, 2:06:20 PM11/15/09
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I would make hooks too . But Look at all the german radios with only
solder holding parts . They survived .

John Stone

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Nov 15, 2009, 2:37:25 PM11/15/09
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On 11/15/09 1:06 PM, in article
6395-4B00...@storefull-3253.bay.webtv.net, "Ken G."
<good...@webtv.net> wrote:

> I would make hooks too . But Look at all the german radios with only
> solder holding parts . They survived .
>

?? Which ones are those? The leads might not be wrapped around a terminal 3
times, but all the German sets I've worked on have the leads going through
terminal holes, and at least bent over to hold them in place. BTW, anything
with a circuit board falls into he category of only solder holding parts.

Pete Bertini

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Nov 15, 2009, 2:52:39 PM11/15/09
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A small 2-56 screw and nut, or 4-40 hardware, with
washers and a new (or the old) solder lug can be
attached to the torn out hole. Once the flat washers
compress on the waxed cardboard, they will grip
and hold. Done it many times in the past.

Pete


Jeffrey D Angus

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Nov 15, 2009, 5:47:14 PM11/15/09
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Ken G. wrote:

[ snip ]

And another hack heard from.

Charlie Carothers

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Nov 17, 2009, 9:03:53 PM11/17/09
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Yeah, I agree. I was only just out of high school at the time and still
had a _lot_ to learn. I'm really pretty amazed I ever managed to
actually fix anything, given that I had no training and my only mentor
was the same age as I was.
Later,
Charlie C.

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