(maybe) WTB Brooks B68 - Question regarding brooks saddle for Joe Appaloosa

[Jonathan D.]

I am loving my new Joe Appaloosa.  I think I officially bought the final 55 Silver from Rivelo on Saturday.  I realize my current B17 Saddle isn't a great fit for the more upright position.  I am considering the B67 but really don't need the springs. The B68 seems like it would be a great choice but it is discontinued.  Any advice or thoughts on saddles? Do the springs do much in regards to ride feel or weight? Is there a good alternative to the B68? I might be interested in purchasing a used B68 or I'll stick with a B67.  

I'll have to do a right report soon.  So far i am loving the ride. Thanks in advance for all of your advice.

[Deacon Patrick]

You may want to look into Rivet's new wider saddles. I can't help with the springs question as I've never ridden springs. Supple tires, knees and elbows do the trick for me. Grin.

http://rivetcycleworks.com

With abandon,

Patrick

[David Banzer]

I haven't tried one, but the Rivet Loveland is pretty much the same shape/size as a B68.

[Chris Birkenmaier]

I bought several b68 saddles for the exact reason you mentioned. I liked the size and shape for upright riding and didn't need the springs. I do own the B67 too but often the springs on these types of saddles squeak which I don't care for. Some lube often helps with that. Overall I favor the B68. I bought several of them from a list member here a while back

[Joe Bernard]

Are you sure about the B17? I have them on my Appaloosa and ebike, both of which are upright-ish rides, and they're​ great. Both bikes got B17s I'd already broken in; if you're running a new one on your new bike, you might want to give the fit a few weeks to work out for you.

[LeahFoy]

I have the B68 on my Bets and I LOVE it. My husband has the B67 on his Clem and I like it far less. His seems softer, somehow, and maybe saggy? The springs aren't fun to work around if you plan to use a Saddlesack. I like the harder B68; it's like sitting on a wooden church pew. They're offered for sale occasionally, and you may find one if you nose around a bit. Or you could check out Rivet since it seems highly recommended.

[Dan McNamara]

I believe I have a B68 in the stash. I'll double check and let you know. 

They are a great saddle for upright riding - can't understand why they were discontinued. 

Dan

On Apr 19, 2017, at 7:15 PM, Jonathan D. <jdone...@gmail.com> wrote:

I am loving my new Joe Appaloosa.  I think I officially bought the final 55 Silver from Rivelo on Saturday.  I realize my current B17 Saddle isn't a great fit for the more upright position.  I am considering the B67 but really don't need the springs. The B68 seems like it would be a great choice but it is discontinued.  Any advice or thoughts on saddles? Do the springs do much in regards to ride feel or weight? Is there a good alternative to the B68? I might be interested in purchasing a used B68 or I'll stick with a B67.  

I'll have to do a right report soon.  So far i am loving the ride. Thanks in advance for all of your advice.

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[Joe Bernard]

One of you probably has my B68. The "wooden church pew" effect Leah mentioned didn't work for me at all. It's very wide, with an almost vertical face that drops down behind your thighs, and for me created a similar effect to legs rubbing against a packed Carradice saddlebag. I kept sliding forward to get away from the wooden bench behind me, and was not a happy rider. Me no likey!

[Chris Birkenmaier]

I really only do upright or fairly upright riding anymore.  No dropped bars left on my bikes.  Both the B17 and the B68/B67 work for me for this type of riding.  I find each saddle to be unique in feel.  Some are great off the bat and others take time to get there and a few just don't cut it.  Overall though I'm a great fan of Brookes.

[Davey Two Shoes]

I quite liked the spring in the b67 when I rode one on a touring bike with albatross bars. You don't lose any power in your stroke due to springs and they don't bounce around during your pedal stroke either, rather they move with you in a way that isn't interfering. Really, they do their job when they're supposed to and you don't notice them otherwise. I'll be buying a flyer for my clem smith when it arrives. I think springs are great for a bike that may see some hairy off-roading.

[Jonathan D.]

It is always amazing me to me how personal a saddle decision is. I have two B17s on more aggressive bikes. They felt great on day one. I can tell the feel is different on the Joe. It doesn't feel bad but not the same. I suspect a wider saddle would fit better. I might just try the B67 it is a really heavy seat but that probably doesn't make any difference if I already weigh
'215.

[René Sterental]

I'm using the B67 Select on My Cheviot, Now with Choco bars to try them (I like them) and really enjoy the saddle. I think I have a brand new B68 in honey somewhere in storage, but need to find it. It'll be a few weeks since our floors are being redone due to a leak and everything is a mess now. 

René 

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[Bob Lovejoy]

Has anyone tried/ridden a Brooks C19 (Cambium)?  Just curious...  It is the wider version of the C17.

Thanks,

Bob

[Jonathan D.]

I had the same question. It sounds like it is similar to the B68 with the new material.

[Chris Birkenmaier]

I haven't tried the wider Cambium but I do have the C-17.  The sides on the back portion of the saddle slope down versus the leather standard ones which are pretty flat across the width.  I find that my butt can not tolerate the slope on the C-17.  Someone on this list tried the wider Cambium and reported the same issue.  I'd still like to try one but without buying it first.

On Thursday, April 20, 2017 at 12:58:35 PM UTC-4, Jonathan D. wrote:

[Chris Birkenmaier]

I'm kind of a saddle-collecting geek so at one point I compared the measurements on several saddles.  The Rivet Loveland is 250 Long 205 Wide and 70 High.  The B67 (and therefore also B68) is 260 Long, 205 Wide and 73 High.  So, yes, close but I do like a longer nosed saddle which the Brooks gives you versus the Rivet.

[Kieran J]

The Cambiums all have that same roundy curvature that I really dislike. I bought a C17 and rode it for about 90 seconds and immediately hated it - that was enough for me. The cut-out version may be more forgiving but the shape is roughly the same as the non-cut ones and the rubber construction is very hard.

The shape of the B68 is very different than the Cambiums, in that it is wide and very flat across the cantle and has a sharp ridge between the middle-top of the saddle and the skirts. The B68 also has a good amount of flex across the back, during pedaling and cornering. 

KJ

On Thursday, April 20, 2017 at 1:40:54 PM UTC-4, Chris Birkenmaier wrote:

[Phil B]

Jonathan D  said:

I am loving my new Joe Appaloosa.  I think I officially bought the final 55 Silver from Rivelo on Saturday.  I realize my current B17 Saddle isn't a great fit for the more upright position.  I am considering the B67 but really don't need the springs. The B68 seems like it would be a great choice but it is discontinued.  Any advice or thoughts on saddles?

 Jonathan - I've got a B-72 that I'm no longer using.  It's got about 60 miles on it, and I found it comfortable for upright riding, which I no longer need.

 It's got the curly Q spring in back which is great for those harsh bumps - like accidentally riding off a curb, not that I ever did that. Dark Brown. 

 
          Measures:  200W  by  210L   Treated with Obernaufs only    Comes with 27.2 seatpost mast and clamp.   PM me and I can send you pictures should you want.  

Phil B

Sonoma County

707 318-9318

[Davey Two Shoes]

I dont think I could get on board with a c-19. I have a c-17 on one of my bikes and while I find it comfortable, the material is definitely not as forgiving as leather. For an aggressive ride thats fine, but for something upright I'd want the real plush effect of leather.

On Thursday, April 20, 2017 at 1:40:54 PM UTC-4, Chris Birkenmaier wrote:

[Patrick Moore]

This is sort of an aside, but I swear that, if I ever set up an upright bike, I'll install a B 190, just because. IIRC, there was an even more elaborate model in the old days that combined coil and loop springs; my Hero had a Brooks copy with 3 huge chromed loops at each end rear and at the nose, but IIRC, there was one that had the loops and coils.

More seriously, I've used the Champion Flyer, the B 67, the B 72, and possibly the B 68, though I may be confusing that with the Flyer. (I've also used the B 17, B 17 narrow, and the Pro, as well as various other leather saddles.) At any rate, I never got much use from the springs and found that the shape affected comfort much more than "give". 

I gather that the B 72 is a mean between the unsprung 68 and the coil spring 67, sort of.

This might help: http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2010/11/choosing-upright-saddle-brooks-b72-vs.html

On Wed, Apr 19, 2017 at 8:15 PM, Jonathan D. <jdone...@gmail.com> wrote:

I am loving my new Joe Appaloosa.  I think I officially bought the final 55 Silver from Rivelo on Saturday.  I realize my current B17 Saddle isn't a great fit for the more upright position.  I am considering the B67 but really don't need the springs. The B68 seems like it would be a great choice but it is discontinued.  Any advice or thoughts on saddles? Do the springs do much in regards to ride feel or weight? Is there a good alternative to the B68? I might be interested in purchasing a used B68 or I'll stick with a B67.  

I'll have to do a right report soon.  So far i am loving the ride. Thanks in advance for all of your advice.

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[Patrick Moore]

I mean, "with the b 72 ..."

On Fri, Apr 21, 2017 at 5:06 PM, Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com> wrote:

...possibly the B 68, though I may be confusing that with the Flyer. 

[Joe Bernard]

I want to put the B190 on my folder. It's bigger than the bike!

[Patrick Moore]

It's probably almost as heavy.

On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 3:44 PM, Joe Bernard <joer...@gmail.com> wrote:

I want to put the B190 on my folder. It's bigger than the bike!

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[LLM]

I got a C19 this week.  On my first ride, the saddle was immediately and intolerably painful to sit on.   After tilting the nose up just a bit (see below), the saddle became comfortable enough for me to decide to keep it.

[Joe Bernard]

I had a C17 for a short time. It's hard to imagine a saddle supposedly related to a B17 could be so wretched.

[Allingham II, Thomas J. (Retired Partner)]

This illustrates how. Personal saddle choice is. If I could put a slotted C17 on every one of my bikes, I would.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 23, 2017, at 12:09 AM, Joe Bernard <joer...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I had a C17 for a short time. It's hard to imagine a saddle supposedly related to a B17 could be so wretched.
>

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[Bob Lovejoy]

Agreed...  For years I hoarded old Avocet Touring II's (still have a couple!), then found another, non-fancy saddle that a friend recommended, now no longer made, and hoarded those!  

Saddles really are a personal thing... everyone is different... the same but different enough for it to matter.

My only advice is that when someone finds a saddle that really, really works for them, they should buy several while they are there and available!  You will get a new bike, or sell or give a bike away, thinking that it will be easy to replace that old saddle... and then you find no one has it anymore and you will panic, and look, and look some more...

I almost always smile somewhat knowingly when someone is selling a bike, really fancy or not so much, and they say all is included.... except for the saddle!

Bob 

Galesburg, IL

.... like finding really comfortable walking shoes or boots ...

[Patrick Moore]

Good advice. I've got a bag of the original issue Flites, and still I am tempted to buy another whenever I see one for sale. For me, they just disappear, which is I suppose the best test of a saddle, no?

I recovered one in thickish leather, but without the original padding which came off with the old cover. It's as transparent, at least, as the others and looks much better, too.

Patrick Moore, who just rode it in windy ABQ, NM.

On Sun, Apr 23, 2017 at 1:36 PM, Bob Lovejoy <boblo...@gmail.com> wrote:

,,,,

[Jonathan D.]

I am leaning towards trying the C19. I live in PDX and like the appeal of having a non leather seat on my commute bike with all the rain. I'll have to report back.

[Joseph Tousignant]

The "Aged" version of the Brooks B68 is better,....BUT only after I tweeked mine as I don't care what Brooks ads say about ANY of them being comfortable from day one,...they were still hard. (initially! :-)

But after I did my usual "treatment" I do on ALL my saddles, ....it's comfy and the wider B68 is fine on my behind! :-)

I Do like the "Aged" version because the pebbled surface soaks in the first application of the Brooks "Proofhide" product better than the smooth grained saddles. I know Brooks used to say Aged Saddles didn't need Proofide, but that's BS in my experience!  I do both Top and Bottom,....and THEN the real workout begins. I mount the saddle on a bike, and fold a few layers of canvas over the top. I use a couple of the US Mint coin bags I have laying around,...but some old jeans or similar should work as well....

....then I use a 2-1/2 pound leather mallet and hammer into the saddle top about 300 times, covering as evenly as you can. I do the first hundred strikes a bit more moderately, and the last 200 with stronger hits. The early strikes begin to loosen the fibers and later ones add greatly to the Comfort level.  Now the saddles feel like a well "broken in" Keister Cushion!  

  I've "treated" maybe 10 or 12 Brooks leather saddles this way over about 25 years, and NEVER had one tear,...or even scratch from the leather mallet strikes,...AS LONG AS you use several layers of canvas or similar to protect from direct contact with the leather mallet.  (I seem to recall using a rubber mallet once too a long time ago?)

   I also know that Brooks or any other saddle maker would likely say you are "abusing" their product, but as I bought it I can do what I want to to it. My experience is it does NO harm, and only improves the riding comfort for Immediate results. 

Now nearing age 64, I don't have TIME to wait a few years for a new HARD and uncomfortable Leather Saddle to "Break In",....and when I was younger I didn't have the Patience! :-)

Oh,...i'll say it but it should be obvious,...DON'T use a regular STEEL Hammer to do this!  It doesn't spread out the striking forces enough, and concentrates the energy in a way that you may create dimples or other damage to the leather.  In the end you assume any risk, but my experience over decades has shown this to be a safe procedure if done in the way I outline. 

Joe T 

On Thursday, April 20, 2017 at 1:20:31 AM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:

[saintruggler]

Resurrected thread from 2017!?

Incidentally, I have a brand new-in-box, never installed Brooks B72 that I’ve been trying to find tbe right bike for. Any more (historical) perspectives on the merits of the B72 versus the sprung B67, which I’ve had installed on my daily commuter for 7+ years?

Eric in Oregon