Counted Cross Stitch FAQ (Part 1 of 4)
Kathleen M. Dyer
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Part 1 of 4 - Counted Cross Stitch Frequently Asked Questions version 1.11
Hello, all.
As there was very little time to work on the FAQ this past month, I decided
to limit the changes to corrections and updates of existing entries. To all
of you who sent me new information--thanks, and don't fear. I have it all
saved, and will include it in future versions of the FAQ.
Changes from version 1.10 to version 1.11:
PART 3
~ Section "7.1 Ordering Supplies By Mail and Phone" - Corrections, updates
~ Section "8.1 Magazines" - Update
~ Section "10.2 Computer Software For Cross Stitch" - Update
~ Section "11.1 Competitions and Exhibitions" - Update
~ Section "12.2 Pomegranate Guild of Judaic Needlework" - Update
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
COUNTED CROSS STITCH
Frequently Asked Questions
For the Internet's
Usenet News Group
rec.crafts.textiles.needlework
Version 1.11
March 20, 1995
Kathleen M. Dyer
kd...@crl.com
Copyright (c) 1994, 1995 Kathleen M. Dyer.
Permission is granted to redistribute this article in its
entirety for noncommercial use provided that this copyright
notice is not removed or altered. No portion of this work
may be sold, either by itself or as part of a larger work,
without the express written permission of the author.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
PART 1
------
About This FAQ
1. Introduction
2. A Cross Stitch Project From Start to Finish
2.1 Selecting the Fabric - Aida vs. Linen
2.2 Selecting the Thread/Fiber
When You Might Want to Select Your Own Thread
Changing Skin and Hair Tones
2.3 Preparing the Fabric
2.4 Setting the Floss Color
2.5 Hoop or Hand?
2.6 Making the X
2.7 Fractional Stitches
2.8 Stitching On Linens and Evenweaves
2.9 Where to Start Stitching
2.10 Number of Strands
2.11 The "Right" End of the Floss
2.12 Cutting the Floss
2.13 How to Start the Thread
Running Under
Loop Method
Knotless Waste Knot
Waste Knot
2.14 Carrying Threads Over
2.15 How to Keep the Thread From Twisting and Knotting
2.16 How to End the Thread
2.17 Using Variegated Floss
2.18 Where Am I?
2.19 Backstitching
2.20 Beads
2.21 Signing and Dating
2.22 Cleaning and Storing
2.23 Mounting, Matting and Framing
PART 2
-------
3. Equipment
3.1 Needles
Needle Size
Needle Finish
3.2 Needle Control
3.3 Hoops, Scroll Bars and Such
Stands
Hoops
Scroll Bars
Q-Snaps
Stretcher Bars
3.4 Magnifiers and Lamps
4. Selling - Original Designs or Finished Products
4.1 Comments on Selling Finished Products
4.2 Craft Business Mailing List
4.3 DMC Editorial Project Bank
4.4 Publishing Designs in Magazines
5. Entering Competitions
6. Other Stitching Techniques
6.1 Assisi Work
6.2 Blackwork
6.3 Counted Thread Work
6.4 Drawn Thread Work
6.5 Duplicate Stitch
6.6 Hardanger Embroidery
6.7 Pulled Thread Work
6.8 Shadow Embroidery
6.9 Waste Canvas
6.10 Silk Gauze
PART 3
-------
7. Finding Supplies
7.1 Ordering Supplies By Mail and Phone
7.2 Crafts Information Service
7.3 Needlework Stores
7.4 Finding Charts
8. Books, Magazines and Videotapes
8.1 Magazines
8.2 Magazine Index
8.3 Books and Pamphlets
8.4 Videotapes
9. Creating Your Own Charts
9.1 From a Photo - Do It Yourself
9.2 From a Photo - Mail It Off
9.3 Use a Computer - Original Design or From a Photo
10. Computers and Cross Stitch
10.1 Discussion Groups and BBS's
10.2 Computer Software For Cross Stitch
11. Activities and Events
11.1 Competitions and Exhibitions
11.2 International Cross Stitch Round Robin
11.3 The Spirit of Cross Stitch Festival
11.4 The Creative Festival
11.5 I Love Needlework Fair
11.6 Creative Sewing & Needlework Festival and Conference
12. Organizations
12.1 EGA - Embroiderer's Guild of America
12.2 Pomegranate Guild of Judaic Needlework
12.3 American Needlepoint Guild
12.4 Embroiderers' Guild
12.5 Embroiderers' Association of Canada
PART 4 - Appendices
--------------------
A. Fabrics
A.1 Types of Evenweaves
100% Cottons
Cotton Blends
100% Linens
Linen Blends
Miscellaneous Blends
Afghan Fabrics
A.2 Fabric Colors Compared to DMC
B. Floss and Fibers
B.1 Fibers to Use Other Than Floss
B.2 Calculating the Amount of Floss
B.3 Color Names/Conversion - DMC/Coats/Anchor/Marlette/Medicis/Au Ver...
B.4 Color Names/Conversion - Madeira/Au Ver A Soie/DMC
B.5 DMC Organized By Color Family
B.6 Conversion - Old J&P Coates to Other
==============================================================================
About This FAQ
==============================================================================
Welcome to the "Counted Cross Stitch Frequently Asked Questions" document for
the Usenet news group rec.crafts.textiles.needlework on the Internet.
Although this document is focused on counted cross stitch, people who do other
forms of needlework may still find some useful information in it. The lists
of suppliers and magazines include several that deal with many types of
embroidery.
The hints and tips contained here have been collected from the many people who
have been kind enough to share their wisdom with the net. In fact, this is
an attempt to represent the collective wisdom of the stitchers who post to
rec.crafts.textiles.needlework.
Although efforts are made to make sure that the information in this FAQ is
correct, this document is provided as is, with no warranties or guarantees of
any kind either expressed or implied. No endorsement or value judgement is
expressed or implied.
Please send comments and corrections to me.
Kathleen M. Dyer
<kd...@crl.com> (home, preferred address)
<kd...@netcom.com> (home, second choice address)
<kd...@llnl.gov> (work, if all other addresses bounce)
----------------------
Where to Find the FAQ
----------------------
If you have a copy of the FAQ that is over a month old, it may be out-of-date.
The latest version is available in the following ways.
The Counted Cross Stitch FAQ is posted around the 15th of each month to the
newsgroups rec.crafts.textiles.needlework, news.answers and rec.answers.
Part 3 is available in HTML format for use with WWW browsers at the Counted
Cross Stitch WWW Home Page:
<ftp://ftp.crl.com/users/ro/kdyer/xstitch.html>
Plain text versions of the entire FAQ are available:
By WWW at the Counted Cross Stitch WWW Home Page:
<ftp://ftp.crl.com/users/ro/kdyer/xstitch.html>
Anonymous ftp at ftp.crl.com:
<ftp://ftp.crl.com/users/ro/kdyer/faq/xstitch_faq.1>
<ftp://ftp.crl.com/users/ro/kdyer/faq/xstitch_faq.2>
<ftp://ftp.crl.com/users/ro/kdyer/faq/xstitch_faq.3>
<ftp://ftp.crl.com/users/ro/kdyer/faq/xstitch_faq.4>
Anonymous ftp at the official Usenet FAQ archive:
<ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.answers/crafts/cross-stitch/part1>
<ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.answers/crafts/cross-stitch/part2>
<ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.answers/crafts/cross-stitch/part3>
<ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.answers/crafts/cross-stitch/part4>
Email from the mail server at the official Usenet FAQ archive. Send email
to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with a blank subject line and the following
lines in the body:
send usenet/rec.answers/crafts/cross-stitch/part1
send usenet/rec.answers/crafts/cross-stitch/part2
send usenet/rec.answers/crafts/cross-stitch/part3
send usenet/rec.answers/crafts/cross-stitch/part4
If all other avenues fail, I am perfectly happy to email the FAQ to anyone who
requests it. It will be sent in four sections totaling over 50 pages. Just
send email to me (kd...@crl.com) requesting a copy.
Please note that the ftp.crl.com server which allows you to access both the
Counted Cross Stitch WWW Home Page and the archive can become quite busy. If
you have trouble connecting, try again in a few minutes.
----------
Thank You
----------
Thanks to the folks who have given permission for their messages and postings
to be quoted directly. The names are given where quoted.
Special thanks to those people who read the draft of this document for their
time, care and suggestions--
Lisa Balbes <bal...@osiris.rti.org>
Caren B Pelletier <ca...@engin.umich.edu>
Heather Keal <G390...@EXODUS.VALPO.EDU>
Gillian Cannon <gil...@kaiwan.com>
Amelia J. Scott-Piner <ji...@super.org>
Janice Liedl <jli...@nickel.laurentian.ca>
Liz Bell <lb...@austin.ibm.com>
Mary Otto <Mary.Ri...@att.com>
Patty Andersen <pand...@silver.sdsmt.edu>
Marina Salume <quil...@marny.Corp.Sun.COM>
Randy Freeman <ran...@verifone.com>
Stella Nemeth <stella...@solar.org>
==============================================================================
1. Introduction
==============================================================================
Counted cross stitch has few, if any, rules. The main one is to enjoy
yourself. You may follow or ignore any of the tips listed in this FAQ and
still be a "real" cross stitcher.
The first part of this document is a tutorial. The rest is essentially a
collection of lists--catalogs, events, floss conversion, etc.
Any commercial products or services are listed as a courtesy to the reader.
No endorsement or value judgement is expressed or implied.
==============================================================================
2. A Cross Stitch Project From Start to Finish
==============================================================================
-------------------------------------------
2.1 Selecting the Fabric - Aida vs. Linen
-------------------------------------------
Generally, people first learn to do counted cross stitch on aida and learn to
stitch on linen as they become more experienced. Judging by comments in
this news group, most stitchers who know how to work on linen wouldn't go back
to aida under any condition. As always though, this is a matter of personal
preference. Some very experienced stitchers prefer aida.
First, the traditional rule--stitch on aida using a hoop and stitch on linen
"in the hand". In actual practice, people do whatever works best for them.
See section "2.5 Hoop or Hand?" for a discussion of the "in-the-hand vs.
in-a-hoop" debate. See section "3.3 Hoops, Scroll Bars and Such" for more
information on the equipment itself.
Linen isn't as stiff as aida. This can be a plus or minus, depending on your
own preferences. The difference in stiffness isn't usually a factor if the
fabric is worked in scroll bars or stretcher bars.
Aida is worked with one X per square, while linen is generally worked over two
threads. This means that a 28 count (28 threads per inch) linen produces the
same size picture as a 14 count (14 squares per inch) aida. See section
"2.8 Stitching On Linens and Evenweaves" for a more detailed explanation of
stitching on linen.
Fractional stitches (1/4 and 3/4) can be much easier to do on linen. On aida,
the needle needs to punch through the middle of the little square in order to
complete the stitch. This can made somewhat easier by using a small sized
needle (#26). No "punching through" is needed on linen, as the needle simply
goes between the two threads. See section "2.7 Fractional Stitches" for a
more detailed explanation of fractional stitches.
Some people find it easier to see the holes on linen while stitching, others
find the aida easier.
The "look" of the cloth in the background can also be a consideration when
selecting a fabric. Both texture and color should be considered.
Aida is generally less expensive. Whether you choose to work on aida or on
linen, always buy the best quality cloth you can afford. The amount of time
invested in a cross stitch project can be quite large, and is far more
valuable than a small savings up front. Also make sure to know the fiber
content and if the fabric requires any special care. See section "A.2 Types
of Evenweaves" for information on fiber content.
A possible source of high quality but inexpensive linen is at antique shops.
You may be able to find cloth with a hand tatted or hand crocheted edge,
allowing you to do a joint project with someone who isn't alive today.
--------------------------------
2.2 Selecting the Thread/Fiber
--------------------------------
When You Might Want to Select Your Own Thread
---------------------------------------------
Commercial charts suggest which type and color of thread to use. Kits even
supply the thread for you. However, there are times when you want to select
the thread yourself.
Situation: The floss supplied in a kit is of poor quality.
If you are lucky, the chart supplied with the kit lists color numbers and
a brand name. This doesn't happen very often, at least with kits that
supply ugly floss. If there is no list, try to get a color card for one of
the big-name brands of floss such as DMC or Anchor. Look for one which
includes thread samples. Match the colors from the kit with the colors on
the card as carefully as you can. Do it in natural light, if possible.
Write down the numbers of the colors you need on the chart next to the
correct symbol. Buy whatever floss you don't have on hand and start
stitching! If you already started the picture with the old floss, rip it
out or get new cloth and START OVER. If you can't find a color card, take
the bad floss with you to your local craft store and do the matching there.
Be careful, because the lighting in most stores can make the colors look
wrong.
Situation: You created the chart yourself.
If you are experienced enough to create your own chart, you are probably
experienced enough to select fibers. Consider using the many new types of
fibers which are now available, such as metallics and hand painted silks.
See section "B.1 Fibers to Use Other Than Floss" for some hints.
Always keep in mind the final use of whatever you are stitching. For
example, don't use a non-colorfast silk for a baby's bib.
Situation: You want to use a different brand of floss than suggested.
Some charts supply color number information for two or three manufacturers'
floss. If not, try to find a floss conversion chart. Commercial ones are
available. Even better, there is a "DMC-Anchor-J&P Coats" conversion chart
in this FAQ. Look for section "B.3 Color Names/Conversion -
DMC/Coats/Anchor/Marlette/Medicis/Au Ver A Soie".
Situation: You want a different texture or finish.
Consider using the many new types of fibers which are now available, such
as metallics and hand painted silks. See section "B.1 Fibers to Use Other
Than Floss" for some hints.
Always keep in mind the final use of whatever you are stitching. For
example, don't use a non-colorfast silk for a baby's bib.
Situation: You want to use different colors than suggested.
If it is a geometric design or a simple picture with no shading, replace
the colors anyway you like. More care must be taken for complex pictures.
Compare the values of the old set of colors and the new set to make sure
they are the same. You can do this by looking at the threads through red
glass or cellophane, or by photocopying them in black-and-white.
Changing Skin and Hair Tones
----------------------------
At times, you may want to change the skin and/or hair colors of a figure in a
chart to make it look more like a particular individual. Although some charts
print alternate floss colors, this is still rare. The _type_ of chart most
likely to give multiple colors for hair and skin is one with a wedding theme.
Marilyn Leavitt-Imblum, the designer of the Lavender & Lace, Butternut Road,
and Told in a Garden designs, has alternative skin colors on some designs.
Lists for Asian, African American and Native American are also available from
her offices in Maine.
Included below, with the very kind permission of Marilyn Leavitt-Imblum, is a
quote from a post she made to rec.crafts.textiles.needlework...
Keep in mind that you are going from light to dark, this is a color range.
Going up or down the scale will lighten or darken the range. DMC
African American:
Skin...... - 3772
+ 632
E 632+898
Lips in 356 and outline features in the 632+898 blend
Eyes and brows are outlined in 3371
Hair... Most designs have 4-6 hair shades...the darkest 2-3 shades
I make 310 black. Then use 3371 for one or two shades and
the lightest symbol with 3031
Native American
Skin....light to dark
950
3773
407
3772
632
Hair...light to dark
3781
3031
3371
310
By finding the colors asked for on a design and laying them out light to
dark you can match the shades you want to replace them with. Make a new
legend for your replacement colors.
--------------------------
2.3 Preparing the Fabric
--------------------------
The following suggestions are quite conservative and cautious. It seems
safest to list many things that a stitcher might want to be aware of. You are
then free to use or ignore whatever you choose.
Trim off any selvage edges.
Cut the fabric to size for the project. Allow an extra 3" to 4" on _each_
edge.
Pre-rinse very dark or very red fabrics to make sure the color will not run.
Rinse until the water is clear.
If there are folds, make sure they will come out. Rinse and/or press the
fabric.
Prepare the edges to keep them from fraying. Some of the options:
~ Use a sewing machine to do a zigzag stitch.
~ Use a serger to serge the edges.
~ Fold the edge of the cloth over and baste it by hand.
~ Do a whipstitch by hand, to overcast the edges.
~ Use Fraycheck or masking tape, but then allow another half inch (1/2")
all the way around so you can cut off the chemically tainted fabric when
you are through stitching. Chemicals of any sort may cause deterioration
years later.
-----------------------------
2.4 Setting the Floss Color
-----------------------------
Floss is much more colorfast than it used to be, but some people prefer to be
very cautious when using black or dark colors in heirloom quality projects.
Below are a couple of postings about the topic.
From: Gillian Cannon <gillian...@solar.org>...
I take my blacks and dark reds, purples, etc., and put rubber bands where
the paper bands are, and shake the skein in a glass of water that I've put
a quarter of a teaspoon of white vinegar or salt in so I can set the
colors. Rinse in clear water after shaking in the mixture until it runs
clear, then I lay the skein (still in the rubber band wrapping) on top of a
thick terry towel, then roll and press to remove the extra water. I then
just lay it on a surface until it dries. It's really easy and eliminates a
lot of problems.
From: Mary Rita Otto <mo...@cbnewsf.cb.att.com>...
...You want to set the color on the floss before you start the piece. This
is only necessary for some of the colors - most will not bleed. But here is
the procedure.
Take the floss out of the skein wrappers. Wet it with cool water. Lay it
on a white paper towel to dry. If it is going to bleed/run that will be
evident on the paper towel. If it does show signs of running, then rinse
it with cool running water until the running stops and the paper towel it
is set on shows no further signs of color.
Soak the rinsed floss in 1 QT cool water and 1/4 cup white vinegar. Let it
soak for about 20 minutes. Rinse again with cool water and dry on a paper
towel.
If you have a finished piece you should exercise caution when first washing
the piece. Rinse the piece with clear water and watch for signs of
running. If a color does run, continue to rinse the piece in cool running
water until the bleeding stops and the water runs clear.
In most cases, it is not necessary to use the vinegar water soak. I
consulted several expert stitchers and teachers on this, and they all
admitted that they think the soaking is a waste of time, and just deal with
the bleeding with the cool water rinse at wash time. The quality of dyes
used currently is very good, and colors running is very uncommon.
I only do a rinse and soak for heirloom quality work using intense red
colors (like DMC 666). I've never had a problem with other colors, or a
serious problem with the red, either. But that may vary with the quality
of the local water supply.
The extremely cautious will avoid even the vinegar soak, opting instead for
only the cool water rinse. This is done to ensure that absolutely no
vinegar residue is left to damage the floss.
-------------------
2.5 Hoop or Hand?
-------------------
First, the traditional rule--stitch on aida using a hoop and stitch on linen
"in the hand". In actual practice, people do whatever works best for them.
Most who like their fabric taut _do_ tend to avoid hoops in favor of scroll
bars or stretcher bars when working on linen, as hoops may damage the fabric
or leave marks. See section "3.3 Hoops, Scroll Bars and Such" for more
information on the equipment itself. See section "2.8 Stitching On Linens and
Evenweaves" for a more detailed explanation of stitching on linen.
For the purpose of this discussion, let's use the word "bars" to refer to all
those things which can be used to hold the fabric taut--hoops, stretcher bars,
scroll bars and Q-Snaps.
Some people find it easier to control the tension of their thread with one
method, some find it easier with the other. The most important thing to
remember is to do what works best for you.
Advantages and Disadvantages of "in the hand":
~ Stitching can be done with the sewing method, which requires less motion
on the part of the stitcher than the stab method. The sewing method can
be much faster.
~ No worries about squashing existing stitches or leaving hoop marks.
~ The project is much easier to transport without the weight and bulk of
bars.
~ Some people like the feel of the fabric in their hand. It's part of
the enjoyment.
~ Some people have trouble controlling fabric and floss without bars.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Bars:
~ Can keep the fabric taut, for those who prefer this. They can be used
with the fabric loose, for those who like the sewing method.
~ More of the fabric is immediately visible than if it were draped over a
hand.
~ Most bars can be used with lap stands or floor stands. The stands allow
"two handed stitching", where one hand is kept above and one hand below
the project. Good quality stands are like fine furniture, and keep the
current project on display.
~ People who have trouble holding projects for long periods of time also
may find stands useful--they help avoid or reduce effects from tendonitis,
arthritis and cramping.
~ Hoops can distort existing stitches and leave marks on the fabric. These
problems can be avoided by using stretcher bars, scroll bars and Q-Snaps.
------------------
2.6 Making the X
------------------
One of the few rules in counted cross stitch is that all the stitches should
go in the same direction. It doesn't matter if the bottom half goes "/" and
the top goes "\", or vice versa. Just make sure that _every_ stitch in the
project is done the same way. (And to be perfectly honest, there are
exceptions to this rule, such as 3/4 stitches.)
The direction a person first learns to stitch seems to be a regional thing.
The only reason it _might_ be of importance is if you choose to do a very
complex chart from another country. Some complex charts with many fractional
stitches or other embroidery stitches exhibit a subtle bias, assuming that the
X's will be done a particular direction.
Stitchers who use the traditional method complete each X as they go:
XXXXXXXX
Stitchers who use the Danish method do the bottom stitches first, and complete
the X's as they return:
/////XXX
Many people use a mix of the two methods. They may use the Danish method for
most stitches, but do the occasional isolated stitch as a complete X. Another
school recommends doing rows with the Danish method and columns with the
traditional method. This causes the thread on the back to make vertical
lines.
Apparently, some antique samplers which were done in the traditional method
survive today because the X's hold the fabric together. The "one-X-at-a-time"
approach works well when stitching over one thread, rather than the usual two,
as it helps stop the thread from disappearing behind the fabric.
Many people find the Danish method to be faster, and to result in less
confusion about current location.
Choose a method which you like, preferably one which results in neat backs.
While a neat back isn't _required_ for a good looking front, it usually helps.
-------------------------
2.7 Fractional Stitches
-------------------------
Fractional stitches (1/4, 1/2 and 3/4) are simply cross stitches with missing
arms. They are used to provide a rounded look to a picture (1/4 and 3/4), or
an airy look (1/2).
Fractional stitches (1/4 and 3/4) can be much easier to do on linen. On aida,
the needle needs to punch through the middle of the little square in order to
complete the stitch. This can made somewhat easier by using a small sized
needle (#26). No "punching through" is needed on linen, as the needle simply
goes between the two threads.
A 1/4 stitch is done by coming up from one corner of the square and going down
in the center.
A 3/4 stitch is most often done by stitching the short arm first, like a
quarter stitch. It is completed with a 1/2 stitch to make the other two arms.
Note that this is an exception to the rule that all stitches must go in the
same direction, as the long arm of the 3/4 stitch may go either "/" or "\".
There are some occasions where people choose to do the 1/2 stitch first and
anchor it down with the 1/4 stitch, in order to achieve a certain effect.
Frequently, a 1/4 stitch and a 3/4 stitch share a single square. This means
that a decision is left up to the stitcher. Which side is the 1/4 and which
the 3/4?
As in just about every other area, this is up to you. Here are some different
methods. Each provides its own distinct look.
~ If there is a backstitch dividing the two sides, stitch two 1/4 stitches
and let the backstitch divide them.
~ Determine which side is in the foreground of the picture, and make that
side the 3/4 stitch. (An exception might be made for very small
details.) The backstitch, if any, can lie on top of or outside of the
long arm.
~ If neither side is in the foreground, make the 1/4 stitch in whichever of
the two colors "gets there" first. Fill in the 3/4 stitch as you come by
with the second color.
~ Make two 3/4 stitches.
Sometimes a pattern calls for an entire area to be filled with 1/2 stitches
rather than full cross stitches. If there are no definite instructions, it is
up to you to decide which direction the 1/2 stitches should go--the same as
the bottom half of a full cross stitch or the same as the top half. "Bottom"
half stitches are more intuitive for some people. "Top" half stitches tend to
blend into the background more, which might be the effect you want. Sometimes
the picture itself makes a direction obvious. For example, 1/2 stitches used
to represent feathers in a wing should probably slant the way the feathers
themselves would.
----------------------------------------
2.8 Stitching on Linens and Evenweaves
----------------------------------------
People tend to use the terms "linen" and "evenweave" interchangeably in casual
discussions. Evenweave fabrics are composed of linen, cotton, man-made fibers
and blends. To save typing, I'll use "linen" below to mean both linen and
evenweave.
For a look at the "aida vs. linen" debate, see section "2.1 Selecting the
Fabric - Aida vs. Linen." For information on the fiber content of
different fabrics, see section "A.2 Types of Evenweaves."
First, the traditional rule--stitch on aida using a hoop and stitch on linen
"in the hand". In actual practice, people do whatever works best for them.
See section "2.5 Hoop or Hand?" for a discussion of the "in-the-hand vs.
in-a-hoop" debate. See section "3.3 Hoops, Scroll Bars and Such" for more
information on the equipment itself.
Linen is generally worked "over two" threads. This means that a 28 count (28
threads per inch) linen produces the same size picture as a 14 count (14
squares per inch) aida.
Experienced stitchers of linen recommend starting next to a vertical thread.
This is easier to explain using a picture.
If you start your X's like "/", then...
| | | | Y
--------------| |---
--------------| |---
| | | |
| | | |
| | | | Where X means start here!
| | | |
| | | |
-----| |------------
-----| |------------
X | | | |
| | | |
(ASCII art adapted from a post by
Janice Liedl <jli...@nickel.laurentian.ca>)
Come up at X and go down at Y (or vice versa). If you start your X's the
other way, like "\", then...
X | | | |
-----| |------------
-----| |------------
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
--------------| |---
--------------| |---
| | | | Y
| | | |
Reasons for starting next to a vertical thread:
~ Starting next to a vertical thread makes it easy to tell when you have
mistakenly gone over 1 or 3 threads.
~ The hole next to a vertical thread is slightly larger.
~ Stitches started next to horizontal threads sometimes don't look as nice,
and can roll under.
Many people on this news group have recommended 32-count Belfast linen as a
good fabric for a beginner. It has a nice weave density.
------------------------------
2.9 Where to Start Stitching
------------------------------
You're finally ready to make that first stitch on a new piece of fabric.
What's the right location in which to start? The center of the cloth? The
upper left? The lower right?
While the design itself should be centered, where you start stitching that
design isup to you. Here are some different schools of thought.
~ Let the design itself determine the starting location. Each design has
its own best place to start.
~ Start in the middle. It makes it easy to be sure everything is centered.
The center of the design is often more interesting to work on.
~ The starting location depends on the direction you stitch. Try to have
your needle come up through the hole with the fewest existing stitches
and down through the hole with the most. For example, someone who
stitches like this:
//////XXXX
should start at the upper left corner of the design.
XXXXXXXXXX
//////XXXX
------------------------
2.10 Number of Strands
------------------------
The number of strands of floss to use is, as with most of counted cross
stitch, open to individual interpretation. Traditionally, a certain amount of
the background cloth should be visible. However, some people prefer a full,
covered look. A very common choice is to use two strands when working on 14
or 18 count cloth. If in doubt, try a few stitches on a scrap of the fabric
you want to use, to see if the "look" is what you want.
-----------------------------------
2.11 The "Right" End of the Floss
-----------------------------------
You may have read posts which talked about "the right end," "direction of the
thread," or "Z-twist and S-twist." First let's talk about what it means, then
we'll look at why you should (or shouldn't) care.
From: Noeline McCaughan <noe...@styx.equinox.gen.nz>...
Just to make things a little clearer -"Z" and "S" are used to describe the
twist in a yarn - any yarn regardless of what fibre it is spun from. Just
take a piece of thick yarn and hold it up in front of your eyes. If the
twist goes from top right to bottom left it is called "Z" (the slant of the
twist equaling the slant of the downstroke in the letter). If it slopes
from top left to right bottom it is of course an "S".
To find the right end for a six-strand length of floss:
~ The end that comes out of the skein is the right end.
~ If the floss is already cut, hold the two ends in one hand, between the
thumb and forefinger. Allow about one half inch from each end to stick
up. Now tap lightly down onto both ends at once with your other
forefinger. The end that spreads more, or "blossoms" is the "right" end.
To find the right end for a single strand of floss, hold it up and run it
between your thumb and forefinger. The direction that feels smoother is the
right direction, and the top is the right end.
Some people find it easier to separate a strand when it is removed from the
right end. They have less problem with tangling.
So, now you know how to find it. Why should you? Unfortunately, this is one
of the few topics in counted cross stitch that people tend to get religious
about. Even the professionals don't agree.
The two main schools of thought:
~ The needle should be threaded with the right end. The stitches lie
better, and knots are less likely to happen. It is bad form to stitch
without paying attention to thread direction.
~ If it takes a magnifying glass to see the difference in the stitches,
keeping track of the right end of the thread is a waste of time.
Besides, the loop method of starting stitches (where by definition one
strand is the right way and one the wrong) can help keep the back of the
picture neat.
------------------------
2.12 Cutting the Floss
------------------------
Floss should be cut about 18"-20" long, or twice that if the thread will be
doubled for the loop method. Some people like to use one arm length when
doubling. See section "2.13 How to Start the Thread" for more information
about the loop method.
Metallics, or any fiber with a very rough surface, should be cut somewhat
shorter. It helps prevent fraying.
Most people prefer to separate the floss into individual strands and then
recombine them. There is less twisting and knotting, and the stitches lie
flatter. To separate a thread from the others, hold onto the top end of the
thread between your thumb and forefinger. Pull down on it with the other
thumb and forefinger, taking all the other threads with you. It looks like a
knot will form. Have faith. Everything comes out just fine.
------------------------------
2.13 How to Start the Thread
------------------------------
And now for a strong suggestion--DO NOT KNOT THE THREAD. An exception _might_
be made for cross stitch on clothing, towels and the like.
~ Knots can create lumps and bumps on the front when the picture is mounted.
~ Knots can catch the floss.
~ Knots can lead to uneven thread tension and distorted fabric.
~ Knots can pop through to the front, especially on a loosely woven fabric.
~ Knots are harder to undo if you make a mistake.
~ Knots make the back look messy. A good general rule is that a neat back
means a better looking front.
So, what is it you _should_ do? There are several methods listed below. Many
people use more than one, letting the circumstances determine their selection.
As a side note, see the section "3.1 Needles" for information on what size and
type of needle to use.
Running Under
-------------
Run the thread under 4 or 5 of the stitches on the back, if they are right
next to where you want to start. You may choose to whip stitch around the
second or third stitch as you are running under. This helps to lock the
thread in.
Sometimes dark colors show through when woven under lighter colors. Check to
make sure this isn't happening.
A variation--if you stitch in a manner that leaves vertical lines on the back,
try whip stitching or weaving up (or down) a few of these vertical stitches.
This technique makes for a very neat looking back.
Loop Method
-----------
The loop method only works for even numbers of strands.
For two strands, start with one long strand about 36"-40" long. Fold it in
half. Thread the needle so the two ends are the tail, near the needle, and
the "loop" is the end farthest from the needle. Start the stitch with the
loop end dangling a little bit below the cloth. When the needle comes back
down to the underside, run it between the loop and the cloth, and pull tight
(gently).
Knotless Waste Knot
-------------------
Start the thread from the top side, an inch or two from where you want to
begin stitching. Leave a tail of thread on the top side. When you have
completed some stitches, pull the tail to the back side. Run it under the new
stitches.
Waste Knot
----------
This is similar to the knotless waste knot described above. One difference is
that the tail on the front is knotted, to act as an anchor. It should be
started farther away from the stitching point, as the tail-and-knot on the
front is cut away when the stitches are completed. The remaining tail on the
back is run under the new stitches.
For both the waste knot and knotless waste knot, careful placement of the
"knot" will cause the tail on the back to be covered as you stitch.
----------------------------
2.14 Carrying Threads Over
----------------------------
You can carry thread over if there is no stitching between two areas of the
design, but only for short distances. This means 3 or 4 squares on aida, or 4
threads on linen.
The thread can be carried farther if the region between the two areas has been
(or will be) filled in with other stitches. How far? This depends on the
relative darkness of the colors. The carried thread should be woven under the
existing stitches, but sometimes dark colors show through when woven under
lighter colors. Check to make sure this isn't happening. Even under the best
conditions, you probably shouldn't carry the thread more than a distance of 5
or 6 stitches.
Try to plan your work so that it isn't necessary to travel very far to do the
next stitch.
--------------------------------------------------------
2.15 How to Keep the Thread From Twisting and Knotting
--------------------------------------------------------
Separate the floss into individual strands and then recombine them. There is
less twisting and knotting, and the stitches lie flatter. To separate a
thread from the others, hold onto the top end of the thread between your thumb
and forefinger. Pull down on it with the other thumb and forefinger, taking
all the other threads with you. It looks like a knot will form. Have faith.
Everything comes out just fine.
Run each separated strand of floss over a damp sponge just before using it.
This makes the floss lie much smoother and flatter. Remember, some fibers,
such as silk, should not be dampened.
If you know which direction you tend to twist the needle, give it a little
bit of a twist the opposite direction after each stitch.
Try threading the needle with the "right" end of the floss. See section "2.11
The Right End of the Floss" for more information.
Let the thread dangle every so often and untwist it.
If you use the stab method rather than the sewing method, you can use a
technique called railroading. On the top half of the cross stitch, pull the
needle and thread through to the front to start the stitch in the usual
manner. Then put the tip of the needle between the two threads right where
they come through the fabric so that the needle is pointing in the direction
it needs to go to complete the stitch, and take it over to finish the stitch.
Where the needle is going to go to complete the stitch.
|
|
\|/
o //
//
// <--- first half stitch
//
//
//
//
//
// \ <--- needle tip
// \
// \---------
/ \ \
/ \ | <--- thread
| \ |
| \ |
| \ |
| O \
| || \
| || \
\ || \-----------\
---------------------------\
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
\\----------------//
----------------
----------------------------
2.16 How to End the Thread
----------------------------
Not surprisingly, the techniques for ending the thread resemble those for
starting the thread.
First, the same strong suggestion--DO NOT KNOT THE THREAD. An exception
_might_ be made for cross stitch on clothing, towels and the like.
One good method is to run the thread under 4 or 5 of the stitches on the back.
You may choose to whip stitch around one of the stitches as you are running
under. This helps to lock the thread in.
Sometimes dark colors show through when woven under lighter colors. Check to
make sure this isn't happening.
If you stitch in a manner that leaves vertical lines on the back, try whip
stitching or weaving up (or down) a few of these vertical stitches. This
technique makes for a very neat looking back.
-----------------------------
2.17 Using Variegated Floss
-----------------------------
Variegated floss is used to create interesting effects and one-of-a-kind
pictures. While you are always free to do as the spirit takes you, there are
some more organized approaches. The following is one method, but is by no
means the only one. For information on another, read DMC's pamphlet #15235
"Cross Stitch with Variegated Floss".
Remove the floss from the skein and wind it lengthwise around a yardstick.
Those of you living in countries on the metric system might have to saw a few
centimeters off the end of a meter stick. Carefully cut the floss at the
middle and at each end, to give you four groups of floss. Two groups should
be lighter and two should be darker, overall. Combine the two lighter groups
together and consider them to be one group. Do the same with the two darker
groups. As you stitch the design, complete each X as you go. Do not use the
Danish method.
------------------
2.18 Where Am I?
------------------
There are many approaches to keeping track of location. Find the method that
is easiest for you:
~ Photocopy the original pattern. Mark off the parts as you finish them
with a highlighter or pencil.
~ Some people like to see the shapes of the different areas. For this
method, photocopy the pattern if the original isn't in color. Color in
the entire picture before starting to stitch, using distinctive colors for
each symbol. The colors don't need to be close to the thread colors.
~ Laminate the chart with clear contact paper. Mark off the parts as you
finish them with a fine tip _dry_erase_ pen. The chart can be wiped
clean with a paper towel when you are through. Works on color and B&W
charts.
~ Put the chart on a metal board, and use a magnetic straight edge that can
be moved along the chart as you stitch. A variation on this is to use
non-magnetic plastic strips on a non-metal board.
~ Use Post-It notes. Easy to move, and very portable.
~ Baste a grid onto the fabric. Some people like a 10x10 stitch grid.
Others just use one horizontal and one vertical line through the center.
A variation is to baste a small "ruler" near the edge of the fabric,
outside the area of the picture.
--------------------
2.19 Backstitching
--------------------
Any backstitching should be done after all the cross stitches in the area are
complete. The number of strands is usually given in the chart instructions,
with a single strand being by far the most common.
To turn a corner without leaving a diagonal on the back side (up on the odd
numbers and down on the even):
o 7
|
|
|
o 6 8
|
|
|
o-----o-----o
2 1 3
4 5
Some people prefer a double running stitch to a backstitch. This is
especially true if the backstitch will leave them stranded in the middle of
nowhere. To do a double running stitch, go forward doing every other stitch
(up on the odd numbers and down on the even):
o-----o o-----o o-----o
1 2 3 4 5 6
Then come back, filling in the gaps:
o-----o-----o-----o-----o-----o
11 10 9 8 7
To keep the line from looking staggered, be consistent on the return trip.
Always come up on one side of the stitch that is already there, and go down on
the other side. For example, come up above on stitch 7 and down below on
stitch 8.
------------
2.20 Beads
------------
It is becoming more common for designs to require beads. Beading should be
done after the cross stitching and backstitching.
You may use beading thread, floss that matches the color of the bead, or
floss that matches the color of the background fabric. Each will produce a
different effect, with a light-colored thread brightening the bead's color
and a dark colored thread deadening the color.
The simplest method to attach a bead is with a half stitch or quarter stitch.
One method to keep the beads from drooping or sliding requires two strands of
thread. Attach the bead using a half stitch, coming up through the first
hole, through the bead, and down through the second (diagonal) hole. Then,
come back up through the first hole, split the two strands of thread around
the bead so one goes on each side, and go back down through the second hole.
Another technique, which is said to work well for a row, starts with the beads
attached along the row with half stitches. At the end of the row, the thread
is run back to the beginning by going through the beads, above the fabric.
Yet another method uses a full cross stich. Attach the bead using a half
stitch, then complete the cross stitch while going through the bead again.
The order and direction of the two half stitches determines whether the hole
in the bead points side-to-side or top-to-bottom.
-------------------------
2.21 Signing and Dating
-------------------------
Should you sign and date your work? If it is intended to be entered in a
competition, possibly not. Find out the rules first. Otherwise, go for it!
Be proud of your skill. Signing can make a piece more valuable, as the years
go by.
Samplers usually incorporate the stitcher's initials and the year into the
design. All other designs require a little more creativity on the signer's
part.
Some people use permanent ink and sign on the edge, where it will be hidden by
the mat or frame. Personally, why would you want to hide this interesting and
valuable information?
Most people find a way to stitch their name/date with teeny letters, over two
threads. Try out some variations on scrap cloth, until you find a look you
like.
Note--A teacher once recommended that one not abbreviate the year. Stitch
"1994" rather than "'94." She said this was particularly important as we
approach a new century. Remember, all those things stitched in the 1990's
will be from the previous century in 2001.
There are several things you can do to make a signature visible but
unobtrusive. For example, use a thread color that is only a shade or two
darker than the fabric. Or incorporate the signature into a shadow, using the
shadow's color. Or put it below an object, using the object's color. Or
figure out a way to make it part of the design...
---------------------------
2.22 Cleaning and Storing
---------------------------
Obviously, when it comes to cleaning cross stitch on bibs, towels, clothing
and napkins, do whatever it takes to get the piece clean. If this means
throwing it into the washing machine with detergent and bleach, so be it.
However, the heirloom-to-be deserves special treatment or it may become the
heirloom-that-never-was. Here are some suggestions that are very conservative
and cautious. It seems safest to list many things that a stitcher might want
to know. You are then free to use or ignore whatever you choose.
While you are stitching:
~ Always wash your hands before stitching, and keep them clean while you
work. Don't use hand lotion before stitching. Keep your hands out of
your hair, off your face, out of the popcorn, away from the pizza and far
from the chocolate bar.
~ No smoking near the project.
~ Watch out for ink from highlighters, and toner from photocopies.
~ Cross stitch projects, especially those in scroll frames, make very nice
cat beds. You may choose to view any fur that works its way into the
project as part of the design. If not, try using a sticky lint remover
or tweezers.
~ Don't store linens or fine fabrics in plastic for the long term. The
plastic can trap moisture and, over time, release chemicals. However,
storing projects in plastic while they are in progress can help to keep
them clean. This is assuming it takes less than 5 years to complete the
project :-).
~ If you want to store a project-in-progress for a more than a few days,
roll it rather than fold it. Wrap it in cloth, preferably white.
~ If you use a hoop, remove the project after every stitching session.
~ Put your project in the hoop or bars backwards. This prevents the front
of the design from touching anything when the bars are set down. It also
provides more room on the back of the project for ending threads.
~ Try not to hold on to the project in a way that leaves your hand touching
the front of the fabric. For example, fold any extra fabric forward and
hold the project there. Some people like to use a layer of tissue or
white flannel on top of the project, with an opening in the center to
stitch through. These can be fitted into a hoop, and provide something
to hold onto.
When you are done stitching:
~ Always launder the project when completed. No matter how often you wash
your hands before stitching there will be skin oils left which may cause
stains and damage later on.
~ Avoid anything which cause the project to have long term (many year)
exposure to chemicals. For example, don't use Scotch Guard.
~ Do not dry clean, if at all possible. The chemicals can be gritty and
may have long term effects. If the piece is lost at the cleaners, you
will only be reimbursed for the cost of the materials.
Some fabrics and fibers (wool and silk) may require dry cleaning. If
this is the case, go to a very reputable cleaner, and have a long talk
about the best way for them to do the cleaning.
~ Hand wash each piece individually in cold or lukewarm water. Use
something which is pH balanced and has _no_ whitening agents. This means
something like Ivory Snow, Orvus paste (also used for washing horses and
cows), Quilt Soap (which is Orvus soap packaged in small containers for
people who don't need a gallon of it), Treasure Wash, etc. Do not use
Woolite, strong detergents or chlorine bleach as they may make the colors
bleed. Let the project soak for several minutes. Rinse thoroughly, but
don't scrub or wring. If the colors run, repeat the process until the
water rinses clear. Some people include vinegar in the water when
handwashing, to help prevent the colors from running.
~ Remove the piece from the water and place it on a clean, white, terry
cloth towel. Roll it up like a jelly roll, to remove the excess water.
While still damp, lay it face down on a couple of towels and iron with a
dry iron at the wool or linen setting until it is dry. Try not to move
the iron back and forth. You may use a pressing cloth, in fact you
_should_ use a pressing cloth if there are metallics. The process of
ironing until dry prevents uneven drying and puckering of the cloth and
threads. Let the project air dry another 24 hours before framing.
When catastrophe strikes, all the tips listed above should be ignored. Just
do what you have to. People on this news group have used detergent, bleach,
hydrogen peroxide, Goop and ice to remove soda pop, rust, mold, vomit, catsup
and bleeding dyes.
Tyrie J. Grubic <tel...@teleport.com> reported a cleaning method that was
discovered at Cross Stitch Corner in Bellevue, Washington, when attempting
a last-ditch, nothing-to-lose stain removal:
Anyway, it works, does *not* damage the piece at all, does not cause any
bleeding of colors, etc...Here's the method:
First of all, store the Goop in the fridge. Goop kept at room temperature
after being opened will break down in a few months and be useless. Do
*not* use this broken-down version on your piece.
On a clean, flat surface, spread out the piece, backside up. Cover it in
Goop. Lather it on. On any especially dirty places, or any places where
the stitching is dense, place it on the front side as well. Leave it for
30 minutes. If you won't be able to get it back in 30 minutes, put it
in a plastic bag, but leave it open, or it will get moldy. Do not leave
it in the bag very long.
Using cold water and a mild liquid soap such as Woolite or Ivory, rinse
the goop out. Continue rinising in clear, cold water until the water is
clear.
From there, continue as recommended earlier and press between clean, white
towels.
------------------------------------
2.23 Mounting, Matting and Framing
------------------------------------
Not all cross stitch needs to be framed like a picture. Cross stitch can be
found on pillows, linens, clothing, box lids, jewelry, light switch plates,
and so on.
While you may not think the twenty little holiday ornaments you finished late
last night have great value, this is not your decision to make. Fifty years
from now, they may be someone's pride and joy. And you don't want to be the
person who messes up someone's priceless collection of late twentieth century
needlework, do you?
If you _are_ going to frame your project, here are some suggestions. They are
very conservative and cautious. It seems safest to list many things that a
stitcher might want to know. You are then free to use or ignore whatever you
choose. If you take your work to a shop to get it framed, ask the people
there if they do conservation framing. Make sure they are aware of the
following issues.
~ Don't do anything which cannot be undone several years later.
~ Avoid anything which cause the project to have long term exposure to
chemicals, metal or acid.
~ Cut any selvage edge before framing.
~ Zig-zag each edge, or stitch unbleached muslin to each edge.
~ Use acid free foam core or acid-free white mat board as a backing. These
are available in framing stores, art supply stores and office supply
stores. Have it cut at the store, or use an X-acto knife at home. Make
it 1/8 inch smaller than the frame you will be using. Avoid normal
cardboard and paper, as they have high acid contents. The acid can
damage fabric over time. Do not use sticky board. The chemicals can
damage your fabric, and the glue can provide lunch for bugs.
~ Center the piece on the backing. Fold the extra fabric to the back and
tuck in the corners. The fabric on the front should be taut but not
stretched. You may want to use straight pins pushed into the edge of the
backing to temporarily hold the fabric in place. Use unwaxed dental
floss, quilting thread or some other strong thread to lace the fabric to
the backing. Lace the long edges first, sewing from the left to the
right and back to the left, somewhat like lacing a shoe with only one end
of the shoe lace. Keep the stitches about an inch apart. Make sure the
thread is evenly tight. Repeat the lacing for the short edges. Remove
the pins, as even rust-free pins will rust over time.
~ If you use matting, make sure it is acid-free rag matting. Consider
using acid-free rag matting even for double and triple matted pieces,
where not all of the matting is touching the fabric. The regular matting
ages much faster, and it releases fumes.
~ Should you use glass? Like everything else, it's up to you. On the one
hand, glass can protect against dust and pollution. On the other hand,
it may trap moisture and cause mildew. If you use glass, make sure it
does not touch the needlework. Spacers or matting are good for this.
Regular glass is O.K. Standard non-glare glass is bad, as it actually
lets more ultraviolet light in, and may release chemicals. Conservation
glass or UV glass is very good, but expensive. Figure out how much the
project is worth to you, and be willing to pay accordingly.
Kathleen M. Dyer
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Part 2 of 4 - Counted Cross Stitch Frequently Asked Questions version 1.11
Copyright (c) 1994, 1995 Kathleen M. Dyer. Permission is granted to
redistribute this article in its entirety for noncommercial use provided that
this copyright notice is not removed or altered. No portion of this work may
be sold, either by itself or as part of a larger work, without the express
written permission of the author.
==============================================================================
3. Equipment
==============================================================================
-------------
3.1 Needles
-------------
Needle Size
-----------
Counted cross stitch should be done with tapestry needles. They have blunt
points and much larger eyes than sewing needles. The larger the size number,
the smaller the needle. One traditional rule says you should use a 22 needle
if the fabric is 14 count (14 threads per inch) or less, a 24 or 26 needle if
the fabric count is 16-18, and a 26 needle if the fabric is finer than 18.
Most people ignore this and use whatever they like best.
The size/amount of thread used can also determine the best needle size.
The usual "rule" holds--find a size (or sizes) _you_ like.
Needle Finish
-------------
Some people tend to lose the finish on their needles. Besides being ugly,
this makes the needle more difficult to use. Special finishes, such as gold
and platinum, are available. They cost more but tend to last much longer.
For the ultimate in stitching luxery, you can buy a solid gold needle for
around US$40. Keep trying different finishes until you find the one that
works best for you.
Platinum needles will be harder to find in the near future. At least one
supplier is known to be discontinuing the manufacture of platinum needles, as
the process was too harmful to the environment.
--------------------
3.2 Needle Control
--------------------
Even though chair arms are very convenient for holding needles, such use can
cause other members of the household to acquire a more inimate acquaintance
with the tools of your craft than either they or you desire.
A pin cushion is an obvious solution. Needle safes also work well. These
are small, flat cases lined on the inside faces with magnets. Needle safes
can cost from US$5 for a small plastic one to more than US$30 for a good,
handcrafted, wood-and-brass box. People have also had good results with
magnetic paperclip holders, which are available in any place that sells office
supplies.
---------------------------------
3.3 Hoops, Scroll Bars and Such
---------------------------------
First, the traditional rule--stitch on aida using a hoop and stitch on linen
"in the hand".
In actual practice, people do whatever works best for them. Most who like
their fabric taut _do_ tend to avoid hoops in favor of scroll bars or
stretcher bars when working on linen, as hoops may damage the fabric.
See section "2.5 Hoop or Hand?" for the "in-a-hoop vs. in-the-hand" debate.
The discussion in this section assumes that you _have_ decided to use a hoop
or the like.
TIP--Put your project in the hoop or bars backwards. This prevents the front
of the design from touching anything when the bars are set down. It also
provides more room on the back of the project for ending threads.
Stands
------
Most of the following items may be used with a stand. Some people like the
stands, as they can then do "two handed" stitching. This is a method where
one hand is always above the cloth and the other is always below. People who
have trouble holding projects for long periods of time also may find stands
useful--they help avoid or reduce effects from tendonitis, arthritis and
cramping.
There are lap frames which straddle the lap of the stitcher. The bigger
stands are floor models and may take up a great deal of space. Some of them
come with chart holders, lamp holders and even magazine racks.
One side benefit is that stands are usually in plain view with the current
project highly visible, ready to be complimented and begging to be worked on.
People with cats may find that felines appreciate stands too, to the sorrow of
the stitcher.
Hoops
-----
Standard hoops are made of wood or plastic. They are inexpensive and widely
available. While most are circular, there are some oval shaped ones. A
variation on the hoop consists of a plastic outer ring and a metal inner
spring/ring.
Common complaints about hoops:
~ Having to move the hoop as stitching progresses can be a nuisance.
~ A hoop placed over existing stitches may distort them.
~ Marks, stains or creases may be left in the fabric.
Make sure your hoops are clean. Plastic hoops can be washed in the
dishwasher.
Remove the hoop when you are not working.
Scroll Bars
-----------
A set of scroll bars consists of two wooden scroll bars and two spacers. The
fabric is attached to the scroll bars (which look like dowel rods). The
spacers hold the scroll bars apart. They may be attached with wing nuts
(cheaper) or with wooden knobs (more expensive).
There are several methods for attaching the fabric. A bar may have a strip of
heavy-duty material stapled to it. The fabric for the project is then basted
on, using a strong thread such as quilting or carpet thread. Another style
has a slit in the bar into which the edge of the fabric is placed. A third
style uses a groove in the bar and a tube or rod to hold the fabric in the
groove.
Scroll rods and spacer bars are available in many sizes. Select a scroll rod
size that is slightly wider than your fabric. Any fabric longer than the
spacer bars is rolled up onto the scroll rods.
Much more of the project is "in-range" than with a hoop. Tension is not even
in the horizontal and vertical directions, but this isn't too noticeable if
the scroll tension is kept very tight.
It is possible to purchase a basic set of scroll bars quite cheaply, so you
can experiment and see if you like them.
Suggestions--Mark the center of the scroll rod, to make it easier to center
the fabric. When attaching the fabric to the scroll rod, work from the center
and work out to the edges.
Q-Snaps
-------
Q-Snaps (also called Q-frames) are a recent development. They consist of four
pieces of white PVC plastic pipe, about 1" in diameter, which are joined at
the corners to form a square or rectangle. The fabric is held onto each side
by a shell of PVC plastic which snaps down over the pipe.
Q-Snaps are sold in packages of four sides, in lengths of 8 inches, 11 inches
and 17 inches. They are then assembled by the user to form, for example, an
8x11 inch rectangle.
People who use them like their versatility. The fabric creases caused by
hoops doesn't seem to occur. The tension is even in both the vertical and
horizontal directions, unlike scroll bars.
Stretcher Bars
--------------
Stretcher bars are made of wood. They are sold in packages of two sides. I
have seen them in lengths from 4"-40". The sides are assembled to form a
square or rectangle.
With stretcher bars, the entire project area is visible at all times. Some
people prefer to use stretcher bars only with stiffer fabrics, such as canvas,
but other stitchers like them even for soft linens/evenweaves.
The edges of the fabric should be prepared in some way to make them stronger
and to stop them from fraying. Basting, hemming or binding tape are
recommended by different people. The fabric is then attached to the frame
with quilting tacks or staples. Start at the center of each side and work out
to the edges. The fabric should be taut, but not distorted. The tension is
even in both the vertical and horizontal directions, unlike scroll bars.
--------------------------
3.4 Magnifiers and Lamps
--------------------------
Good lighting, of the proper strength and color, can make a world of
difference in the ease with which you can sort thread colors or see those
teeny holes in the fabric. While natural lighting is the best, most of us
don't want to limit our stitching time to daylight hours.
Below are some extracts from postings about this topic.
From: Gillian Cannon <gillian...@solar.org>...
Fluorescent lamps (tubes) come in different colors, just as do incandescent
lamps. Designer Warm White in a fluorescent lamp will give you true
"daylight" colors. If you do not get the correct color of incandescent
lamp (and they are harder to get true colors from) you will have major
color changes. This is information from my daughter, the interior
designer, and her technical notes on lighting...
Also, as I originally mentioned, the heat is a large factor from
incandescent lamps as well as the focused light which, in conjunction with
a magnifier, can cause fires.
From: Gillian Cannon <gillian...@solar.org>...
There has been some discussion on several conferences about light bulbs
(technically called lamps) for use with cross stitch or other work that
requires "true" colors.
After consulting with a lighting expert here are his suggestions:
Fluorescents can give the closest to "natural light" of any artificial
source.
For circular fluorescents (e.g., for use in Dazors), the Design 50 has 5000
Kelvins and is closest to natural daylight. The Designer Cool White is
also close to natural light but is not available in circular form.
The second best artificial light is halogen, with the Daylight lamp, which
is 6500 Kelvins.
The poorest form of commonly used artificial light is the incandescent
lamp, but you can get "color corrected daylight" bulbs at a lighting
specialty store.
Magnifiers can also be a big help. There are inexpensive types which clip
onto glasses. Another kind hangs around the user's neck and is braced against
the chest.
"Around the neck" pluses:
~ Inexpensive
~ Portable
"Around the neck" minuses:
~ Can be uncomfortable if you have a chest that is (ahem...) not very flat.
~ Your light source may reflect back off of the magnifier. This seems to
be a problem only with artificial lighting.
~ Little control over the distance from your eyes to the lens.
Dazor brand lamps are lamps with magnifiers incorporated. They are generally
considered the top of the line in magnifiers for crafters. The lamps come in
white, black and cream.
Dazor pluses:
~ Different lenses for different magnification levels.
~ Choice of fluorescent or incandescent bulbs.
~ Floor models have weighted bases, so the arm can be extended without
tipping the lamp over.
~ Bases come with wheels (optionally).
~ There are models (without bases) which can be clamped onto scroll stands.
Dazor minuses:
~ Very expensive
~ Very heavy
==============================================================================
4. Selling - Original Designs or Finished Products
==============================================================================
-------------------------------------------
4.1 Comments on Selling Finished Products
-------------------------------------------
The consensus in this new group is that it is difficult to sell good quality,
handmade items at a price that reflects the time spent making them. Most
stitchers view their work as a labor of love, and distribute their items as
gifts. A few people stitch models for craft stores in exchange for a small
amount of money and/or a discount on supplies from the store. An even smaller
number of people manage to establish themselves as artists, designing their
own patterns and displaying the models in galleries or special niche market
auctions.
Below are some extracts from postings about this topic.
From: Marina Salume <quil...@marny.Corp.Sun.COM>...
...In general, there is no market for needlework like this, unless you can
establish yourself as an "artist", which means you'd have to design your
own patterns and make them in very limited editions. You'd either get a
gallery to represent you or make things on commission. Take a look at
magazines like FiberArts and Ornament, they show lots of this type of work,
altho not many people are working exclusively in cross stitch. (i've seen
things done in millions of French knots tho, which seems similar).
There is probably a market for reproductions of antique samplers, tho.
Since the real antique ones sell for hundreds of dollars, if you can make
good copies you can probably sell them in antique shops.
Quick ornaments are sold everywhere, here you are competing with things
made in mass quantities in the Orient by women who work for pennies a day.
However you can probably sell these at craft shows or shops.
From: Louise Vrande <lvr...@world.std.com>...
I tried selling cross stitch pieces--I designed them, worked them, finished
them, and went to crafts shows (small ones) to sell them. No one was very
interested. At least, not in paying for the work. They admired it, as if
it were a museum display. Others said, well, I do cross stitch myself.
Never mind they didn't have and couldn't get these designs!
At one show I did, a "customer" pulled her younger companion away from my
booth, saying "No, that stuff is handmade. It's too expensive." Isn't
handmade the point? And, given the hours that went into producing each
piece, it was not expensive.
From: Gillian Cannon <gillian...@solar.org>...
I have a friend who is a professional stitcher--she stitches both cross
stitch and needlepoint on commission for clients. She charges $1 per
square inch (the client provides the materials). Right now she is working
on a large needlepoint canvas that's 18 count or so. It will take her
about 3 months to do (I don't think she will be working on it full time
however. She rotates her stuff so she doesn't get stale on any one.) When
she is done she'll get about $400, which is slave wages.
I stitch as a labor of love--for my family and friends (and I'm finally
gonna sit down and do something for myself--an enormous Cross Wing chart of
wildflowers that will be about 38" x 23" on 30 count linen). Somehow, if I
get paid for something it all of a sudden becomes "work" instead of "fun"
and is a pain to complete.
Quick ornament types usually take at least several hours to complete. If
you can get $5 for the finished item, you will be lucky. However, I do not
know what your financial situation is or how you value your time. All I
can say is that you can make a whole lot more (and at home as well) doing
computer input, etc.
From: Mary Rita Otto <Mary.Ri...@att.com>
I created original designs for a niche market, and sold them through art
auctions. I designed things for techie-types, and sold them at Science
Fiction convention art shows. They sold very well. I made what I consider
to be good money -- that is, more than double the cost of the materials on
pieces which didn't take a lot of work. It was a ego stroke to know that
people were willing to bid against each other to get my stuff. On the
other hand, I was sorry to see some of them go. I guess art is like that.
---------------------------------
4.2 Craft Business Mailing List
---------------------------------
A craft business mailing list was created by Teri Miller early in January,
1994. If you would like to be on the list, send email to
"crafts-busi...@hustle.rahul.net". To post an article, send email to
"crafts-...@hustle.rahul.net" and (if appropriate) it will be forwarded
to the list.
From the article announcing the formation of the list:
I'm hoping that the list will host discussions of crafts businesses,
including starting one's own business, referrals of businesses that are
especially good or interesting, pointers to more information: basically,
anything that could be considered a pointer to a business or info on
starting one is great. Do you have a business and want to post an ad? If
it's not excessively long or too frequently submitted, I'll forward those
along, too. My impression is that at least some of the respondents were
interested in talking with people who already have businesses, and mailing
out their ads is a good way to make them known.
-----------------------
4.3 DMC and Designers
-----------------------
DMC has a pair of programs which aid designers while promoting the use of DMC
products.
Freelance needlework designers may join the DMC Editorial Project Bank. For
a fee from the designer, DMC acts as an agent. It submits designs to various
publications and handles all the business details.
Designers and publishers may join the DMC Designer Program. Members are
supplied free of charge with all the DMC products needed to complete any model.
For more information, contact:
The DMC Corporation
10 Port Kearney
South Kearney NJ 07032
ATTN: Designer Program.
-------------------------------------
4.4 Publishing Designs in Magazines
-------------------------------------
The section above on the DMC Editorial Project Bank gave one specific approach
to getting your designs published. Here are some other ideas.
Magazines which are searching for original designs for publication will
usually make this fact know. For example, the British magazine Needlework
has a monthly Factfile section which gives specific instructions on how to
submit design ideas.
If a magazine doesn't give contact information, you will have to do a little
more research. Talk to people in the trade and don't be afraid to write
letters to find what you need to know.
Look for startup magazines which don't already have a well established group
of designers. They may be more receptive. On the other had, don't be afraid
to aim high.
Enter magazine sponsored design contests. No, a first place win won't give
you a design job, but it will get your work in front of the public. It
also gives you something to add to your portfolio.
==============================================================================
5. Entering Competitions
==============================================================================
If you plan on entering a project in competition, the _best_ policy is to find
out the specific rules for that competition. But for those cases where you
don't decide to enter until the piece is well under way, it can help to keep
some commonplace rules in mind. Below is a general list of "what judges look
for" in an award winning counted cross stitch picture.
~ All stitches cross in the same direction, unless some special effect is
planned.
~ Even tension. Stitches flat, but no distortion of the cloth. Make sure
no line of light formed along a row.
~ Stitches not twisted.
~ Full coverage, but not bulky. Airy.
~ No knots.
~ No long carry-overs.
~ No loose tails.
~ Reverse side stitches should be vertical. (This is a subject of some
debate.)
~ Clean. No wrinkles. No hoop marks.
~ Overall appearance.
~ Right and wrong end of the floss. (This is _definitely_ a subject of
debate.)
~ Not judged on framing.
~ All other things being equal, additional types of stitches or a show of
originality with regard to fabric or fiber may help.
==============================================================================
6. Other Stitching Techniques
==============================================================================
There are many, many styles or techniques for counted thread work and
embroidery. Most are centuries old, and have been in and out of fashion more
than once.
Any additions to this list or to the descriptions are welcome.
-----------------
6.1 Assisi Work
-----------------
From: Mary Rita Otto <Mary.Ri...@att.com>...
Assisi Work is a form of embroidery where the background is stitched around
an unstitched silouette design, which is outlined in backstitch to further
define it. One particularly lovely form employes subtle shading of the
background threads -- to me, it looks like a sunrise backlighting the
subject. These designs can be particularly lovely.
---------------
6.2 Blackwork
---------------
From: Mary Rita Otto <Mary.Ri...@att.com>...
I've been researching the history of Blackwork. Actually, it dates back to
at least the 1300's. It was mentioned in the Canterbury Tales, in a
description of the Miller's wife's nightcap. While the use of black wool
(natural, rather than dyed) on white linen is one of the traditional forms,
red on white was also extremely popular. Catherine of Aragon was
responsible for bringing the darker fashions of Spain to England, and with
them came a fashion trend for blackwork in court clothing (as opposed to
peasant clothing like the miller's wife was wearing in the 1300's).
Only some blackwork is reversible. Reversible work is confined primarily
to border patterns. The reversible patterns were worked in double running
stitch, sometimes overcast to smooth the lines and hide the holes between
the stitches. Other embroidery in the classification of blackwork are
repeating "diaper" patterns used as filling stitches, and outlined in
chain, split or stem stitch. These were worked on a plain ground fabric,
not necessarily an even weave. Interestingly, a technique was developed
using starched cheesecloth over the plain fabric to regulate the stitch
length, much like the modern use of waste canvas.
From: Gillian Cannon <gillian...@solar.org>...
...It was brought to England by Catherine of Aragon, I believe, and came
into popularity through the paintings of Hans Holbein (it is also called
"Holbein" work) and because lace could not be imported from France because
of the war. The blackwork gives the look of lace to a garment's sleeves,
collar, and other areas.
-------------------------
6.3 Counted Thread Work
-------------------------
From: Mary Rita Otto <Mary.Ri...@att.com>...
This is the descriptive category for stitches worked over a counted number
of threads. It includes traditional sampler making stitches such as
long-armed cross-stitch, Italian cross-stitch, four sided stitch, Queen
stitch, nun's stitch, herringbone, and "countless" ;^) others.
Cross-stitch is only one of the many counted thread stitches. Eileen
Bennett of The Sampler House is a leading authority on this traditional
sampler making stitches.
-----------------------
6.4 Drawn Thread Work
-----------------------
From: Mary Rita Otto <Mary.Ri...@att.com>...
This is a technique which is enjoying a resurgence. It involves the
removal of some of the threads from a section of the fabric. One of the
more interesting techniques is to remove the horizontal threads and to work
twisting patterns (called leno work) in the remaining vertical threads.
This creates a lovely lacey effect. Linda Driscoll is a leading designer
of Drawn Thread samplers and provides excellent instruction in the
techniques in her publications.
Drawn Thread Work is traditionally worked in white on white (or ivory on
ivory) and is sometimes called "White Work". Such monotone samplers are
often displayed by mounting them over a piece of colored linen to highlight
the open work areas. Interesting effects can be achieved using color with
the technique, though. Needleweaving (one of the techniques) can be used
to create, for example, a row of Christmas trees in openwork. Gold threads
were used in some historic pieces worked in this technique.
----------------------
6.5 Duplicate Stitch
----------------------
Duplicate Stitch is a technique for embroidering on knitted objects so that
the resulting design appears to have been knitted in. It is done as a
series of V's, to match the V's in a standard stockinette weave. While
regular cross stitch patterns may be used, it is important to remember that
the resulting design will appear squashed.
--------------------------
6.6 Hardanger Embroidery
--------------------------
Hardanger is a Scandinavian counted thread technique, performed on a special
evenweave cloth called (logically) Hardanger. Traditionally, it is done on
a 22 count (22 threads per inch) cloth with a matching color cotton thread
such as Perle. Hardanger embroidery bears a resemblance to Drawn Thread Work,
but it emphasizes box shapes rather than long rows of stitches.
------------------------
6.7 Pulled Thread Work
------------------------
Pulled Thread is a very easy technique which creates complicated looking
patterns. Probably the hardest thing for a cross stitcher to remember is to
PULL HARD.
From: Mary Rita Otto <Mary.Ri...@att.com>...
Pulled Thread is one of my favorite techniques. It is, like it says, a
technique where the embroidered thread is pulled tightly. This distorts
the threads of the fabric, creating holes between the stitches. It makes a
nice, light, lacey effect. I find that a border of double backstitch,
pulled, makes a lovely accent around a stitched piece. It is simple to
work. For someone who would like to experiment with this simplest of
pulled thread techniques, I recommend the pattern leaflet from Sal-Em for
their table linens which shows the rose design. This was my introduction
into the technique. The instructions were very clear, and the stitch is
easy to do. I was very pleased with the results of my first effort.
(Hey, I went on to make 4 placemats and 4 napkins, so that says something!)
Pulled Thread is, apparently, a Danish technique. There are a lot of
different patterns for pulled thread, either as a border or a filling
stitch. It tends to have a lighter effect than either hardanger or drawn
thread, and does not require the cutting of the fabric threads.
-----------------------
6.8 Shadow Embroidery
-----------------------
From: Stella Nemeth <stella...@solar.org>...
...This is both a very old form of embroidery and something that is just
making a comeback. It was popular in the last century and again in the
1930s and is just beginning to make a dent in the heirloom sewing world...
It is embroidery done on a semi-transparent fabric like organdy. The idea
is that you can see the threads on the back as a sort of colored pastel
shadow. On the front, all you can see is what looks like backstitches
outlining the elements of the design -- usually leaves, flowers and big
bows. On the back the thread produces a herringbone pattern out of the
crossing threads which almost, but not quite, fills in the elements being
embroidered.
Modern shadow embroidery sometimes has surface embroidery on it as well in
the form of french knots for flower centers and bouillon roses.
------------------
6.9 Waste Canvas
------------------
This is not so much a different stitching technique as it is a way to do
counted cross stitch on non-evenweave fabrics. Waste canvas is a special type
of evenweave fabric which comes in a variety of mesh sizes. The fabric is
unusual in that its threads are held in place with starch. The waste canvas
is used by basting it onto a non-evenweave fabric, such as the front of a
sweatshirt. This provides a grid for doing counted cross stitch or other
counted thread stitches. Once the stitching is complete, the waste canvas is
removed by dampening the canvas to remove the starch which binds its threads
together. These threads are then removed one at a time, with tweezers.
-----------------
6.10 Silk Gauze
-----------------
Stitching on silk gauze is actually closer to needlepoint than to counted
cross stitch, but a person experienced with either form of needlework
should have no trouble stitching on silk gauze (except possibly for *vision*
difficulties).
THE FABRIC is a special silk mesh originally made for the medical profession
for the treatment of burn victims. Although several mesh sizes are available,
the one most commonly used for stitching is 40-count. This means 40 stitches
to the inch, or *1600* stitches to the square inch. The gauze is extremely
expensive, at over US$300 (yes, three hundred dollars) per yard. Luckily, a
little goes a long way. The gauze sold for stitching generally comes mounted
in a cardboard frame, and is sold in sizes such as 5"x7". Keep the gauze in
the frame while stitching, and remove it after you are done.
THE THREAD is usually silk thread, although cotton floss may be substituted.
Sometimes this is necessary if the correct color cannot be found in silk. Use
one strand of thread. It does not need to be very long--probably 10" or so.
THE NEEDLE should be small and sharp, such as a small crewel needle.
THE CHART may be just about any counted cross stitch chart. Keep in mind that
you will not be able to do any quarter stitches. Also, any additions such as
beads will be too big. Note that we follow the counted cross stitch tradition
rather than the needlepoint when it comes to filling in the background--we do
*not* fill in the background unless the chart calls for it. The gauze is
allowed to show.
THE STITCH is a continental stitch rather than a cross stitch. This looks
like a half-stitch from in front, but the back is a long diagonal. For
this diagram, come up at the odd numbers and down at the even:
Continental Stitch
1 3 5
/ / /
/ / /
/ / /
/ / /
/ / /
2 4 6
Do not carry thread across the back in an area that will not be stitched. It
*will* show through.
If you have trouble seeing the work area (and most people will), use a
magnifying lamp and hold the gauze over a dark background.
Kathleen M. Dyer
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Part 3 of 4 - Counted Cross Stitch Frequently Asked Questions version 1.11
Copyright (c) 1994, 1995 Kathleen M. Dyer.
Permission is granted to redistribute this article in its entirety for
noncommercial use provided that this copyright notice is not removed or
altered. No portion of this work may be sold, either by itself or as part of
a larger work, without the express written permission of the author.
==============================================================================
7. Finding Supplies
==============================================================================
-------------------------------------------
7.1 Ordering Supplies By Mail and Phone
-------------------------------------------
If you are having trouble finding that special chart or fabric, try contacting
one of the following businesses. All have been mentioned at one time or
another by someone in rec.crafts.textiles.needlework or in its predecessor
rec.crafts.textiles.
As long as this list is, it is far from complete. The advertising sections of
needlework and embroidery magazines are good sources for information on all
kinds of businesses which cater to stitchers.
Please let me know if you have any corrections or additions.
Accents in Stitches
3712 Williams Blvd
Kenner LA 70065
Phone: 504-469-0981
Source for some simple Judaic designs by Annette Dicken.
Al Scale Enterprises
20297 Stanton Avenue
Maple Ridge, British Columbia
V2X 9A5
Silk embroidery floss and other supplies.
The American Needlewoman
PO Box 6472
Fort Worth TX 76115
Phone: 1-800-433-2231
Anne Powell Ltd
PO Box 3060
Stuart, FL 34995-3060
Phone: 407-287-3007
1-800-622-2646 (For orders only)
Fax: 407-287-3007
Sterling silver & gold needle tools, English hand-painted enamels from
Crummles, Glenshee evenweave linen & Egyptian cotton, nostalgic "victorian"
sampler patterns for counted thread, teddy bears, dolls, antique sewing
tools and gifts. Catalogue available.
Armorial Tapestries
160 Church Road
Wembury PL9 0HR
UK
Phone: +44 175 286 3129
Researched and individually designed family coats of arms for counted cross
stitch or tapestry. Also Traditional County Coats of Arms, regimental
badges, etc.
Artisan Design
2208 S. Elder Circle
Broken Arrow OK 74012
Phone: 1-800-747-8263
918-455-2046 (local, international, Alaska and Hawaii)
Gazelle floorstands, Lokscroll scrollframes, and Elan tabletop/lap stand,
with accessories.
Berry'd Treasure
PO Box 9607
Rapid City SD 57709-9607
Phone: 605-342-5212
Fax: 605-342-5212 (after 6 pm, Mountain Time)
Email: sbe...@silver.sdsmt.edu
A store which does mail order. Extensive collection of old and
out-of-print charts, including several Bob Timberlane leaflets and a fairly
complete collection of older Gloria & Pat books. Needlework supplies.
Silk ribbon.
Black Magnolia
PO Box 80088
Ottawa, Ontario
Canada KIS 5N6
The Canadian representative for the Rajmahal products from Australia, this
company carries the complete Rajmahal line of art silk threads, sadi
threads, and shisha mirrors.
Several other lines/products are available, including the Caron Collection
specialty fibers, Petals silk ribbon, and Nancy Spruance designs.
Catalog available on request. Mail order to anywhere.
Bretts Needlecraft Centre
St Peters Road
Petersfield
Hants GU32 3HX
UK
Phone: 01730 266228
A shop which does mail order. Fibers, beads, charts, magazines.
Bucilla Corporation
1 Oak Ridge Road
Hazelton PA 18201-9764
Kits. Of special note--kits entitled "Made by me, Beginnings" for
children.
California Stitchery
Phone: 1-800-345-3332
818-781-9515
Good source for Judaic designs. Also many secular designs. Kits for
needlepoint, embroidery, crochet, counted cross stitch, and stamped cross
stitch. Free catalog.
Campden Needlecraft Centre
Chipping Campden
Glos GL55 6AG
UK
Phone: 01368 840583
A shop which does mail order. Needlepoint and cross stitch. Kits, charts,
all types of fibers and fabrics.
Canadiana Needlecrafts Limited
Phone: 1-800-667-5841
Cartouche
6448 Freeman Ave
Byron, NY 14422
Phone: 1-800-716-6430 (11 AM - 11 PM EST)
Email: <cart...@f129.n260.z1.fidonet.org>
Specializing in supplying the on-line community with needleworking fibers,
fabrics, books, charts and notions via mail order.
Clotilde, Inc.
2 Sew Smart Way b8031
Stevens Point WI 54481-8031
Phone: 1-800-772-2891 (orders)
Catalog for embroidery supplies and books. Supplies for silk ribbon
embroidery.
Color Charts
3808 Waples Street
San Diego CA 92121
Counted Illuminations
1880 Cain Road
North Collins, NY 14111
Craftmen's Studio
2727 Ring Road
Greensboro NC 27405
Phone: 910-621-4994
1-800-234-2808 (orders only)
Zweigart products.
Creative Crafts
11 The Square
Winchester SO23 9ES
UK
Phone: 01962 56266
A shop which does mail order. General crafts shop with large area devoted
to cross stitch.
Cross Stitch & Country Crafts
Cross Stitch Catalog
1617 Locust Street
Des Moines IA 50309
The catalog, not the magazine. Kits, supplies, frames, scroll stands,
books. Adapters to allow Q-Snaps to attach to scroll stand.
Cross Stitch Plus
2267 NW Military Hwy
San Antonio TX 78213
Phone: 210-342-8252
This shop has a catalog for US$5, refundable with $25 mail order. For
additional postage, they will ship international.
Crossed-Wings Collection
Rte 1, Box 234
New London, WI 54961
Phone: 414-982-7638
Designers of realistic, detailed bird charts. Some charts also include
plants and butterflies.
De Denne's
159-161 Kenton Road
Harrow
Middlesex HA3 OEU
UK
Phone: 0181-907-5476.
Designs by Gloria and Pat, Inc.
PO Box 2318
Sumter SC 29151-2318
Source of many popular designs, including the Precious Moments adaptations.
Disney
One Disney Drive
PO Box 29144
Shawnee Mission, KS 66201-9144
Phone: 1-800-237-5751
Dove in the Window
PO Box 19744
Portland OR 97219
Danish Handcraft Guild kits, publications, and supplies.
Down Under Designs
P.O. Box 876
McMurray PA 15317
Phone: 412-941-5031 (phone and fax)
Australian and British patterns, imported to the U.S. Castles, cottages,
landscapes, animals, flowers, etc.
Estelle Designs And Sales Limited
Phone: 1-800-387-5167
Eva Rosenstand
Head office:
Virumsgardsvej 18
DK - 2830 Virum
Denmark
Main shop:
Ostergade 42 (O with a /)
1100 Kopenhavn K
Denmark
Germany address:
Postfach 2288
D - 23510 Luebeck
Phone: 0451 - 39 14 18
The catalogue costs 6,50 DM.
Italy address:
Via San Antonio 30
I - 58037 Santa Fiora (GR)
Phone: 0564 - 978276
UK address:
PO Box 22
Saffron Walden
Essex CB10 2XZ
Phone: 0799 525703
Eva Rosenstand kits with linen or Aida. The main catalog costs £2.50
including postage in the UK. Add 50% extra for postage for elsewhere.
USA address:
PO Box 185
Clovis, CA 93613-0185
Phone: 209-292-2241
The catalog costs US$5
Fabric of Time
900 Meridian East, Suite 19-202
Puyallup, WA 98371-1242
Phone: 206-770-2829
Fax: 206-952-6398
Makers of the Boo-boo Stick, used to remove cut threads.
Fiber Farm
Phone: 1-800-527-3634
Franken Frames
609 West Walnut Street
Johnson City TN 37604
Phone: 1-800-322-5899 (orders)
615-926-8853
Low cost frames.
Garden Fairies Trading Company
PO Box 2035
Sebastopol CA 95472
Phone: 1-800-925-9919
Store and catalog (US$4). Heirloom sewing supplies, fine fabrics, laces,
ribbons, and patterns. Swatches for US$7.
Gare Crafts
Phone: 1-800-833-1008
Gemini III
Phone: 1-800-265-8389
Glorafilia, Ltd.
The Old Mill House
The Ridgeway
Mill Hill Village
London NW7 4EB
Phone: 081 906 0212
Fax: 081 959 6253
Designers and producers of needlework, cross stitch and embroidery kits.
There is a U.S. distributor:
Glorafilia, Ltd.
510 Weadley Road
King of Prussia, PA 19406
The US catalog costs US$5.
Gripit
125 50th St. NW
Albuquerque NM 87105
Phone: 505-836-7239
Makers of the "Gripit" scroll stands.
The Heart's Content
Maureen P. Appleton
4440 Indian Trail
Green Bay WI 54313
Phone: 414-494-9434
Colonial Samplers, original designs, available in complete kit form with
linen and DMC floss, and silk gauze and Au Ver A Soie silks. Anne Brinkley
miniature box kits. Firescreens, candlescreens and chests. Catalogue
available for US$5.
Hedgehog Handworks
8406 Flight Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90045
Phone: 310-670-6040
Costs US$1. Concentrates on historical needlework and costuming. Fancy
specialty fibers, needlework tools, books, fantasy charts, costuming
supplies.
Herrschners
USA address:
2800 Hoover Road
Stevens Point WI 54492-0001
Phone: 1-800-441-0838 (orders)
1-800-713-1239 (service)
Fax: 1-715-341-2250
Canada address:
P.O. Box 1746
Toronto, ON
Canada M4G 4A3
Supplies for cross-stitch, knitting, crocheting, rug hooking, etc.
Charts available mostly in kits. Some supplies such as fabric and thread.
J & S Craft Stands
7166 Brooktree Way
San Jose CA 95120
Phone: 408-268-0524
Jean Mcintosh Limited
Phone: 1-800-665-1361
Judy Counts
2074 Rosecrest Drive
Bellbook, OH 45305-1819
Charts of racing cars including NASCAR, Indy, Grand Touring Prototype,
winged sprint and non-winged sprint. Also, fabrics with racing borders.
As of 1992, a price list cost US$1, refunded with the first order.
Karen Everson's MoonGate Design
44791 Windmill Dr
Canton, MI 48187
Lynn's Treasures
17 E. Main St.
Lock Haven PA 17745
Phone: 1-800-972-3852
717-748-2667
Accessories made from floral prints, with 14 count aida inserts or
medallions. Purses, book covers, all sorts of bags and packs.
Mardina Enterprises
1400 Village Sq. Blvd. Unit 3-106
Tallahassee, FL 32312
Marilyn's
4336 Plainfield NE
Grand Rapids MI 49505
Phone: 616-364-8411
Bound book. Good source for Stoney Creek patterns, fabrics, kits, threads,
books.
Mary Jane's Cross 'n Stitch
1948 Keim Court
Naperville, IL 60565-2809
Phone: 1-800-334-6819
708-963-9678
Fax: 708 963-9679
3-ring binder, approximate US$7.50 cost, refund when you order. Periodic
updates. Unusual fabrics, good collection of samplers. Belfast linen.
Mary Maxim
USA address:
2001 Holland Ave.
PO Box 5019
Port Huron, MI 48061-5019
Phone: 1-800-962-9504
Fax: 810-987-5056
Canada address:
75 Scott Avenue
Paris, Ontario
N3L 3Y2
Phone: 1-519-442-2266
A needlework and crafts catalog. Cross stitch, embroidery, needlepoint,
crochet, rug hooking, etc. Mostly kits, with some individual supplies.
They have a store at the Port Huron location and a very large store at the
Paris location.
Mickey Unlimited Cross Stitch Kits
Phone: 1-800-768-5878
Disney kits. Call the number above to find the source nearest you.
Mill Hill Publications
P.O. Box 1060
Janesville WI 53547
Phone: 1-800-447-1332
Producers of Mill Hill glass beads. They can tell you the location of the
store nearest to you which stocks their beads.
Nancy's Notions News
333 Beichl Avenue
PO Box 683
Beaver Dam, WI 53916-0683
Phone: 1-800-833-0690 (ordering)
414-887-0391
Fax: 1-800-255-8119
Shipping is US$4.25 for all orders. Percentage discounts for more expensive
orders.
Needle Arts
PO Box 1048
Meredith, NH 03253-1048
Phone: 1-800-643-9276
A source for the Lavender & Lace, Butternut Road, and Told in a Garden
designs by Marilyn Leavitt-Imblum.
Needle Arts, Inc.
2211 Monroe
Dearborn MI 48124
Phone: 313-278-6266
A store specializing in Japanese embroidery. Washable Zwicky silk thread.
_Very_ unusual fibers.
Needlecraft
Private Bag 11199
Palmerston North
NZ
Phone: (64) 6 356-4793
0508 633-353 (toll free in NZ only)
Fax: (64) 6 355-4594
A New Zealand shop which does mail order both in NZ and overseas. Delivery
is free in NZ if order is prepaid by check or credit card.
Their free VIP club provides members with a bi-monthly newsletter. Members
also receive a gift voucher for NZ$30 for each NZ$230 spent.
Charts, floss, fabrics, etc.
New Creation House
Phone: 1-800-561-0592
Nordic Needle
1314 Gateway Drive
Fargo ND 58103
Phone: 1-800-433-4321 (orders)
701-235-5231
Fax: 701-235-0952
Fantastic source for hardanger supplies. Very good selection of
fabrics and fibers for cross stitching as well. Good selection of
samplers. Color cards for Kreinik, DMC, Marlitt, etc. Dazor lamps, boxes,
charms. More kinds of embroidery scissors than I knew existed.
Peters And Sons Limited
Phone: 1-800-563-3100
Printers Inc.
301 Castro Street
Mountain View, CA 94041
Phone: 415-961-8500
This is a bookstore, not a needlework place. But they carry many foreign
needlework magazines and will ship via UPS.
Rainbow Gallery
7412 Fulton Avenue #5
North Hollywood CA 91605
Producers of specialty fibers.
Rajmahal
Australia address:
Rajmahal
Fosterville Road
Bagshot East
Victoria 3551
Phone: (054) 48 8551
UK address:
Needle Needs Ltd.
Unit 21A Silicon Centre
26/28 Wadsworth Road
Perivale
Middlesex UB6 7JD
Canada address:
see entry for Black Magnolia
Producers of fine silk embroidery thread.
Ross Originals
P.O. Box 67
Trinity Beach Queensland 4879
Australia
Designs, general themes and Australian-specific.
S & S Arts and Crafts
Phone: 1-800-243-9232
S.R. Kertzer Limited
Phone: 1-800-263-2354
Sarah May Designs
2 Hampton Street
Warwick
CV34 6HS
UK
Phone: 01926 499008
A source for designs by the British designer Sarah May. Mythological and
wildlife designs.
The Scarlet Letter
PO Box 397
Sullivan WI 53178
Reproductions of samplers from the past. Kits and charts for cotton or
silk thread, on linen only. Also books and embroidery supplies.
Catalog for US$3.
Serendipity Designs, Inc.
10901 Trade Road
Richmond VA 23236
Marbek angels
Shades at Mace and Nairn
89 Crane Street
Salisbury SP1 2PY
UK
Phone: 01722 336906
A shop which does mail order. Charts, kits, fibers, silks, metallics,
lace making.
Shepherd's Bush
220 24th Street
Ogden UT 84401
Phone: 801-399-4546
The catalog is US$2.
So Facile
Phone: 1-800-363-3090
Spinning Jenny
Bradley Nr. Keighly
West Yorkshire BD20 9DD
England
Phone: 01535 632469
Fax: 01535 636431
A shop in West Yorkshire, accepts international phone, fax, and mail order.
Carries most European kits. Designs from Lanarte, Permin, and Thea
Gouveneur. Charts available also. Catalogs cost £1.
Stitch and Frame
300 Ridge Road
Lafayette, LA 70506
Phone: 318-984-5538
The Stitchery
Department S225-1
120 N. Meadows Road
Medfield MA 02052-1592
Phone: 1-800-688-8051 (customer service)
1-800-388-9662 (orders)
Wide variety of kits.
Stitchers Source
Phone: 714-589-1718 (for computer BBS connection)
Email: <sti...@ibm.net>
WWW: <http://www.xmission.com/~arts/stitch/mainstit.html>
Fidonet: 1:103/985
Free catalog available on disk and hardcopy. All shipping free, in US and
Canada. Email your name and snail mail address to receive the free
catalog.
Stitchers Source is an online needlework mall, available via the Stitchers
Source BBS. They also do mail order.
Sue Lentz Needlework
HCR 1 Box 228
Athelstane WI 54104
Phone: 715-757-3619
Fax: 715-757-3300
Designs with many stitches and fibers.
Threads Through Time
450 Bedford Ct
Naperville IL 60540-700
Phone: 708-778-1037
Kit reproductions of antique American samplers. Large and small, linen and
silk gauze. Some books. Publisher asks for a US$2 donation.
Tomorrow's Treasures
19722 144th Ave. N.E.
Woodinville WA 98072
Phone: 1-800-882-8932
206-487-2636
FAX: 206-487-2513
The suppliers of the "E-Z Stitch" needlework frames and scroll stands.
Also have Dazor lights/magnifiers.
The Universal Stitcher
PO Box 581726
Minneapolis MN 55458-1726
Phone: 1-800-830-5027
Fax: 612-825-1161
Retailer for all Wichelt Imports products. Catalog costs US$3.
The Way of the Cross
PO Box 10304
Peoria IL 61612
Phone: 1-800-I-LOVE-XS (orders only)
(309) 692-DEBS (for chatting or researching)
3-ring binder, US $25.00. Good variety, large selection.
Wichelt Imports, Inc.
Rural Route 1
PO Box 139
Stoddard WI 54658
Phone: 608-788-4600
US importers for many European firms. Mostly a wholesaler. For retail
orders, see The Universal Stitcher
Ye Olde Cross Stitchery
119 Pond St
Bristol, PA
Phone: 215-785-0870
A store and a mail order business. Cross stitch and Hardanger supplies.
--------------------------------
7.2 Crafts Information Service
--------------------------------
The Crafts Information Service is a database of over 5,000 suppliers for all
types of crafts media. It is maintained by the PEI Crafts Council in
Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada. They enter a comprehensive index
for every catalogue and supply list they can get their hands on. This allows
for very detailed queries.
There is a FAQ available by anonymous ftp:
<ftp://gus.crafts-council.pe.ca/pub/craftsinfo.FAQ>
Access to the database itself, as well as other crafts related topics, is
available by the PEI Crafts Council Gopher:
<gopher://gopher.crafts-council.pe.ca:70/>
Most of the same information is also accessible by World Wide Web from the
PEI Crafts Council WWW Home Page:
<http://www.crafts-council.pe.ca/Welcome.html>
This is a non-profit organization. Services are provided on a pay-what-you-
think-it's-worth basis. Users are informed what it cost to query the database
and send the information. If they find the information useful, a donation may
be sent.
For more information about the Crafts Information Service, send email to
<in...@crafts-council.pe.ca>
-----------------------
7.3 Needlework Stores
-----------------------
A conscious decision was made not to list needlework stores in this FAQ.
There are so very many of them out there, and the contact information changes
rapidly. But all is not lost...
The International Needleart Retailer's Guild has a free booklet with the names
and addresses of more than 300 needlework specialty shops. They mention the
U.S, Canada, England, Australia, and "even Portugal."
Send a long Self-Addressed-Stamped-Envelope to:
INRG
PO Box 188
Department CSSAM
Pine Mountain GA 31822
--------------------
7.4 Finding Charts
--------------------
If you cannot find a particular chart from the obvious sources--stores,
friends, catalogs--don't give up. Some magazines have a chart finder or
chart swapping section. There are also businesses that specialize in this
area. Details for the one that has been mentioned in the news group are
given below.
Chart Connection
PO Box 575749
Murray UT 84157
Phone: 801-977-9048
Bi-monthly newsletter for people interested in buying and selling used
charts. Subscribers receive a 40-word listing per issue. US$16 per year
or US$4 per issue (applicable toward subscription). Send name, address
and first 40 word "Charts Wanted" or "For Sale" listing with payment.
==============================================================================
8. Books, Magazines and Videotapes
==============================================================================
---------------
8.1 Magazines
---------------
Craft stores (especially those which specialize in needlework) are good places
to find cross stitch magazines. Large bookstores with well-stocked magazine
sections are also worth checking.
Here is an alphabetical list of some of the available magazines. Not all of
the entries have complete address or phone information. Please let me know if
you have any corrections or additions. Descriptions are necessarily brief,
and are just intended to give a feel for the types of needlework included.
Anna
Germany
There is a U.S. distributor:
GLP International
PO Box 9868
Englewood NJ 07631-1123
Phone: (212) 736-7455
(201) 871-1010
A monthly needlework and crafts magazine published by Burda. The U.S.
version, in English, is US$40 a year. It has counted cross stitch,
embroidery, knitting, crocheting, and other crafts.
Australian Smocking & Embroidery
Country Bumpkin Publications
Box 194
Kent Town
South Australia 5071
Phone: (08) 364 1075
Fax: (08) 364 0479
Quarterly publication with full size patterns. From the same folks who
publish "Inspirations".
If ordering direct from the publisher, the costs are as follows:
Australia - A$34 for one year, A$68 for two years.
New Zealand and Pacific - A$54 for one year, A$108 for two years.
Overseas - A$66 for one year, A$132 for two years.
Subscriptions may be paid by credit card. Send your name, account number,
expiration date and signature to the above address.
Cartouche
6448 Freeman Ave
Byron, NY 14422
Phone: 1-800-716-6430
Email: <cart...@f129.n260.z1.fidonet.org>
A craft magazine available _only_ in electronic hypertext format. Topics
include quilting, rug hooking, woodworking, and many forms of needle arts.
Each issue contains over 3 megabytes of information and patterns in both
text and graphic (PCX) formats. Only IBM based PC's are supported.
It requires an HD disk drive, hard drive, EGA graphics.
Individual Issues .......................... US$3.50
Yearly subscription (6 issues on disk) ..... US$14.00
Yearly subscription (6 issues via modem) ... US$8.00
Back Issues ................................ US$3.50
Celebrations
PO Box 420207
Palm Coast FL 32142-0207
Phone: 1-800-829-9154
Classic Stitches
Subscribers Dept
80 Kingsway East
Dundee DD4 8SL
Scotland
Phone: 01382 23131 Ext. 3241 (for credit card subscriptions)
Office address:
D C Thomson & Co Ltd
Albert Square
Dundee DD1 9QJ
Scotland
Six issues a year for £13.25 (U.K.). Subscriptions may be paid by
Visa or Mastercard.
Many types of needlework. Wide variety of articles. Iron-on transfers.
Craft/Crafts
PO Box 441
Ponderay ID 83852
Four issues a year for US$13. Designs for Pagan stitchers and crafters.
Crafts Plus
130 Spy Court
Markham ON
L3R 5H6
This Canadian magazine has a variety of crafts, with some needlework. A one
year subscription is CD$28 plus GST. Foreign subscribers add CD$10.
Creative Needle
1 Apollo Road
Lookout Mountain GA 30750
Phone: 706-820-2600 (business)
1-800-443-3127 (subscription)
Cross Country Stitching
pub. Jeremiah Junction, Inc.
PO Box 710
Manchester CT 06045
Phone: 203-646-0665
Cross Stitch & Country Crafts
6060 Spine Road
PO Box 52416
Boulder CO 80323-2416
Phone: 1-800-234-0740
Published by Craftways
PO Box 56829
Boulder CO 80322-6829
Phone: 1-800-234-0740
Six issues a year for US$19.97. Other countries add US$6.
Cross Stitch Australia
see listing for "Jill Oxton's Cross Stitch Australia"
Cross Stitch! Magazine
pub. The Needlecraft Shop, Inc.
23 Old Pecan Rd
Big Sandy TX 75755-2218
Variety of topics and levels of difficulty.
Cross-Stitch Plus
pub. House of White Birches
PO Box 420235
Palm Coast FL 32142
Phone: 1-800-829-5865
Nothing too difficult in this magazine, mostly easy patterns.
Cross Stitch Sampler
pub. NKS Publications Inc.
PO Box 627
Mt. Morris IL 61054--0627
Phone: 815-734-1111
This magazine is not limited to samplers. They show a variety of
techniques, fabrics and fibers. Many heirloom projects. Six issues a year
for US$16.95.
The Cross Stitcher
pub. Clapper Publishing Co., Inc.
PO Box 7521
Red Oak IA 51591-0521
Phone: 1-800-444-0441
Six issues a year. Some quick projects, many projects per issue.
In US - US$14.97.
In Canada - US$23.00.
Other countries - US$21.95.
For Love of Cross Stitch
pub. Leisure Arts
PO Box 420133
Palm Coast FL 32142-0133
Phone: 1-800-829-9152
They show a variety of techniques, fabrics and fibers.
Inspirations Magazine
Country Bumpkin Publications
Box 194
Kent Town
South Australia 5071
Phone: (08) 364 1075
Fax: (08) 364 0479
Quarterly publication with stunning photography, fold out patterns and
detailed instructions. Projects for beginning and advanced stitchers.
Iron-on patterns. Many types of embroidery.
If ordering direct from the publisher, the costs are as follows:
Australia - A$30 for one year, A$60 for two years.
New Zealand and Pacific - A$50 for one year, A$100 for two years.
Overseas - A$62 for one year, A$124 for two years.
Subscriptions may be paid by credit card. Send your name, account number,
expiration date and signature to the above address. (Note--It took one
week from the day I phoned them in Australia and gave them my credit card
number to the day the magazine arrived in my mail in California.)
The distributor in Canada is:
Transmedia Group Ltd.
202B Sammon Ave
Toronto, Ontario
M4J 1Z2
Phone: 1-800-461-1640
The cost is C$63.50 for six issues, shipping and taxes included. Back
issues are available for C$9.45. Orders must be placed in writing.
Available at some U.S. shops for US$15.50 per issue. Known sightings--
Sweet Child of Mine (Sunnyvale, CA), Garden Fairies Trading Company
(Sebastopol, CA, 1-800-925-9919).
Please note that Country Bumpkin Publications also publishes "Australian
Smocking & Embroidery".
Jill Oxton's Cross Stitch Australia
Jill Oxton Publications PTY. Ltd.
A.C.N. 054 893 926
PO Box 283
Park Holme, South Australia 5043
Phone: (08) 276 2722
Marketed as "Cross Stitch Australia" in Australia and "Jill Oxton's Cross
Stitch" in the U.K.
Six issues per year. Occasional specials give one seven issues for the
price of six. A special volume is issued once a year, for an additional
fee, which is usually centered on one theme.
Subscription rate within Australia is A$63. Subscription
from Australia to the U.S. is A$78 by economy air.
Designs range from simple to complex. A mix between Australian (flora,
fauna, places) and more general pictures.
Just Cross Stitch
PO Box 5258
Harlan, IA 51593-2758
Phone: 1-800-829-9148
1-800-768-5878 (Disney)
Published by Symbol of Excellence Publishers, Inc.
405 Riverhills Business Park
Birmingham AL 35242
Phone: 205-995-8860
The name is misleading. Techniques other than cross stitch are included.
They sell their own kits, and have a lot of Theresa Wentzler designs.
Six issues a year for US$16.98. Canada and Mexico add $6 postage. All
other countries add $12.
Licensees for Disney patterns.
Leisure Arts: The Magazine
pub. Leisure Arts
PO Box 420222
Palm Coast FL 32142-0222
Phone: 1-800-829-9152
Good magazine, not all cross stitch, but always has some good cross stitch
designs.
Six issues a year for US$24 at the newstand, less for subscriptions.
Mary Hickmott's New Stitches
PO Box 663
Carrollton GA 30117
Creative Crafts Publishing, Ltd.
The Old Grain Store
Brenley Lane
Brenley
Faversham
Kent ME13 9LY
0227750215
U.K.
Nice change-of-style magazine for those used to the U.S. ones.
From: Marina Salume <quil...@marny.Corp.Sun.COM>...
Most of the designs are not very intricate however, they are aimed at
beginning to intermediate stitchers. She does include lessons in how to
design pictorial scenes in each issue which might be helpful even for
advanced stitchers.
It seems to be fairly easy to find Mary Hickmott's magazine in the U.S.,
I've seen it at fabric stores as well as on newsstands.
McCalls' Needlework and Crafts
pub. Symbol of Excellence Publishers, Inc.
PO Box 3218
Harlan IA 51537
Phone: 1-800-289-3553 (subscription information)
1-800-827-0374 (back issues)
1-800-634-7720 (project questions)
New magazine with a variety of techniques.
Needlecraft, Needlecraft's Cross Stitch Collection
Subscription department:
Future Publishing
Cary Court, Somerton,
Somerset, TA11 6TB
England
Editorial department:
Beauford Court
30 Monmouth St
Bath
Avon
BA1 2BW
England
Phone: 01225 442244
Needlecraft has 12 issues a year, for £22 in the U.K. and £53.80 overseas
airmail. Each issue comes with a small kit. Needlecraft covers a variety
of stitching techniques, including quilting, cross stitch, and embroidery
of all types.
Needlecraft's Cross Stitch Collection has 4 issues a year, for £15.80 in
the UK and £25.40 overseas. It also comes with a kit on each issue. It
only deals with cross stitch.
From: Marina Salume <quil...@marny.Corp.Sun.COM>...
The Needlecraft magazines are more expensive but that is because they
come with little kits taped to the front cover. Most are for cross
stitch cards but there have also been needlework-covered buttons, long-
stitch pictures, blackwork, etc. Needlecraft and Needlework magazines
cover a wide range of embroidery, while the other magazines are
obviously focused on cross stitch. I love them all! Many of the designs
are for beginners, however.
Needlework, Needlework Cross Stitch, Needlework Embroidery
pub. Litharne Ltd,
PO Box 9
Stratford-upon-Avon
Warwickshire
CV37 8BR
England
It is possible for foreigners to subscribe to these magazines directly.
There is also a U.S. distributor:
Needlework Magazine
PO Box 389038
Cincinnati OH 45238-9038
Phone: 513-922-4403
Fax: 513-922-9390
South Africa distibutor:
Intermag
CNA Building
12 Laub Street
New Centre
Johannesburg SA
Phone: (011) 493-3200
Needlework has 12 issues a year for £27 in the U.K. It covers a range of
needlework techniques. The Cross Stitch version covers only cross stitch.
The magazines have pattern supplements--sections with extra patterns. They
also have special offers for kits and books.
The Needleworker
6680 Alhambra Ave #202
Martinez, CA. 94553
More a newsletter than a magazine, it's brought to you by some of the
former staff of Cross Stitch and Country Crafts. Reports say that it has
a lot of good designs packed into its short length.
Four issues for US$14.95, CA$16.95. Send a check or money order payable in
US dollars to the address given above. Include name, address, city, state
or province, zip or postal code, and phone number.
Simply Cross Stitch
pub. The Needlecraft Shop, Inc.
23 Old Pecan Rd.
Big Sandy TX 75755-2218
Easy patterns, simple designs, good for those "need in a hurry" projects.
Stoney Creek Cross Stitch Collection
pub. Stoney Creek Collection, Inc.
4336 Plainfield NE
Grand Rapids MI 49505-1614
Phone: 1-800-243-1410
Challenging patterns, lots of colors. Have a series of patterns matching
a given theme, to be worked on an afghan.
ThreadNeedle Street
850 South Main
PO Box 222
New London TX 75682-9979
ThreadNeedle Street has six issues a year. Its designs are modern
adaptations of historic patterns. Many needlework techniques are used,
such as crochet, cross stitch, quilting, knitting, needlepoint, etc.
Town and Country Needlecraft
Federal Publishing Company
PO Box 199
Alexandria NSW 2015
AUSTRALIA
Phone: 008 800 933 (toll free)
+61 2 353 9992
Fax: +61 2 353 0967
For six issues, the costs are as follows:
Australia - A$19.70
USA and Canada - A$57
UK and Europe - A$60
Wide variety of needlecraft projects aimed at a range of skill levels.
Past issues have included cross stitch, patchwork, crochet, sewing,
knitting, embroidery and smocking. Every issue also includes a pattern
insert.
--------------------
8.2 Magazine Index
--------------------
Now you have subscriptions to half-a-dozen of the magazines listed above, and
you can't remember _where_ you saw that cute pattern that would be just
perfect for your best friend's new baby. Never fear. An index of cross
stitch magazines and their patterns is available.
The Cross-Stitch Index
The Sewing Room
PO Box 424
Dept. JC1294
Fulton MD 20759
Phone: 301-776-5540
Available as a book or digitally (on many formats of computer disk).
The 11"x8.5" paperback book contains a 10 year index of 34 magazines. The cost
is US$12.95 plus $3 shipping (or $5 shipping for foreign orders). Supplements
are provided semiannually ($5.95 plus $2 shipping) or annually ($7.95 plus $2
shipping).
The digital version costs US$19.95 and goes all the way back to include premier
issues.
Comments...
From: Patty Andersen <pand...@silver.sdsmt.edu>...
This particular volume is divided into "themes", for example, Amish,
Colonial, Insects, Jewish, Love, etc. Fascinating and fairly easy to work
with. The only thing I don't like is that they bound it as an 8 1/2 X 11
book, but the pages are printed as 11 X 8 1/2. It's annoying to have to
turn the book sideways to read it. Minor complaint, but you know how it
goes.
-------------------------
8.3 Books and Pamphlets
-------------------------
There are many, many books available to help you learn different counted
thread and embroidery techniques. It is beyond the scope of this FAQ to list
them all, but here are some of the books or book sellers which have
been mentioned in rec.crafts.textiles.needlework or in its predecessor
rec.crafts.textiles. Not all of the entries have complete address or phone
information.
Art of Blackwork Embroidery
by R. Drysdale
The Art of Silk Ribbon Embroidery
by Judith Baker Montano
C&T Publishing
PO Box 1456, Lafayette CA 94549
Blackwork
by M. Gostelow
Blackwork and Holbein Embroidery
by I. Alturrs
Charted Folk Designs for Cross Stitch
by M. Foris
Charted Peasant Designs from Saxon Transylvania
by H. Kiewe
Designs for Shadow Work & Fine Embroidery
by Donna Krezelak
Designs for Shadow Work and Fine Embroidery II
by Lane Edwards
Dover Publications Inc.
180 Varick Street
New York NY 10014
General Publishing Company Ltd.
30 Lesmill Road, Don Mills
Toronto Ontario
Constable and Company Ltd.
10 Orange Street
London WC2H 7EG.
Ask for their catalog of needlework publications. Some of the entries are:
Needlework Alphabets
Blackwork Embroidery by E. Geddes and M. McNeill, ISBN 0-486-23245-X
Danish Floral Charted Designs by Gerda Bengtsson
Annie Orr's Charted Designs
First Steps in Counted Cross Stitch
by Rita Weiss
ISBN: 0-88195-157-9
ASN Publishing
1455 Linda Vista Drive
San Marcos CA 92069
Gestickte Bilderbogen: Alte Mustertuecher aus Museen und Privatbesitz
(in German)
(Stitched Samplers: Old Samplers from Museums and Private Property)
by Irmgard Gierl
Weltbild Verlag GmbH, Augsburg 1991,
published with license from: Sueddeutscher Verlag GmbH, Muenchen
ISBN 3-89350-391-9
Historic samplers from around the world, with color photographs and charts.
Dates from around 1800.
Hard-To-Find Needlework Books
Bette Feinstein
96 Roundwood Rd.
Newton MA 02164
Phone: 617-969-0942
Email: <fein...@umbsky.cc.umb.edu>
Hardanger - Basics and Beyond, Hardanger - Fundamentals Made Fancy
by Janice Love
Love'n'Stitches
145 Whippoorwhil Circle
Athens GA 30605
Phone: 706-549-1351
Introduction to Counted Cross Stitch Embroidery, Book #15
Graphworks International Inc.
PO Box 352
400 Old Two Mile Pike
Goodlettsville TN 37072
Phone: 1-800-826-1998
615-859-1201
FAX: 615-851-7100
Die schoensten Stickmuster aus alter Zeit
(in German)
(The Most Beautiful Stitch-Patterns from Older Times)
Assortment: Reiher: rosenheimer Raritaeten.
Publisher: rosenheimer Verlag
ISBN 3-475-52769-3
Historic samplers, few photos. Charts for parts of samplers, such as
borders and alphabets. Useful for creating your own sampler in an antique
style.
Reversible Blackwork.
by I. Alturrs
Sampler and Antique Needlework: A Year in Stitches, 1994
Symbol of Excellence Publishers
405 Riverhills Business Park
Dept. E410E
Birmingham AL 35242
Phone: 1-800-768-5878
144 pages. US$24.95 plus US$3.75 for shipping and handling.
Shadow Work: The Easy Way
by Martha Pullen
Martha Pullen Co., 1989
Huntsville AL
Shadow Work Embroidery: Confectionery Dreams
by Wendy Regan
A Treasury of Jewish Cross Stitch: A Collection for Holidays and Celebrations
by Barbara Ann Richter
Graphworks Inc.
400 Two Mile Pike
Goodlettsville TN 37072
Phone: 1-800-826-1998
615-859-1201
25 pages. Large and small patterns.
Victorian Ribbon & Lacecraft Designs
by Mary Jo Hiney
Sterling Publishing Company, Inc.
387 Park Ave. S.
New York, N.Y. 10016
----------------
8.4 Videotapes
----------------
Embroidery Studio
WKPC-TV
PO Box 37380
Louisville KY 40233-7380
Phone: 1-800-342-9572
Originally brodcast on PBS in the U.S., these lessons are sold in sets of
13 lessons for US$60 plus shipping and handling. The lessons are fit onto
three or four videotapes per set. All lessons are taught by Shay Pendray.
Instructional books, leaflets and kits are available individually. Call
the company for more information.
Spirit of Cross Stitch Video Library
6000 Meadowbrook Mall Ct., Suite 3A
Clemmons NC 27012
Phone: 910-766-5180
From the same people who bring you the Spirit of Cross Stitch Festival. A
video library of stitching techniques, sent one a month for an annual cost
of US$239.40 or a monthly cost of US$22.95. Topics include (but are not
limited to) Hardanger, Duplicate Stitch, Drawn Thread, Ruskin Lace,
Blackwork, Whitework, Pulled Thread and Stitching on Silk. A complimentary
tape is included with the first tape. A free bonus program is included
every three months.
Tomorrow's Treasures
19722 144th Ave. N.E.
Woodinville WA 98072
Phone: 1-800-882-8932
206-487-2636
FAX: 206-487-2513
The video "Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Cross Stitch" is a
taped version of the class these folks give at the Spirit of Cross Stitch
Festival and the Creative Festival. Good for beginners and for people who
want to produce frighteningly neat backs.
==============================================================================
9. Creating Your Own Charts
==============================================================================
-----------------------------------
9.1 From a Photo - Do It Yourself
-----------------------------------
Suppose you have a favorite photograph which you _know_ would look just
wonderful as a cross stitch picture. It is possible for you to create the
chart yourself, with patience, graph paper and a photocopier. There are
several variations in the basic technique, but all involve placing a grid onto
a copy of the photo.
Plastic transparencies with a variety of grid sizes are available from many
craft stores under the brand names "TransGraph-X" or "Easy Grid". If you
cannot find these transparencies, you may be able to make your own by
photocopying graph paper onto the kind of plastic sheets used with overhead
projectors.
Lay the transparency over a picture or photograph, and photocopy them at the
same time. If you can find a place to do a color photocopy, all the better.
This gives something that can be used as the start of your chart. You will
still need to make decisions as to thread colors.
Another method is to trace the picture before putting it on any kind of graph.
Below is one person's approach:
From: Lisa Balbes <bal...@osiris.rti.org>...
I did this on a comic book cover, but the principle will apply for any
picture. You'll need to:
1. Start with a rather large copy of the picture, perhaps slightly smaller
than you want the finished picture to be. (Blowing it up on a copier is
much cheaper than getting a big print - you can use black and white copy
if it's high contrast, otherwise blow it up in color.
2. Trace the picture onto graph paper, 20 squares to the inch is a good
size. Remember to trace the outlines of all shapes, as well as
backstitching lines (where needed to define the shapes). Decide how
much shading you will do, and outline regions accordingly.
3. Take the tracing and use it to make a pattern on graph paper (10
squares to the inch for this part). In this stage you will decide which
will be 1/4 stitches, what will be 3/4 stitches, etc. You will "square
off" all the curves. There are 2 reasons for this step - you get a
bigger pattern to work from, and you make all the decisions now, instead
of when stitching.
4. Take the _original_ picture to your favorite store with a good display
of floss. (You can do this at home if you have a stitcher's card that
displays pieces of each color of floss.) Choose the colors, noting not
only what is closest to the color of the real thing, but what colors
work together.
5. If you now work the piece on 18 count fabric, it will turn out slightly
larger than the copy you traced. (I prefer to work over 2 threads on 36
count linen.)
Be sure and look at the thread colors and fabric color under natural lighting
before stitching. The flourescent lights used in some stores can fool
your eye.
--------------------------------
9.2 From a Photo - Mail It Off
--------------------------------
There are companies which will turn pictures you send them into charts. The
floss colors are figured out for you, usually in DMC and Anchor numbers. The
cost is US$20-US$50, on average. You can find companies advertising in most
cross stitch magazines.
Herrschners, Inc.
Hoover Road
Stevens Point WI 54492
Phone: 1-800-441-0838
Graph only - US$28.99. Graph plus 15x18" piece of 14-ct. aida fabric -
US$33.99. Graph, DMC Floss pack and Free 14-ct. aida fabric - US$49.99.
ImagiStitch
4839 E. Greenway, #216
Scottsdale AZ 85254
MagiKraft
Dept. I
105 S. Park St.
Westmont IL 60559
Phone: 708-960-9010
US$25 for pattern only, US$45 for a full kit (pattern, fabric, needle,
thread), US$5 additional to remove backgrounds. You specify final project
size and thread count (fabric type). DMC thread.
PhotoStitch Ltd.
West One House, 23 St. Georges Road,
Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL50 4Dt
U.K.
Phone: (01242) 226651
Photo Pattern Company
Department M
P.O. Box 1525
Poulbso WA 98370-0169
Phone: 206-779-2437
US$19.95 plus $2 shipping and handling. Cross stitch, needlepoint or
latch hook. Stitch count of 150x120.
Preferred Services
Crafts Division
Dept. C24
457 Main Street, Suite #139
Farmingdale NY 11735
US$19.95.
Stitch-a-Photo
US$30 plus $2 S&H in the US.
------------------------------------------------------
9.3 Use a Computer - Original Design or From a Photo
------------------------------------------------------
The high tech way to make your own charts is with a computer. There are
programs available which can help convert a scanned image into a chart.
Others let you create your own design.
In the interest of saving space, the "charting" software is grouped with other
cross stitch related software in another section of this FAQ--"10.2 Computer
Software For Cross Stitch".
==============================================================================
10. Computers and Cross Stitch
==============================================================================
----------------------------------
10.1 Discussion Groups and BBS's
----------------------------------
Since this is the Counted Cross Stitch FAQ for rec.crafts.textiles.needlework,
and you are reading it, I'm going to assume that you know how to access the
Internet and its news groups.
There are other discussion groups and BBS's available to you. Some are from
the big commercial services, such as CompuServe and Delphi. Others are more
of a mom-and-pop operation. Both kinds can be wonderful sources of
information and software.
America OnLine
---------------
Type the keyword "Exchange" and select "Crafts Sewing". Work your way
through the obvious selections to reach the Needlecrafts Board.
The Friday night real-time Stitch Chat sessions start at 10 PM Eastern time.
Select "Lobby" from the "Go To" menu, then select "Rooms", then "Available
Rooms", then "Member Rooms", then "Create Room". Type "Stitch Chat" as the
name of the room you wish to create.
The Thursday night real-time Stitch Chat sessions start at 9 PM Eastern. It
also meets in "Stitch Chat".
CompuServe
-----------
Go hang out in the Crafts Forum.
The Crafts Board
-----------------
From a posting on 1 Mar 1994 by HollandCom <holla...@aol.com>...
The Crafts Board-
Over 50 downloadable craft files, 30 different craft related forums, online
experts like Gail Brown, online and downloadable craft magazines, Online
Crafts Shopping Mall with 1000's of craft products(under construction
opening in late March), Online Arts&Crafts Show database with over 2000
listings Real time chat line, ANSI and Rip compatible and much more.
BBS number (205)339-0722
voice/fax (205)333-8045
Internet connection coming soon!
A service of Holland Communications
Delphi
-------
The Textile Arts Forum (Custom Forum 135) is for people interested in all the
textile arts, including needlework. Live conferences. Database of shareware,
gifs and text files. Contact the host, Susan Druding
<drud...@delphi.com>, for more info.
Fibernet
---------
A BBS operated dedicated to the fiber arts, crafts, and technology. Operated
by Ron Parker. Dial 218-583-4337 from a modem, at 8N1, 1200-28800 bps. From
a January, 1993 message by Ron:
You are asked to leave a message introducing yourself before I validate you
for full downloading privs. If you are unfamiliar with BBS use, send me a
long SASE at Fibernet, Rt. 1 Box 153, Henning, MN 56551. Fibernet is free
by the way - except for your phone call...
Fibernet nodes:
The Alaska Pirate Society BBS, Anchorage, AK at 907-562-9364 and 9365
The Funny Farm BBS, Lake Villa, IL at 708-548-2576
The Kitchen Table BBS, San Francisco Bay area at 510-547-7747
Some Sunny Day BBS, Connersville, IN at 317-825-5044
Stitchers Source
-----------------
A needlework-only BBS at 714-589-1718 with connections to Fidonet at
1:103/985. They currently carry FIDO conferences relating to needlework. To
reach the sysops via the Internet, send email to <sti...@ibm.net>.
Stitchers Source has an online needlework mall, available via the BBS. They
also do mail order. A free catalog available on disk and hardcopy. All
shipping free, to any country. Email your name and snail mail address to
receive the free catalog.
------------------------------------------
10.2 Computer Software For Cross Stitch
------------------------------------------
There are many commercial and shareware computer programs available to help
you create charts or inventory your supplies. A list of those which have been
mentioned in rec.crafts.textiles.needlework or in its predecessor
rec.crafts.textiles is given below. Check your favorite cross stitch magazine
for advertisements of commercial products. These have the most up-to-date
information.
This list is for informational purposes only, and is not meant as a
recommendation. This document is provided as is, with no warranties or
guarantees of any kind either expressed or implied. No endorsement or value
judgement is expressed or implied.
Version numbers and file locations change rapidly. Some of this information
may be out of date or incomplete. Please notify me if you have any additions
or corrections.
Finding the software...
Commercial - Addresses are given for commercial products.
Internet - In general, I chose not to list Internet archive locations for
the shareware, as there are so many archives out there. Some
sites that contain one or more programs are:
<ftp://ftp.wustl.edu/>
<ftp://oak.oakland.edu/SimTel/msdos/graphics/>
<ftp://oak.oakland.edu/simtel/win3/info/>
<ftp://doc.ic.ac.uk/recreation/crafts/fido-cfdn/>
<ftp://ftp.uwp.edu/pub/msdos/fido/>
CompuServe - Library 5 of the Crafts Forum.
Delphi - Textile Arts Forum
Fibernet - See previous section for information on how to reach Fibernet.
STCUG - Seattle Textile Computer User's Group (STCUG). STCUG has
several disks for IBM and Mac (US$4 each) and the FIBERbits
newsletter (US$18). Contact them at P.O. Box 17506, Seattle
WA 98107.
And finally, here is the list...
ColorKnit
----------
Platform: Mac
Type/Cost: Shareware, US$15
Version: 3.0
Where to Find: Paul Duffy, 71 Oxford Street, Somerville MA 02143
Delphi (COLKNT.SEA)
A color, grid-based program. Even though this program is intended for
knitting patterns, it can easily be adapted for counted cross stitch or
any craft that relies on grids.
CompuStitch
------------
Platform: PC DOS
Type/Cost: Shareware, US$20
Version: 3.1
Where to Find: CompuServe (CSTCGA.EXE, CSTVGA.EXE), Fibernet (CSTCGA.EXE,
CSTVGA.EXE), STCUG
Design cross-stitch patterns up to 180x180. The VGA version can use up to
142 colors, the CGA/EGA version can use 3 colors. Both support whole
stitches, 1/4 stitches, back stitches and french knots. The VGA version
supplies DMC numbers and prints a color list.
Cross Stitch (?)
-----------------
Platform: PC Windows
Type/Cost: Commercial, Cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find: CompuServe (demo - XSDEMO.ZIP)
Design cross stitch patterns. Full stitch, back stitch. Sixteen colors.
Pattern size calculator. Scalable printing. Animated colors.
Cross Stitch (?)
-----------------
Platform: Mac
Type/Cost: Shareware, Cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find: Delphi (CROSSSTITCH FOR MAC)
Cross Stitch viewer for MacIntosh. Used to view color versions of cross
stitch designs. For best results use on machines with 16 bit color.
Required: 32 bit QuickDraw.
Cross Stitch (?)
-----------------
Platform: Mac
Type/Cost:
Version:
Where to Find: <ftp://ftp.andrew.cmu.edu/pub/PSarch/filters-mac/>
A filter for Adobe Photoshop that converts small images into charts.
Limit of 52 black-and-white symbols.
Cross-Stitch Designer
----------------------
Platform: PC Windows
Type/Cost: Shareware, US$30
Version: 2.1c
Where to Find: R. Scott Horton, HobbyWare, 9686 Spruce Lane, Fishers IN
46038
CompuServe (xstit21c.zip), Fibernet (xstit21c.zip)
Not the same as the MasterStitch CrossStitch Designer mentioned below.
Design cross stitch patterns. Full, half, quarter and back stitches. Grid
size up to 999x999, with 30 colors. DMC thread list. Bitmap importing.
View and edit in stitch, symbolic, and solid display modes.
CrossStitch Designer
---------------------
Platform: PC DOS, Windows compatible?
Type/Cost: Commercial, US$149.95
Version: 3.0
Where to Find: MasterStitch Designs, Inc., PO Box 6283, Kent WA 98064-6283.
206-413-1054 or 206-850-3302
Canadian Distributor: Tai-pan Video & Computer,
RR#2 Box 2590, Clearwater, B.C. V0E 1N0. 604-674-2442
CompuServe (demo - MSCSD.EXE, description - MSCSD.TXT)
Not the same as the HobbyWare Cross-Stitch Designer mentioned above.
Paint style design program. Select up to 120 DMC colors from the 390
available. Grid size up to 200x190. Print picture chart and color/symbol
chart.
Companion product Color ImageImport (US$49.95) converts any 320x200x256 PCX
or GIF image into DMC colors.
CrossMagic
-----------
Platform: PC DOS
Type/Cost: Shareware, US$30
Version: 2.02
Where to Find: See instructions below
Info from the author, Murray Moffatt <Mur...@kcbbs.gen.nz>...
CrossMagic allows you to enter and maintain details on all your threads and
charts. It'll print reports on what threads you've run out of and need to
buy again, which charts you can make with your existing stock of floss,
what floss you need to buy to make a particular chart, inventory lists,
it'll even let you enter a search text and will list all the charts you own
that pertain to that subject. Comes with a complete catalogue of DMC &
Anchor Embroidery Floss, Balger/Krenik Filament, DMC Flower Thread, Balger
Ribbon. Evenweave conversion is catered for, and there is comprehensive
on-line help for all options.
A fully registered version of CrossMagic is available directly from the
author at the following address:
Model Systems
P.O. Box 40-047
Glenfield
Auckland 1310
NEW ZEALAND
An evaluation copy of CrossMagic is available for downloading from
CompuServe in the CRAFTS forum (library 5, XMAGIC.ZIP) or directly from us
for the price of US$6.00 (this is to cover the cost of the disk and
postage and handling).
The registration is US$30.00, and includes the program, a professionally
printed manual, postage and handling, and by special arrangement with two
other shareware authors we have been granted permission to include two
cross-stitch charting programs; GIFXTS for DOS, and Cross-Stitch Designer
for Windows (these two additional programs are provided for you to evaluate
and must be registered with their original authors if you decide to use
them after the evaluation period).
In addition to the above package, we have a library of charts that are
compatible with Cross-Stitch Designer. This collection of 222 charts (2.5
megabytes worth) covers many different subjects. The library is available
for only US$20.00, or if you order CrossMagic at the same time then you can
purchase the library for only US$10.00!
If you are a CompuServe user then you may pay for CrossMagic via the CIS
Shareware Registration Service. Simply GO SWREG and follow the prompts.
CrossMagic's registration ID is 1847. The registration fee of US$30.00
will be added to your next CIS account. If paying by this option then
please allow 60 days for delivery of your manual and software.
If you live in New Zealand then you may pay us directly by mailing your
registration to:
Model Systems
P.O. Box 40047
Glenfield
Auckland 1310
NEW ZEALAND
New Zealand users must pay by cheque only (we don't accept credit
cards).
If you live in the United States of America or anywhere else in the world,
then you can pay by credit card. You can order with MC, Visa, Amex, or
Discover from Public (software) Library by calling 800-2424-PsL or
713-524-6394 or by FAX to 713-524-6398. You can also mail credit card
orders to PsL at P.O.Box 35705, Houston, TX 77235-5705. CrossMagic is
PsL item #11420.
*** THE ABOVE NUMBERS ARE FOR ORDERS ONLY ***
Any questions about the status of the shipment of the order, refunds,
registration options, product details, technical support, volume discounts,
dealer pricing, site licenses, etc, must be directed to Model Systems.
To insure that you get the latest version, PsL will notify us the day of
your order and we will ship the product directly to you.
If you have further inquiries, please direct them to:
Internet: Mur...@kcbbs.gen.nz
CompuServe: Murray Moffatt [100240,1477]
Crstitch
---------
Platform: PC Windows
Type/Cost: Shareware, cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find: Hank Hagquist <han...@delphi.com>
Imports BMP and PCX format pictures. Converts the colors to DMC numbers.
Allows you to select the mesh size, and helps to fit the picture to it.
Can be printed out in color or with DMC color codes.
DMC Database Management System
-------------------------------
Platform: PC DOS
Type/Cost: Shareware, US$10.00
Version: 1.0
Where to Find: CompuServe (DMC.ZIP), Fibernet (DMC.ZIP), STCUG
Database for supplies, patterns and DMC floss. Helps keep track of what
you have and what you need. Prints labels of floss colors.
DMC Inventory Program
----------------------
Platform: PC DOS
Type/Cost: Shareware, cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find: CompuServe (DMCINV.ZIP), Fibernet (DMCINV.ZIP)
Inventory DMC colors and supplies.
EasyGrapher Backstitch, EasyGrapher Specialty , EasyGrapher Deluxe
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Platform: PC
Type/Cost: Commercial, cost varies with program
Version:
Where to Find: Easy Grapher, Davis Computer Services, Inc., P.O. Box 70175,
New Orleans, LA 70175. 800-231-3480, 504-899-9706
CompuServe (demos - EGBZIP.EXE, EGSZIP.EXE, EGXZIP.EXE,
EGZIP.EXE)
STCUG (demos)
Design needlework graphs. Programmed tutorial available as EGZIP.EXE.
EasyGrapher Specialty is for Bargello, Hardanger, plastic canvas, drawn
thread work, etc. EasyGrapher Deluxe is for cross stitch. Up to 11,900
backstitch lines can be added with EasyGrapher Backstitch.
GIF2XTS
--------
See PCX2CCS.
Macintosh Color CrossStitch Viewing
------------------------------------
Platform: Macintosh
Type/Cost: Non-commercial, cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find: CompuServe (CROSSS.SEA)
Used to view a color version of a cross-stitch. Works best on machines with
thousands or millions of colors.
Needlework
-----------
Platform: Macintosh
Type/Cost: Shareware, US$20
Version:
Where to Find: EduCorp catalog - 800-843-9497
From a 1993 posting by Vicki Brown <v...@Apple.COM>...
There is a shareware program called Needlework, for the Macintosh. The
graphing area is 90x90 with a choice of 28 symbols. Each symbol can
have a color attached, to be printed as a key. You can also draw lines
for backstitching and enter instructions. The version I have (2.2)
won't read in an existing picture and chart it, and it is b&w only.
Maybe the author will improve it. If you send the author $20 you'll get
the newest version personalized for you.
Needlework Pattern Design Program
----------------------------------
Platform: PC DOS
Type/Cost: Shareware, US$39
Version: 2.3
Where to Find: CompuServe (XSZIP.EXE), Fibernet (XSZIP.EXE), STCUG
Design cross-stitch patterns. GIF import and export. Half stitches and
french knots. Symbols.
PCX2CCS
--------
Platform: PC DOS (4.0 or higher)
Type/Cost: Shareware, US$40.00
Version: 1.0
Where to Find: Chris O'Donnell (<chr...@delphi.com> on Internet;
CHRISOD on Delphi; 70431,1427 on CompuServe)
PO Box 113, Middlebury CT 06762
CompuServe (CRAFTS forum in library #5)
Delphi (Custom Forum 135 database)
Fibernet
STCUG
Internet (<ftp://oak.oakland.edu/SimTel/msdos/graphics/>)
Formerly GIF2XTS. This new program creates cross stitch charts from PCX
files rather than GIF files. It is otherwise identical to version 5.8 of
GIF2XTS.
The default setup of PCX2CCS is a maximum image size of 640x480. The
default screen resolution is dependent on the monitor: EGA will be 640x350,
16 colors; non-sVGA will be 640x480, 16 colors; sVGA will be 640x480 256
colors. The graphics resolution can be changed to run as high as 1024x768
with 256 colors, provided your monitor can support the different
resolutions. The maximum image size can also be changed. The largest
possible image size is dependent on the amount of free XMS, EMS or virutal
memory.
When PCX2CCS loads a PCX image each of the pixel colors will be translated
into a symbol. Regardless of the maximum number of colors the monitor can
support, PCX2CCS can handle 256 different colors/symbols.
Symbols can be added to or deleted from the grid. The size of the image
can be changed. Rows and/or columns can be added to the edge of the image,
inserted into the the image, or deleted from the image. The image can also
be "clipped", scaled, and printed.
This version has the ability to assign DMC names and numbers to the
different symbols. Since the program reads PCX images, there are over 16
million possible colors that could be used. Rather than select 360 of these
colors, a program is available to registered users that allows the user to
associate palette colors with DMC colors.
Registered users recieve a copy of the program without a reminder to
register, notification of minor upgrade patches which can be downloaded,
major upgrades available via mail (for US$5) and a printed copy of the
manual. In addition, registered users will recieve, with the program, a
library of ABC's and 123's, all 360 DMC colors mapped to RGB values, a
conversion program to convert from BMP, IFF, LBM or TIF to PCX, and a
program to create their own RGB-to-DMC mapping.
PC-Stitch
----------
Platform: PC DOS
Type/Cost: Commercial, US$45
Version:
Where to Find: M & R Enterprises, P.O. Box 9403, Wright Bros. Branch, Dayton
OH 45409. 800-800-8517
CompuServe (demos - XSCGA.EXE, XSEGA.EXE, XSHERC.EXE)
Fibernet (demos - XSDEMO.EXE), STCUG (demos)
Create needlecraft patterns. Graph size up to 200x140. Versions for CGA,
EGA/VGA and Hercules. Colors or symbols. Up to 16 colors (EGA/VGA).
PC-Stitch Graphics File Import
-------------------------------
Platform: PC DOS
Type/Cost: Commercial, cost depends on upgrade path
Version:
Where to Find: M & R Enterprises, P.O. Box 9403, Wright Bros. Branch, Dayton
OH 45409. 800-800-8517
CompuServe (demo - IMPRT.EXE)
Companion program for PC-Stitch. Converts .BMP, .GIF, .PCX, .TIF, .WPG,
WMF, and .TGA files to PC-Stitch pattern files.
Stitch Crafts, Stitch Grapher
------------------------------
Platform: Macintosh (Stitch Crafts), IBM PC, Apple II (Stitch Grapher)
Type/Cost: Commercial, US$150 (Mac), US$90 (PC)
Version:
Where to Find: Compucrafts, PO Box 326, Lincoln Center MA 01773
508-263-8007
Design needlecraft charts. "Change symbols, copy, rotate, choose from 360
color DMC palette, up to 50 symbols (Mac) or 30 symbols (PC)." Create
charts and legends from color pictures.
Stitch-It II
-------------
Platform: PC Windows, Macintosh
Type/Cost: Commercial, cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find: Sheridan Software, address unknown
Fibernet (demos - stitchit.cpt (Mac), stitchit.zip (Windows))
The PC version requires Windows 3.0 or 3.1.
Stitch Painter
---------------
Platform: Macintosh, IBM Windows, Amiga
Type/Cost: Commercial, US$165
Version:
Where to Find: Cochenille Design Studio, P.O. Box 4276, Encinitas CA 92023
CompuServe (demos - SPDEMO.ZIP, STCHPA.SEA, IBMSTI.TXT)
Design cross stitch and knits. Demo disk available.
STITCHERY
----------
Platform: Amiga
Type/Cost: Shareware, cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find: CompuServe (STITCH.LZH), Fibernet (STITCH.LZH)
Converts an IFF file into color coded diagrams. May be used for cross
stitch, needlepoint, knitting...
This program will only work with Amiga operating system version 1.3.
XSGIF
------
Platform: PC DOS
Type/Cost: Shareware, cost unknown
Version:
Where to Find: CompuServe (demo - XGDEMO.EXE), Fibernet (demo - XGZIP.EXE)
Convert GIF files to "XStitch" patterns. Must be a registered user of
"XStitch" to get a working version of this program.
X-Stitch Designer
X-Stitch Designer Professional
X-Stitch Designer Semi-Professional
X-Stitch Designer Gold: Standard
X-Stitch Designer Gold: Intermediate
X-Stitch Designer Gold: Enhanced
X-Stitch Designer Gold: Premium Plus
-------------------------------------
Platform: Macintosh, PC DOS (X-Stitch Designer...)
PC Windows (X-Stitch Designer Gold...)
Type/Cost: Commercial, cost varies with program and platform
Version:
Where to Find: Oxford Crafts, PO Box 208, Bonsall CA 92003
1-800-995-0420
619-723-0141
619-723-6196 (fax)
or
IL-Soft Buttercross House, 16 Langdale Gate, Witney,
Oxfordshire UK
(01993) 779274 voice or (01993) 702048 fax
CompuServe (demo - XSTCH.ZIP)
The capabilities vary with the program and the platform.
==============================================================================
11. Activities and Events
==============================================================================
-----------------------------------
11.1 Competitions and Exhibitions
-----------------------------------
There are juried shows and exhibitions throughout the year. For the most
complete and accurate information, check the cross stitch and embroidery
magazines. Listed below are shows which have been mentioned in the newgroup.
UK
---
For shows in the UK, some shows are listed by promoter since many promoters
stage multiple exhibitions throughout the year.
ICHF
Dominic House
Seaton Road
Highcliffe
Dorset BH23 5HW
Phone: 01425 272711
Organizers of the "Creative Stitches" and "Sewing for Pleasure" shows. A
partial list for 1995:
Feb 3-5 Creative Stitches, Sheffield, Sheffield Arena
Feb 10-12 Creative Stitches, Brighton, Brighton Centre
Mar 2-5 Creative Stitches, Glasgow, Scottish Exhibition Centre
Mar 9-12 Sewing for Pleasure, Birmingham, NEC
Nationwide Exhibitions (UK) Ltd.
PO Box 20
Fishponds
Bristol BS16 5QU
Organizers of various knitting and needlecraft shows. A partial list for
1995:
Jan 19-22 The 10th Knitting, Needlecraft & Design Exhibition
Sandown Park Exhibition Centre
Esher Surrey
Feb 23-26 The 4th Northwest Knitting & Needlecraft Exhibition
G-Mex Centre
Manchester
Mar 17-19 The 11th Southern Knitting & Needlecraft Exhibition
Bristol & Bath Exhibition Centre
Bristol
Spring Needlecraft Fair
Olympia 2
Kensington
London
April 20-23, 1995. At the door, prices are £7.50, senior citizen £5.50,
and chldren (8-14) £3.50. Advance tickets are £6.50.
USA
----
Golden Swan Needlework Exhibition
Show and competition sponsored by the Women's Educational and Industrial
Union in Boston. Catagories include canvas work, cross stitch, multimedia,
surface embroidery, counted thread, juvenile, and garden themes.
For entry forms, contact the Needlework Shop of the Women's Union at
617-536-5651 x133. In 1994, the deadline for entries was Oct. 15, 1994 and
the show was November 12-20, 1994.
National Counted Cross Stitch Show
Show and competition held at Rockome Gardens in Arcola/Arthur, Illinois.
In 1994 the show was held in June.
c/o Jeanne Lambeth
Rockome Gardens
RR 2, Box 600
Arcola IL 61910
Phone: 217-268-4106
---------------------------------------------
11.2 International Cross Stitch Round Robin
---------------------------------------------
Dawn Scotting (<da...@pandoras.nacjack.gen.nz> or <pan...@kcbbs.gen.nz>)
organizes international round robin groups for counted cross stitch samplers.
The following information is from her:
There are three different groups, all counted x-stitch, basically the same
rules apply to each. You can choose from either:
1. A 'Pot Luck' 9 person group, where any sort of fabric for your sampler
may be chosen.
2. A 'Pot Luck' beginner's 4 person group, sampler fabric same as #1.
This group is for xstitch learners only, it does NOT mean if you are new
to round robins.
3. A 'Linen/Evenweave only' 9 person group, where the name says it all,
absolutely NO aida allowed!
Each person chooses their fabric, colour, theme & size for their own
sampler. Monthly, each sampler is sent around the chain for each person in
a group to work a segment in the theme of that sampler. Segments should be
kept to within about a 50-80 stitches (either way) size limit, less than 50
and it's hard to find a pattern, more then 80 could mean you'd be in a
hurry to finish it within a month. However, long & narrow segments i.e.
100x20 are okay. The only extra cost to you is the price of airmail postage
each month, please be prepared to post out of your own country although
this may not be the case.
A leader will be appointed to send a list of themes to everyone in their
group. FULL instructions will be posted to each person when their group
starts.
If you wish to join please email me with:
1. Your snail mail address
2. A RELIABLE email address
3. Your home phone number
4. Which group you wish to join
5. If you are prepared to be the leader of your group
Your name will be added to the next list, this may take a month or more to
fill, so please be patient. Please do not join unless you are prepared to
keep to the monthly deadline/mailing of each sampler.
Every application will be acknowledged.
------------------------------------------
11.3 The Spirit of Cross Stitch Festival
------------------------------------------
This five day show is aimed exclusively at counted thread stitchers. It
travels to four cities in the U.S. in 1994 and five in 1995.
Locations and dates for 1995 are:
Winston-Salem, NC.....March 1-5
Valley Forge, PA......June 21-26
Austin, TX............August 16-20
Des Moines, IA........September 6-10
Sacramento, CA........September 27-October 1
For class registration information, send a stamped (US$.78) self addressed
business size (#10) envelope for each city that interests you. Indicate on
each envelope which city's information you want. The registration packets are
sent out approximately three months before each Festival.
The address is:
Spirit of Cross Stitch Festival
6000 Meadowbrook Mall Court, Suite 3
Clemmons NC 27012
Phone: 910-766-5180
FAX: 910-766-5191
A videotape of the class projects is available from the same address for
US$7.
Classes run on all days. The Merchandise Mall (vendor show) runs for three
days. A one day pass to the Mall cost US$5 in 1994.
A Special Stitcher Pass (US$18 in 1994) gives:
~ Unlimited admission to the Merchandise Mall
~ One hour earlier admission time to the Mall
~ One week earlier mailing of class registration packets
~ A canvas tote bag
----------------------------
11.4 The Creative Festival
----------------------------
Advertised as "America's Largest Sewing-Quilting-Needleart and Craft Supply
Show and Conference", this traveling show was scheduled to be in 30 cities in
1994. It reaches most areas of the U.S., including Hawaii and Alaska.
Produced and Managed by:
Roth Exposition Group
P.O. Box 9
San Mateo CA 94401
Phone: 415-340-9767
FAX: 415-340-0296
The Creative Art Festival is advertised in Just Cross Stitch, as well as many
quilting and sewing magazines.
It is a three day show with classes and a vendor show aimed at stitchers,
quilters and sewers.
Admission was US$6.00 in 1994 with coupons for $1 off available at many
fabric and craft stores
-----------------------------
11.5 I Love Needlework Fair
-----------------------------
This is a four day show, new in 1994. It is aimed at stitchers, quilters,
knitters and toy makers.
The only dates and locations for 1995 known at the time of this posting:
Milwaukee, WI.....April 6-9
Classes run for all four days. The Needlework Lover's Marketplace is open
Friday through Sunday. Admission to the Marketplace is US$5.
The Fair is co-sponsored by Joan Cravens & Friends, including Zweigart
Fabrics, Stoney Creek collection, ASN Publishing, The Embroidery Studio,
Cross Stitch Sampler magazine and Piecework magazine.
For registration information, send a stamped (US$.78) self addressed
envelope to:
I Love Needlework Fair
836 B Southhampton Road, #285
Benicia CA 94510
Phone: 1-800-525-6338
-----------------------------------------------------------
11.6 Creative Sewing & Needlework Festival and Conference
-----------------------------------------------------------
This is a five day show, located in Toronto. In 1995, workshops are available
from April 26 through April 29, and the show is open from April 28 to April 30.
For registration information, contact:
Creative Sewing & Needlework Festival and Conference
2900 John St., Suite 200
Markham, Ontario L3R 5G3
Canada
Phone: 1-800-291-2030
(905) 470-7057
Fax: (905) 470-0547
==============================================================================
12. Organizations
==============================================================================
-------------------------------------------
12.1 EGA - Embroiderer's Guild of America
-------------------------------------------
This non-profit organization has chapters in the United States and Canada. It
is open to all stitchers at all skill levels. They are an excellent source of
information and instruction for all styles of needlework.
The Embroiderer's Guild of America
335 West Broadway, Suite 100
Louisville KY 40202
Phone: 502-589-6956
The EGA statement of purpose, from the EGA bylaws:
The purpose of this organization shall be to foster the highest standards
of excellence in the practice of the art of embroidery through an active
program of education and study and to preserve the heritage of the art of
embroidery.
---------------------------------------------
12.2 Pomegranate Guild of Judaic Needlework
---------------------------------------------
An organization similar to the EGA, with chapters in some synagogues. Good
source of encouragement for people interested in the traditions of Judaic
religious ornamentation. They also do reviews of companies that do Judaic
designs.
Pomegranate Guild of Judaic Needlework
3316 Lawnridge
Sherman Oaks CA 91423
Phone: 818-784-1599
---------------------------------
12.3 American Needlepoint Guild
---------------------------------
An organization for needlepoint enthusiasts, the American Needlepoint Guild
has a yearly membership fee of US$23. Members receive six issues of the
Guild's magazine Needle Pointers. The ANG also arranges correspondence
courses, seminars, and certification for teaching and judging.
I have two addresses for this organization. First:
ANG, Inc.
PO Box 241208
Memphis, TN 38124-1208
Phone: 901-767-8414
and second:
ANG Membership
c/o Cathy Felten
Valley Creek Circle Dept AC
Middleton WI, 53562-1990
--------------------------
12.4 Embroiderers' Guild
--------------------------
This British organization was founded in the early 1900's as The Society of
Certificated Embroiderers'. Today, the Guild has over 11,000 members
throughout Great Britain. It promotes embroidery through classes,
exhibitions, and many other events
For more information, contact:
Embroiderers' Guild
Apartment 41
Hampton Court Palace
East Molesey
Surrey KT8 9AU
U.K.
Phone: 0181 943 1432
------------------------------------------
12.5 Embroiderers' Association of Canada
------------------------------------------
This organization has chapters in all provinces. As of February, 1995, the
president of the association is:
Barbara Gilbert
President, Embroiderers' Association of Canada
4424 Rangemont Pl.
Victoria, B.C.
V8N 5L6
Kathleen M. Dyer
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Part 4 of 4 - Counted Cross Stitch Frequently Asked Questions version 1.11
Copyright (c) 1994, 1995 Kathleen M. Dyer.
Permission is granted to redistribute this article in its entirety for
noncommercial use provided that this copyright notice is not removed or
altered. No portion of this work may be sold, either by itself or as part of
a larger work, without the express written permission of the author.
==============================================================================
Appendix A. Fabrics
==============================================================================
---------------------------
A.1 Types of Evenweaves
---------------------------
The following lists of fabrics were originally posted by Dawn Scotting, and
updated by Jill Scott-Piner and Dawn Scotting. The count is number of threads
per inch.
100% Cottons
-------------
COUNT FABRIC NAME COUNT FABRIC NAME
----- ----------- ----- -----------
6 Aida (also 8, 11, 14, 16, 18 ct)
Cottage Huck Towelling 16 Congress Cloth
Herta 18 Davos
7 Kali (also 14, 20 count) 20 Northland
10 Copenhagen Tivoli 22 Hardanger
11 Aida Pearl Kitchen
Aida Baby Saar - patterned Oslo Hardanger - mercerized
Easycount Aida 24 Congress Cloth
(" also 14, 18 count) 27 Alice - patterned
Hardida (also 22 count) Gerda
12 Arno - patterned Linda
Saar 28 Annabelle
14 Carola Jubilee
Malmoe (also 28 count) 30 Toledo - mercerized
Pilgrim Cloth
Rustico Aida (also 18 ct)
Sturbridge
Sundal - mercerized
Cotton Blends
--------------
COUNT FABRIC NAME FIBRE CONTENT
----- ----------- -------------
6 North Glen 90% cotton, 10% viscose
7 Goldau 40% cotton, 55% rayon, 5% metallic - patterned
Klostern 40% cotton, 60% rayon
10 Damask 55% cotton 45% viscose - patterned
Nordic Spring 85% cotton, 15% poly
Tilla 40% cotton, 55% rayon, 5% metallic - patterned
Tula 40% cotton 60% rayon
11 Bundle of Bows 55% cotton 45% rayon
Damask Aida 52% cotton 48% rayon
Damask All 55% cotton, 45% rayon
- Constance, Obensburg, Rosemary
- Rosemont, Schonfels, Stratford
E-Z count Aida 98% cotton 2% polyacrylic (also 14 & 18ct)
14 Ariosa 40% cotton, 60% rayon (also 20ct)
Banjo cloth cotton/polyester/linen blend
Damask Aida 55% rayon, 45% cotton
Damask Quick Quilt - 48% cotton, 52% rayon
Shona - 55% cotton, 45% rayon
Fiddler's Cloth 50% cotton 42% polyester 8% linen (also 18ct)
Wild West 55% cotton, 45% acrylic
Yorkshire Aida 96% cotton, 4% poly
16 Jobelan 51% cotton 49% polyester (also 20, 28, 32ct)
18 Damask Aida 45% cotton, 55% rayon
North Glen 90% cotton, 10% viscose
20 Bellana 52% cotton, 48% viscose
Valerie 52% cotton, 48% rayon
22 Almeria 50% cotton, 35% polyester, 15% linen
Damask Hardanger 48% cotton, 52% rayon
25 Andria 52% cotton, 48% rayon - patterned
Lugana 52% cotton, 48% rayon
Modena 52% cotton, 48% rayon
Rimini 52% cotton, 48% rayon
Sondrio 52% cotton, 48% rayon
Teramo 52% cotton, 48% rayon
26 Flowerfield 40% cotton, 60% viscose (also called Meran)
28 Alma Cloth 51% cotton, 49% viscose
Brittney 52% cotton, 48% rayon
Chalet 40% cotton, 60% viscose - patterned
Pastel Linen 52% cotton 48% linen
30 Murano 52% cotton, 48% rayon
Shannon 51% cotton, 49% linen
100% Linens
------------
COUNT FABRIC NAME COUNT FABRIC NAME
----- ----------- ----- -----------
17 Danish linen 26 Brussels (also 30, 35 ct)
18 Linen (also 22, 26, 30, 35 ct) Morning Star - patterned
Unbleached 28 Glasgow
(" also 26, 28, 30, 32, 35, 40 ct) Montrose
19 Cork linen 29 Glenshee
20 Irish linen (also 28, 32, 36 ct) 32 Belfast
Northern Cross 36 Edinburgh
(" also 27, 30, 35 ct) 50 Kingston
22 Linen Hardanger 55 Kingston
24 Lorna linen
25 Dublin linen
Easycount Linen
Linen Blends
-------------
COUNT FABRIC NAME FIBRE CONTENT
----- ----------- -------------
9 Linen Aida cotton, linen
12 Country Canvas 70% polyester, 30% linen
14 Country Cloth 70% poly, 30% linen
Floba 30% linen, 70% rayon (also 18, 25 ct)
Loomspun 30% linen, 70% polyacrylic
Northwoods 80% acrylic, 20% linen
18 Home Sweet Home 10% linen, 90% polyacrylic - patterned
Norlin 60% linen, 30% cotton, 10% viscose
Shaker 55% linen, 25% cotton, 20% polyester
28 Pastel Linen 48% linen, 52% cotton (weft is white, the
warp is a shade)
Quaker Cloth 55% linen, 45% cotton
Shenandoah 55% linen, 45% cotton - patterned
Whittenburg 71% linen, 29% flax/cotton
30 Melinda Cloth 60% linen, 40% cotton
45 Carrick 55% linen, 45% cotton
Fine Linen 55% linen, 45% cotton
Zweigart Fine 55% linen, 45% cotton
? Glenora 70% rayon, 30% linen (afghan)
Miscellaneous Blends
---------------------
COUNT FABRIC NAME FIBRE CONTENT
----- ----------- -------------
6 Bondeno 100% polyacrylic - patterned
7 Country Aida 100% polyacrylic
Monk's Cloth unknown (by Charles Craft)
8 Savannah 100% polyacrylic
10 Jute 100% jute (also 12 count)
14 Alba 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Astoria Cloth 50% poly, 50% viscose (easy care)
Christmas Plaid 100% trevira/viscose - patterned
Country Aida 100% polyacrylic
Florina 100% rayon
Gardasee 100 polyacrylic
Heatherfield 100% polyacrylic (linen tweed)
Homespun Cloth 100% viscose
New Gardasee 100% polyacrylic
Proud Pine 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Ragusa 100% polyacrylic
Royal Classic 50% polyester, 50% rayon
Sal--Em 50% poly, 50% rayon
Soft Touch 100% dacron w/ stain resistant VISA finish
Venezia 100% polyacrylic
16 Wool 100% new wool
18 Arabella 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Astoria Cloth 50% poly, 50% viscose (easy care)
Baby Snuggel 100% polyacrylic
Basic Cloth 100% polyester
Bostonian 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Cottage Lace Curtain 100% polyacrylic - patterned
" Classic " " non-patterned
Florina 100% rayon
Gretchen patterned
Heartsong 100% polyacrylic
Polly 100% polyacrylic (imitation wool)
Richmond 100% polyacrylic
Sal--Em 50% poly, 50% rayon
Tabby 100% polyacrylic
Wool 100% new wool - fine weave
20 Bergen 100% polyacrylic
24 Heartland 100% modal
26 Heatherfield 100% polyacrylic
Sal--Em 50% poly, 50% rayon
(multi count) Rhonda 'Bellpull' 100% polyacrylic
Afghan Fabrics
---------------
COUNT FABRIC NAME FIBRE CONTENT
----- ----------- -------------
Angelica 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Dutch Garden 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Gloria Cloth 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Hearthside 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Honeybee Afghan 100% polyacrylic
Hunt Club Afghan polyester/rayon blend - patterned
Lady Elizabeth 100% trevira/viscose - patterned
Liberty Square 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Louisiana 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Lucky Duck 100% polyacrylic
Monza 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Novara 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Nursery Time patterned
Udine 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Valentina 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Victorian Afghan
18 Abby Cloth 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Anne Cloth 100% polyacrylic
Chapelle Afghan 100% polyacrylic
Diamond Afghan 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Friendship Circle 100% polyacrylic - patterned
Honeycomb 100% polyacrylic - patterned
28 Chalet Afghan
Heart Afghan 100% polyacrylic
Ribbon Afghan 100% polyacrylic
-------------------------------------
A.2 Fabric Colors Compared to DMC
-------------------------------------
This table of fabrics with equivalent DMC colors was collected by Lillian
Banchik <LHBa...@aol.com>. The following comments are hers:
The following is a table of some of the various fabrics available from
Charles Craft, Permin and Zweigart along with the equivalent DMC color. The
names used are the ones given to the fabric by the company. If the fabric
is not listed it is because there is no equivalent DMC color available.
Please note that these may not always be an exact match (due to dye lot
variations) but at least they will give you an idea of what the color looks
like. Also note that there is no consistancy in color names between
manufacturers or even between different types of fabrics made by the same
manufacturer. For example, Ice Blue Damask Aida is not the same color as
Ice Blue Jubilee even though they are both made by Zweigart and what Permin
called Slate in Aida they call Twilight Blue in Linen.
Aida - Charles Craft
Antique Blue 931
Blush 948
Cameo Rose 223
Delft Blue 322
Emerald Green 699
Light Blue 775
Lilac 3042
Pine Mist 926
Pink 818
Platinum 453
Red 498
Smoke 642
Steel Gray 414
Wheatstraw 738
Willow Green 503
Wisteria 3041
Yellow 3078
Aida - Permin
Antique White 739
Bamboo 3023
Blueberry 931
Bone 842
Cameo Peach 3022
Denim Blue 793
Elderberry 3041
Jonquil Yellow 746
Moss 524
Parchment 842
Raspberry 316
Slate 927
Wheat 3046
Aida - Zweigart
Dirty Aida 3782
Gray 415
Parchment 3033
Royal Blue 796
Damask Aida - Zweigart
Carnation Pink 819
Daffodil 746
Dawn Grey 3072
Ebony 310
Ice Blue 775
Mint Green 504
Jubilee - Zweigart
Ice Blue 3753
Lavendar 3042
Linen - Permin
Champagne 644
Twilight Blue 927
Lugana - Zweigart
Bone 543
Moss 524
Victorian Red 815
Murano - Zweigart
Moss green 524
Pastel Linen - Zweigart
Periwinkle 3753
Royal Classic - Charles Craft
Deep Teal 924
Rich Cranberry 816
Soft Touch - Charles Craft
Ash Rose 224
Banana Ice 745
Mocha Cream 842
Pink Souffle 818
==============================================================================
Appendix B. Floss and Fibers
==============================================================================
--------------------------------------
B.1 Fibers to Use Other Than Floss
--------------------------------------
There are many types of fibers available today for counted thread work, with
new specialty types appearing on a regular basis from companies such as
Kreinik and the Caron Collection. Here is a partial list of what you may
find, and what they may be used for.
Flower Thread
--------------
A matte-finish, 100% cotton thread available in skeins. Available from
several fiber manufacturers. The original is Danish Flower Thread. DMC
has 108 flower thread colors, most of which match their floss numbers.
Used for traditional Danish embroidery. Also recommended for
linen/evenweaves and for afghans. Equal to about two or three strands of
embroidery floss.
Medici Wool
------------
A DMC product with a homespun look. Looks especially nice with natural
linen.
Metallic Blending Filament
---------------------------
One ply thin metallic thread, available on spools. Frequently combined
with regular floss to provide extra sparkle.
Tips:
Use short strands.
Metallic Braids and Ribbons
----------------------------
Metallic threads, available on spools. Used alone to provide definition,
sparkle and texture. The braids are rounded, and the ribbons are flat.
Tips:
Slipknot the thread onto the needle.
Run the threads over a fabric softener sheet.
Use short strands.
Perle Cotton
-------------
A "mercerized, twisted, non-divisible lustrous cotton thread" available in
skeins and balls. Used with many counted thread techniques, such as pulled
thread and Hardanger. Available in different weights--#5 equal to about
four strands of embroidery floss, and #3 equal to about six strands.
Ribbon Floss
-------------
A shiny, flat fiber. Can be used with Metallic Ribbon to provide some
real sparkle.
Silk Thread
------------
Available as solid or hand painted variegated skeins. Beautifully smooth.
CAUTION--some silk thread is not colorfast.
---------------------------------------
B.2 Calculating the Amount of Floss
---------------------------------------
The amount of floss needed for any project can vary among stitchers. The
chart below should be used as a _general_ guide only. You may get fewer
stitches per skein if you are doing a very complex project or if you have
loose stitches.
The equation used to derive this chart is described at the end.
Find the count (number of stitches per inch) in the left-hand column and go
across. Find the number of strands of floss used at the top of the chart and
go down. The number of stitches per skein of floss is where these two
intersect.
Strands of floss
1 2 3 4 5 6
------------------------------------------------
C 6 | 1530 765 510 382 306 255
o 7 | 1785 892 595 446 357 297
u 8 | 2040 1020 680 510 408 340
n 9 | 2295 1147 765 573 459 382
t 10 | 2550 1275 850 637 510 425
11 | 2805 1402 935 701 561 467
12 | 3060 1530 1020 765 612 510
13 | 3315 1657 1105 828 663 552
14 | 3570 1785 1190 892 714 595
15 | 3825 1912 1275 956 765 637
16 | 4080 2040 1360 1020 816 680
17 | 4335 2167 1445 1083 867 722
18 | 4590 2295 1530 1147 918 765
19 | 4845 2422 1615 1211 969 807
20 | 5100 2550 1700 1275 1020 850
21 | 5355 2677 1785 1338 1071 892
22 | 5610 2805 1870 1402 1122 935
23 | 5865 2932 1955 1466 1173 977
24 | 6120 3060 2040 1530 1224 1020
25 | 6375 3187 2125 1593 1275 1062
26 | 6630 3315 2210 1657 1326 1105
27 | 6885 3442 2295 1721 1377 1147
28 | 7140 3570 2380 1785 1428 1190
29 | 7395 3697 2465 1848 1479 1232
30 | 7650 3825 2550 1912 1530 1275
31 | 7905 3952 2635 1976 1581 1317
32 | 8160 4080 2720 2040 1632 1360
33 | 8415 4207 2805 2103 1683 1402
34 | 8670 4335 2890 2167 1734 1445
35 | 8925 4462 2975 2231 1785 1487
36 | 9180 4590 3060 2295 1836 1530
37 | 9435 4717 3145 2358 1887 1572
38 | 9690 4845 3230 2422 1938 1615
39 | 9945 4972 3315 2486 1989 1657
40 | 10200 5100 3400 2550 2040 1700
41 | 10455 5227 3485 2613 2091 1742
42 | 10710 5355 3570 2677 2142 1785
43 | 10965 5482 3655 2741 2193 1827
44 | 11220 5610 3740 2805 2244 1870
45 | 11475 5737 3825 2868 2295 1912
46 | 11730 5865 3910 2932 2346 1955
47 | 11985 5992 3995 2996 2397 1997
48 | 12240 6120 4080 3060 2448 2040
49 | 12495 6247 4165 3123 2499 2082
50 | 12750 6375 4250 3187 2550 2125
51 | 13005 6502 4335 3251 2601 2167
52 | 13260 6630 4420 3315 2652 2210
53 | 13515 6757 4505 3378 2703 2252
54 | 13770 6885 4590 3442 2754 2295
55 | 14025 7012 4675 3506 2805 2337
For you folks who like to know the details, here is how the chart was
derived. As you will see, there was a fair amount of approximation going on.
A skein of floss is approximately 8-1/2 yards long. Assume most people stitch
with an 18" length of floss. This gives 17 segments of 18" each per skein.
Most of the time, people stitch with more than one strand. There are 6
strands of floss per skein. So 6/strands_used is the number of pieces per
segment.
Allow 3" per 18" length for securing the beginning and ending, and for general
waste. This gives 15" of usable thread per 18" piece.
Now, how many inches of floss does each X take? Using the Pythagorean Theorem
to calculate the length of each half stitch on 14 count fabric, and allowing
for the vertical lengths on the back, and allowing a little for slop, we
get 6/count (where count is the number of stitches per inch). Remember, I
_said_ there was a fair amount of approximation going on.
So the final equation is:
stitches_per_skein = 17 * (15 / (6/count)) * (6/strands_used)
I used this equation in a perl script to produce the chart above.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
B.3 Color Names/Conversion - DMC/Coats/Anchor/Marlette/Medicis/Au Ver A Soie
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks to Dawn Scotting for originally posting the DMC-Coats-Anchor floss
color conversion chart; to Chris O'Donnell for posting the color name chart;
to Wanda Wolfe for thinking to combine the two; to Barbara Joyce for adding
the new DMC colors; and to Lillian Banchik for adding the Marlette, Medicis,
and Au Ver A Soie colors.
Use the floss conversion chart as a guide only. It is difficult to give exact
alternatives between different brands of embroidery floss. Where two or more
numbers divided by slashes are listed in one column, use a combination of
these colors.
Similarly, use the color name chart as a guide only. DMC does _not_ name its
colors, and designers are free to use whatever names they choose.
Some headings have been abbreviated:
J&P - J&P Coates
Anch - Anchor
Marl - Marlette
Medic - Medicis
DMC Color Shade J&P Anch Marl Medic Au Ver A Soie
----- --------------- ----------- ---- ---- ---- ----- -------------
white white 1001 2 800 white Blanc
ecru ecru/off-white 1002 387 1212 ecru Creme/F2/F13
48 shaded roses 201 1201 --- --- ---
52 shaded purples 212 1208 --- --- ---
61 shaded browns 209 --- --- --- ---
62 shaded roses 201 1200 --- --- ---
90 shaded yellows 219 --- --- --- ---
92 shaded greens 214 1216 --- --- ---
93 shaded blues 210 --- --- --- ---
95 shaded purples 212 --- --- --- ---
101 shaded greens bright 221 1214 --- --- ---
105 shaded browns 209 1204 --- --- ---
107 shaded reds bright 204 1204 --- --- ---
108 shaded yellows 219 1219 --- --- ---
113 shaded blues 210 --- --- --- ---
114 shaded greens bright 221 1215 --- --- ---
121 shaded blues 210 1210 --- --- ---
126 shaded purples 212 1209 --- --- ---
208 lavender med 4301 110 --- 7794 1334/3335
209 lavender dk 4302 109 --- 7895 1342/3334
210 lavender med 4303 108 --- 7896 3334
211 lavender lt 4303 342 --- 7397 3333
221 shell pink vy dk 3242 897 --- 8106 4623/4624
223 shell pink lt 3241 895 --- 8107 4622
224 shell pink vy lt 3240 893 --- 8103A 4621
225 shell pink ultra vy lt 3239 892 --- 8101A 1011
300 mahogany vy dk --- 352 --- 8300 4142
301 mahogany med --- 884 --- 8301 2625
304 christmas red med 3401 19 --- --- 943/1026
307 lemon 2290 289 --- --- 534/543
309 rose deep 3284 42 88 --- 2934/2945
310 black 8403 403 801 Noir Noir
311 navy blue med 7980 148 --- 8206 1716
312 navy blue lt 7979 979 --- 8207 1715
315 antique mauve vy dk 3082 972 --- 8122 4646
316 antique mauve med 3081 --- --- 8120A 4634
317 pewter grey 8512 400 846 --- 3445
318 steel grey lt 8511 399 --- 7618 3442
319 pistachio green vy dk 6246 218 --- 8414 3445
320 pistachio green med 6017 215 --- --- 1834
321 christmas red 3500 47 893 8103 941/943
322 navy blue vy lt 7978 978 --- 8208 4922
326 rose vy deep 3401 --- --- --- 1026
327 violet dk 4101 100 --- --- 3315
333 blue violet vy dk --- 119 --- --- 1344
334 baby blue med 7977 977 --- 8209 1434
335 rose 3283 38 --- --- 3014
336 navy blue 7981 150 --- 8205 1423
340 blue violet med 7110 118 --- --- 1343
341 blue violet lt 7005 117 --- --- 1433
347 salmon vy dk 3013 --- --- --- 2924
349 coral dk 2335 13 --- 8127 915/935/936
350 coral med 3111 11 --- --- 914/934
351 coral 3011 10 --- 8128 924
352 coral lt 3008 9 --- 8129 932/933
353 peach flesh 3006 8 --- --- 921/2913
355 terra cotta dk 2339 --- --- 7168 2636
356 terra cotta med 2338 5975 --- 7166 4612
367 pistachio green dk 6018 217 --- 8406 1835/3425
368 pistachio green lt 6016 214 --- 7369 1832/1842
369 pistachio green vy lt 6015 259 1058 7871 1841
370 mustard med --- 856 --- --- 2214
371 mustard --- 855 --- --- ---
372 mustard lt --- 854 --- --- 3833
400 mahogany dk --- 351 --- --- 4141/4215
402 mahogany vy lt --- 347 807 --- 632/2622
407 sportsman flesh dk --- 914 --- 8108 4611
413 pewter grey dk 8514 401 --- 7712 3445
414 steel grey dk 8513 235 --- 7877 3442
415 pearl grey 8398 398 --- 7380 3441
420 hazelnut brown dk 5374 374 --- 8321 2236/2246
422 hazelnut brown lt 5372 943 --- 8322 3812
433 brown med 5471 310 --- 8320 4116
434 brown lt 5000 370 --- --- 4516
435 brown vy lt 5371 901 --- --- 4236
436 tan 5943 890 --- --- 4235
437 tan lt 5942 362 --- --- 4234
444 lemon dk 2298 290 821 --- 536
445 lemon lt 2288 288 --- --- 2523
451 shell grey dk 8233 233 --- --- 3414
452 shell grey med 8232 232 --- --- 3413/3414
453 shell grey lt 8231 231 --- --- 3412/3413
469 avocado green 6261 267 --- 8402 2125
470 avocado green lt 6010 267 --- --- 245/2125
471 avocado green vy lt 6010 267 --- --- 2144
472 avocado green ultra lt 6253 264 --- --- 2122/2123
498 christmas red dk 3410 43 --- 8102 945/1026
500 blue green vy dk 6880 879 --- 8409 1846
501 blue green dk 6878 878 --- 8408 1844/3426
502 blue green 6876 877 --- 8407 ---
503 blue green med 6879 875 --- --- 1843
504 blue green lt 6875 213 --- --- 1822/3426
517 wedgewood med 7162 --- 457 7993 1446/1725
518 wedgewood lt --- --- --- 7996 1444
519 sky blue --- --- --- 7997 1442
520 fern green dk 6318 862 --- --- 3726
522 fern green 6316 860 --- --- 3144
523 fern green lt 6316 859 --- --- 1841
524 fern green vy lt 6315 858 466 --- 3423
535 ash grey vy lt 8400 --- --- --- 3844
543 beige brown ultra vy lt 5533 933 --- --- 3431
550 violet vy dk 4107 101 --- --- 3336/3315
552 violet med 4092 112 --- --- 3314
553 violet 4097 98 858 --- 3313
554 violet lt 4104 96 --- --- 3312
561 jade vy dk 6211 212 --- --- 146
562 jade med 6213 210 --- --- 144
563 jade lt 6210 208 --- --- 143/221
564 jade vy lt 6209 206 --- --- 141
580 moss green dk 6267 --- --- --- 516
581 moss green 6256 --- --- --- 2124/2145
597 turquoise 7168 --- --- --- 132
598 turquoise lt 7167 167 --- --- 1721/1723
600 cranberry vy dk 3056 --- 815 --- 2946
601 cranberry dk 3128 57 --- 7151 2945
602 cranberry med 3063 63 814 7153 3014
603 cranberry 3001 62 --- 7155 3013
604 cranberry lt 3001 66 1069 --- 3012
605 cranberry vy lt --- 50 813 7685 3021
606 orange-red bright 2334 335 --- --- 915/935
608 orange bright 2332 --- --- --- 635
610 drab brown vy dk 5889 889 --- --- 3835
611 drab brown dk 5898 898 --- --- 4534
612 drab brown med --- 853 --- --- 3833
613 drab brown lt --- 956 --- --- 3832
632 flesh vy dk 5936 936 --- --- 4143
640 beige grey vy dk 5393 --- --- --- 3834
642 beige grey dk 5832 832 --- --- 3713
644 beige grey med 5831 899 --- --- 3422
645 beaver grey vy dk 8500 273 --- --- 3844
646 beaver grey dk 8500 --- --- --- 3843
647 beaver grey med 8900 8581 --- --- 1734
648 beaver grey lt 8390 900
666 christmas red bright 3046 46 --- 7666 3841
676 old gold lt 2874 891 1077 8304A 915/936
677 old gold vy lt --- 886 --- --- 2141
680 old gold dk 2876 907 --- 8303 524
699 christmas green 6228 923 --- --- 225
700 christmas green bright 6227 228 811 8797 226
701 christmas green lt 6226 227 --- --- 235
702 kelly green 6239 239 --- --- 224/236
703 chartreuse 6238 --- --- 7955 223
704 chartreuse bright 6238 --- 810 --- 221
712 cream 5387 926 --- --- Brut/F20
718 plum --- 88 --- --- 1043
720 orange spice dk 2322 326 --- --- 634
721 orange spice med 2324 324 --- --- 645
722 orange spice lt 2323 323 --- --- 633
725 topaz 2298 305 --- 7725 2514
726 topaz lt 2295 295 --- 7026 522
727 topaz vy lt 2289 293 --- 7027 2521
729 old gold med 2875 874 1078 8303A 2234/2243/2533
730 olive green vy dk --- 924 827 --- 3724
731 olive green dk 6844 844 827 --- 516/2214
732 olive green --- 281 --- --- 2124
733 olive green med --- 280 --- --- 2145
734 olive green lt --- 279 --- --- 2212
738 tan vy lt 5375 372 --- --- 3821/4112
739 tan ultra vy lt 5369 885 --- 8504 4241
740 tangerine 2099 316 850 7940 625
741 tangerine med 2314 314 849 7941 611/623
742 tangerine lt 2303 303 --- 7942 545
743 yellow med 2302 302 848 --- 536
744 yellow pale 2293 301 --- --- 2532
745 yellow lt pale 2296 300 --- --- 2542
746 off white 2275 275 --- 8328 2541
747 sky blue vy lt 7053 928 1052 --- 1723
754 peach flesh lt 2331 6 1042 8139 1012
758 terra cotta vy lt 3868 868 --- 7164 2912
760 salmon 3069 --- 830 --- 2932/2943
761 salmon lt 3068 --- --- --- 1013/2931
762 pearl grey vy lt 8510 397 845 7381 3441
772 yellow green vy lt 6250 260 --- 8421 2112/2113
775 baby blue vy lt 7031 975 --- 8211 1441
776 pink med 3281 24 --- --- 2941
778 antique mauve vy lt 3060 --- --- 7120 4631/4632
780 topaz ultra vy dk --- 365 839 --- 3816/3826
781 topaz vy dk 5309 --- --- --- 2516/3825
782 topaz dk 5308 308 867 --- 2244/2245
783 topaz med 5307 307 868 7484 2534
791 cornflower blue vy dk 7024 178 --- --- 1345
792 cornflower blue dk 7150 177 --- --- ---
793 cornflower blue med --- 176 --- --- 4913
794 cornflower blue lt --- 175 --- --- 1434
796 royal blue dk --- 133 --- 7720 116
797 royal blue --- 132 836 --- 4924
798 delft dk --- 131 --- 7899 4923
799 delft med --- 130 --- --- 4922
800 delft pale 7021 129 1059 7800 4921
801 coffee brown dk 5475 359 840 8306 4115/4122
806 peacock blue dk 7169 169 1056 --- 126
807 peacock blue 7168 168 1053 --- 125
809 delft 7021 130 --- 7799 1434
813 blue lt 7161 160 1009 --- 1443
814 garnet dk 3044 45 844 8100 2926/4625
815 garnet med 3000 44 894 --- 2925
816 garnet 3410 20 --- --- 946
817 coral red vy dk 2335 --- --- 8126 916
818 baby pink 3281 23 --- --- 2942
819 baby pink lt 3280 271 1213 --- 1011
820 royal blue vy dk 7024 134 838 --- 116
822 beige grey lt 5830 830 1032 --- 3711/3811
823 navy blue dk 7982 164 --- 8200 163/1425
824 blue vy dk --- 164 --- --- 115
825 blue dk 7181 162 --- --- 1446
826 blue med 7180 161 --- --- 113
827 blue vy lt 7159 159 --- --- 1442
828 blue ultra vy lt 7053 158 --- --- 1721
829 golden olive vy dk --- 906 --- --- 526
830 golden olive dk --- 277 --- --- 2226
831 golden olive med --- --- --- 8400 2225
832 golden olive --- --- --- --- 2235
833 golden olive lt --- --- --- 8305 2233
834 golden olive vy lt --- 945 --- --- 2242
838 beige brown vy dk 5381 380 --- --- 4124
839 beige brown dk 5360 --- --- --- 3433
840 beige brown med 5379 --- --- --- 3345/3434
841 beige brown lt 5376 378 --- --- 3341
842 beige brown vy lt 5933 388 --- 8502 3431/4531
844 beaver grey ultra dk 8501 --- --- --- 3844/3846
869 hazelnut brown vy dk --- 944 --- --- 526
890 pistachio green ultra dk 6021 --- 853 --- 1836/1845
891 carnation dk --- 29 --- --- 914
892 carnation med 3152 28 --- --- ---
893 carnation lt 3152 27 --- --- 1014
894 carnation vy lt 3127 26 --- --- 1022
895 hunter green vy dk 6021 --- --- --- 1845
898 coffee brown vy dk 5476 360 --- --- 4131/4124
899 rose med 3282 55 --- --- 2933
900 burnt orange dk 2329 --- --- --- 635/636
902 garnet vy dk 3083 72 --- 8110 2926/4626
904 parrot green vy dk 6258 --- 1033 --- 2116
905 parrot green dk 6267 258 1032 --- 224
906 parrot green med 6256 256 1031 --- 223
907 parrot green lt 6001 255 --- --- 244
909 emerald green vy dk 6228 230 834 --- 225
910 emerald green dk 6031 229 1067 --- 226
911 emerald green med 6205 --- --- --- 214
912 emerald green lt 6205 205 --- --- ---
913 nile green med 6225 204 --- --- 213
915 plum dk --- 65 --- --- ---
917 plum med 4089 89 --- --- 1043
918 red copper dk 3340 341 --- 8104A 2142
919 red copper 2326 340 --- 8104 2636
920 copper med 3337 339 1003 7176 2625
921 copper --- 338 --- --- 2615
922 copper lt 3336 337 --- 7175 644
924 grey green vy dk 6008 851 --- --- 205
926 grey green med 6007 850 --- 8203 1745
927 grey green lt 6006 849 --- --- 1744
928 grey green vy lt 7225 848 --- 8204A 1742
930 antique blue dk 7052 922 --- 8201 1715
931 antique blue med 7051 921 --- 8202 1714
932 antique blue lt 6270 861 --- --- 1712
934 avocado green ultra dk --- --- --- 8040 3726
935 avocado green dk --- --- --- --- 2126
936 avocado green vy dk --- --- --- --- 2136
937 avocado green med 6268 268 --- --- 516 (?)
938 coffee brown ultra dk 5477 381 1072 --- 4124 (?)
939 navy blue vy dk 7160 152 --- 8175 165
943 aquamarine med 6187 188 --- --- ---
945 flesh med 3335 881 1001 8504A 2632
946 burnt orange med 2330 332 1057 7908 634
947 burnt orange 2327 330 --- --- ---
948 peach flesh vy lt 2331 --- --- --- 2911
950 sportsman flesh 2336 --- --- 8109 2912
951 flesh 3335 880 --- 8505A 4241
954 nile green 6020 203 --- --- 143/211
955 nile green lt 6030 --- --- 7567 141
956 geranium 3127 54 --- --- 1024
957 geranium pale 3125 52 --- --- 1022
958 seagreen dk 6186 186 --- --- 5013
959 seagreen med --- --- --- --- 5012
961 dusty rose dk 3176 76 --- --- 3013
962 dusty rose med 3151 40 --- --- 3022
963 dusty rose ultra vy lt 3280 73 1019 7102 2942
964 seagreen lt 6185 185 --- --- 5011
966 baby green med 6030 240 --- --- 142
970 pumpkin bright 2327 --- 1028 --- 634
971 pumpkin 2099 --- --- --- 633
972 canary deep 2307 355 822 --- 544/545
973 canary bright 2290 297 899 --- 536
975 golden brown dk 5349 355 --- --- 4215
976 golden brown med 2308 309 --- --- 4212
977 golden brown lt 2306 313 --- --- 611/2546
986 forest green vy dk 6021 246 852 --- 1845
987 forest green dk 6258 244 --- --- 2116
988 forest green med 6258 243 --- 8413 2115
989 forest green 6266 242 897 --- 234
991 aquamarine dk 6212 189 --- --- 1826
992 aquamarine 6186 --- --- --- 5013
993 aquamarine lt 6185 --- --- --- 1823
995 electric blue dk 7010 410 --- --- 114
996 electric blue med 7001 433 --- --- 113
3011 khaki green dk 6845 845 --- 8412A 516
3012 khaki green med 6843 843 1011 8411 2124
3013 khaki green lt 6842 842 --- --- 3722
3021 brown grey vy dk 5395 905 --- --- 3846
3022 brown grey med --- --- --- 8204 3715
3023 brown grey lt --- --- --- --- 3422
3024 brown grey vy lt 8390 --- --- --- 3421/3841
3031 mocha brown vy dk 5472 --- --- --- 4115
3032 mocha brown med 5393 903 1140 --- 4534
3033 mocha brown vy lt 5388 391 1036 --- 3711
3041 antique violet med 4222 871 --- --- 4635
3042 antique violet lt 4221 870 --- --- 4633
3045 yellow beige dk 2412 888 --- --- 3742
3046 yellow beige med 2410 887 --- --- 2231
3047 yellow beige lt 2300 --- --- --- 2541/2542
3051 green grey dk 6317 846 --- --- 2126
3052 green grey med 6316 --- --- 8405 3723
3053 green grey 6315 --- --- 8105 3722
3064 sportsman flesh vy dk 3883 883 --- --- 4611
3072 beaver grey vy lt 6005 234 --- --- 111/1813
3078 golden yellow vy lt 2292 292 --- 7748 532/2521
3325 baby blue lt 7976 144 --- 8210 4921
3326 rose lt 3126 36 879 --- 3021
3328 salmon dk 3071 --- 881 --- 2915
3340 apricot med --- 329 --- --- 912
3341 apricot --- 328 --- --- 911
3345 hunter green dk 6258 --- --- --- 2116
3346 hunter green 6258 --- --- 8418 2115
3347 yellow green med 6266 266 --- 8419 2114
3348 yellow green lt 6266 254 --- 8420 2113
3350 dusty rose ultra dk 3004 59 --- --- 3025
3354 dusty rose lt 3003 74 --- --- 3021/3011
3362 pine green dk 6318 263 --- --- 3726
3363 pine green med 6317 --- --- --- 1832/1833
3364 pine green 6010 --- --- --- 1831/3723
3371 black brown 5478 382 --- 8500 4136
3607 plum lt 4087 87 --- --- ---
3608 plum vy lt 4086 86 --- --- ---
3609 plum ultra lt 4085 85 --- --- 1312
3685 mauve dk 3089 70 --- 7212 3026
3687 mauve 3088 68 --- --- 3023/3024
3688 mauve med 3087 60 --- --- 1042
3689 mauve lt 3086 49 --- --- 3031
3705 melon dk 3012 35 831 7106 914/934
3706 melon med 3127 33 --- 7104 932
3708 melon lt 3127 31 --- 7103 1021/1022
3712 salmon med --- --- --- --- ---
3713 salmon vy lt --- 968 --- --- ---
3716 dusty rose vy lt --- 25 --- --- ---
3721 shell pink dk --- --- --- --- ---
3722 shell pink med --- 896 --- --- ---
3726 antique mauve dk 3084 970 --- --- ---
3727 antique mauve lt --- 969 --- --- ---
3731 dusty rose vy dk --- 77 --- --- ---
3733 dusty rose --- 75 --- --- ---
3740 antique violet dk --- 872 --- --- ---
3743 antique violet vy lt --- --- --- --- ---
3746 blue violet dk --- --- --- --- ---
3747 blue violet vy lt 7004 120 --- --- ---
3750 antique blue vy dk --- --- --- --- ---
3752 antique blue vy lt 7876 976 --- --- ---
3753 antique blue ultra vy lt --- 128 --- --- ---
3755 baby blue --- 145 --- --- ---
3756 baby blue ultra vy lt --- 274 --- --- ---
3760 wedgewood 7975 --- --- --- ---
3761 sky blue lt --- 9159 --- --- ---
3765 peacock blue vy dk --- 170 --- --- ---
3766 peacock blue lt --- --- --- --- ---
3768 grey green dk --- 779
3770 flesh dk 3334 --- --- --- ---
3772 flesh dk 5579 379 --- --- ---
3773 sportsman flesh med --- 882 --- --- ---
3774 sportsman flesh vy lt --- 778 --- --- ---
3776 mahogany lt --- 349 --- --- ---
3777 terra cotta vy dk --- --- --- --- ---
3778 terra cotta lt --- 9575 --- --- ---
3779 terra cotta ultra vy lt --- 4146 --- --- ---
3781 mocha brown dk --- --- --- --- ---
3782 mocha brown lt --- 831 --- --- ---
3787 brown grey dk --- 393 --- --- ---
3790 beige grey ultra dk --- --- --- --- ---
3799 pewter grey vy dk 8999 236 --- --- ---
3801 christmas red lt --- --- --- --- ---
3802 antique mauve deep --- --- --- --- ---
3803 mauve med dk --- --- --- --- ---
3804 cyclamen pink dk --- --- --- --- ---
3805 cyclamen pink --- --- --- --- ---
3806 cyclamen pink lt --- --- --- --- ---
3807 cornflower blue --- --- --- --- ---
3808 turquoise ultra vy dk --- --- --- --- ---
3809 turquoise vy dk --- --- --- --- ---
3810 turquoise dark --- --- --- --- ---
3811 turquoise vy lt --- --- --- --- ---
3812 seagreen vy dk --- --- --- --- ---
3813 blue green lt --- --- --- --- ---
3814 aquamarine dk --- --- --- --- ---
3815 celadon green dk --- --- --- --- ---
3816 celadon green --- --- --- --- ---
3817 celadon green lt --- --- --- --- ---
3818 emerald green ultra vy dk --- --- --- --- ---
3819 moss green lt --- --- --- --- ---
3820 straw dk --- --- --- --- ---
3821 straw --- --- --- --- ---
3822 straw lt --- --- --- --- ---
3823 yellow ultra pale --- --- --- --- ---
3824 apricot lt --- --- --- --- ---
3825 pumpkin pale --- --- --- --- ---
3826 golden brown --- --- --- --- ---
3827 golden brown pale --- --- --- --- ---
3828 hazel nut brown --- --- --- --- ---
3829 old gold vy dk --- --- --- --- ---
3830 terra cotta --- --- --- --- ---
pastels 225 --- --- --- ---
citrus lt 2350 --- --- --- ---
citrus vy lt 2386 --- --- --- ---
brick dk 2975 --- --- --- ---
rose vy deep 3019 --- --- --- ---
christmas red dk 3021 --- --- --- ---
red 3047 --- --- --- ---
cranberry vy dk 3065 --- --- --- ---
baby pink 3067 --- --- --- ---
christmas red med 3072 --- --- --- ---
raspberry vy dk 3090 --- --- --- ---
flesh lt 3146 --- --- --- ---
dusty rose vy lt 3150 --- --- --- ---
antique rose lt 3173 --- --- --- ---
shell pink dk 3243 --- --- --- ---
antique violet dk 4224 --- --- --- ---
antique violet vy lt 4220 --- --- --- ---
lavender vy dk 4300 --- --- --- ---
old gold lt 5363 --- --- --- ---
fawn lt 5576 --- --- --- ---
fawn med 5578 --- --- --- ---
royal blue med 7143 --- --- --- ---
steel grey lt 8399 --- --- --- ---
steel grey 8401 --- --- --- ---
----------------------------------------------------------
B.4 Color Names/Conversion - Madeira/Au Ver A Soie/DMC
----------------------------------------------------------
Thanks to Dawn Scotting for this color conversion chart. Please note that
the Au Ver A Soie/DMC conversions are not necessarily the same as those in
Appendix B.3.
SILK FLOSS COLOUR NAME EMBROIDERY FLOSS
/ \ ----------- / \
Madeira Au Ver A Soie Madeira DMC
------- ------------- ------- ---
103 2523 Yellow 103 445
105 2325 Marigold 105 973
112 2521 Lemon 112 744
113 611 Harvest 113 743
114 612 Yellow Gold 114 742
204 634 Lt Orange 204 970
206 636 Dk Orange 206 608
210 916 Mandarin Orange 210 666
214 924 Frosted Orange 214 351
303 923 Blush 303 352
304 921 Salmon 304 353
305 1012 Taupe 305 754
306 1011 Beige 306 948
401 2636 Rust 401 355
402 2635 Clay 402 356
403 2642 Peach 403 758
502 2942 Mauve 502 818
503 2943 Pink 503 776
504 2944 Rose 504 3326
506 2945 Dk Rose 506 335
511 2946 Red 511 498
613 3021 Hot Pink 613 605
701 3024 Fuschia 701 603
703 3026 Azalea 703 601
711 3334 Lilac 711 554
713 3335 Purple 713 552
801 3311 Orchid 801 211
803 3312 Lavender 803 209
806 4633 Antique Rose 806 3041
807 4631 Iris 807 3042
811 4624 Brick 811 221
812 4623 Dusty Rose 812 223
813 4622 Medium Rose 813 224
815 4621 Rose Beige 815 513
901 1342 Lt Violet 901 341
902 1343 Passion 902 340
903 1344 Violet 903 333
1001 1432 Baby Blue 1001 775
1002 1433 Sky Blue 1002 3325
1003 1434 Med Blue 1003 334
1005 1423 Midnight 1005 312
1007 1424 Lt Navy 1007 336
1008 1425 Navy 1008 823
1102 115 Peacock 1102 995
1103 113 Electric Blue 1103 996
1104 123 Pastel Blue 1104 747
1105 124 Lake Blue 1105 519
1106 125 Teal Blue 1106 518
1107 126 Royal 1107 517
1112 5011 Turquoise 1112 964
1114 5013 Teal Green 1114 958
1204 1826 Hunter Green 1204 991
1210 211 Mint 1210 955
1212 213 Sea Foam 1212 913
1214 214 Emerald 1214 911
1309 1841 Lt Green 1309 369
1311 1842 Dill 1311 320
1312 1843 Forest 1312 367
1314 1844 Dark Green 1314 890
1405 2116 Christmas Green 1405 895
1407 2115 Avocado 1407 3346
1408 2114 Lime 1408 3347
1409 2113 Apple Green 1409 3348
1508 3726 Khaki 1508 3051
1510 3714 Olive 1510 3053
1602 1835 Army Green 1602 3363
1603 1832 Moss 1603 3364
1701 1831 Frosted Green 1701 504
1703 1834 Federal Green 1703 502
1704 3426 Slate Green 1704 501
1705 1846 Evergreen 1705 500
1706 1746 Gunmetal 1706 924
1707 1745 Putty 1707 926
1708 1814 Grey 1708 927
1709 1813 Silver 1709 928
1710 1714 Silver Blue 1710 932
1711 1715 Slate 1711 931
1712 1716 Wedgewood 1712 930
1714 1435 Dk Grey 1714 317
1802 1734 Med Grey 1802 318
1803 1733 Lt Grey 1803 415
1804 1732 Platinum 1804 762
1910 3431 Tan 1910 842
1912 3434 Taupe 1912 840
1914 3436 Brown 1914 838
2004 4136 Dk Brown 2004 3371
2006 4124 Chocolate 2006 898
2008 4122 Mahogany 2008 433
2012 4113 Camel 2012 437
2013 4112 Caramel 2013 738
2014 4111 Champagne 2014 739
2113 4131 Cinnamon 2113 829
2114 2236 Clove 2114 830
2207 2231 Fawn 2207 677
2208 2233 Ginger 2208 676
2209 2234 Lt Brass 2209 729
2210 2235 Brass 2210 680
2211 2244 Gold 2211 783
2213 2246 Antique Gold 2213 781
2306 2625 Copper 2306 301
2307 2623 Tangerine 2307 402
Ecru Creme Ecru Ecru Ecru
White Blanc White White White
Black Noir Black Black 310
-------------------------------------
B.5 DMC Organized By Color Family
-------------------------------------
Thanks to jipa...@aol.com for this list of DMC colors organized by family.
The 30 new colors are included.
DMC Color Shade
----- --------------- -----------
--- white
310 black
819 baby pink lt
818 baby pink
776 pink med
3326 rose lt
899 rose med
335 rose
309 rose deep
326 rose vy deep
3708 melon lt
3706 melon med
3705 melon dk
957 geranium pale
956 geranium
894 carnation vy lt
893 carnation lt
892 carnation med
891 carnation dk
3689 mauve lt
3688 mauve med
3687 mauve
3803 mauve med dk
3685 mauve dk
963 dusty rose ultra vy lt
3716 dusty rose vy lt
3354 dusty rose lt
3733 dusty rose
962 dusty rose med
961 dusty rose dk
3731 dusty rose vy dk
3350 dusty rose ultra dk
605 cranberry vy lt
604 cranberry lt
603 cranberry
602 cranberry med
601 cranberry dk
600 cranberry vy dk
225 shell pink ultra vy lt
224 shell pink vy lt
223 shell pink lt
3722 shell pink med
3721 shell pink dk
221 shell pink vy dk
3823 yellow vy lt pale
745 yellow lt pale
744 yellow pale
743 yellow med
742 tangerine lt
741 tangerine med
740 tangerine
3824 apricot lt
3341 apricot
3340 apricot med
3825 orange spice vy lt
722 orange spice lt
721 orange spice med
720 orange spice dk
970 pumpkin lt
971 pumpkin
608 bright orange
606 orange red bright
947 burnt orange
946 burnt orange med
900 burnt orange dk
746 off white
3078 golden yellow vy lt
3047 yellow beige lt
3046 yellow beige med
3045 yellow beige dk
677 old gold vy lt
676 old gold lt
629 old gold med
680 old gold dk
3829 old gold vy dk
834 golden olive vy lt
833 golden olive lt
832 golden olive
831 golden olive med
830 golden olive dk
829 golden olive vy dk
3770 flesh vy lt
951 flesh
945 flesh med
3774 sportsman flesh vy lt
950 sportsman flesh
3773 sportsman flesh med
407 sportsman flesh dk
3064 sportsman flesh vy dk
3772 flesh
632 flesh med
948 peach flesh vy lt
754 peach flesh lt
353 peach flesh
352 coral lt
351 coral
350 coral med
349 coral dk
817 coral red vy dk
3713 salmon vy lt
761 salmon lt
760 salmon
3712 salmon med
3328 salmon dk
347 salmon vy dk
3779 terra cotta ultra vy lt
758 terra cotta vy lt
3778 terra cotta lt
356 terra cotta med
3830 terra cotta med dk
355 terra cotta dk
3777 terra cotta vy dk
666 christmas red bright
3801 christmas red lt bright
321 christmas red
304 christmas red med
498 christmas red dk
816 garnet
815 garnet med
814 garnet dk
902 garnet vy dk
3609 plum ultra lt
3608 plum vy lt
3607 plum lt
718 plum
917 plum med
915 plum dk
211 lavender lt
210 lavender med
209 lavender dk
208 lavender vy dk
554 violet lt
553 violet
552 violet med
327 violet dk
550 violet vy dk
3747 blue violet vy lt
341 blue violet lt
340 blue violet med
3746 blue violet dk
333 blue violet vy dk
3743 antique violet vy lt
3042 antique violet lk
3041 antique violet med
3740 antique violet dk
778 antique mauve vy lt
3727 antique mauve lt
316 antique mauve med
3726 antique mauve dk
315 antique mauve vy dk
3802 antique mauve ult vy dk
445 lemon lt
307 lemon
444 lemon dk
973 canary bright
972 canary deep
727 topaz vy lt
726 topaz lt
725 topaz
783 topaz med
782 topaz dk
781 topaz vy dk
780 topaz ultra vy dk
712 cream
--- ecru
822 beige grey lt
644 beige grey med
642 beige grey dk
640 beige grey vy dk
3790 beige grey ultra dk
3024 brown grey vy lt
3023 brown grey lt
3022 brown grey med
3787 brown grey dk
3021 brown grey vy dk
543 beige brown ultra vy lt
842 beige brown vy lt
841 beige brown lt
840 beige brown med
839 beige brown dk
838 beige brown vy dk
729 tan ultra vy lt
738 tan vy lt
437 tan lt
436 tan
435 brown vy lt
434 brown lt
433 brown med
801 coffee brown dk
898 coffee brown vy dk
938 coffee brown ultra dk
3371 black brown
3033 mocha brown vy lt
3782 mocha brown lt
3032 mocha brown med
3781 mocha brown dk
3031 mocha brown vy dk
613 drab brown lt
612 drab brown med
611 drab brown dk
610 drab brown vy dk
372 mustard lt
371 mustard
370 mustard med
422 hazel nut brown lt
3828 hazel nut brown med
420 hazel nut brown dk
869 hazel nut brown vy dk
922 copper lt
921 copper
920 copper med
919 red copper
918 red copper dk
402 mahogany vy lt
3776 mahogany lt
301 mahogany med
400 mahogany dk
300 mahogany vy dk
3827 golden brown vy lt
977 golden brown lt
976 golden brown med
3826 golden brown med dk
975 golden brown dk
369 pistachio green vy lt
368 pistachio green lt
320 pistachio green med
367 pistachio green dk
319 pistachio green vy dk
890 pistachio green ultra dk
989 forest green
988 forest green med
987 forest green dk
986 forest green vy dk
907 parrot green lt
906 parrot green med
905 parrot green dk
904 parrot green vy dk
564 jade vy lt
563 jade lt
562 jade med
561 jade vy dk
966 baby green med
955 nile green lt
954 nile green
913 nile green med
912 emerald green lt
911 emerald green med
910 emerald green dk
909 emerald green vy dk
3818 emerald green ultra dk
704 chartreuse bright
703 chartreuse
702 kelly green
701 christmas green lt
700 christmas green bright
699 christmas green
772 yellow green vy lt
3348 yellow green lt
3347 yellow green med
3346 hunter green
3345 hunter green dk
895 hunter green vy dk
472 avocado green ultra lt
471 avocado green vy lt
470 avocado green lt
469 avocado green
937 avocado green med
935 avocado green dk
936 avocado green vy dk
934 avocado green ultra dk
3819 moss green lt
581 moss green
580 moss green dk
734 olive green lt
733 olive green med
732 olive green
731 olive green dk
730 olive green vy dk
3364 pine green
3363 pine green med
3362 pine green dk
3013 khaki green lt
3012 khaki green med
3011 khaki green dk
3053 green grey
3052 green grey med
3051 green grey dk
524 fern green vy lt
523 fern green lt
522 fern green
520 fern green dk
504 blue green lt
3813 blue green med lt
503 blue green med
502 blue green
501 blue green dk
500 blue green vy dk
993 aquamarine lt
992 aquamarine
3814 aquamarine pale med
943 aquamarine med
991 aquamarine dk
964 seagreen lt
959 seagreen med
958 seagreen dk
3812 seagreen vy dk
3811 turquoise vy lt
598 turquoise lt
597 turquoise
3810 turquoise med
3809 turquoise dk
3808 turquoise vy dk
3766 peacock blue lt
807 peacock blue
806 peacock blue dk
3765 peacock blue vy dk
747 sky blue vy lt
3761 sky blue lt
519 sky blue
518 wedgewood lt
3760 wedgewood
517 wedgewood med
3756 baby blue ultra vy lt
775 baby blue vy lt
3325 baby blue lt
3755 baby blue
334 baby blue med
322 navy blue vy lt
312 navy blue lt
311 navy blue med
336 navy blue
823 navy blue dk
939 navy blue vy dk
3753 antique blue ultra vy lt
3752 antique blue vy lt
932 antique blue lt
931 antique blue med
930 antique blue dk
3750 antique blue vy dk
828 blue ultra vy lt
827 blue vy lt
813 blue lt
826 blue med
825 blue dk
824 blue vy dk
800 delft pale
809 delft
799 delft med
798 delft dk
797 royal blue
796 royal blue dk
820 royal blue vy dk
996 electric blue med
995 electric blue dk
794 cornflower blue lt
793 cornflower blue med
3807 cornflower blue med dk
792 cornflower blue dk
791 cornflower blue vy dk
762 pearl grey vy lt
415 pearl grey
318 steel grey lt
414 steel grey dk
317 pewter grey
413 pewter grey dk
3799 pewter grey vy dk
535 ask grey vy lt
928 grey green vy lt
927 grey green lt
926 grey green med
3768 grey green dk
924 grey green vy dk
453 shell grey lt
452 shell grey med
451 shell grey dk
3072 beaver grey vy lt
648 beaver grey lt
647 beaver grey med
646 beaver grey dk
645 beaver grey vy dk
844 beaver grey ultra dk
--------------------------------------------
B.6 Conversion - Old J&P Coates to Other
--------------------------------------------
Thanks to Isobel Frystak <fry...@tesla.njit.edu> for this conversion table.
Old New
JPCoats JPCoats DMC Anchor
------- ------- ----- ------
1 1001 White 2
4A 3150 3689 48
5A 6001 907 255
8 7020 800 144
9 2292 3078 292
10A 2288 445 288
11 2302 742 303
12 8403 310 403
24 7159 827 160
24A 7161 3760 169
24B 7162 517 162
26 6030 954 203
28 6228 699 923
28B 6211 561 212
32 4300 -- 112
36 4101 327 100
37 4104 554 96
38 2314 741 304
38B 2330 947 330
43 2293 744 301
44 7100 796 133
46A 3001 604 55
46B 3153 962 75
48 6225 913 204
48A 6227 700 228
51C 5365 435 365
52 1002 712 926
54 4097 553 98
55 7045 -- --
58 2300 3047 852
59B 3063 602 63
59C 3065 3350 65
61 5387 Ecru 387
65 3151 605 50
69 7021 809 130
70 8397 3024 397
71 8399 -- --
75A 3337 920 1004
76 7023 -- --
81 5470 433 357
81B 5472 801 359
85 5933 822 390
86 5376 841 378
87 5379 840 379
90A 5363 -- 363
91 6226 912 209
91A 6205 911 205
98 6238 703 238
99 6239 702 226
100 3000 498 1005
108 7022 798 131
109 6258 987 244
120 3011 351 10
122 3056 600 59
124 3008 352 9
128 3087 3688 66
129 3088 3687 68
130 3089 3685 1028
132A 7001 996 433
135 3003 3354 74
137 3004 3350 59
140 3046 666 46
141 3500 321 9046
143 3021 816 1005
160 3066 225 1026
165 225 -- --
170 3080 778 968
171 3081 316 1017
172 3082 315 1019
181 201 62 1201
182 210 93 1210
183 212 52 1208
184 219 108 1219
186 2306 977 1002
188 214 114 1215
189 221 125 1213
190 204 107 1204
191 5349 400 351
192 209 61 1218
200 6015 369 1043
201 6185 959 186
205 6246 319 218
210 6017 320 215
213 5388 3782 899
215 6266 471 266
216 6267 580 281
218 3127 894 27
219 3128 601 57
220 7110 340 118
222 6186 958 187
223 2294 743 302
224 2327 740 316
226 3067 -- --
227 3013 347 1025
228 3012 3705 35
229 3019 304 19
230 6269 936 269
231 2303 742 303
232 3068 761 1021
233 3069 760 1022
234 3071 3328 1024
235 2307 783 306
237 2334 606 334
238 5382 3371 382
239 7010 995 410
241 3044 814 45
243 3125 3716 25
244 7030 799 136
245 7080 798 142
248 6256 906 256
253 2290 444 290
255 2298 972 298
256 2099 971 316
257 2305 -- --
258 2308 976 1001
259 2332 608 332
261 5347 -- 347
262 5374 869 944
264 5360 839 360
265 3006 353 6
266 3335 951 1010
267 2337 758 882
268 5356 975 355
269 6253 472 253
270 7050 932 1033
271 7051 931 1034
275 6875 504 1042