tanaka fenders

[Seth Vidal]

Has anyone here installed these on a riv?

http://store.somafab.com/taaltrfe.html

I'm thinking of a set for the hilsen over some jack brown tires. I'm kinda curious how much of a pain they are to install.

Thanks,

-sv

[PATRICK MOORE]

And they come in a moderate 559 size -- great! and the price is not bad.

I'll be curious to learn of anyone's experience about the quality and fit. 

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[franklyn]

Though I haven't installed a pair on a Riv, I have installed two pairs, one on a Raleigh One-Way and the other on my repainted 80's Specialized Sequoia. Pictures are here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/franklyn/sets/72157632662017902/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/franklyn/sets/72157622864069891/

They are as much or as little pain as installing Honjo, VO, and Berthoud metal fenders. For both bikes I used 700x45mm alloy fenders, and the front one is significantly shorter than its Honjo and VO counterparts. You can get them at a price cheaper than SKS chromoplastic fenders from Tree Fort Bikes or Outside Outfitters. (I got mine for under $40 before shipping).

best,
Franklyn
Berkeley, CA

[Seth Vidal]

On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 11:34 AM, franklyn <sin...@msn.com> wrote:

Though I haven't installed a pair on a Riv, I have installed two pairs, one on a Raleigh One-Way and the other on my repainted 80's Specialized Sequoia. Pictures are here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/franklyn/sets/72157632662017902/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/franklyn/sets/72157622864069891/

They are as much or as little pain as installing Honjo, VO, and Berthoud metal fenders. For both bikes I used 700x45mm alloy fenders, and the front one is significantly shorter than its Honjo and VO counterparts. You can get them at a price cheaper than SKS chromoplastic fenders from Tree Fort Bikes or Outside Outfitters. (I got mine for under $40 before shipping).

So you would definitely recommend a mudflap on the front one, I assume.

I'm debating between these and just going with another set of longboards.

any thoughts?

-sv

 

[PATRICK MOORE]

Great, thanks. They are shorter, but not as short as many plastic fenders, and I always install mudflaps. 

How does the quality -- gauge of the metal, design and quality of the fittings -- compare with Honjos or Berthouds? (VO's, at least the pair I bought 3 years or so ago, is not as good, but for the price acceptable.)

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I'm with Franklyn regarding the Tanaka fenders. I've got a 26"x60mm set on my Atlantis and it took an hour or two to install, after I gathered all the necessary hardware and tools (spacers, drill, etc). It's not hard work, but one needs to be patient and knowing the tricks of installing metal fenders help. It is worth repeating that unlike plastic fenders, metal fenders should be installed without built-in stress.

As for your questions, the gauge of the Tanaka fenders are similarly lithe like the Honjos. The finish on the fenders isn't bad at all and are mostly indistinguishable from the Honjos (or at least I couldn't see significant differences). The design and quality of the fittings, however, are noticeably worse than those from Honjo and Bethouds (I don't have experience with VO fenders). Unlike the Honjo, the Tanaka stays are dull and stain easily. The Tanaka daruma bolts, although stainless, also aren't in the same league as the Honjos; it's like cast+plated vs. stamped parts, if that can be an analogy.

Actually, I don't mind the length of the Tanaka fenders. Yes, they're shorter than Honjos, so fender flaps are mandatory. But they're short enough such that I can actually put the bike on "Euro style" workstands because the front flap can bend easily. With Honjos, I have to use a standard Park workstand. Although standard Park workstands are fine, I prefer the "Euro style" workstands as they're more stable. Same thing with roof racks. Fork-clamp racks become an option if you don't have long front fenders getting in the way.

Finally, they're nice enough and cheap enough that I'll be getting another set for my LHT. I think that's probably the best endorsement - a repeat customer.

[Michael Hechmer]

pardon my ignorance.  What's a Euro Style workstand?

Michael

[Ron Mc]

I installed Honjos last month, and the real trick to these is the lateral position of the stay in the fender rod bolt.  The front is usually symmetric, but it depends on the alignment of the fork hole where the daruma rod bolt is attached.  The rear is probably not symmetric, due to different spread in the rear triangles.  It takes a few cycles of installing the wheel and adjusting the stay position in the rod bolt, before final tightening, to get it perfect.  

[Steve Palincsar]

That sounds a lot like you're pulling the fender into position with the
stay. If so, know that in time that will result in the fender's
cracking from the stress.

[Ron Mc]

no, there is no load on the fender - that is the point of aligning the stay in the rod bolt - not where it looks it ought to be, but where it relaxes the fender.  

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

An example of a Euro-style workstand is the Park PRS-20. You have to take off a wheel and the workstand will clamp on the dropout ad support the BB shell.

http://www.parktool.com/product/team-race-stand-prs-20

Compare this to the more normal Park workstand, where clamping is at the seatpost or either the top tube or seat tube. I don't like clamping on the frame and I don't have enough seatpost exposed (a "fistful of seatpost") so I have to use a long sacrificial seatpost which is more work than removing a wheel.

http://www.parktool.com/product/deluxe-home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs-4-1