Anyone heard the Silver rear hubs?

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Jim Whorton

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Nov 25, 2021, 1:18:28 PM11/25/21
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Happy Thanksgiving, everybody.  I am planning a wheel build.  For a rear hub, I need something like the Deore T610…but it has to be silver in color, and those are scarce.  The Silver brand rear hubs look pretty on the Riv site, but it sounds like they’re a little noisier than Deore.  Coasting silently past a woodpecker or owl is really important to me!  Anybody have suggestions?

Jim Whorton in Rochester, NY

Garth

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Nov 26, 2021, 6:41:34 AM11/26/21
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The Silver hubs in the video could really use a Deore T610 in the same video for a comparison as by itself it doesn't help much !  A spinning wheel would also help as spinning in hand isn't a good depiction of a spinning wheel. While I've had silver hubs my entire life up until recently I had some Deore hubs built in black with black Rhyno Lite rims, with silver spokes and nipples. Frankly I rather like the black glossy finish on them as the silver Deore finish isn't exactly nice looking anyways.

What I can't do either is noise. The Deore is about as loud as a freewheel, and that's because their design IS basically a threaded, sealed self-contained freewheel unit that's screwed inside hub shell.  On the noisy hubs they put the pawls in the hub shell and the ratchets in the cassette body. Such a design acts as a hub body amplifier for the large pawls they put in them. They may claim the noise means high-er quality, that's just sales speak used to justify, deflect, gloss over the fact that they are loud. Seeing the the Silver hubs are that design, they're not going to be quiet like a Deore design.

Onyz hubs are no noise at all, but $470 is too much for me to put into one single component of one single wheel.

So Jim you have to ask yourself if having a black hub is such a big deal or not, and frankly.... whose big deal ? Do I really feel that way or is that something I heard and bought into along the way and adopted as important to me ?  Question everything, it's the only way to get to the heart of the matter, any and every matter.

lconley

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Nov 26, 2021, 10:43:30 AM11/26/21
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I have a Deore T610 and two Silver hubs, none of which have been built up, yet. The Deore is definitely quieter than the Silvers, but I would not really call the Silvers loud. The Deore T610 is new, unused, silver, 36 hole, 135mm with a black skewer. I am willing to sell the Deore for $45 shipped CONUS if you are interested. Note that the Deore silver is a slightly darker silver than the Silvers, but still silver.

Laing
Delray Beach FL

On Thursday, November 25, 2021 at 1:18:28 PM UTC-5 Jim Whorton wrote:

Jim Whorton

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Nov 26, 2021, 11:13:11 AM11/26/21
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Laing, thank you—that’s a nice offer but I am looking for a 32 hole.  And thanks Garth for the mechanical explanation of the  noise levels.  I’m still pretty new to wheel building and I’m going to go super slowly through this one and learn all I can.  

Jim

ascpgh

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Nov 26, 2021, 11:37:37 AM11/26/21
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I had the silver rear hub plight building up a new bike in '20. My polished silver SON SL front hub was a given and I didn't consider myself a victim of symmetry to want a polished silver rear hub. Noise was definitely a consideration as long as the hub was of sound design and construction. Aesthetics definitely floated around in my bucket without particular ranking. 

I ended up with a Suzue Classico cassette hub. Yeah it's noisier than a Deore but it hit it out of the park on all the other points and so far so good. Suzue Classico

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh
On Thursday, November 25, 2021 at 1:18:28 PM UTC-5 Jim Whorton wrote:

Garth

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Nov 26, 2021, 11:59:42 AM11/26/21
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 For clarity sake Andy the Classico is a 130mm hub and the Deore/Silver are 135mm and Jim needs a 135mm hub.

Bill Lindsay

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Nov 26, 2021, 6:22:09 PM11/26/21
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Whenever I'm looking for a good, reliable and affordable 135mm OLD rear hub I still think there are not a lot of better choices than Japanese made Deore XT.  Here's a nice used hubset for $75:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/353771592695?hash=item525e6e1bf7:g:vlkAAOSw9URhk2vJ

If you prefer to have NIB or NOS, then you likely will pay more.  I believe I have an NIB M750 rear hub.  Let me know if you want me to look for it.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

Jim Whorton

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Nov 26, 2021, 9:34:11 PM11/26/21
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Yes, I am looking for 135 OLD this time.  But Andy  I am thinking on the same lines as you,  with a silver SON dyno hub for the front wheel.  Black and silver, they’re both good…..I appreciate very much all I’ve learned on this forum.  It’s like bicycle college for someone like me.  

Jim

Joe Bernard

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Nov 27, 2021, 6:49:28 PM11/27/21
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Check out Will's new Platypus on the Riv News Blog: black rear hub, silver SON front. It's the cool thing now! 

Joe Bernard

Screenshot_20211127-154716_Chrome.jpg

Jim Whorton

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Nov 28, 2021, 4:45:04 PM11/28/21
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Yes, the mixed colors do look cool on Will's bike.  The panda pedals make it clear that the mixing of silver and black was no accident in this case.

Jim Whorton in Rochester, NY

rlti...@gmail.com

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Nov 29, 2021, 1:14:20 AM11/29/21
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My Hubbuhubbuh is set up like that as well. Not for any aesthetic reason but due to the fact that Velocity doesn’t make 40 hole rear hubs in silver. Peter White recommended that hub for our use case so I went with it despite most of the bike having silver components. 

The wheels are far enough apart that it isn’t really noticeable.

Robert Tilley
San Diego, CA

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 27, 2021, at 3:49 PM, Joe Bernard <joer...@gmail.com> wrote:

Check out Will's new Platypus on the Riv News Blog: black rear hub, silver SON front. It's the cool thing now! 
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Sean, PNW

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Nov 29, 2021, 12:37:40 PM11/29/21
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It's not so hard to strip a black T610 hub to the bare shell, remove the anodizing w/Easy Off HD oven cleaner, wet sand it with 400>800>1500 grit paper, polish it with some Simichrome on a buffing wheel, before rebuilding it with fresh grease.

*The one important tip is to really tighten the 10mm allen bolt holding the freehub body to the hub once the wheel is fully built, using the laced rim for the leverage needed to apply the requisite force.*

The whole process took maybe an hour on the T610 hub I used for a dynamo commuter wheelset I built about 2 years ago; their low price point, near silent freehub, durable construction, and rebuildable design make them hard to beat for said application.

James Whorton

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Nov 29, 2021, 1:52:14 PM11/29/21
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Sean, thanks for the tip.  I may try this next time.  For now, a helpful member of this group has come to my aid with a vintage Deore hub.  

I've said it before, but I'll repeat: I really enjoy the free education I get from this list.  And the bike pictures.

Jim in Rochester

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Bill Lindsay

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Nov 30, 2021, 9:32:19 PM11/30/21
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Earlier in the thread I recommended vintage Deore XT rear hubs, and the OP bought one of mine from me.  I stumbled upon an ebay seller offering vintage 32 hole Deore XT front hubs at the super low price of $18 shipped (m737, skewer included).  Front hubs never blow up, but dang that's a great price.  I'd pay $15 for the skewer on its own!  Front hubs also make cool fidget tchotchkes for your desk, or maybe you want to try wheelbuilding and need a hub.  I bought three of them.  

Here's the ebay site:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/393148158087

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

ascpgh

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Dec 1, 2021, 5:42:18 AM12/1/21
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That's a good find.

I find aesthetic displeasure with that era of the Shimano MTB hubs. "Parallax" was a design cue taken from the boutique part makers that were becoming the dreams and bucket list items of cyclists instead of Shimano's upper end parts. Their design language took from the greater simplicity of those, their more linear appearance and wider bearing stance. By doing so Shimano departed from aesthetically pleasing lines like these. Rough example, but same design era as the grail era XTR hubs lots of rando folks still seek.

Those black plastic cone seals of the Parallax hubs confused some folks. They were fixed at the axle and rotate at their wide skirt interface with an O-ring in a groove in the end of the hub body. I think it was engineering to a design to get the wider bearing stance rather than the best engineering providing shelter for those bearings. BITD we saw a few of them that didn't cipher to owners who thought were broken then did it for real, tearing up the fixture for holding the small end at the axle. If not intact, they left the wider stance ball bearings, race, cone and grease were pretty much out in the daylight. They were first available as the pricey axle and hardware assembly, certainly parts that if not intact now should give pause to any effort to build one into a wheel. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh
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