M4A3 75mm Build Project

[S.Schramm]

Hi guys, another dane joins the 1/6 scale hobby.

 

My plan is to build a battle ready Sherman M4A3 75mm

To aid me in the process, i got a hold of  "World War II AFV Plans, by George Bradford"

and a 1:35 plastic model of the Sherman.

 

So far i've been sketching the project up in solid works, and a model of a fully working vvss suspension is in the works.

I've seen that the suspension system can be done much easier, but i thought hey, it won't look like a real sherman without the proper vvss parts :)

 

[S.Schramm]

a picture of the drawing process so far.

My plan is to finish the model, and release it for others to use and modify.

[Niels Erik Kristensen]

Velkommen til!!  Velcome to another Dane-Where in Denmark do you live??

[pil...@comcast.net]

did you model that as an assembly?

---

From: "S.Schramm" <ssr7...@gmail.com>
To: rctank...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2013 10:44:46 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: M4A3 75mm Build Project

a picture of the drawing process so far.

My plan is to finish the model, and release it for others to use and modify.

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[Odyssey...@aol.com]

man i wish i knew how to do stuff like that..........

 

Chris

[S.Schramm]

Did u get my message, I think I replyed to author, instead of normal reply... i'm trying to get used to the google groups system ;)

[pil...@comcast.net]

yep I saw that you did it as an assembly

---

From: "S.Schramm" <ssr7...@gmail.com>
To: rctank...@googlegroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2013 1:11:22 PM
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: M4A3 75mm Build Project

[S.Schramm]

A picture of the almost finished aluminium vvss housing.

 

 

[Pete Curran]

That will be one awesome M4 when you are done

 

From: rctank...@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctank...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of S.Schramm
Sent: Friday, 5 April 2013 9:59 PM
To: rctank...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: M4A3 75mm Build Project

 

A picture of the almost finished aluminium vvss housing.

 

 

 

--

[Odyssey...@aol.com]

WOW! (wipes drool from keyboard.......)

 

Chris

[Odyssey...@aol.com]

that's just amazing looking? can we see any more pictures of it?

 

now are you doing the mill work yourself by hand, cnc, machine shop???

 

Chris

[S.Schramm]

Hi Chris, It's being cnc milled where i work. I design and a make constructions in Solid Works for a living, and just outside my office there is 2 cnc milling machines. Sometimes they are very busy, and sometimes they produce tank parts for my project ;)

 

[Robert Currie]

NICE !!!!  a great start !

[S.Schramm]

Regarding the control system for my M4 Sherman. I've been looking all over RCTC, in the tank descriptions and in the different treads, trying to figure out the best solution. Would love to have proportional steering. What are you guys installing in your tanks as of 2013? I found that the C12C Control System looks very promissing. So on to the next step, how do i aquire / buy a complete C12C setup with some instructions regarding wireing and component layout. Im not the big electrician, but i can read schematics and have basic knowledge of AC DC components.

[Frank Pittelli]

The C12C is not currently being sold because of stocking issues (too
many projects, too little time). But, it is only one part of the
control system needed for a tank. Here's a basic guideline for the
necessary systems and what can be used to implement them. You can make
it cheaper or more expensive and you can make it simpler or more
complex, but this is a good place to start.

1) A stock 5 or 6 channel RC transmitter/receiver. The C12C is just one
such system. Numerous 2.4Ghz RC packages are now available for less
money (less than $50 from China and around $100 in the US). Some have
more features than others, but tanks generally don't need all the fancy
features. Servo-reverse is basically the only required feature.

2) You'll need either a dual motor controller or two separate motor
controllers plus a mixing circuit. Affordable options include the
Sabretooth 2x25 ($125) and Sabretooth 2x60 ($190), depending on the size
of your motors and their current draw. We've also recently started
experimenting with the Talon SR Speed Controller ($60). That's a single
motor controller, so you'll need two of them and a mixing circuit ($40),
which puts the total price in the same ballpark as a dual motor
controller. If your radio system already has tank-style channel mixing,
then you won't need the additional mixing circuit. Even when scratch
built with custom parts, getting the price below $100 is nearly
impossible for a repeatable, reliable and easily wired solution.

3) A rotate system is nothing more than a motor ($10), a drive mechanism
(gear, pulley, chain, or friction wheel) and either a servo ($10) and a
simple pair of switches ($2) to provide on-off control or an inexpensive
12V speed control ($25-40). Rotate motors don't require a lot of
current, usually less than 5A in normal usage.

4) An elevate system can be implemented using either a stock servo or a
simple motor with on-off controls. If the gun assembly is properly
balanced (add small weights until perfection is achieved), then 1/4
scale servos ($30) should handle the job. There are also new, high-tech
servo gear-head products that provide more torque/precision ($100). A
low RPM motor ($10-15) can also provide the same capabilities, while
being cheaper and more powerful.

5) Fire control is the simplest of all systems. If your marker has an
electronic trigger, you only need a stock servo ($10) and a micro-switch
($1). If your marker has a manual trigger, a stock servo ($10) can be
used to pull the trigger directly or a door-lock actuator ($6) and a
servo/switch ($11) can pull the trigger. Despite the slight extra cost
and components, the door-lock actuator is the best solution because it
can pull the trigger faster than a servo and is easier to mount to the gun.

Here are just some of the many web sites that supply the various parts
described above:

http://www.hobby-lobby.com - Spectrum 2.4Ghz radios
http://www.hobbyking.com - Turnigy 2.4Ghz radios (US warehouse)

http://www.dimensionengineering.com - Sabertooth dual motor controllers
http://www.andymark.com - Talon SR motor controller

http://www.servocity.com - servos, gear heads, mounts, RC switch

http://www.allelectronics.com - door lock actuator, switches, motors
http://www.mpja.com - switches, motors

[Robert Currie]

Wow !

I found a little help here but.... Talk about the ..."EASY BUTTON" ..... where is the thrill of the hunt? Satisfaction in finding that impossible part?
Imagination and resourcefulness is a terrible thing to squander!

[Odyssey...@aol.com]

frank, what happened to that small system you were trying out that could be used with a scooter controller that was to have given up proportional forward and reverse (i forget if it was for 1 or 2 motors) making for a nice modular system?

 

Chris

[Odyssey...@aol.com]

In a message dated 5/22/2013 1:51:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rcrober...@gmail.com writes:

I found a little help here but.... Talk about the ..."EASY BUTTON" ..... where is the thrill of the hunt? Satisfaction in finding that impossible part?
Imagination and resourcefulness is a terrible thing to squander!

nothing, but at the same time people tend to find useful things in the oddest places, some places we might not even think about that we sometimes look at on a regular basis. so offered help is always welcomed in any form either from/for mechanical problems to electrical. and then there are some that don't always have time to go looking through tons of sites and links that end up being of no use or just questionable of them being able to deliver - that's where help like frank posted comes in handy as some of these guys have bough from some of these sites before and give the site the thumbs up for others to go check out.

 

been there, done that, buy from them here, stay away from those over here

 

Chris

[Frank Pittelli]

The total cost for the "inexpensive", yet reliable solutions that Joe
and I have implemented over the years are only marginally less than the
various mass-produced products currently on the market. Over 10 years
ago home-grown solutions were significantly less than the market
offered, so we pursued them. Over the years, market prices have come
down, reliability has gone up and our custom solutions are no longer
needed. Ride the market waves or be rolled over by them ... simple choice.

[Mike Mangus]

 Another for firing an electronic trigger marker is an electronic on/off switch.  The Turnigy switch from Hobby King costs less than $7.  Course, there is shipping too ... heh.

 

Mike

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/- Spectrum 2.4Ghz radios
http://www.hobbyking.com/- Turnigy 2.4Ghz radios (US warehouse)

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/- Sabertooth dual motor controllers
http://www.andymark.com/- Talon SR motor controller

http://www.servocity.com/- servos, gear heads, mounts, RC switch

http://www.allelectronics.com/- door lock actuator, switches, motors
http://www.mpja.com/- switches, motors

On 5/22/2013 8:26 AM, S.Schramm wrote:
> Regarding the control system for my M4 Sherman. I've been looking all
> over RCTC, in the tank descriptions and in the different treads, trying
> to figure out the best solution. Would love to have proportional
> steering. What are you guys installing in your tanks as of 2013? I found
> that the C12C Control System looks very promissing. So on to the next
> step, how do i aquire / buy a complete C12C setup with some instructions
> regarding wireing and component layout. Im not the big electrician, but
> i can read schematics and have basic knowledge of AC DC components.

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[Frank Pittelli]

Agreed. But I deliberately left out the various "RC Switch" options
because:

(a) there are a lot of different technologies used (drivers, FETs,
relays, etc) that require some electronics background to understand the
subtle differences

(b) most of the ones that provide functionality equivalent to a MAG
Speed Control (servo with two switches wired as a mechanical H-bridge)
are much more expensive then a servo and two switches

(c) servo and switches are really, really simple, making them really
easy to install and trouble-shoot in the field.

I'm a big believer that everyone should start with the truly simple
solution, before looking for the "better" solution. That way, they'll
have a working benchmark to judge alternatives against. And, after they
gain lots of experience (aka. failures) with the "better" solutions,
they'll know just how sweet the simple solution really was.

Bear in mind, "simple" doesn't mean "inferior" either. I have servos
that are over 20 years old that have gone to hell and back (sunk too
many times in warships, jolted hard in tanks with no suspensions, etc)
and they are still working just fine. 20A micro-switches are made for
literally millions of cycles and cost $1 or less from surplus stores.
There's certainly enough room in any tank so that volume isn't an issue.
It takes only a few minutes to swap out switches and/or servos if
something does go wrong.

That said, I have multiple prototype boards that implement MAG Speed
Controls using relays and FETs to replace servo/switch solutions.
Definitely more expensive, slightly better reliability and slightly more
compact. The production versions will become my "go to" RC part for
elevate, rotate and trigger control, but it's taken many iterations over
the years to zero in on an approach that can service all the different
ways that those systems can be operated.

[TyngTech]

Frank wrote:

"We've also recently started 
experimenting with the Talon SR Speed Controller ($60).  That's a single 
motor controller, so you'll need two of them and a mixing circuit ($40), 
which puts the total price in the same ballpark as a dual motor 
controller."

The servo mixers are down in the $15 range from Robotmarketplace.com.  I'll be testing one of these tonight with two Talons.  Even if a mixer is required, the $135 spent on two Talons and a mixer is the lowest per amp cost of any 60+ amp motor controller setup I've seen to date.  Also, a very nice advantage to a two controller setup are lower replacement costs if a part breaks.  A few years ago I blew a FET on one channel of my dual channel RD-80 controller.  Had to replace the entire unit for $300.  With two Talons, the same repair would have been $60.  My next tank will be running Talons with a spare in the toolbox.

Steve

[Derek Engelhaupt]

The duals are nice too because they are also much smaller packages for the most part.  You can fit them in tighter spaces.

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[Derek Engelhaupt]

I meant singles....no duals.

[Frank Pittelli]

My bad. I did a quick search for mixing circuits and found the
venerable (but high priced) IMX-1. Glad to see cheaper options exist.
I've always relied on my own mixing circuits, which cost much, much more
even if only the minimum wage applies ;-)

I wholeheartedly agree with Steve's statement that a more modular
solution (that doesn't significantly increase the number of wires in the
system) is a big win from a maintenance standpoint. We've been
searching over the years for a well-made, reasonably-priced, single
channel controller with an RC interface and the Talon SR appears to be
the winner in that category. Made in the USA is nice too.

Now, we just need to abuse the Talon for many hours while battling to
see how it holds up. Few RC competitions draw large currents through
the controllers for up to 60 minutes like our battles. The Tiger will
be using them during the next battle.

[Frank Pittelli]

Easier to replace. Check.

Fit into tight spaces. Check.

Individual controllers also allow you to mount each controller next to
each motor, making it easier to install, wire and trouble-shoot. And,
if you mount the controller on the motor itself or on the same mounting
structure that the motor uses, then you can more easily take the entire
assembly out of the tank for maintenance, repair, and cleaning (the
often overlooked, but important design goals).

On 5/22/2013 4:27 PM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
> The SINGLES are nice too because they are also much smaller packages

[Mike Mangus]

 Agreed for the most part, though I think a person cannot get any simpler than a plug and play electronic switch.  The Strv has zero servos in it.

 

Mike

From: Frank Pittelli <frank.p...@gmail.com>
To: rctank...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 2:46 PM
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: M4A3 75mm Build Project

[Frank Pittelli]

However ... you are a veteran R/C combat dude (some say god).

Was that the first thing you bought for the first RC control system you
ever built?

[Mike Mangus]

 Might be showing my age (or that of my Uncle) ...  an escapement.  ;)

 But the point is made.  Servos.  Usually included with most radio systems.  :)

Mike

---

From: Frank Pittelli <frank.p...@gmail.com>
To: rctank...@googlegroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 4:47 PM

Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: M4A3 75mm Build Project

[Odyssey...@aol.com]

what size are the motors will you be using to test the Talon SR with?

 

Chris

[Odyssey...@aol.com]

so using 2 Talon SR's and a mixer is about the same value & price as the scooter throttle controller you were testing last year (if not better?)

 

Chris

[Frank Pittelli]

The Talons have/will be tested with stock 350W scooter motors operated
as aggressively as humanly possible for no less than one hour of sheer
battling hell. The only test we know how to run.

With the mixer that Steve mentioned, the retail cost for the Talon
solution is $135. The Anvilus Controller designed and sold by Joe
Sommer cost roughly $140 including the cost of the custom board and the
SSRs (when we could get them surplus). The cost of my solution, which
included a controller board, two relay boards and two scooter
controllers would have been around $120, but required more wiring
(modularity does have a disadvantage).

*If* the Talon proves reliable on the battlefield, it will rise to the
top of my recommendation list for motor controllers. We knew that it
was just a matter of time before the robot market created the products
that we need at reasonable prices. It just took them 10+ years to get here.

On 5/22/2013 6:15 PM, Odyssey...@aol.com wrote:
> what size are the motors will you be using to test the Talon SR with?
>

[Derek Engelhaupt]

That Talon SR looks like a modified IFI Victor ESC.  If I'm in the market for new ESC's I'll have to check them out.

Derek

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[Robert Currie]

I'm not against help in any way Chris ...as I said I have had help from Frank P , Joe S,John P and many others who have shared there knowledge
This hobby would not thrive as it has without fellow tankers lending a helping hand
What I am saying is that by giving out all the answers there is a little accomplishment lost in what you need and what will work in your tank
And some just wont the quick fix "easy button"
By researching the parts you need ....you learn more about how your tank works and be able to service it when it breaks down ....
I you look hard enough you will find the holy grail
Not stirring the pot
Rob Currie

[Odyssey...@aol.com]

In a message dated 5/22/2013 6:58:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, frank.p...@gmail.com writes:

The Talons have/will be tested with stock 350W scooter motors operated
as aggressively as humanly possible for no less than one hour of sheer
battling hell.  The only test we know how to run.

With the mixer that Steve mentioned, the retail cost for the Talon
solution is $135.  The Anvilus Controller designed and sold by Joe
Sommer cost roughly $140 including the cost of the custom board and the
SSRs (when we could get them surplus).  The cost of my solution, which
included a controller board, two relay boards and two scooter
controllers would have been around $120, but required more wiring
(modularity does have a disadvantage).

*If* the Talon proves reliable on the battlefield, it will rise to the
top of my recommendation list for motor controllers.  We knew that it
was just a matter of time before the robot market created the products
that we need at reasonable prices.  It just took them 10+ years to get here.

sums it all up for me for what i wanted to know - thanks, will await your testing results.

 

the through of more wiring didn't even occur to me (was thinking more of plug n play)

 

Chris

[Odyssey...@aol.com]

oh, while i'm thinking of it, will you be adding the optional 40 mm fan or adding any other additional cooling device?

 

Chris

[S.Schramm]

  Thank you so much for all your advise and answers. For a newbee like myself wanting to get into to the hobby, there is sooooo many questions. @Robert, there are several reasons why I ask of help the way i do,

1. I live in Denmark, a great contry, but really no so much for hobbyists. We have a lot of hobby stores selling stock vehicles, planes and such. But when it comes to parts, bits, relays and circuit boards, the items available is somewhat limited.

2. So we look to Hobbyking and Uk stores for our bits and pieces which is fine, but if I need to go trial and error on a project like this several times, my hobby funds will soon come to a halt. Thats why i'm looking for a sort of guideline, proven setups if you will.

3. I would love to spread the word of 1/6 scale tank warfare in scandinavia, and get friends to join in. To do that I need to be able to spread your advise and experience to other interested but in a more guided manner, like Franks kind reply. I really can't see the fun in spending hundreds of hours surfing for parts over the net, when we could be engaged in tank battle already, with some help and guidelines :)

Søren Schramm

[Robert Currie]

Again I am not against anyone asking for help and I have nothing against that at all.......Søren Schramm You have a great start to a fine Tank and you will 

get all the help you need here there are a great bunch of Tankers to help you 

Again ....not stirring the pot and My point is lost :  ( 

Rob Currie

[Neil Rochford]

Søren welcome to the hobby. There have been other Scandinavian builders over the years that have built fine tanks, I hope you become one yourself soon, your Sherman parts look excellent .

I think Rob Currie`s point was that the more people buy electronic speed controllers and test them, then the more information the group will have as a consequence. 

I think I myself was the first to use a "sabertooth 2X25" in battle and I found that they are ok for a while at least but will need to be replaced after a year or two. I have just bought a "sabertooth 2X60" and it works great but has not yet seen battle, let alone a few years of battle. I do like the look of these "Talon" controllers, I have just written to my supplier in the UK (Technobots) to ask if they are going to be stocked here. Id like to give them a try myself, when I do I`ll pass on my findings, good or bad, to the group. I think this was all Robert was trying to say.

Neil R

[Pete Curran]

Schramm,

Any chance you could send me the 3d files for the suspension unit, so I can try it out on my 3d printer

 

 

Pete

www.angelfire.com/mech/sherman

 

 

From: rctank...@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctank...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of S.Schramm
Sent: Saturday, 6 April 2013 3:29 AM
To: rctank...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: M4A3 75mm Build Project

 

A picture of the almost finished aluminium vvss housing.

 

 

 

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[Mike Lyons]

I used a Dimension Engineering PicoSwitch (see http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/picoswitch ) in Bazooka Joe.  It's a nice little relay with a green LED that lights when the relay contacts are closed.  There is a also an audible click as the relay changes state.  There are two screw terminals and an RC plug - couldn't be simpler.  Polarity is not an issue on the contacts.  I soldered a pair of wires across the trigger contacts of my electronic marker (so I can fire it manually as needed for testing) and screwed the other ends into the relay.  It fires when the RC control is about half-way to one end.

I'm about to test a Pololu low-side MOSFET switch a (see http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1210 ) and will report when I have news.  This will require some soldering but is less than half the price.  My marker trigger switch operates on the low side (connecting the electronics to the circuit ground) so this is ideal.  The circuit diagrams I could find for the Turnigy thing seem to indicate it's a high-side switch.

On Wednesday, May 22, 2013 3:19:44 PM UTC-4, Mike Mangus wrote:

 Another for firing an electronic trigger marker is an electronic on/off switch.  The Turnigy switch from Hobby King costs less than $7.  Course, there is shipping too ... heh.

 

Mike

From: Frank Pittelli <frank.p...@gmail.com>
To: rctank...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: M4A3 75mm Build Project

... 

5) Fire control is the simplest of all systems.  If your marker has an 
electronic trigger, you only need a stock servo ($10) and a micro-switch
($1).

...

[Frank Pittelli]

Both are decent products. It's just a shame, however, that they can
only control a single device using a full servo channel. They could
have easily added a dual relay or two MOSFETs to control two devices
using a single servo channel without much additional cost.

On 9/9/2013 5:10 PM, Mike Lyons wrote:
> I used a Dimension Engineering PicoSwitch (see
> http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/picoswitch ) in Bazooka
> Joe.

[Mike Lyons]

Agreed.  It would be very nice to have a SPDT R/C switch instead of the SPST functionality each of these provides.

[TyngTech]

Well Frank,  I see a void in the market in regards to a double throw R/C switch.  Since you have the code you wrote for my custom warship gun switches, it'd be a simple matter for Cheap Control Systems to get something on the market ASAP!

S

On Monday, September 9, 2013 5:30:54 PM UTC-4, Frank Pittelli wrote:

[Frank Pittelli]

Simple, yes. Profitable, NO.

That said, I will be starting work on some prototype circuits after the
next battle. So, if anyone has suggestions, now's the time to post them.

[Mike Lyons]

DPDT (good for fwd-off-rev for small motors).
Solder connections for switch contacts sized for optional screw terminals.

Status LED(s) nice but not necessary.

On Tuesday, September 10, 2013 5:57:16 PM UTC-4, Frank Pittelli wrote:

Simple, yes.  Profitable, NO.

That said, I will be starting work on some prototype circuits after the
next battle.  So, if anyone has suggestions, now's the time to post them.

...

[TyngTech]

Not to difficult to build your own.

This switch controls four on/off functions using two R/C channels.  Frank can supply the PIC's!

S

[TyngTech]

Sorry, my bad.  The pictured device can control eight on/off functions using four r/c channels.

S

[Frank Pittelli]

Based on my experience (having destroyed way too many circuits), R/C
switches need safeguards to keep the logic and load side completely
separated. Relay-based switches provide the separation naturally.
FET-based switches need an opto-isolator to achieve the same isolation.
The PIC also needs some input filtering to work reliably with some of
the newer 3.3v receivers when using a servo cable longer than 12 inches.
A good-old op-amp or driver chip works well.

[S.Schramm]

Hi Frank.

I've been away from the project for a while due to Family expansion v.03 going on, and home improvements :)

I've been reading through all the really good answers, pros and cons of different hardware. I reached the point where i need to get my hands on some eletronics.

In the piece quoted  below you talk about tank style channel mixing. I own a spektrum DX6i, and i found some specs regarding mixing:

• Compatible with any existing DSM & DSM2 receivers
• Airplane Programming Features: Flaps, P-mixes, Dual aileron, V-tail, Delta, Differential
• Heli Programming Features: Gyro adjust, Graphic throttle curve, Graphic pitch curve, P-mixes, Revo mix, Swash type (Normal, and CCPM 120)

 

Can you tell from the specs if it has the mixing feature or not ?

 

" 2) You'll need either a dual motor controller or two separate motor
controllers plus a mixing circuit.  Affordable options include the
Sabretooth 2x25 ($125) and Sabretooth 2x60 ($190), depending on the size
of your motors and their current draw.  We've also recently started

experimenting with the Talon SR Speed Controller ($60).  That's a single
motor controller, so you'll need two of them and a mixing circuit ($40),
which puts the total price in the same ballpark as a dual motor

controller.  If your radio system already has tank-style channel mixing,
then you won't need the additional mixing circuit.  Even when scratch
built with custom parts, getting the price below $100 is nearly
impossible for a repeatable, reliable and easily wired solution. "

[Frank Pittelli]

Sorry, but I don't have any experience with the DX6 and I'm not sure
what "P-mixes" do or the specifics of the V-tail mixing. Perhaps
someone who has used that radio can provide more details.

On 5/23/2014 3:37 AM, S.Schramm wrote:
> In the piece quoted below you talk about tank style channel mixing. I
> own a spektrum DX6i, and i found some specs regarding mixing:

> #
> # Compatible with any existing DSM & DSM2 receivers
> # Airplane Programming Features: Flaps, P-mixes, Dual aileron, V-tail,
> Delta, Differential
> # Heli Programming Features: Gyro adjust, Graphic throttle curve, Graphic

[Mike Mangus]

P-Mix is short for "programmable mixing" which allows the user to slave any channel to a second channel.  Usually the p-mix can set the type of interaction (one way or two way between channels), the rate of mixing, and sometimes exponential rate of mixing between the channels.

 

V-tail is a pre-set mixing between two channels, usually the rudder and elevator channels.  Dual aileron mix is another preset mix between the aileron channel and channel 6.

 

I usually use the p-mix on a tank to combine the aileron channel with the elevator channel for a single stick control of movement. 

 

Hope this helped.  :)

 

Mike M

 

From: Frank Pittelli <frank.p...@gmail.com>
To: rctank...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2014 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: M4A3 75mm Build Project

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[Frank Pittelli]

Thanks Mike. That answers the original question precisely.

[Søren Schramm Rasmussen]

Thank you very much, that helped me out alot :D

Great, now i need to get those cnc milling machines running again, so the project can come alive again :)

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