Sayonara Japan: A Farewell Tour

[John Rinker]

Sadly my time in Japan has come to an end. A brief stay filled with beautiful rides to spectacular places.

One final ride: Shikoku. An island of steep mountains, thick forests and clear rivers. Also, the Henro- a 1200 km pilgrimage to visit 88 temples. Walking, prayer and incense.

First, the Shimanami Kaido. Six islands, seven bridges to cross the Seto Inland Sea. A world-class bicycle path and tales of old-world pirates.

On Shikoku, alone in the mountains, swerving to avoid 30cm iridescent blue earthworms. Hydrangeas exploding on the slopes and by the sea.

In a remote blacksmith's forge, I learned about traditional Japanese steel (tamahagane), sword making and polishing, and made a kiritsuke knife. All on a day when all the rain in Japan dropped on our tin roof.

In the following days the rivers were full but clear, and my days were spent climbing and swimming in some of the clearest water I've seen. The mountains were cool but the air was thick; not all the water was in the rivers.

Japan is well-known for its tunnels and one 5.5 km tunnel running at a 5% slope had me whizzing under Mt. Kanpuzan at 60km/h without a single car in sight. 

The mountains gave way to coastline and a few hours later I was back on the Shimanami in sweltering heat as I made my way slowly towards the cool, high-speed Shinkansen that would bring me home to my bags packed and ready for my trip home to BC.

Japan is a dream. Get there!

GaiaGPS tracks and photos

[Steven Sweedler]

John, I’ve enjoyed your trip reports and your pictures, Thanks, Steve

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Steven Sweedler
Plymouth, New Hampshire

[John Rinker]

Thank you, Steven, very kind of you to say so. 

John

[Rusty Click]

I too, will miss your ride reports and great pictures!

Rusty

[Evan E.]

Wow. Beautiful photos! John, how long were you in Japan? (Sorry if you already explained but I missed your explanation.) And if you were to return to Japan for, say, one week and you could take just one ride or one loop that you have taken before, which would it be? Shikoku proper? Or Shimanami Kaido? Or? 

Evan 

[John Rinker]

Thank you, Evan. 

I lived and worked in Japan 2 short years. If I were to return, I'd definitely try to get up to Hokkaido near the Shiretoku Park (northeastern corner) because I was unable to get there during my time. I've heard many times that to enjoy Hokkaido properly by bicycle you'd need a month, at least, But, if someone who hadn't been to Japan were to get for a week of cycling (and they were as enamoured with rivers and mountains as I am) you'd want to head to Yakushima Island just south of Kagoshima. I rode there twice, and somewhere in these threads is a trip report from each time. A magical place, for sure!

For every beautiful place I was fortunate enough to ride, there are at least 10 more that I'd like to.

Cheers,

John

[Bones]

Fantastic pictures as always John. Japan looks like a beautiful place. I can’t wait to see where your path takes you next!

Bones

[Takashi]

So sad that I didn't have chance to meet you John.

I hope to have a ride together next time you come to Japan.

Oh, and thank you for another great ride report and photos!

I've visited Shikoku once, and I agree about thickness of the air there.

Takashi

[John Rinker]

Thank you, Bones. My path brings me home to beautiful British Columbia where plenty of adventure awaits!

[John Rinker]

Yes, Takashi, it would have been wonderful to ride together- two Hunqs cruising the Kiso Mountains. Perhaps another time!

Cheers,

John

[ribz]

absolutely beautiful! glad you got to experience shikoku because most people never make it past the usual tokyo>kyoto>osaka destinations (which are the coolest cities on the planet btw, no exaggeration). 

[John Rinker]

Thanks, ribs! Totally agree on your Tokyo-Kyoto evaluation. Perhaps there's irony in the fact that I never made it to Osaka- I know I missed something special there- but it was always the mountains and forests that demanded my free time. 

Cheers,

John

[Alex K]

Inspiring stuff.  I wish there were more posts like this on here.  Those swimming holes!!!!!! 

Thanks for sharing....

A