New Clem L

[Joe Bernard]

Got it yesterday, did a few miles shakedown/adjust-stuff ride today. To steal Velouria's blog name, what a lovely bike! It has the magical smooth-but-maneuverable Riv ride, and boy is that low toptube nice at when hopping on and off. After years of enjoying the low stepover of folding bikes, I find the high tube on "regular" bikes a mostly unnecessary obstacle, so this is wonderful (bonus: no bars crashing into tubes!).

Details: Those Boscos reach WAY back; I'll be lopping an inch off before the next ride.

The SunRace shifters are reversed 9-speed click/friction, and only the right friction-only shifter has any kind of ratchet effect when pushing to lower/easier cogs. The original ratchety shifters on the first Clem run had a lot of clicks on both sides, both directions, and I found them hard to operate on the demo Clem H I ride last year. To help explain what's new: if you mounted these normally, they're the same as Shimano bar-ends with pure friction front, index or pure friction rear. As installed they both work great in friction mode.

The gearing is perfect with 38-24 chainrings and pie plate 9-speed cassette. Grant's right, it's hard to imagine why you would need a big ring up front.

Although the ride is similar - maybe a little more relaxed/cushy - to the Appaloosa I sold, the vibe is VERY different. With the sit-up riding position, mixte frame, and certainly with the green paint on this one, there's very much a "Raleigh 3-speed" thing going on which I get a kick out of. I rode in my standard costume of MUSA shorts, Pletscher T-shirt and Riv fake-leather gloves..all good..but this is the first time my swoopy Specialized helmet and Oakley M Frames felt completely ridiculous on a bicycle. I think I need a beret!

I love the heart seatlug, which only works on mixte frames. It sits high, proud and pretty, and leaves the impression (in my mind) of someone creating a lug, then designing a bicycle around it. Here's some pics I took today and yep...I forgot to do a lug closeup. Doh!

https://goo.gl/photos/P4TKso4xaSWNDA6Y9

[Jay Connolly]

Great looking bike. I had decided to get one of the 64 Ls when they come in, but I now I've let the idea go. I've got all the racks and things I need to press my Joe into hauling and commuting service. Maybe a Clem when my ship comes in. Enjoy yours. It looks just fabulous.

Jay

[Chris Birkenmaier]

Very nice Joe! Enjoy your new ride

[wesleya]

Nice ride! If you don't mind me asking, how tall are you? Also, that's the 52, right?

[Joe Bernard]

It's a 52 (sorry, I thought I mentioned that). I'm 5'-7", pbh roundabout (I don't think my measurement is super accurate) 790. The seatpost showing here is with Silver 173mm cranks..would be higher with my normal 170s. The virtual toptube is about 60cm and it's STILL too short with those crazy Boscos. I'm shortening the bars tonight.

[Evan E.]

Beautiful bike, Joe! Love the color. 

[Joe Bernard]

Thanks, Evan! Yeah, I fell in love with that color (someone here called it Acid Green, pretty cool) when it showed up on the Cheviot. I wasn't quite evolved (or rich enough) then for a mixte, so I jumped this time. It's hard to express how elegant the bike is in person, especially fendered and racked. I love it.

[Joe Bernard]

Btw, "elegant" is kinda funny. The Clem project started as a 'Riv beater bike' from the youngsters there that was supposed to be flat black so it looked rattle-canned. Oops!

[RichS]

Joe, congratulations! Great looking ride. The Clems are such nice riders.

Enjoy!

Richard

[Davey Two Shoes]

Why did they do away with the swoopy seat stays? Thats one of my favorite things about the Clem!

Still great looking bike

[Mark in Beacon]

I remember reading something about it being necessary due to the wrong seat tube size got spec'd, but that may be wrong. (The seat tube on the originals is way oversized, not so on later models.) In any case, the swoopy stays were a workaround of some sort, as noted in the blug:

The slightly curved seat stays allowed us to use the special lug AND lengthen the chainstays. The curve does NOT add flex or suspension, and it’s not for looks. heavens. It was a workaround, and detracts nothing, and…let us not harp on it!

http://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/112641497369/prematurely-but-out-of-necessity-introducing-clem

[Bill M.]

"The swoopy seat stays allowed us to use the seat lug we wanted and get long chainstay. "

The seat lug came before the chainstay length, the curved stays were the workaround to put the two together.

Bill

Stockton, CA

whose green Clem H has curved seatstays

[Patrick Moore]

Pretty bike, and wonderfully clear photos -- I'll bet you didn't use your iPhone?

What is your cassette?

And question about that swept-back Bosco: that stem looks like a 10 (I ride 8s on my Riv Roads, and a 9 -- may go to a 10 -- on my Matthews -- but long -- 125 mm -- reach Maes Parallels; and Dahon: 2" clamp extender and original M bar). I'm not well informed about swept back bars.

Would a, say, North Road bar on a, say, 6 cm stem make that bike handle the same as with the stem and Bosco, as in the photos? Or is there a reason for jutting forward on the stem while sweeping backward on the bar?

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[Joe Bernard]

Patrick:

1. Google Pixel, which is known for having a killer camera.

2. Cassette is 11-34 (could be 12) 9-speed.

3. Stem length is 13cm. I wouldn't go much shorter for a North Road or Albatross, maybe 10 or 11 cm.

4. The theory (which I've tested) for Bosco is you get a sit-bolt-upright position on the ends, a "hoods" grip at the top where it starts to curve down, and "aero" by grabbing the flats flanking the stem. It works, but even with the crazy-long virtual toptube of this frame I still needed to lop off the ends about an inch. It was a smidge too bolt-upright for me.

[Ash [who works to bike]]

It is a beautiful and practical bike!

congrats Joe

I dig that color!

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, Joe -- enlightening answers all.

P

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[Ann L]

That's a really beautiful bike.  I loved that green since they first used it on Cheviot.

[Joe Bernard]

Hi Ann, yes, it's really pretty isn't it? I remember staring at a 60cm Cheviot in that color at RBW a year ago, and when the Clem L came out with it I jumped.

[REC]

It's a beauty.  I'm glad you're just as happy with this as you were with the appaloosa. 

On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 6:21:31 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:

[Mark in Beacon]

As a fellow Clem L, aka Clementine, owner, I'm green with envy on that color. The bike looks gorgeous. In my mind, it's almost impossible not to like the ride of a Clem with Boscos. The Clem L is not a mixte, however, it's a step-through--which only makes it that much more manly a choice, especially if you get that beret. Many happy miles!

On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 6:21:31 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:

[Belopsky]

That he then sold :)

Looks nice! 

[Mark in Beacon]

Well if that's not the pot calling the kettle black... :)

[Joe Bernard]

Ah, my bad, I always get confused between mixte and step-through. I've spent much time on folders and recumbents, and they all have low frames with no reference name other than "that's the frame." At any rate my step-through looks like a Dutch Bike to me so there it is, it's a Rivendell Dutch Bike! :-)

[Ann L]

Real men ride mixtes ;)

[mlpessar]

Sweet bike Joe. I too love the color. A step-through is making more and more sense. I can definitely see a Clem L in my future. Wishing you many happy rides.

[Tony DeFilippo]

Congrats on the great looking bike. I love that green. I was shocked at how rideable my wife's 52 Clementine is for me at 6'... I've got a set of Schwable G-one tires coming that I can't wait to try on that frame.

[Tony DeFilippo]

[Joe Bernard]

I'd like to know how mixte/step-through ever developed a reputation as "lady bikes" in this country. There's no logical reason for it, and the rest of the world doesn't seem to care where the toptube goes as long as it works. The big triangle of H-frames is necessary for super-stiff race frames, but most of us don't need and don't use that feature. As I've said, after many years of riding folders and 'bents with low-stepover frames, I find high toptubes to be useful mostly for crashing my handlebars into. Over it!

[Mark in Beacon]

I totally dig my mixte and my Clem L. But for a bicycle with drop bars, I must have a traditional diamond frame--preferably non-sloping. I just do not like the look of mixtes with drop bars, and I have the urge to convert every one I see to some version of an upright bar. Step through with drops? Just, no. Don't ask me for any logic regarding these dictates, it's just some weird atavistic hangup.

[Chris Birkenmaier]

I agree with you Mark. That combo just doesn't do it for me in the looks department

[Patrick Moore]

Joe: When the end of your drop bar aligns perfectly with your top tube, you do 2 things:

1. Install Velox bar end plugs, if you are not using bar end shifters.

2. If you are using bar end shifters, wind a big wad of left over handlbar tape on the top tube at the point of meeting. Bam! No damage!

Patrick "did that on my Fargo" Moore

On Monday, August 14, 2017 at 1:16:33 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I'd like to know how mixte/step-through ever developed a reputation as "lady bikes" in this country. There's no logical reason for it, and the rest of the world doesn't seem to care where the toptube goes as long as it works. The big triangle of H-frames is necessary for super-stiff race frames, but most of us don't need and don't use that feature. As I've said, after many years of riding folders and 'bents with low-stepover frames, I find high toptubes to be useful mostly for crashing my handlebars into. Over it!

 

[Joe Bernard]

Yeah, there's a million old Univega and Nishiki mixtes out there with dropbars and "safety" brake levers. Every one of them needs 3-speed bars immediately!

[Joe Bernard]

Update with new pics, and more ride impressions with the stock drivetrain before I (gasp!) electrify it.

I cut an inch off the bars, swapped in a B17 Select from another bike, and added the SOMA Porteur front rack I got from Ely at RuthWorkssf.com (thanks, Ely!).

As I said before, everything about this bike sells the vibe of an old Raleigh 3-speed, just lighter/faster/better braking better handling. It can get up and go when you jam the pedals, but there's a "what the heck are you doing?" feel to it, like cruising down Hwy 1 through Big Sur in a convertible Mustang and remembering there's no point in rushing.

The 2-chainrings-plus-guard has an odd effect on my shifting technique. Normally with a triple I run up and down the rings as I'm shifting in back, so that the chainline stays relatively straight. For some reason my brain understands this setup as 'big ring for most stuff, granny ring for steep hills'. I ride it as a 1x9 that happens to have a bailout in dire circumstances. Weird!

Another weird thing is the cranks are 173mm and I don't notice it. I always ride 170 and really dislike 175, so I thought sure I would notice a 3mm difference but nope. This bike is set up a certain way, and my body/brain seems to adapt to it without a second thought of the differences from other bikes I've ridden. Interesting!

The one debit I can think of is the stock pseudo-Nitto seatpost. The spec is for 26.8 but I think this post is 26.7..I haven't pulled it to confirm but the same post on my Appaloosa was. It takes some muscle to get it clamped in there, plus there's a good bit of scratching on the sides from up/down. I'm treating it as a seat-height-dialing-in adjuster, and will replace with a 26.8 S83 when Riv has them back in stock. The seattube will get a little deburring session before I install it.

So it's fabulous. I'm almost a little shy about putting the mid-drive on it, but Clem L is so smooth and stable. It's a perfect platform for the distances and speeds I do with ebikes, and the step-through design gives me a liftatube to heft it up stairs. It's gonna be fun!

https://goo.gl/photos/AocvMvSFvs4DqjV58

Joe Bernard
Vallejo CA.

[WETH]

Congrats Joe. The bike looks awesome!

[R Shannon]

Joe, nicely done! It's a beauty. Thanks for the drivetrain description.

Best,
Richard

Sent from my iPhone

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[Ryan Fleming]

Pretty much the same seat lug and fork crown as my (yet unridden - shame on me) custom mixte I got a while back which I hope to get on soon. Which adds to the attraction of the Clem and yet takes nothing away from my custom. Such a nice touch for Rivendell's 1500.00 bike.  Your newest photos are some of the best detail shots I've ever seen

On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 5:21:31 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:

Got it yesterday, did a few miles shakedown/adjust-stuff ride today. To steal Velouria's blog name, what a lovely bike! It has the magical smooth-but-maneuverable Riv ride, and boy is that low toptube nice at when hopping on and off. After years of enjoying the low stepover of folding bikes, I find the high tube on "regular" bikes a mostly unnecessary obstacle, so this is wonderful (bonus: no bars crashing into tubes!).

Details: Those Boscos reach WAY back; I'll be lopping an inch off before the next ride.

The SunRace shifters are reversed 9-speed click/friction, and only the right friction-only shifter has any kind of ratchet effect when pushing to lower/easier cogs. The original ratchety shifters on the first Clem run had a lot of clicks on both sides, both directions, and I found them hard to operate on the demo Clem H I ride last year. To help explain what's new: if you mounted these normally, they're the same as Shimano bar-ends with pure friction front, index or pure friction rear. As installed they both work great in friction mode.

The gearing is perfect with 38-24 chainrings and pie plate 9-speed cassette. Grant's right, it's hard to imagine why you would need a big ring up front.

Although the ride is similar - maybe a little more relaxed/cushy - to the Appaloosa I sold, the vibe is VERY different. With the sit-up riding position, mixte frame, and certainly with the green paint on this one, there's very much a "Raleigh 3-speed" thing going on which I get a kick out of. I rode in my standard costume of MUSA shorts, Pletscher T-shirt and Riv fake-leather gloves..all good..but this is the first time my swoopy Specialized helmet and Oakley M Frames felt completely ridiculous on a bicycle. I think I need a beret!

I love the heart seatlug, which only works on mixte frames. It sits high, proud and pretty, and leaves the impression (in my mind) of someone creating a lug, then designing a bicycle around it. Here's some pics I took today and yep...I forgot to do a lug closeup. Doh!

https://goo.gl/photos/P4TKso4xaSWNDA6Y9

[lum gim fong]

Hi Joe,

How much does your Clem L weigh?

Looking for something lighter than 32lbs. complete for the wife. 

[Joe Bernard]

No idea, but I would guess around 25-27 lbs. without racks. As set up with racks mine is a little heavier, but it's pretty easy to carry the flight of stairs to my apartment by lifting at the curve of the top bar. Lifting up stairs is the only time weight is an equation with this bike; when on the pedals she flies! (if you feel like it)

[Ryan Fleming]

With all due respect I would be very surprised if the Clems weigh 25-27 lbs; I'd be more inclined to guess somewhere north of 30 lbs. I suspect my custom is more than 30...the boxed bike with the uber-Riv protective packaging weighed 35 lbs according to the customs stamp.  But as you said, Joe, you didn't weigh it.And whatever it weighs , it's not a deal-breaker...in my experience Rivs ride light whatever they weigh

Now what interests me is what you said about carrying bikes up and down stairs...because you wouldn't want to leave that pretty Clem locked to a lightpost.

Yeah, I will admit up and down the stairs is a challenge with mine because I like one hand free for balance (been like this for quite a number of years). With my other bikes with diamond frames, the top tube rests on my shoulder so no problemo. 

Maybe you guys and gals have some tips for schlepping step throughs up and down stairs...kinda dumb, I know. But the garage is NOT an option for my Rivendells , and I live in a pretty decent neighborhood  but shit happens as we all know. 

Thanks in advance for any advice in that regard....Ryan

[Joe Bernard]

Toptube on shoulder works for diamond frames, but I find as I've gotten older that hefting it up there can be a chore. With the Clem I bend my knees a little, one hand at curve, one hand on left handgrip, and stand up straight. I find this method a bit easier, but I wouldn't say either is significantly better than the other for normal bike weights. The latter becomes more important to me after I add the electric kit, which pretty much assures I need the "liftatube" feature, something you won't be dealing with.

Thanks for the compliment on my pics!

[Bill Lindsay]

Ryan Fleming mused:

"Maybe you guys and gals have some tips for schlepping step throughs up and down stairs...kinda dumb, I know. But the garage is NOT an option for my Rivendells , and I live in a pretty decent neighborhood  but shit happens as we all know. "

For bikes that lack a diamond frame, or for any reason prevent you from doing a 'top-tube-on-the-shoulder" portage, I've had some success with "saddle-nose-on-the-shoulder".  The balance point is similar.  Some saddle models cause some discomfort, particularly if the bike is more like 40 lbs with bags and such. 

BL in EC

[lum gim fong]

Where is EC?

[Joe Bernard]

I believe he's in El Cerrito.

[Mark in Beacon]

I would agree that 27 pounds for a Clem with a few accoutrements is optimistic. Although some of the tubes on the newer versions is not as oversize, that would have little affect.

I live in a third-floor walkup apartment. When going down the stairs, I carry my Clem L with left hand on the headset area to prevent bar swing, right hand gripping near chainstay. Coming up, left hand the same, right hand on the curve of the step thru tube, aka top tube.

Because of the weight plus the large size (mine is 52), BOBs (Big Ol' Boscos) and lack of top tube, I would be hard pressed to carry this bicycle up and down stairs with one hand, though I could manage it going up if I had to. One handed stair descents with mixtes or step thru frames is always going to be problematic in my experience.

[Eric Floden]

Just a thought...would something like a VO Wheel stabilizer help free up a hand?  

Never used one but am thinking of steering dampers from my motorbike days...

EricF

Rainy Golden Lake Ont

[Joe Bernard]

"With a few accoutrements" is not how I quoted 25-27 lbs. I'm sure my bike is closer to 30 with the racks.

[Ryan Fleming]

I will have to check that out. Also the nose of the saddle idea

I felt a little embarassed about mentioning this, but I thought the group would have some good ideas, and you did! So thanks for that!

[REC]

Hi, Lum.

Weight is an issue for me, because I have to lift a bike high to store it on the bike wall rack (it's the upper most bike) in a long narrow hallway.  I know bike stores think I'm nuts, but I make sure I can lift every bike I consider.  I could not lift the 2016 Clementine; perhaps the 2017s are lighter.  I can lift my Joe A. with rack and bags, but it's not easy, especially when I'm tired from my ride.  I was able to lift a Cheviot and it was a lot lighter than I thought it would be.  I own the Joe.

Probably more subjective than you're looking for, but perhaps this will help a little.  I'm in my late 50's and this is part of my strength training  :)  . 

Hi, Mark in Beacon.

I use a bungee cord to keep my front wheel from flopping around when lifting it.  hook on water bottle cage, thru wheel, back to water bottle cage.

Roberta 

[Ann L]

I weigh 115 lbs.  My 46 cm Appaloosa with bags weighs 32 lbs and I have to carry it up three flights of stairs.  I will usually grab the middle of the top tube with my right hand and carry it low, balancing some of the weight against my hip.  I use my left hand to guide/support the grip on the handlebar.  I'm very intrigued by the Velo wheel stabilizer.  Has anyone used one?  Not having to keep the handlebars from hitting me, the stairs, or the railings would give me additional carrying options.

[Joe Bernard]

I have a Velo Deflopinator (not currently in use, it's around here somewhere). You can set it up with enough tension to keep the wheel from slamming over into your toptube, but its ability to keep a wheel straight while portaging is limited. It helps, but having it tight enough to have the front end hardly move would be too tight for riding.

[Eric Floden]

A velcro pantleg reflector between fromt wheel and front downtube?

On Aug 18, 2017 8:54 PM, "Joe Bernard" <joer...@gmail.com> wrote:

I have a Velo Deflopinator (not currently in use, it's around here somewhere). You can set it up with enough tension to keep the wheel from slamming over into your toptube, but its ability to keep a wheel straight while portaging is limited. It helps, but having it tight enough to have the front end hardly move would be too tight for riding.

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[Joe Bernard]

Huh. I think that'll work!

On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 6:09:57 PM UTC-7, ericf3 wrote:
> A velcro pantleg reflector between fromt wheel and front downtube?
>
>
> On Aug 18, 2017 8:54 PM, "Joe Bernard" <joer...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have a Velo Deflopinator (not currently in use, it's around here somewhere). You can set it up with enough tension to keep the wheel from slamming over into your toptube, but its ability to keep a wheel straight while portaging is limited. It helps, but having it tight enough to have the front end hardly move would be too tight for riding.
>
>
>
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[anniebikes]

Congratulations on owning a Clementine! I have one also. Before you cut the bars, considering living with them a while. At first I found them VERY awkward, and didn't know if I could EVER get used to them, but with time I've found the boscos to be very versatile and once I put my own ergonomic grips on, I ran out of handlebar real estate. They are truly unique handle bars.

[R Shannon]

A John's Irish Strap from Riv works fine. And it has a multitude of uses. As an example, see Grant's latest Blahg.

Best,

Richard

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 18, 2017, at 7:19 PM, 'Ann L' via RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

I weigh 115 lbs.  My 46 cm Appaloosa with bags weighs 32 lbs and I have to carry it up three flights of stairs.  I will usually grab the middle of the top tube with my right hand and carry it low, balancing some of the weight against my hip.  I use my left hand to guide/support the grip on the handlebar.  I'm very intrigued by the Velo wheel stabilizer.  Has anyone used one?  Not having to keep the handlebars from hitting me, the stairs, or the railings would give me additional carrying options.

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[Bill M.]

Joe,

I have a 27.2 seatpost in my Clem, with an aluminum shim.  Works perfectly.  Shims are only a few bucks, if you have a nice standard post around you might go that way. 

Bill

Stockton, CA

[Joe Bernard]

Hi Bill, the new 45/52s have a smaller seattube than the first batch; they use a 26.8 post like the Appaloosa. I'm planning to replace with an S83 - love me some setback and two bolts - but Riv is out of stock at the moment.

[Joe Bernard]

Update on weight (still no actual scale): Yeah, after moving this bike around a bunch today I'd say I was a little optimistic. It feels like 32-33 with rack and fenders..probably around 30 lbs. without (but with a Brooks). If you really wanted to weight-weenie a Clem (silly!) you could use the plastic saddle Riv sells and replace the steel chainrings. You wouldn't, but you could :-)

[Joe Bernard]

Here's a thing I've never seen before. I just pulled the Claris fd and discovered this plastic insert to push the chain. You wear out the plastic instead of the cage? Narrows it down for 9-speed, take it off for 8? Hmm..

[Patrick Moore]

Very odd; I've never seen that before, either. To quiet what might otherwise be loud shifts from badly adjusted derailleur?

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[Joe Bernard]

Clem L goes electric.
"Judas!"
(Grant will get that one)

I did the deed today and it's fabulous. Honestly it's kind of ridiculous how well this Riv model accepts and works with a mid-drive kit; it's smooth and stable enough to handle the extra weight and speed, and it still turns and stops really well (changing my mind about thinking I need discs). The black kit even "hides" well with this color and the battery in the TrunkSack. I know it's not everyone's cup o' joe, but boy did I appreciate the assist in that killer headwind on the way back from Benicia to Vallejo this evening. (Hi to the guy on the root beer Roadeo at Benicia State Park!)

The last pic isn't lit well, but I wanted to show something I'd never thought of until I owned a step-through..check out the water bottle access. I've never been good at grabbing a bottle while pedaling a diamond frame with upright bars (too far away), but this design puts it way up there in front of you. Nice!

I tend to buy and sell bikes without getting too attached to them, but I think I'm going to keep this one. It's beautiful, does the things I need it to do, and it just fits me. Which brings me to a thought about my (now sold to a happy rider) Appaloosa that hadn't really sunk in until today: It was also beautiful and I loved the ride, but there was always a nagging sense that it was meant to be ridden more and harder than I was up to, like buying a Honda Goldwing touring motorcycle and riding it to 7-Eleven. It wasn't really ME, and Clem L is. Which is probably weird, but that's ok! Thanks for humoring me and looking at my new bike.

https://goo.gl/photos/J5Y4fDycfG896hNP9

[Jeremy Till]

That plastic insert is something that they started doing on the higher end 11spd groups and now it looks like it has trickled down to Claris.  Its function is related to the indexing on those higher end road groups.  They actually made the downshift onto the small rings two step: one click shifts the chain but keeps the cage close to/touching the chain to prevent the chain derailing during the shift, and a second click trims the derailleur cage away from the chain once it's settled into gear.  The plastic is there so to keep things quiet during that process.  It's so quiet that I'm sure most guys don't actually realize they need to click twice for the full shift. 

[Joe Bernard]

Wait, you're supposed to shift twice for one chainring??

[WETH]

Joe,
Late to this thread, but allow me to echo others in heaping kudos upon your beautiful bike. I wondered when you would go electric with it.
Enjoy!
Erl

[Fullylugged]

I think the curved stays add so much to the look of the bike too. That's what drew me to this frame (with it's very subtle curve) for a relative with a less-than-Riv budget and who I am helping put together a bike for. This picture is close to what ours will look like (no fenders and racks for starters). As regards Clem L, a local rider ordered one complete from RBW and she loves it afaik. We also have a Glorius that is NEVER taken out for a ride locally, that I can't talk the owner into selling. But I digress.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MsjpHQbR1bQ/WYZjPfJcZNI/AAAAAAAADDA/ks9npDGBJmMDBoB_aqg-iYhE86BRuHzgwCLcBGAs/s1600/NewAlbionStarling2.JPG

[masmojo]

Great looking Clem(entine); I enjoy my Original Orangie, but looking at yours makes me wish I'd waited. I'd gladly sacrifice the curved stays for that wonderful seat cluster lug , normalish sized post & other refinements. It will be interesting to see how this model continues to evolve slowly over time.

[Ash [who works to bike]]

Joe,  this's probably one of the best e-bikes out there!  I'm saying this because I've tried a bunch of them and they are all terrible as a bicycle.  I'm spoilt by the ride quality of my Joe, which the main reason I don't have an e-bike.  

Your add-on kit does not look all that clunky.  I'd have to explore this option.  Could you share some details about this unit?

[Jeremy Till]

On downshifts, yes.  Upshifts are still accomplished with one stroke of the lever.  

I would say that for being indexed (hiss, boo), these Shimano front shifters/derailleurs do work great once properly adjusted (and assuming you're using appropriate chainrings), way better than some other major manufacturers of shifting systems (cough cough SRAM cough), so I'm willing to forgive them the extra step on downshifting.  

Personally, all my bikes with a front derailleur have a friction front shifter.  

[Ryan Fleming]

barely notice the e-drive; it's quite unobtrusive 

[Joe Bernard]

Thanks, Ryan, the stealthiness is accomplished by putting two Mini Cube batteries from lunacycle.com in the TrunkSack. Most of these conversions have an huge battery attached to downtube water bottle bosses, which gives more range but adds weight and HEY I'M AN EBIKE!

Ash, check that site for Bafang BBS02 to learn about mid-drive kits. Settle in and pop something cold, there's a TON of reading to do there :-)

Here's a few 'final build' shots from today's ride (which I'm still in the middle of). I added the basket, a ShopSack, and PDW grips which will eventually darken like the Select saddle. The jury is still out on the Bosco Bars: I feel WAY far away from the front wheel, and I'm getting some sail effect in crosswinds. I'll probably swap my Albas in to see how I like it. Whelp, back to the ride!

https://goo.gl/photos/HqvPx24LBJhmVpjv9

[Joe Bernard]

Ash, I feel ya about ebikes. My first mid-drive was a dedicated ebike from Haibike, which was fun, but once the thrill of assisted pedaling wore off I became acutely aware that I was riding a basic Chinese aluminum hybrid with a boat-anchor suspension fork. Bogus! So I sold that on to the next fellow who wasn't quite ready to cobble together his own build and did this. Rivs are great; eRivs..also great!

[Joe Bernard]

Btw, Ash (and anyone else), if you want to yak more about my electric build, gimme a holler at joeremi 62 at g mail dot com. I could yammer all night about this stuff here, but they'd run me outta Rivtown ;-)

[Ash [who works to bike]]

Thanks Joe!

You will get a flood of emails when I start this project :)

For you it is headwinds and hills.  For me it is 3 dozen  or so stop signs and traffic lights on the way to work (23 miles).  I'm thinking with a motor assist (a) my knees would feel better as I don't need to crank 0 to 12mph 30 times each way (b) I can shave 10-15 mins in each direction (c) I'll be riding safer, as it won't feel like too much effort to make a full stop and then start at stop signs and other risky spots.  With full manual peddling, once I'm a bit tired, not only I feel lazy to make a full, but sometimes I jump red lights when there is no traffic at the intersection.  I'd rather make a full stop than invite dirty stares  or encourage other less responsible riders to start jumping lights

[Joe Bernard]

Ash: Your riding conditions are pretty much why ebikes exist. It's a way to stay on the bike and get some exercise while still showing up for work safely, on time, and not a sweaty mess..it replaces a car. I do it for fun and to get up the monster hills around here, but commuting is really what these things are made for.

[Joe Bernard]

Update: I replaced the stock Kenda Kwick tires (good, solid commuter workhorses, but they're notorious in all wheel sizes for a dead ride) with Fatty Rumpkin Force Fields. What a revelation! Even though they're narrower than the Kwicks, they still deliver a plusher ride while inexplicably also feeling more nimble. And lighter! They definitely feel better with the motor, but I made sure to pedal unassisted, too, so I could compare to when I've ridden the Kendas the same way.

If you own a Clem or any other Riv with Kenda Kwicks, I strongly recommend better tires for your fine bicycle. The difference is noticeable and wonderful.