(Kind of) New Here
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Khr_1991
Oct 6, 2015, 9:42:20 PM10/6/15
to R/C Tank Combat
Hello
I'm (Kind of) New Here, I joined a while back and was going to make a Panzer 2 tank. I never got around to it, obviously. I got busy with "Life" and just lost the time to do anything. I left just about every hobby I had as well. I now am getting some more time, and getting back into a few hobbies, RC being one. I still have the want to build one, but something different this time. I wasn't in contact much with my dad back then, and he was also busy with work, he'd be gone 2-3 weeks at a time. well now we are both older, and I think this would be good to bond over, and I think he thinks so too.
So I'd like to reintroduce myself, and of course, ask questions! I have made a list of a few tanks I'd like to build, so I'll be picking from them (hopefully) They are not in any particular order
M60 Patton (Local VFW has a 1:1 real tank outside)
KV-2 (big turret should give lots of room for the paintball gear)
T-34-76 model 1943 (just like the looks of this tank)
KV-85/IS-1 (again, the looks. bigger badder KV1 :P )
Panzer III Ausf. L (Love the looks of this, I used to have a 1/16th scale one that shot airsoft pellets)
Jagdpanther OR SU-100 (I think these would be an easy Tank Destroyer to build)
Churchill (seems easy and big to build to fit thing)
Tiger I (of course it makes my list, it's the face of tanks)
I don't think he would care about what tank it is, but probably any with a turret is my guess. We haven't decided much, as I'm out research team :P We did decide that the power wheels would be what we want to use for motors, unless there is something better that will fit in the budget we have planned for those.
As for a controller, would a PlayStation wireless controller be able to work with this? I remember seeing something about using it, but couldn't find it on the website?
My Dad is good with fiberglass, and thinks that if we can shape some foam to the shape we need for the hull and such, we can make it mostly out of fiberglass. How well will this fair with paintballs striking this? I doubt it will ever make it to a battle being in Michigan, but maybe if we build it, more will come.
Anyways,any advice is much appreciated.
I'm (Kind of) New Here, I joined a while back and was going to make a Panzer 2 tank. I never got around to it, obviously. I got busy with "Life" and just lost the time to do anything. I left just about every hobby I had as well. I now am getting some more time, and getting back into a few hobbies, RC being one. I still have the want to build one, but something different this time. I wasn't in contact much with my dad back then, and he was also busy with work, he'd be gone 2-3 weeks at a time. well now we are both older, and I think this would be good to bond over, and I think he thinks so too.
So I'd like to reintroduce myself, and of course, ask questions! I have made a list of a few tanks I'd like to build, so I'll be picking from them (hopefully) They are not in any particular order
M60 Patton (Local VFW has a 1:1 real tank outside)
KV-2 (big turret should give lots of room for the paintball gear)
T-34-76 model 1943 (just like the looks of this tank)
KV-85/IS-1 (again, the looks. bigger badder KV1 :P )
Panzer III Ausf. L (Love the looks of this, I used to have a 1/16th scale one that shot airsoft pellets)
Jagdpanther OR SU-100 (I think these would be an easy Tank Destroyer to build)
Churchill (seems easy and big to build to fit thing)
Tiger I (of course it makes my list, it's the face of tanks)
I don't think he would care about what tank it is, but probably any with a turret is my guess. We haven't decided much, as I'm out research team :P We did decide that the power wheels would be what we want to use for motors, unless there is something better that will fit in the budget we have planned for those.
As for a controller, would a PlayStation wireless controller be able to work with this? I remember seeing something about using it, but couldn't find it on the website?
My Dad is good with fiberglass, and thinks that if we can shape some foam to the shape we need for the hull and such, we can make it mostly out of fiberglass. How well will this fair with paintballs striking this? I doubt it will ever make it to a battle being in Michigan, but maybe if we build it, more will come.
Anyways,any advice is much appreciated.
Frank Pittelli
Oct 7, 2015, 3:03:37 PM10/7/15
to rctank...@googlegroups.com
1) The most important selection criteria for your tank should be: Pick
the one that you think is cool. You'll be spending way more time
building and showing off your tank then you will be battling it. So,
despite the many past threads that talk about one "advantage" or
another, just build the one that you want to build.
2) It takes roughly the same amount of time to build virtually any tank
or tank destroyer. The amount of time depends way more on your building
skills, materials used and how nice you want things to be, then on the
type of vehicle being built. Size does matter, however. The smaller
the vehicle, the harder the build. So, stick to something in the 3 ft
range for your first vehicle. You can still pick any vehicle, just
scale it so that you have plenty of room to solve installation problems.
3) Power wheel motors (ie. kiddie car motors) are *not* a good choice
because they simply don't have enough power to move a tracked vehicle in
grass. For not much more money, you should buy a pair of scooter
motors. They provide plenty of power, they don't abuse batteries and
they'll last forever.
4) Yes, a Playstation wireless controller can be used with a C12C
controller to operate a tank, but you can also buy an inexpensive 2.4Ghz
R/C transmitter/receiver to operate the vehicle. But, don't worry about
the electronics until you have something to operate. All you need to
test things in the workshop is a couple of basic switches and/or relays
and some wire. Once the motors and tracks are working on the bench,
it's a simple matter to purchase and wire up motor controllers and radio
gear for remote control.
5) Fiberglass is plenty strong enough to withstand paintball hits. The
venerable T001 has been battled over a decade with a fiberglass hull and
turret with no signs of failure.
the one that you think is cool. You'll be spending way more time
building and showing off your tank then you will be battling it. So,
despite the many past threads that talk about one "advantage" or
another, just build the one that you want to build.
2) It takes roughly the same amount of time to build virtually any tank
or tank destroyer. The amount of time depends way more on your building
skills, materials used and how nice you want things to be, then on the
type of vehicle being built. Size does matter, however. The smaller
the vehicle, the harder the build. So, stick to something in the 3 ft
range for your first vehicle. You can still pick any vehicle, just
scale it so that you have plenty of room to solve installation problems.
3) Power wheel motors (ie. kiddie car motors) are *not* a good choice
because they simply don't have enough power to move a tracked vehicle in
grass. For not much more money, you should buy a pair of scooter
motors. They provide plenty of power, they don't abuse batteries and
they'll last forever.
4) Yes, a Playstation wireless controller can be used with a C12C
controller to operate a tank, but you can also buy an inexpensive 2.4Ghz
R/C transmitter/receiver to operate the vehicle. But, don't worry about
the electronics until you have something to operate. All you need to
test things in the workshop is a couple of basic switches and/or relays
and some wire. Once the motors and tracks are working on the bench,
it's a simple matter to purchase and wire up motor controllers and radio
gear for remote control.
5) Fiberglass is plenty strong enough to withstand paintball hits. The
venerable T001 has been battled over a decade with a fiberglass hull and
turret with no signs of failure.
Khr_1991
Oct 8, 2015, 6:13:56 PM10/8/15
to R/C Tank Combat
How many watts should I look for on the the scooter motor? And I'm also going to go with the higher volts is more efficient than low voltage? Would 2 car batteries hooked up for 24v work, or would it not have enough run time and weight too much.
I talked with my dad and he wants a tank from ww2. I like the Pershing, the T23 with the vertical volume spring suspension. Would this be a legal tank?
I'm also thinking that a German Tank Destroyer or German Captured KV2 might be built after or before, so we have experience with building one, and we can battle each other.
Ben Holko
Oct 8, 2015, 7:03:08 PM10/8/15
to rctank...@googlegroups.com
Motor size would depend on the weight of your vehicle. Most people with these are using 300 watt, some 400 watt and if the vehicle is smaller and lighter then a pair of 250watt should suffice.
All units operating well are running at 24v.
Ben
________________________________________
From: rctank...@googlegroups.com [rctank...@googlegroups.com] on behalf of Khr_1991 [gamew...@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2015 9:13 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: Re: [TANKS] (Kind of) New Here
How many watts should I look for on the the scooter motor? And I'm also going to go with the higher volts is more efficient than low voltage? Would 2 car batteries hooked up for 24v work, or would it not have enough run time and weight too much.
I talked with my dad and he wants a tank from ww2. I like the Pershing, the T23 with the vertical volume spring suspension. Would this be a legal tank?
I'm also thinking that a German Tank Destroyer or German Captured KV2 might be built after or before, so we have experience with building one, and we can battle each other.
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Derek Engelhaupt
Oct 8, 2015, 7:49:41 PM10/8/15
to rctank...@googlegroups.com
My KV-2 is using 450W motors but mine weighs a ton with the steel tracks. The KV-2 in 1/6 scale is huge. You could easily build it to the 36" rule and have plenty of room in it.
Derek
Khr_1991
Oct 8, 2015, 9:57:43 PM10/8/15
to R/C Tank Combat
Did you scale the tank to the paintball gun barrel? Can I see some pictures of this, I am thinking the German Captured KV-2 will be the first tank to build, just to get everything down and allow for extra room in the turret.
What track system would look good on the KV? Would a treadmill track system work for this? I want it "saggy" like the actual tank had.
I do know the Pershing will have a hinged track system, and the Vertical Volute Spring Suspension. I'm not sure if this exact prototype of the tank is allowed, they were made, but never fielded. The turret became the Sherman 76mm turret. I know there is a rule about it, but this isn't too far out there, and 250 were made. I think it's close enough to the actual Pershing that it should count, right?
Where should I look for scooter motors? Just a quick google search came up with a place called "electricscooterparts.com" Has anyone bought from there? They have a 400w 24v motor for $80 It says the shaft spins CCW, would reversing the polarity to reverse the motor damage a motor like this where it's specified, or should I look for something that says it is reversible. There is also a 350w with a gear reduction to 400rpm output that says it is reversible by switching polarity
It seems everyone is using a Tri-Pact speed controller. Is that a simple on/off controller, no variable speeds?
What track system would look good on the KV? Would a treadmill track system work for this? I want it "saggy" like the actual tank had.
I do know the Pershing will have a hinged track system, and the Vertical Volute Spring Suspension. I'm not sure if this exact prototype of the tank is allowed, they were made, but never fielded. The turret became the Sherman 76mm turret. I know there is a rule about it, but this isn't too far out there, and 250 were made. I think it's close enough to the actual Pershing that it should count, right?
Where should I look for scooter motors? Just a quick google search came up with a place called "electricscooterparts.com" Has anyone bought from there? They have a 400w 24v motor for $80 It says the shaft spins CCW, would reversing the polarity to reverse the motor damage a motor like this where it's specified, or should I look for something that says it is reversible. There is also a 350w with a gear reduction to 400rpm output that says it is reversible by switching polarity
It seems everyone is using a Tri-Pact speed controller. Is that a simple on/off controller, no variable speeds?
Derek Engelhaupt
Oct 9, 2015, 2:12:35 AM10/9/15
to rctank...@googlegroups.com
My KV-2 I use a PVC barrel shroud although it doesn't look like I have pics of that on my computer. I can probably take some of it though.
I use the 450W version of these (model MY1016Z3):
No gear reduction necessary. The final output drive of my tank is a 9 tooth to 9 tooth. Speed of the motor is around 400RPM. Plenty fast.
Khr_1991
Oct 12, 2015, 10:30:54 PM10/12/15
to R/C Tank Combat
After a little planning and talking with my dad, He would like to build a Tiger. I'd like a KV-2, so maybe a capture isn't necessary.
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-450-watt-gear-reduction-motor-9-tooth-8mm-05t-chain-sprocket-1018.html
I'm thinking that would be the motor we would get. 450 watt, 420 RPM, and lead polarity swappable for reverse, so it won't stress it.
I'd like to make it belt drive to the final drive though, in case something binds it would slip there before it starts breaking things.
I guess our next step is to decide if we are building 1 or 2, and what we are building.Then getting some dimensions and plans laid out, and go from there.
I might be getting a better job soon, had to take an aptitude test. double the wages I'm making now, so hopefully I get it to support building one of these bad boys.
Does anyone have a good design on the gun elevation and firing, and what paintball marker they use? I want to use one of the standard .68 cal so I can go to a local store and pick the paintballs up. Could I get some pictures or a link to some of these tanks?
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-450-watt-gear-reduction-motor-9-tooth-8mm-05t-chain-sprocket-1018.html
I'm thinking that would be the motor we would get. 450 watt, 420 RPM, and lead polarity swappable for reverse, so it won't stress it.
I'd like to make it belt drive to the final drive though, in case something binds it would slip there before it starts breaking things.
I guess our next step is to decide if we are building 1 or 2, and what we are building.Then getting some dimensions and plans laid out, and go from there.
I might be getting a better job soon, had to take an aptitude test. double the wages I'm making now, so hopefully I get it to support building one of these bad boys.
Does anyone have a good design on the gun elevation and firing, and what paintball marker they use? I want to use one of the standard .68 cal so I can go to a local store and pick the paintballs up. Could I get some pictures or a link to some of these tanks?
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