Need special tool

[Patrick Kagi]

Does anyone recognize what tool is needed to take this screw out?  It appears to have 3 sides to it.  I don't want to damage the case.

Thanks,

Pat

[wes]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#Tri-point

a typical ifixit kit has a few sizes

-wes

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[Richard Sato]

How big it is? The iFix it kit is small. There are triwing bits that are larger but might need to ground

flat.

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[Patrick Kagi]

The screw is 1/4 inch in diameter.  If someone can send a link on where to purchase these tools, that would be great!  I don't want to borrow a tool because most likely I'll need to use it again in the future.

Thanks,

Pat

[wes]

this is the standard kit I use, which includes pry tools and other extras: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GF0KV6G

this one _just_ has the screwdriver bits and is half the price: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0189YWOIO

if you don't like amazon, you can also buy these directly from ifixit.com

-wes

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[Michael Farabee]

Hey Pat,

As others have said, this is a security screw. If your screw is a "one-way screw". It will have sloped sides (hard to tell from the picture), making it tamper resistant. Although there are tools that can be used for some of these, most of the time it required taking a Dremel tool or file and cutting off the slopes. I am not sure if that is the type of screw you have or not.

If you have access to the edges of the screw, you can grip it with small vice grips and twist it out. Replace the screw with a standard head.

As you work on more things, you will run into many different types (can be frustrating). One of the most common I see in the Torx head with the pin in the middle.

My recommendation is to buy the IFixit kit that was previously suggested. I have the same one and it works well. The problem with that kit is that it is for the smaller screws, so you may want to pick up a set for larger screws also, maybe something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/260-Piece-Ultimate-Precision-Screwdriver-Security/dp/B0DHVDQ36K

Even these can be a problem because sometimes the screw is deep in a recessed hole and the hole is too small to put the extension and bit holder into it. At that point, you will be buying specialty driver kits with long shafts. Pretty soon you will have a toolbox full of security screw drivers! My guess is that most of us have this after a few years of repair!

Hope this helps,

Mike

[Richard Sato]

Doesn’t look like it’s an anti-taper screw. Is that head in that kit Mike?

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[Pat Kagi]

I didn't see the tip that I needed, so I decided to cheat.

First, I put a nut on the top and applied just a bit of super glue and waited until it dried.

Next, I used a small socket set to gently turned the screw.

Success!  Now I will replace it with regular screws according to Mike.

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[Jeff Buchholz]

That wasn't a solution that any of us suggested, but we probably should have.  Thanks for documenting, and well done!

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[Richard Sato]

Very clever Patrick!

I seldom do that because I'm more the "Make my own Tool" guy!

What is this thing BTW?

[Pat Kagi]

Richard,

    This is a de jay portable phonograph in really nice condition.  It also has the original box.  Anyhow, we couldn't open it to take a look so she wanted to sell it.  She paid $5.00 at an estate sale and wanted $20.00 for it.  Like a dummy, I went ahead and bought it.  Probably shouldn't have because it needs a new cartridge.  I'll take some pictures when I get it done.

Oh well,

Pat

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[Pat Kagi]

Team,

    I'm working on another project that just came in today for repairs.  This is a battery powered phonograph that has rusty battery terminals.  Does anyone have an idea on how to clean these springs or tabs that are at the bottom of a two or three D cell compartment?

    The picture below shows a red arrow which points to the bottom.  Not sure how to clean this.  I need a long stick with a piece of sand paper at the end or a disc wire wheel with an extra long Dremel shaft.  

Thanks,

Pat

[Rudi Fruth]

Qtip with vinegar or similar? I can't get a full understanding from the photo. 

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[Michael Farabee]

Pat,

In my repair document, I discuss this:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/15C4988_y0QEhFczOwWRAZOGQx4y8nsB9/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=106109832596237043640&rtpof=true&sd=true

It depends on the type of corrosion (acid or base). If it is the white (Alkaline), you would do as Rudi states and use vinegar to neutralize it. If it is the dark brown or reddish corrosion, use baking soda. Isopropyl alcohol can help do the final cleanup. I will start with a small acid brush or toothbrush and get it as clean as possible. I find the white eraser work really good for cleaning without damaging the contacts. If the contacts are very pitted or worn, I may resort to a small nail file or contact file (used for pinball contacts). If it is possible to remove the battery terminals and they are in very bad condition, I will nickel plate them (You have seen my demonstration on how to nickel plate). Often when you have a lot of corrosion, there is also damage to the wires connecting to it and they may need to be replaced also.

MikeF