New vs. Old Parts for Appaloosa

[AppaLanta]

Hi All, I’m seeking some wisdom from the group for the build-up of a new ‘24 Appaloosa this fall (my first Riv)…

I know where I’m going with the choice of most parts (handlebars, seat, pedals, etc.) except I’ve reached a conceptual impasse on a few components, mainly around performance and durability.

[For reference I’ll use the bike for 80% daily loaded commuting, 10% loaded touring, and the balance an occasional trail ride or unloaded Sunday long ride.]

Cranks: what is your experience between say, a 90’s Deore cast crank (i.e. a DX, which I have) versus a forged crank of the same era, versus a current forged crank like the VO grand cru, versus a new Riv Silver? I *think* I feel flex in an older cast crank but never *really* know if it is the frame or not. I’ve never broken a crank arm. Do you notice a difference in flex of the arms or anything else? Is the new tech gear worth the investment for stiffness, and noticeable? I’ll be setting up for a triple, even if I use the outer for a guard.

Rear Derailleur: I love the 90’s DX/LX/XT/XTR stuff because it just works great and looks great, and I “grew up” with it. But RIV offers a straightforward Altus M310 with a big chain wrap for $28. Would you typically search out an old “mega range” and hope it works well with a new big 11-34 cassette or just accept things and buy a newer cheapy knowing that you might need to replace it in a few years? Where are you, who have built up many a Riv, on this spectrum of value and durability, and maybe maintenance too?

Finally, if any of you have a crankset or RD / FD you would like to sell that fits your recommendation and is in great shape please feel free to PM me. 

Thank you for guidance, experience, opinions…

[Josiah Anderson]

Welcome to the group! I think that old parts are totally appropriate on a Riv build, and can work as well as or better than modern ones while often making things more interesting. 

To your specific questions, a Deore DX crank will be more than adequate, in my opinion. I don't feel a need to worry about crank arm flex; any flex will turn the drivetrain by the same (microscopic) amount and there are no losses. Stiffness is largely about marketing with the exception of certain places where it actually matters, for example racks where flex impacts handling. And the frame, wheels, tires, etc will flex much more than the cranks anyway.

Similarly, a 90s Shimano mtb rear derailer like you mentioned will work perfectly fine. As long as it's not a short cage variant, I would expect any of the decent-to-"nice" ones to handle a triple and 11-34 adequately, and to look much nicer than a modern misshapen gray blob (ask me how I really feel). 

I think it comes down to what components you would enjoy the most. I personally find satisfaction in using high-quality older parts that I already have or can find cheaply, but if you'd prefer brand new, that's up to you; you can build a great bike either way. Hope you enjoy the Appaloosa!

Josiah Anderson 

Coeur d'Alene, ID

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[Joe Bernard]

I'm a long time derailleur snob who's spent ridiculous money on NOS-condition mechs and I'm over it. I also spent a lot of cash on my Riv Custom and Rich-built wheels and to me that's the bicycle. It sports some kinda grey/black Altus rear derailleur (not the 310), a Jim 11-36 7-speed cassette and cheap/functional/plastic S Ride 7-speed trigger shifter. It all works and the only reason I'm replacing it is I just ordered a 13-40 Jim 7 with a Shimano Acera M3020 derailleur that will handle it. Also cheap! I'm not fiddling with these parts because they're cheap, I just don't feel any particular need to find pricier parts to do the things I know this stuff does, nor can I be bothered to try to make older stuff built for 32t big cogs work with the bigger cogs I like to pedal now. 

"The front is a Sugino crank cuz they're what I'm used to and they work. The fd is an old NOS Suntour triple cuz I'm a Suntour snob! (shifts with a Microshift thumbie)

Joe Bernard 

[raw_meet]

Agree with the other comments here, I use older shimano parts on a few bikes and am happy with the performance. Steel frames flex before cranksets for sure, in my experience. 

That said, cheap newer shimano derailleurs are kind of a key element of the modern rivendell aesthetic thanks to Grant's enthusiasm for them (no doubt because he has to sell them to us), and as long as you use a nice looking crankset they don't ruin the look of a build. 

[Matt Hayden]

Another vote for older parts, if they're in good nick.   

For the most part, they Just Work^TM which is always good.  They also reduce the volume of stuff going into the waste stream which seems pretty important these days.  

They're also repairable, which is a big deal.  Some of the newer units are not readily reparable, and that bothers me.  

/mh

[Michael Morrissey]

Hi,

I have this 10 speed derailleur on my Appaloosa with a Silver shifter doing a 9 speed 34 tooth cassette and it works great. 

https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/rd-gx-t21-a1

I know everyone here is free to be a retrogrouch, but having a clutch derailleur and no chainslap or dropped chains is nice.

For cranks, go whatever. I like old 94 BCD cranks from eBay with narrow-wide chainrings (for extra slow gearing!) but I'm considering just going to a new SRAM one-by crank.

Good luck! Happy trails! Be sure to update this post with what you choose.

M

[Justin Kennedy]

I think it's nice to have a mix of old and new parts on a build, but sourcing good quality used parts or NOS can be time consuming and expensive. I spent a substantial sum on a used rapid rise rear derailleur for my Platypus and *really* dig it. Is it better than a $20 Altus? Functionally no, but it adds something special to the build. Def nothing wrong with a standard all-new parts build, though.