Fixing toasters

[Pat Kagi]

Rebuild

     I got a lot of 1940's-1950's chrome toasters recently, but unfortunately they all seem to have problems.  Does anyone any parts for these vintage items?

     Right now, I am working on a GE 159T77 toaster and can't get it apart.  Does anyone have any idea how this toaster comes apart?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Pat

P.S.      Does anyone want a free GMG Davy Crockett smoker?  It works and has a new ignitor.  These were very expensive when new.

[Pat Kagi]

Just want to let everyone know that the screws to take this toaster apart was under the side emblems, which I didn't know that they came off.  

Unfortunately I broke one of the bakelite side pieces in figuring this out.  Anyhow, maybe I'll find another one for parts or get another toaster to work on.  This toaster is really neat because it has an option of keeping the toast warm.  I've never seen that option before.

Pat

[Wayne Seltzer]

We see these beautiful, vintage, chrome toasters at the Boulder U-Fix-It Clinic every once in a while.

And, it sure is satisfying to get them safely working again.

Caution: Some of these toasters used asbestos sheets to hold the heating element.
And, chances are they haven't aged well and fibers are flaking away.
You don't want asbestos in your kitchen. I don't know of a fix for this.

Also, the power cord might be "cotton twist." Also not safe.
See: https://forums.mikeholt.com/threads/cloth-covered-wire.58520/

Assuming no asbestos in the toaster, replace the power cord with a new grounded type.
They make them with a braided jacket that looks like the original, but is safe.

- Wayne

[Richard Sato]

Hi in going through my old emails I don't remember sending you this T20 manual.

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[Wayne Seltzer]

Love the repair parts prices in this 1953 manual!

But, do be careful about asbestos:

https://ca.style.yahoo.com/old-toasters-era-might-hiding-103000858.html

- Wayne

[Richard Sato]

"repair parts prices in this 1953"

Yup and I remember when gas was $0.15 a gallon! Google says it got down to $0.10 in the '50s!

Seems like a dream today!

"do be careful about asbestos:"

Yup we replace all the wiring with fiberglass or silicone when possible. Don't carry a supply of that unfortunately. We do warn clients about this.

In the day - 1950 - '55 kids would bring asbestos rock to school and they'd play with it. I thought it was pretty cool. Same with mercury. Shining up dimes!

[Patrick Kagi]

Does anyone have any repair product for fixing broken mica on these old toasters?  I see that I can try using high temp silicone, but that would leave an orange blob.  I'm hoping to maybe smear something on to hold it back together.

Thanks,

Pat

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[Wayne Seltzer]

It's probably too much work, but if you're doing a restoration (beyond just a repair), you could purchase mica sheets and cut them to match the originals.
I've done this to replace microwave wave guide covers using a laser cutter, designed with a 2D CAD program.

Example of the material:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/376932793435

Or:
https://www.ashevillemica.com/household-and-consumer-mica/

My microwave waveguide cutter CAD design:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2736306

- Wayne

[Richard Sato]

This is from my heirloom appliance expert. He's in his middle 90s now:

'

Jim Carlisle

3:58 PM (6 hours ago)

	to me

Hi, Richard-

Before working on ANY Vintage appliance, recite the Oath of Hippocrates which tells you to "DO NO HARM!".  

The T77 Toaster is a Gem made by GE, and is very easy to disassemble - there are two nameplates that say "General Electric" - one on each end - they about a quarter-inch wide and two inches long - simply pry them off with a thin-blade knife, exposing a small, sheet metal screw holding the upper shell.  Pull off the two small curved knobs that control the "color" and "pop-up" levers, and the upper shell should be free.  On most models, the end pieces slide down away from the lower body, which can be removed by removing the screws holding it to the metal chassis.  

The toaster presents no hazards - the original cord is Type HPD, which is a cotton-covered asbestos-insulated cord, U/L Red Label, rated at 3,000 cycles (bends).  The elements are wound with flat nichrome wire on Mica Sheets - mica is a mineral substance mined from the earth, and presents no hazzard.  If you replace the cord, it must be type HPN, a neoprene cord rated to be used on a Heating Appliance.  DO NOT use a plastic insulated cord on a heating appliance.  It is not necessary to use a three-wire cord as the appliance was manufactured before they were required.  The only hazzard from the asbestos cord is if you inhale the fibers, which can cause lung cancer.  

If the mica element is damaged, there is no "glue" or silicone product which can be used to repair it - that flat nichrome wire gets red-hot and will burn anything but the original mica, or its replacement, Micarta board, which is the only suitable replacement.  Micarta board is used on some microwave ovens as a waveguide cover, and is readily-available in a size which can be cut to the shape and size to repair a broken element.  

When you work on a vintage appliance, remember that it is valuable to a collector and there are no replacement parts available from the factory, so be very careful not to cause irreparable harm.  

Jim C."

Richard

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[Patrick Kagi]

Thanks so much!  Great information and a good resource.   Unfortunately, I broke the handles on the toaster trying to take it apart.  Next time can I use him as a resource?

Pat

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[Richard Sato]

Sure his knowledge has no Limits in this area, but he’s getting very old. and his eyesight is going, but he’s still very sharp!

I told him that I need to upload him like in that series. It would probably only take about 10 to the 100 TB!

[Richard Sato]

I have used UV-setting resin for repairs like this, though I would like to test it first. You might think UV penetration would be an issue, but it doesn't seem to be. It works really well with materials like pottery and ceramic as well as bonding glass to metal.

[Richard Sato]

Handles were Bakelite? How did they break? I’ve used UV setting resin for repairs like this, but I’d like to test it first.

You think it have trouble with UV penetration, but it doesn’t seem to. It works really well with pottery for example an glass to metal as well.

On Wed, 7 Oct 2026 at 10:14 am, Richard Sato <fixer...@gmail.com> wrote: