Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[A CT Cyclist]

Correct me if wrong but you can't use Sheldon fender nuts with Paul Racer brakes in the front because the recessed bolt  threads into the brake from behind the fork. The bolt threads directly into the back of the brake. If anyone has experience with these brakes and Sheldon fender nuts let me know. I just don't see any way that a Sheldon nut can work. On almost any other brake that is mounted through the center of the fork the bolt goes from front to back with a recessed nut tightening it all together. 

[EasyRider]

I don't see why not? Sheldon fender nuts are designed to replace the recessed nut on caliper brakes that use that style. Paul Racers also come in a non recessed version, if that helps.

[Tim Gavin]

Just as EasyRider describes, I use a Sheldon fender nut on the back of my recessed Racer brakes.  It makes fender mounting easier.

You're just over-thinking it.  

On Thu, Sep 7, 2017 at 5:45 AM, EasyRider <peter...@gmail.com> wrote:

I don't see why not? Sheldon fender nuts are designed to replace the recessed nut on caliper brakes that use that style. Paul Racers also come in a non recessed version, if that helps.

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[ascpgh]

I have those brakes and fenders on my Rambouillet. The trick of that image is that it is the rear of the caliper set. Here's the pubic side of the front and rear when installed:

I chose to use a daruma bolt http://www.santucci-cycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/VO-Fork-Daruma.jpg

on the fork to bring the front edge of the fender forward as much as possible. It hangs on the brake mounting bolt.

On the rear I have used the Problem Solvers Sheldon Nut to mount the fender support bracket: 

What's not obvious to the imagination without a picture is the extension from the recessed nut seat that is required to have the secondary threads and bolt for the fender support bracket in line and on top of the hex socket to tighten the recessed nut on the brake bolt.

Andy Cheatham

Pittsburgh

[Nash Taylor]

As others have said, it works. These brakes are exactly like any other brake as far as mounting to the frame or fork.

[Philip Kim]

I've used Sheldon fender nuts on Paul racers on my hillborne. Worked well.

[EasyRider]

Your photos did not load properly, please repost them.

On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:

I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words .....

This is the back of the brake with the recessed bolt that threads directly into it, no nuts involved.

This photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the picture below.

Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see in the photo below that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the brakes operation.

Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with the brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be threaded into it for fender mounting.

The only solution I can see is to use something like the extra long bolt kit for converting the Racer brake to a non-recessed brake.  At 

$14 plus shipping from CA to CT I think it would be cheaper to go the local hardware store.

[EasyRider]

Ok, I think I might have the answer here.

I think you may be under the impression that the recessed nut, and bolt in that product shot are one piece -- one bolt that threads directly into the brake arms from the rear of the fork. That is not the case. The wide, unthreaded portion of what you are calling "a bolt" is actually a recessed nut. The product photo just shows it threaded on. The Sheldon but replaces that nut, on a Paul racer or any other brake. If your frame is not drilled to accept a recessed nut, you can buy non-recessed versions of the racer. You don't have to modify it yourself. And if you buy a non recessed version, there's prob no need for a Sheldon nut.

[mikel...@juno.com]

not sure if I am addressing the question/concern but I bought, on ebay, a 60mm threaded bolt for an older frame effectively making my Racer caliper nutted and not recessed

 

mike goldman

rhode island

____________________________________________________________
Scientists: Tinnitus Has Nothing To Do With Your Ears
blesslifestyle.info
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3132/59b2ab0dc2a142b0d1728st02duc

[Nash Taylor]

Do you have the brakes in hand or are you looking at pictures?

[Lee Legrand]

I do not know about you guys but the pictures do not even show up in my email, except the nut and bolt.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 1:05 PM, A CT Cyclist <amee...@gmail.com> wrote:

The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed bolt that threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the brakes operation.

[Tim Butterfield]

Same here.  Of the original set of images from CT, only the last image of the bolt kit is visible.  On the repost, none of the images are visible.  The others and latest appear to me as just a grey circle with a white dash through it, like this:

Tim

[A CT Cyclist]

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[Tim Butterfield]

That post showed the images just fine.  Thanks.

Tim

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[Nash Taylor]

Where did you get these brakes? That's not how mine work.

[Nash Taylor]

Looks like these have been taken apart and not put back together right. And may be missing hardware.

[EasyRider]

OK, now I see your predicament. I agree with Nash. The bolt in your pictures doesn't look the one in the product photos on the Paul Components website. If you bought the brakes new and that bolt came in the package, well I'm stumped. But if you bought the brake used or with missing pieces, I would email Paul and ask what length button head hex bolt to get from the hardware store. I'd take the brake and the problem solver nut to ensure I got the right threading and that the head of the bolt didn't protrude and interfere with the movement of the brake arms. Or, just ask Paul to buy the part (I don't see the replacements for the recessed version on the website, just the ones for converting recessed to non-recessed.) Good luck.

[A CT Cyclist]

Yes I bought them new and no they aren't missing parts. I agree the bolt does look different from the one in the Pauls product photo. I didn't purchase the brakes from Pauls directly it makes more since shipping wise to purchase a bit closer to home. 

Just to clarify for those of you that have a Pauls front brake with a recessed bolt. The bolt threads through the front of the brake and there is a recessed nut that seats into the back of the bikes fork?

[ascpgh]

Just to clarify for those of you that have a Pauls front brake with a recessed bolt. The bolt threads through the front of the brake and there is a recessed nut that seats into the back of the bikes fork?

Yes. The bolt head on mine came fitted (snugged?) into the face of the cross bridge supporting both pivots and arms, the threaded shaft projecting rearward with enough length to extend almost through the fork crown. I never disassembled it to see if it is threaded through that plate or press fit. 

The long sleeve, small head nut going in from the back of the crown, a recess there permitting the head to seat fully below the surface, viewed from the side (use of the fender nut changes that). My picture has the fender nut still in place of the recessed nut. I was happier to use a daruma and have the mounting point supporting the fender farther forward. 

Andy Cheatham

Pittsburgh

[A CT Cyclist]

Thanks for the info. It seems that I have an incorrect bolt that works until you want to use a Sheldon Fender nut. It makes me wonder if the brakes had been returned and resold

 I can't remember where I purchased them. I've used a diorama before but with slightly bigger tires the clearances are tighter and I'm not comfortable with the nut from the durama sticking out on the inside of the fender. When I bought the Honjos I purchased a special bracket to hang from the brake bolt. I can put this bracket anywhere since I have to drill all the holes, which will allow me to place the fender as far forward as I want. I could just hang it off the front of the fork and be down with it but I do have a front rack attached there as well.

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[Philip Williamson]

I'd hang the bracket off the front. Darumas are more trouble than they're worth with fat tires.

Philip
www.biketinker.com