How to keep your bike from getting stolen.

[bluebirdonabicycle]

Apologize if this is a dumb question, but

Don"t laugh. Im just getting back into riding a bicycle. Im an older fellow. I will be getting an expensive Riv.

My main concern is it getting stolen while parked outside a store, restaurant, or who knows where.

Other than just quit worrying, Are there any suggestions that any of you (who have the same concerns) can offer?

Im not up on possible new technology, so other than chaining it up to death, Good advice is needed.

Thank you very much. Chief

[Will]

This isn't particularly complicated. You need a 3 pitlock set: both wheels and seatpost. Then you need a small U-lock to secure the frame to bikerack, etc...

I bought pitlocks from: http://www.urbanbiketech.com/       Cost = $86

The best U lock is Abus. Get a small one. The thing with Abus U locks is that the U bar does not swivel. So a thief needs to cut both sides to nab the bike.

Mine is a Granite Futura Mini. It's light, about 1.5 pounds. Cost = $90

http://www.modernbike.com/abus-granit-futura-mini-u-lock

Why does this setup work?

A thief cannot sell a bike that has locked wheel axles (can't fix flats) or a seat post than cannot be adjusted. It's simply a non-starter. The Abus U is almost bullet proof. The combined  level of deterence is extreme. It is well worth $200 to thoroughly secure a $4000 bike. I have an Atlantis. I park without fear.

[Tim Gavin]

Chief-

Where do you intend to lock up your bike?  Is there a lot of crime in the area?  Do you see lots of other bikes locked up?  Do you see any locked-up bikes that have been victimized (missing wheels, missing seats, bent and broken)? 

The crime factor makes a big difference in the lock you choose.  I.e, know your enemy so you can oppose him.  In a high-theft area, anti-theft skewers and bolts are a good idea (to keep your wheels and saddle), and a strong lock (or two) is essential.  A strong, heavy lock will resist even power grinders (for a time), but will weigh a couple pounds.

In a low-theft area, you just need to secure your bike enough so it can't be walked off by an opportunist.  A light cable lock may be enough.

From the theft tests I've seen, hardened steel chains with burly links and high-quality U-locks are both pretty resistant to power grinders and saws.  But, a U-lock can be defeated with a hydraulic bottle jack, so mega-chains seem to be the most theft-resistant.  

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[Patrick Moore]

Tim says it all well. I lock my custom Rivendells up, sometimes, with just a cheap cable -- but these are at locations where I am pretty sure the bikes would still be outside when I returned even if they had not been locked.

For other relatively safe but not quite as well known locations, I'll use a good U lock and a cable, or else a lock and chain consisting of Abus padlock and towing chain.

For unknown locations, or locations that I know are dangerous, I don't leave them outside at all. Several local stores are used to having me wheel my bikes down the aisles.

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[Ryan Fleming]

or depending where I'm going I take  a stealth bike

[David Person]

I agree with Tim's response.  A lot depends on where you live/lock up your bike.  You have to decide what's reasonable for where you live remembering that you need to carry whatever lock you decide to go with (the more secure the lock, the heavier it will be).  I am probably overprotected for where I live and carry an ABUS chain lock, mainly because I like the easy of use.  I may also take a small U lock to secure the front wheel to the downtube.  99% of the time I'd probably be ok with a cable lock, although they are not very secure.  But even though I live 45 miles outside of Los Angeles, bike are left outside overnight without incident (not my bikes).  So, yeah, depends on where you live.

David

[Will]

Yes and no... depends on where you live...

The fact is: his Rivendell-to-be will ALWAYS be the most expensive unit in any public bike rack. It will ALWAYS be the most beautiful bike in that rack as well.

It's bait of the highest order.

So why be anxious? Why hope the neighborhood is nice? Every couple of months we read the sad tale of some list-reader here who's been hosed using low-level security... and it's never U-Locks... it's always cable that fails.

[Justin August]

I would never lock my bike up with anything less than a U-lock. Preferably 2.

-Justin

[drew]

i think leaving it in a well lit, heavily trafficked or watched location is maybe more of a deterrent than most locks. 

but i agree with the u-lock/pitlock or double u-lock technique. heed quality too. they aren't all made the same.

ive had to break my bike out of a thick cable and a medium sized chain, and even at novice speed, it took less than 45 seconds. never again.  a good u-lock will take at least 4 or 5 minutes, and most thieves will never even try it, since it requires conspicuous tools and noise.  

the tricky part is saddles, bags and other stuff on the bike.

ive had 2 bikes stolen, 2 wheelsets, a saddlebag and the stuff inside of another saddle bag.  i adjusted my technique each time and am just starting to feel semi ok walking away from my bikes again. 

[Daniel D.]

.  Never u-locks?  It happens even to quality ones. they be can be cut through pretty quickly.  bottom line if a thief wants your bike they're getting it.  I haven't heard tales of woe from chain users but maybe that's because there aren't as many people that choose to lug one around. 

[Daniel D.]

these posts made the rounds a couple of weeks ago 

http://sfist.com/2016/04/18/video_thief_steals_bike_midday_on_v.php

https://www.facebook.com/groups/SanFranciscoBikeRideCrew/permalink/1000884580007605/

and one I hadn't seen before

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154116655309557&set=gm.10154194163479571&type=3&theater

I've never had a bike stolen (knock on wood) but I'm not going to say it's mainly because of my unbreakable lock or perfect technique and practices, a fair amount is just luck and paranoia. :p

[Mark Reimer]

I lock my Atlantis up in some fairly questionable areas, but always for as short a time as I can manage - ie: getting a haircut, running in for groceries or a restaurant maybe. 

First thing I do is try to lock it in an area with a lot of foot traffic or exposure. Sure that may not stop some thieves, but I'm sure it at least makes them stop and think. I lock my frame/rear wheel with the "Sheldon method", killing two birds with one stone, using a Kryptonite mini-U lock. Then I run a thick cable around the front wheel, tied into the u-lock in the back. Sometimes I'll run a second cable through my saddle as well. I've never had anything stolen yet, knock on wood. 

[John Phillips]

I found a column in an online bike rag yesterday, can't remember where, in which the columnist said Pitlock wheel skewers will eventually strip and need replacement.

This guy said his lasted three years before needing to be replaced.

Has anyone here had any experiences with Pitlock skewers wearing out? Does anyone replace theirs on a regular basis?

Or has anyone had trouble getting the seatpost pitlock tight enough to keep your seatpost from slipping?

Thanks in advance,

John

[Will]

I have skepticsim for this bike rag report. My pitlocks are well engineered. I expect them to last for a very long time. The install instructions tell you not to over-tighten the lock bolt. I suppose if you crank it down you could damage the skewer threads.

I've had no trouble what-so-ever. What I like about the system is you get significant protection for no weight penalty. The pitlocks weigh less than the QR skewers they replace.

No problems with seat post.

[Lungimsam]

 

This reminds me of something that happened to me when I finished up a perm pop here in Maryland. I entered the final controle (that's fancy-speak for "gas station").

I rolled my bike into the door and up to the counter, nervously explaining to the customers that I brought it in with me because didn't want anyone to steal it. Some guy took one look at my Bleriot and said "Ain't nobody gonna wanna steal that!".  

[Lungimsam]

They say you must grease the threads upon each use.

They say you should tighten by hand, then 1-1.5 turns after that with tool.

But I usually can't even get it 1 turn. 

[John Phillips]

One needs to regrease the threads each time one unlocks & relocks the wheel?

John

[Lungimsam]

Thats what the instructions say.
But I greased mine so heavily, that upon first removal and remounting of the wheel, there was still so much grease on the skewer that I didnt bother.

[Patrick Moore]

FWIW, mere allen-key skewers, which I use with vertical dropouts (they don't clamp strongly enough for horizontals, at least with a fixed wheel) may provide a bit of deterrence, simply because they lack the opening lever. At any rate, I've never had a wheel stolen, even at the university. 

I find that, after several years the allen heads (stainless steel bolts) do enlarge a bit.

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[Will Ashe]

I had pitlocks on my bike for at least two years with no issues, but even if they needed replacing it would be worth it to only have to carry one
u-lock.

[bluebirdonabicycle]

Thanks to everyone for the experienced advice.......

However, Has anyone adopted any of the new GPS anti-theft deterrence gizmos? 

Like Sherlock.Bike   or  Spybike.com?

Chief

[Sam Day]

my oldest pitlock is 15years old - bought in Germany in 2001. no problems.

mechanical awareness helps avoid stripping or whatnot. 

If some online bike rag guy had his fail, I'm guessing user error. 

sam, seattle, 

[Peter White]

Most common user error is not putting a bit of grease on the threads. Next would be tightening too much. 

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