Differences between Tektro R337, R338, and R339?

[Patrick Moore]

Those on the Roadeo are R338s and provide only grade C braking; they seem no longer to be sold, as with the, I suppose, even earlier R337s that I’ve read about, both replaced with the current R339.

Can anyone tell me what the differences are, besides — again, I suppose — being serial replacements for the older model?

If anyone has a pair of 57 mm reach Superbe Pros or Royal Grande Comps or Shimano 600s in good nick with all the hardware, and cares to trade for a VG pair of R38s, or wishes to sell his pair at a reasonable price, please look me up.

If anyone has a pair of forged single pivot calipers, 57 mm reach, in BLACK, I am particularly interested. 

For that matter, if someone wants to sell or trade a pair of black VO dual pivots (again, in black), at some sort of discount over the retail price, with cash or goods to make things nice, please inquire within.

Frankly, the R338s with salmon pads don’t seem to stop or modulate any better than good forged single pivots with ditto, and I like the look of the SPs better.

Patrick Moore, who was very disappointed to find that the as-new pair of first-gen Dura Ace calipers he bought weren’t after all 57 mm reach.

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Patrick Moore

Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[Ryan Fleming]

Those black VO Grand Cru brakes would be the ones to go for...that's for sure. Great brakes especially with the TRP levers...but I know you like the brifter shifting , if not the hand comfort. Does your  Roadeo have downtube shifter bosses, out of idle curiosity?

I did have Campy SR brakes/levers on my Road, and classic as they are I found the VO brakes with the TRP levers a vast improvement

[Patrick Moore]

Alas, no dt shifter bosses, just cable housing stops. But I’d probably use Suntour bar cons if I switched away from the brifters.

Yes, I have my eye on the VO calipers, but the Paul-level price makes me hesitate until I decide whether or not I want to go full friction. And then there’s the matter that my left palm does not play nicely with the brifter shape.

I searched my soul and came up with the answer: Just ride the g** d*** bike. We’ve got a group ride coming up next weekend, and God willing I’ll ride the Roadeo.

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[JohnS]

Hello Patrick,

I have both the 538 and 539 and the only difference I can see is the reach of the 539 is slightly more than the 538, I guess 1cm?

I also have a pair of the VO Grand Cruz in black that I would be willing to sell. They don't look quite right on my black Crust Malocchio, too much black, so I purchased silver ones which I need to install. The only thing  with the black pair is that the previous owner tried to service them but didn't know about the grub screws, so one of the treads got a little chewed up in the process. I was able to remove the grub screws, clean the bearings the pivots ride on (same bearings as the old XTR v-brakes). I was able to clean up the treads with a tap and used a longer bolt with an aircraft lock nut to hold it all together. Works fine, no issues at all and the lock nut isn't really noticeable. I can send pics later. I'm thinking $100 plus shipping from 18104.

Regards,

Jojhn

[Patrick Moore]

John: Thanks, I’m interested;.  If the calipers are visually uncompromised and if everything works properly, I’d like to see photos.

Will you please clarify the threading issue with the grub screw/screws?

Thanks, Patrick

[JohnS]

1st the pics...

[JohnS]

Front brake...

[JohnS]

As I mentioned in my first email, they have the same bearing as the XTR v-brake, which gives it that great feel. The only down side is that the bearings can get gummed up which results in the brakes sticking, hence the need to take them apart and clean them. The grub/set screws are there to keep the bolts from backing out by being turned down against the bolt's threads. Most of them are on the underside so that you don't see them, but you can see the top of one of them on the arm that the cable comes into, to the right of the "U" in Cru, in the 2nd picture of the rear brake. Also in that picture, you can see how I drilled through the brake arm so that the M6 bolt could continue through the arm where the aircraft lock nut is. Very secure and is not coming loose. The previous owner apparently didn't know about the grub screws and tried to take the brakes apart without removing them. He did this to one of the bolts, realized he screwed up the threads and decided to sell them on e-bay. I was able to remove the grub screws, disassemble the brakes, drill through the brake arm and then use the appropriate tap to clean up the treads.

I've been riding the bike with this brake set since last July and had no issue. They really are a great brake, no flex, solid braking feel. If you not happy with them, I'll buy them back from you.

Let me know if you have any other questions,

John