dynamo light decisions: Lumotec or Edelux?
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Patch T
Jan 26, 2017, 2:22:22 PM1/26/17
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Almost most definitely have narrowed it down to the Busch+Müller Lumotec IQ-X and the Schmidt Edelux II, and now I cannot decide between the two.
I would love to hear from anyone has had experience with both, or anyone who knows enough about both to help way the technical pros and cons.
- they'll run off a SON28 hub
- mounted to a Nitto Mark's rack for now
- mounted to a custom rack and/or a Tubus Tara in the future
- city riding and night time trail riding, the occasional long tour, the frequent s24o...
Thanks, bunch.
Love,
Patch
Philip Kim
Jan 26, 2017, 3:13:28 PM1/26/17
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i've used both. can't go wrong with either i don't think. i prefer the edelux. the IQ-X has a plastic band that wraps around the lamp and secures and fixes it to a rack/wherever. i also prefer the edelux beam, the IQ-X is plenty bright, but the beam is a bit narrow for me.
Shoji Takahashi
Jan 26, 2017, 3:16:39 PM1/26/17
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Hi Patch,
I have IQ-X running off SON28 on my Hunqapillar. It's mounted to my Nitto Mini Front rack and connected to a rear fender-mounted tail light from Velo Lumino.
Thoughts to consider:
If you move to a custom rack in the future, how will you want to mount the light? Edelux II cannot be mounted "upside down"; for that you would need to purchase the hanging version. The IQ-X can be mounted upright or inverted. You have to loosen the mount, but that's straightforward to do.
Will you mount a rear dynamo-powered light? IQ-X has two terminals; I think hanging Edelux II is grounded to the housing; I don't know about regular Edelux II. That might be important for how you would connect rear light.
BTW: for trail riding, I think you'll need a secondary light (e.g., headlamp). The cut-off on IQ-X is terrific for commuting and keeping light out of the eyes of oncoming traffic. However, you probably want light above the cutoff for the trails.
Good luck!
shoji
On Thursday, January 26, 2017 at 2:22:22 PM UTC-5, Patch T wrote:
Eric Norris
Jan 26, 2017, 4:46:04 PM1/26/17
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Patch:
As others have noted, the Edelux (I or II) is a somewhat nicer product in terms of finish (for instance, the Edelux has a glass front, while the IQ-X’s lens is plastic). If you’re into finely polished German tech, you should buy the Edelux II.
OTOH, I have have both lights on different bikes and I prefer the light output of the IQ-X. In my opinion, it is noticeably brighter than the Edelux, and puts usable light much farther in front of the bike. I have mine adjusted to light up the road over 100 feet in front of me. The Edelux II puts out more light than the Edelux I, but really any of these will provide plenty of illumination.
For my money, I prefer the IQ-X. It’s not finely polished, and it has a plastic clamp assembly that the Edelux doesn’t, but it’s less expensive and crazy bright. YMMV.
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Peter White
Jan 26, 2017, 6:52:14 PM1/26/17
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The IQ-X gets to full brightness, 100 lux, at a lower speed than the Edelux II. At high speeds, the Edelux II actually gets a bit brighter than the IQ-X.
The beams are shaped differently. The Edelux II beam, as well as the Busch & Müller CYO Premium and Fly Premium which all use the same reflector, are wider at the top of the beam, and the IQ-X beam is wider close to the bike than the others.
I have the Edelux II on two of my bikes, and the IQ-X on a third. Frankly, the differences in beam shape and brightness are simply too small to get excited about. On a 2 mph steep climb on the dirt roads around here, the IQ-X gives me a better view of the road, along with any snapping turtles lurking in the bushes, waiting to pounce. On a steep descent, the Edelux II is a bit better for seeing a moose cavorting with a squirrel. Overall, it's a wash.
If you commute in all weather, with sanded roads in the winter and cars kicking it up, the glass lens of the Edelux II will hold up better than the plastic lens of the IQ-X. The magnetic reed switch of the Edelux II will probably outlast the switch on the IQ-X. But if you just leave the IQ-X on all the time, as I do, how is the switch going to wear out?
You could decide on the basis of which you like the look of more. Or you could always do the sensible thing and flip a coin.
PJW
Peter White Cycles
On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 4:45 PM, Eric Norris <campyo...@me.com> wrote:
Patch:As others have noted, the Edelux (I or II) is a somewhat nicer product in terms of finish (for instance, the Edelux has a glass front, while the IQ-X’s lens is plastic). If you’re into finely polished German tech, you should buy the Edelux II.OTOH, I have have both lights on different bikes and I prefer the light output of the IQ-X. In my opinion, it is noticeably brighter than the Edelux, and puts usable light much farther in front of the bike. I have mine adjusted to light up the road over 100 feet in front of me. The Edelux II puts out more light than the Edelux I, but really any of these will provide plenty of illumination.
For my money, I prefer the IQ-X. It’s not finely polished, and it has a plastic clamp assembly that the Edelux doesn’t, but it’s less expensive and crazy bright. YMMV.
On Jan 26, 2017, at 11:22 AM, Patch T <ptro...@gmail.com> wrote:
Almost most definitely have narrowed it down to the Busch+Müller Lumotec IQ-X and the Schmidt Edelux II, and now I cannot decide between the two.
I would love to hear from anyone has had experience with both, or anyone who knows enough about both to help way the technical pros and cons.- they'll run off a SON28 hub- mounted to a Nitto Mark's rack for now- mounted to a custom rack and/or a Tubus Tara in the future- city riding and night time trail riding, the occasional long tour, the frequent s24o...Thanks, bunch.Love,Patch--
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Peter White
Jack
Jan 26, 2017, 6:57:56 PM1/26/17
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I have the IQ-X and the Edelux II. Both are good lights, but I like the beam of the IQ-X a little better. The difference isn't huge, but it's there. The Edelux II probably has a better quality build, but the there's nothing wrong with the IQ-X. And the IQ-X costs a bit less. But as the others have pointed out, you can't go wrong with either.
On Thursday, January 26, 2017 at 2:22:22 PM UTC-5, Patch T wrote:
bo richardson
Jan 26, 2017, 8:58:42 PM1/26/17
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two iqx on a marks rack on a rambouillet is a really good solution
so happy...
so happy...
drew
Jan 26, 2017, 9:57:11 PM1/26/17
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I have the edelux and love it. Perfect in all ways but price.
Not to derail, but I just bought the bm eyc for a more budget conscious build (hasn't arrived yet)and will be connecting to a sp-pv8. Anyone know what connector I'll need? This was really easy with the edelux, but the bm wire interface looks different in pics than the edelux or sp plug.
Ian A
Jan 26, 2017, 10:55:38 PM1/26/17
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Could you elaborate, please Bo? Are you running two IQ-X side by side? Switching one off at low speed?
IanA
panog
Jan 27, 2017, 2:27:21 AM1/27/17
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I have been buying the Edelux II for my dynamo hub wheels for three reasons:
A) never had a problem with them, B) aesthetics and C) I've been told from several people that the IQ-X tens to flicker at low speeds. I have not used it myself so cant verify the claim
A) never had a problem with them, B) aesthetics and C) I've been told from several people that the IQ-X tens to flicker at low speeds. I have not used it myself so cant verify the claim
Peter White
Jan 27, 2017, 6:20:37 AM1/27/17
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All dynamo powered LED headlights flicker at low speeds. It's more noticeable with the IQ-X because it's flickering more brightly than other headlights at those low speeds.
PJW
Peter White Cycles
On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 7:57 PM, panog <panogia...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have been buying the Edelux II for my dynamo hub wheels for three reasons:
A) never had a problem with them, B) aesthetics and C) I've been told from several people that the IQ-X tens to flicker at low speeds. I have not used it myself so cant verify the claim
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Peter White
Stephen Kemp
Jan 27, 2017, 7:12:01 AM1/27/17
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Just to pick up on Peter's point on flicker, low speed means walking pace. This means flicker is not apparent in most riding scenarios.
On Friday, January 27, 2017 at 11:20:37 AM UTC, Peter White wrote:
All dynamo powered LED headlights flicker at low speeds. It's more noticeable with the IQ-X because it's flickering more brightly than other headlights at those low speeds.PJWPeter White Cycles
On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 7:57 PM, panog <panogia...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have been buying the Edelux II for my dynamo hub wheels for three reasons:
A) never had a problem with them, B) aesthetics and C) I've been told from several people that the IQ-X tens to flicker at low speeds. I have not used it myself so cant verify the claim
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Jim Bronson
Jan 27, 2017, 11:03:13 AM1/27/17
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The SP hubs use the Shimano style connectors.
On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 8:57 PM, drew <drewbe...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have the edelux and love it. Perfect in all ways but price.
Not to derail, but I just bought the bm eyc for a more budget conscious build (hasn't arrived yet)and will be connecting to a sp-pv8. Anyone know what connector I'll need? This was really easy with the edelux, but the bm wire interface looks different in pics than the edelux or sp plug.
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Patch T
Jan 27, 2017, 12:47:27 PM1/27/17
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Thanks everyone.
PJW, I appreciate your point about choosing based off aesthetic at this point. That's pretty much what I came to after researching on your webpage.
Trouble is, I like the look of both! A coin toss it is then ....
Love
Patch
Eric Norris
Jan 27, 2017, 12:58:11 PM1/27/17
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I much prefer the Shimano-style connectors. Easier to set up, easier on and off the hub. Try fiddling with the spade connectors in the dark near the end of a 600k brevet and you’ll know what I mean.
Schmidt’s spade connectors, by comparison, look like almost Victorian.
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Peter White
Jan 27, 2017, 1:18:07 PM1/27/17
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We now have a good solution for this. Schmidt is making, and I'm stocking, co-axial connectors. You place them in line a few inches from the hub. Then the spade connectors stay on the hub, and you connect and disconnect the wires using the co-axial connector. One connector for both conductors. If you are also using a charger, you also have the co-axial connectors on the charger's wiring. So you leave the piggyback connectors on the hub. And of course it makes no difference which wires off the hub go to the headlight and which to the charger, as it's just a parallel connection.
PJW
Peter White Cycles
Peter White
Mojo
Jan 28, 2017, 12:13:33 AM1/28/17
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Peter, could you direct me to the co-axial connectors on your website? I can't seem to find them.
Joe in GJT
Peter White
Jan 29, 2017, 2:48:38 PM1/29/17
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Not on the website yet.
Here's a couple of pictures. One shows the connectors connected, the other, disconnected. The bike is my Rambouillet. Dynamo hub is a SONdelux Wide Body.
We have the connectors individually so you can solder them onto co-axial wiring wherever you like. We also can add them to the wiring on your headlight. And we are stocking the Edelux II with these connectors already installed.
On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 12:13 AM, 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
Peter, could you direct me to the co-axial connectors on your website? I can't seem to find them.
Joe in GJT
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Justin August
Jan 29, 2017, 4:22:07 PM1/29/17
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I just saw this setup on a buddy's bike today. It's slick and quite attractive. Not quite as easy as the magnetic attachments but very classy.
-Justin
Belopsky
Jan 29, 2017, 8:27:02 PM1/29/17
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The shimano style are so easy that i often forget to unplug when pulling the wheel off my GB and it easily comes off. have not ripped anything yet.
On Friday, January 27, 2017 at 12:58:11 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
I much prefer the Shimano-style connectors. Easier to set up, easier on and off the hub. Try fiddling with the spade connectors in the dark near the end of a 600k brevet and you’ll know what I mean.
Schmidt’s spade connectors, by comparison, look like almost Victorian.
On Jan 27, 2017, at 8:02 AM, Jim Bronson <jim.b...@gmail.com> wrote:
The SP hubs use the Shimano style connectors.
On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 8:57 PM, drew <drewbe...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have the edelux and love it. Perfect in all ways but price.
Not to derail, but I just bought the bm eyc for a more budget conscious build (hasn't arrived yet)and will be connecting to a sp-pv8. Anyone know what connector I'll need? This was really easy with the edelux, but the bm wire interface looks different in pics than the edelux or sp plug.
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Mike Schiller
Jan 31, 2017, 11:42:46 PM1/31/17
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why not something like this?
~mike
Carlsbad Ca
Eric Norris
Feb 1, 2017, 8:46:41 AM2/1/17
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Doesn't look waterproof.
–Eric N
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Anton Tutter
Feb 2, 2017, 11:43:42 AM2/2/17
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Peter,
Is the plug completely waterproof? From your photos, it appears the female portion is facing up, and vulnerable to water pooling inside.
I do like the compact appearance of the coaxial connector, but until it's proven, I prefer using my spade-to-banana plug adapter. The plugs are gold plated, and the female half is oriented downward, so no water pools. I haven't had a single report of a banana plug failure in two years of using them.
Anton
On Sunday, January 29, 2017 at 2:48:38 PM UTC-5, Peter White wrote:
Not on the website yet.Here's a couple of pictures. One shows the connectors connected, the other, disconnected. The bike is my Rambouillet. Dynamo hub is a SONdelux Wide Body.We have the connectors individually so you can solder them onto co-axial wiring wherever you like. We also can add them to the wiring on your headlight. And we are stocking the Edelux II with these connectors already installed.
On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 12:13 AM, 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
Peter, could you direct me to the co-axial connectors on your website? I can't seem to find them.
Joe in GJT
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Anton Tutter
Feb 2, 2017, 11:46:46 AM2/2/17
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Forgot to mention, these aren't on my website yet, either, but I'll be selling these very shortly. This is what you will get. The male halves do require soldering, they are not crimpable.
Peter White
Feb 2, 2017, 1:12:44 PM2/2/17
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Anton,
That looks like a very nice solution. I like it. The only issue I would have is that you're still putting your fingers into a tight space to make the connections, though not nearly as tight as when putting the 4.8mm female connectors on the male connectors embedded in the axle. So definitely a big improvement.
Regarding the orientation of the Schmidt co-axial connectors, your concern was also my concern. When I asked Wilfried Schmidt about it he said he had been testing it and found it to be no problem. There's a black insulator at about the middle of the male component which forms a seal when the two parts are connected. While I've been riding with it this winter, I haven't been out in the rain; only in snow and ice which obviously is no problem here. But Wilfried is pretty thorough. And anyone could have the connectors installed in reverse if he wished. But Schmidt does supply me with the short section to the hub already finished with female 4.8 and female co-axial connectors installed. Then we just add the single male connector on the headlight end here at the shop. Saves a bit of money that way.
Have you considered basing your connectors on the Supernova connectors? They are designed for crimping.
PJW
Peter White Cycles
On Thu, Feb 2, 2017 at 11:46 AM, Anton Tutter <atu...@gmail.com> wrote:
Forgot to mention, these aren't on my website yet, either, but I'll be selling these very shortly. This is what you will get. The male halves do require soldering, they are not crimpable.
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