Weird (Silver bar end/friction/Shimano 9sp) shifting issue

[Adam Smith]

Hi everyone,

I am enjoying my brand spanking new Joe Appaloosa built up by Rivendell. Had it for about 6 weeks or so, I have put maybe 75 miles or so on it, most of them from the Nutmeg Nor'easter ride a couple of weekends ago, which was a wonderful 40 mile ride, Joe's maiden voyage I'd say.

Yesterday I was going for a short 6 mile ride and noticed that rear shifting was weird. I was able to shift from largest to next largest cog of the cassette, no problem, but as soon as I'd try to shift to the next largest cog (3rd from largest), it's as though the shifter took over and would shift all the way to the smallest cog. I'd then try to shift up one cog, but the shifter was resistant to light force, the amount of force that would typically shift up a gear.. If I tried to shift all the way back to the largest cog this would work. I have a triple up front, I tested out rear shifting in each of the front positions with the same results each time.

I searched this group and the internet a bit, and it doesn't seem like ghost shifting exactly, it's not skipping or shifting a single gear on its own. It is ghost-like though in that it is shifting from 3rd largest all the way to the smallest cog on its own. I'm unsure if this is a Silver shifter issue (tighten the bolt?) or a derailleur issue (adjust some things).

I plan to call Rivendell this week, but figured I'd tap the collective knowledge and experience of this group in the meantime.

Any thoughts or tips?

Thanks!

Adam

[Garth]

From what you wrote Adam it's a matter of adjusting the tension bolt, which I'm assuming is a d-ring, yes ? These are adjustable on the fly, you want just enough tension to hold the gear. It's just something you get a feel for, not too tight, not too loose.

[Adam Smith]

D-ring, yes. I'll give it a shot, thanks for the tip. This is my first time using friction shifting on a bicycle so it's all new to me!

Does that d-ring / tension tend to need regular attention or does it just need to be dialed initially and then get on with it and forget about it?

[Greg J]

Like any screw, it will loosen over time, but for the most part, it should be set and forget for a good long time.  Especially if you use locktite or beeswax on the threads.  (Although I have had one set of screws and a frame where it would loosen frequently, which I attribute to bigger tolerances between the frame threads and the shifter screws, but that isn't the case here since you're using modern parts.)

[Joe Bernard]

My experience is they need to be snugged up every now and then. After a while you'll be able to tell as soon as you nudge the D-ring before a ride that it's time. 

Joe Bernard

On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 9:52:44 AM UTC-8 adamc...@gmail.com wrote:

[Eric Norris]

Back in the day when everything was friction shifting, you could tell if your frame had more than normal flex in it because the D-rings would need to be snugged down more frequently as the frame tugged at the cables.

As others have said, most friction systems are set-and-forget. You’ll know if the D-rings need to be tightened, and then it takes about two seconds to do that. 

Eric Norris

campyo...@me.com

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[Garth]

  My shifters only tend to loosen with large shifts in climates, usually from humid to dry and hot to cold. Rather than trying to tighten it where it is, I simply don't pedal, then I loosen/release the tension of the D-ring totally and gently snug it up from fresh from there.

[Joe Bernard]

This is the part where I annoy everybody..I dislike those shifters. 9-speed Shimano uses clicks in the back that work great (plus friction option), and the front friction shifter doesn't loosen up. Easy! 

Joe Bernard

[Mike Godwin]

We need photo documentation Joe. 

Mike all friction here in SLO CA

[Joe Bernard]

Can't help ya, Mike. I sold all my 9-speed stuff and went full 1x11 clicker.  Clickety click!*

*flipped over on left bar cuz I have a dodgy right thumb

[Pam Bikes]

Your cables are just getting broken in which is normal and as others have said, just tighten the D ring.  And not too tight.  You'll know.  Just loosen or tighten to your liking.  Just think if it as a old radio knob where you dial in the station.  It'll feel and sound right.  

I have another bike w/the thumbies.  How do you tighten those?  Looks like there is a bolt but I haven't tried it b/c I don't want to mess anything up.  It was ghost shifting so I know it needs to tighten but where?

On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 9:19:52 AM UTC-5 adamc...@gmail.com wrote:

[Joe Bernard]

Hi Pam, 

Yes, if you have a bolt like the one pictured here on these Microsoft thumbies it replaces the D-ring and you snug them up with an Allen wrench (hex key). *

* Someday I'll remember what I'm supposed to call that tool. I've had entire conversations where the person I was talking to said "hex key" and I said "Allen wrench" every time. 

Joe "ya know, the tool for the thing" Bernard  

[atreya...@gmail.com]

I would also check the tension the D-ring . I typically start tightening all the way , put the shifter under max tension and start loosening it until it barely holds it in that position. I have found that this gives me the right balance of tension. 

[Adam Smith]

I forgot to follow up. Tightening the D-ring as suggested here did the trick of course. I turned it clockwise about a half turn, then backed off that position just a wee bit during the test ride (in light snow!) and found the sweet spot. Easy peezy! Thanks all!

Adam

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[Doug H.]

Adam,

I did the same adjustment with my Microshift bar-end shifter on a recent ride. There is a spot where it holds cable tension without being overly difficult to shift.

Doug