Re: [RBW] Digest for rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com - 22 updates in 11 topics

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Tom Allingham

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Jun 30, 2024, 9:56:23 AM (3 days ago) Jun 30
to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
Apologies to all — the links don’t seem to work.  I’ll figure out a fix shortly.


On Jun 30, 2024, at 9:50 AM, rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com wrote:

Tom Allingham <thomas.all...@gmail.com>: Jun 30 09:43AM -0400

All:
 
Not much in the way of direct Rivendell content (the seatpost came from Riv), but I hope Jim will indulge me, because this is an unusual opportunity that the list may be very interested in. And apologies for the long post, but for those who are interested, it’ll be worth it.
 
Almost 12 years ago, when I was very interested (at least in the abstract) in randonneuring, I travelled to Peter Weigle’s lovely shop in Connecticut and purchased a JPW-reimagined 650B conversion of a Raleigh Competition. Peter has done a few of these extensive conversions over the years, and the reviews on Flickr by their owners are incredibly enthusiastic. My example is gorgeous — a deep maroon with gold pin striping by Peter, and contrasting blue paint on the lugs. The details are stunning. Here are a few pics of the bike in Peter’s shop and mocked up after the conversion:
 
https://flic.kr/p/dRb1iJ
Raleigh, modified by JPW as 650B randonneur
flic.kr
https://flic.kr/p/HoU6wS
JPW image of reimagined Raleigh Competition
flic.kr
https://flic.kr/p/Jb5NNN
JPW image of reimagined Raleigh Competition
flic.kr
 
The frameset came with installed headset, perfectly fitted fluted fenders, Mafac brakes, JPW custom front rack and taillight, and pump. On Flickr, Peter described the many steps in the conversion process for this bike this way:
“I want these conversions to be special, and there are many things that happen in the process.
Here's a short list.
First of all each frame is inspected to make sure everything seems ok.
Frame geometry is measured, forks are re-raked to obtain the desired trail.
The frame is milled and faced, the crown race is turned down to fit standard headsets.
Frame is checked for alignment, this will be repeated as the bridges are installed, and one more time as a final check.
Bridges are cut out and new ones placed in the proper location for 650b fender lines.
Chainstays are manipulated to increase clearance for 42 mm tires.
Cantilever bosses are added and cable hangers modified as needed.
Brake cable guides are removed and are replaced on the other side of the tube from their stock location to "sweeten" up the brake cable routing.
Water bottle, shift lever, pump mounts and tail light mounts are brazed on.
On this frame the forks were modified to accept a dyno wire inside.
A custom front rack is made, fenders are reshaped and installed.
A custom tail light needs to be fashioned, and a pump modified to fit.
Mafac cantilevers are cleaned up, polished and a set of Kool Stop pads are installed.
The frame is bead blasted, primed, painted, lug lined, box striped, decals are applied, clear coats applied, baked, and then hand rubbed.
Frame Saver is applied and a headset is installed, then I have to take the photos for all to see.”
 
On Flickr, our group member Bill Lindsay commented on this bike:
 
“JPW in one word, Varsity — almost everybody else, in two words, Junior Varsity.”
 
I immediately began planning to finish the build. I built a dyno wheel set (SON front hub, Compass Cycles rear, with VO rims) with 42mm Grand Bois Hetres, installed a BB (I think it’s a Phil Wood), Rene Herse crankset, Nitto stem with Rene Herse decaleur, Nitto lugged seatpost, and beautiful NOS Ideale saddle. I set aside a tall Berthoud Handlebar Bag, and collected a Campy groupset and (at Peter’s recommendation) a set of Huret Jubilee derailleurs and shifters. And then life intervened, and now (more than 10 years later), being realistic, I know I’m not going to finish this build. That makes me sad, BUT is an opportunity for someone else, I hope someone on this list.
 
I really want this bike to go to someone who will appreciate it and ride it. So:
 
I will sell what Peter sold me (frameset, fenders, custom rack and taillight, pump and Mafac brakeset) for the price I paid in 2012: $2100. I imagine if Peter were still doing these, that price would be much, much higher.
 
I will also sell any of the parts I added or collected, at what I estimate to be my cost, as follows:
 
Wheelset with tires: $820
 
Handlebars: $120
 
Nitto stem: $120
 
Phil Wood BB, with rings: $200
 
Rene Herse double crankset: $475
 
Nitto lugged seatpost: $200
 
NOS Ideale saddle: $120
 
Rene Herse decaleur: $199
 
Berthoud Handlebar Bag: $359
 
If there’s interest in either the Campy groupset or the Jubilee derailleurs and shifters, I’ll try to figure out what I paid for those.
 
Feel free to mix and match if you’d like some but not all. Buyer to pay shipping, but I will work with you to facilitate, or meet halfway if you’re in the Northeast or mid-Atlantic area.
 
For some reason, I can’t locate many pictures of the bike in my shop. But here are a few, and I can take more pics of anything anyone would like to see. It remains pristine. And I will measure whatever anyone would like me to measure. I believe the bike is a 58cm; might be 59cm. But again, I’ll check if you’re interested.
 
https://flic.kr/p/H2ScMM
NOP (New Old Project)
flic.kr
https://flic.kr/p/HxbH5w
NOP (New Old Project)
flic.kr
https://flic.kr/p/HReFHR
NOP (New Old Project)
flic.kr
 
I hope someone on the list will give this bike a new home!
 
Tom Allingham
Wilmington, DE
Anthony Davila <anthony...@gmail.com>: Jun 28 12:20PM -0700

Hi, I'm interested in getting a Rivendell in a year or so, but I wanted to
try some out in the meantime. Does anyone know of any places that have
readily available rivs (preferably Roadinis)? Where did you guys try them
out before purchasing?
 
I'm from Florida and the riv dealer near me doesn't have any complete
bikes. If anyone is in the Tampa or Miami area and is generous enough to
let me have a test-ride, that would be great! Thanks in advance!
Bill Lindsay <tape...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 12:25PM -0700

Finding a local Rivendell owner is a good idea, and you should definitely
try to pursue that. In 2024 it can be tricky to execute a Rivendell
Acquisition Plan a year in advance. If it's a year down the road because
you are saving up the money then my advice is to plan on being patient
twice. Be patient now while you are saving up the money and trying to
arrange your informal test ride stuff. The second round of being patient
will hinge on what is actually available for you to buy in the summer of
2025. If you have your heart set on one particular thing, and that thing
isn't available, then you'll have to react to that situation.
 
Big picture, if it's possible, I think it's a good idea in 2024 to be ready
to react when the perfect bike presents itself to you. If a bike you want
to own is available, buy it, because it may not be available to you later.
That's easier said than done, particularly if your tastes are fluid.
 
Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
 
Mathias Steiner <mathiass...@gmail.com>: Jun 30 05:32AM -0700

Regarding the test rides: you should state your desired frame size and/or
your PBH.
 
 
On Saturday, June 29, 2024 at 3:25:21 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
 
Jay <jason....@gmail.com>: Jun 29 04:37PM -0700

Is there a site or youtube channel that explains crankset specs and
compatibility (like all about them and how they work with a drivetrain, and
frame). It's one part of the bike I really don't understand.
 
Reason I'm asking is that at some point, I would like to switch my black
GRX 2x crankset on my Roadini to something silver in colour. But I want
to understand this from a 'system' perspective vs. individual parts. Also,
I really just want to understand how they match up to bottom brackets, BCD,
spacing for the frame, how they interact with the different speeds (e.g.,
can a 10 or 12 speed crankset work with an 11sp drivetrain?), crank arms
vs. chain rings and compatibility, etc., etc. I want to learn up front
now, so I can think of this longer term and when I come across a part that
meets my future build ideas, on sale, I can confidently pull the trigger.
 
Feel free to share your wisdom here too, but I was asking for reference
sites/channels so I learn on my own, over time.
 
Thanks!
Steve <steve...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 07:52PM -0700

Jay, you might start with Sheldon Browns website. He offers several
discussions regarding all things crank. Here's a link to one:
 
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-cranks.html
 
The thing about cranks is that as simple as the basic mechanical concept
is, the variety of design approaches does make it all a bit overwhelming.
If you stick with Silver cranks from RBW you can't go wrong, and you'll
always have this group and RBW for tech advice. (If retro style appeals to
you you should also look at Velo Orange cranks)
 
Steve
 
On Saturday, June 29, 2024 at 7:37:24 PM UTC-4 Jay wrote:
 
Ed Carolipio <ed.car...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 11:06PM -0700

I recommend understanding the concept of a chainline first since nearly all
the design choices and options you mention about cranks involve a builder
maintaining a target chainline. Here's a good write
up: https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1755/bicycle-chainline/
 
For "speed" (7/8/9/10, etc.), that is driven by the dimensions of the rear
cassette, i.e., the rear cog width/spacing + teeth height/width/spacing.
The dimensions in the chain and the front chainrings/crank come from those
dimensions. Sometimes there's enough "slop" or margin in the system that
combos for which the manufacturer will not guarantee compatibility (e.g., 9
speed cassette and 11 (road) speed chainring) can be made to work.
 
--Ed C.
Redondo Beach, CA
On Saturday, June 29, 2024 at 4:37:24 PM UTC-7 Jay wrote:
 
maxcr <max.fai...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 06:48PM -0700

Beautiful green Bombadil on Ebay
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/135117446134?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IgCJXXMpQ8C&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=GJ4Z5qvBSlW&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY> (no
connection to the seller). Check the size details because I think they
listed it as a 63, which might not be correct.
 
[image: s-l1600 copy.jpg]
 
Josh C <getjosh...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 09:54AM -0700

A proper toe-in setup often solves this problem. Sometimes a more
aggressive angle than you might be used to for the first couple rides may
help.
 
On Saturday, June 29, 2024 at 9:45:09 AM UTC-4 Brian Turner wrote:
 
John Rinker <jwri...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 12:37PM -0700

Thanks for your input Hoch. The pads are several months on the bike, and
everything is solid as can be in the brake arms. The pads are very slightly
loose in the pad holders though.
 
Hey Brian, Thanks for your explanation. I've just put a nickle's worth of
space in the pads and still quite a squeal. Perhaps I'll take Josh C's
suggestion and put a $1.25 worth of space between pad and rim! ;)
 
Cheers, John
 
On Saturday, June 29, 2024 at 9:54:20 AM UTC-7 Josh C wrote:
 
Hoch in ut <cack...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 04:52PM -0700

The way I understand it, brake squeal happens when the pads grab the rim,
reach max coef of friction (after they slip forward microscopically in the
pad holder or due to brake arm play) then slip/spring back. The rapid, tiny
movements back and forth cause the noise.
 
I’m wondering if holder less pads would work better in this regard.
 
https://a.co/d/0fmE8IZP
On Saturday, June 29, 2024 at 1:37:16 PM UTC-6 John Rinker wrote:
 
Garth <gart...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 05:34PM -0700

Short, centered pads are also helpful, like Kool-stop City pad, for
example. It's only 46mm long. I never thought making pads 73mm long and
offset was of any actual benefit. more of a nuisance really as they prevent
the arms from opening all the way as they're supposed to. A common argument
assumes a longer pad is better in rain or mud, but that's nonsensical. That
would render road and cross bikes that use standard(road) size pads
inferior, and that's not the case. I keep my rims and pads clean with
common window cleaner.
 
https://koolstop.com/products/city-threaded
 
On Saturday, June 29, 2024 at 7:52:42 PM UTC-4 Hoch in ut wrote:
 
Dick Perlmutter <dpe...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 12:53PM -0700

Are there plans for an Asheville (or area) meetup this year?
 
On Friday, July 21, 2023 at 2:16:05 AM UTC-4 Chris Clodfelter wrote:
 
Steve <steve...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 04:46PM -0400

Dick, I've heard some loose talk about maybe September, but to my knowledge
nothing has jelled yet. I'll try to touch base with the local planning
group and see what their thoughts are. If it's a go we'll get a notice up
on the Owners Bunch group site.
 
Steve Forst
 
Dick Perlmutter <dpe...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 07:57PM -0400

cool!
 
 
 
Dick Perlmutter
704-254-3056
 
 
R A <rau...@gmail.com>: Jun 25 12:34AM -0700

My wife and I have Rivendell fever after we both tired one for the first
time recently. I am looking for a 52cm Clem smith jr for my wife. We are
located in Chicago and are willing to pay for shipping and or possibly
willing to fly out to purchase it
Kim H. <krhe...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 03:52PM -0700

Here is a recent post from Doug from this group:
 
https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/Nmr7ArEliGU
 
Kim Hetzel.
 
Kim H. <krhe...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 03:40PM -0700

For the record, I have one on my Clem, a NITTO Technomic NTC-280 Stem
https://alexscycle.com/products/nitto-technomic-ntc-280-stem-1?_pos=1&_sid=01047d6bd&_ss=rl.
 
[image: Nitto Technomis NTC-280 stem.jpg]
 
Kim Hetzel.
On Tuesday, June 18, 2013 at 6:40:52 AM UTC-7 ccanter wrote:
 
Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 02:30PM -0400

Oh this is going to be good!
 
Sent from my iPhone
 
On Jun 28, 2024, at 11:01 AM, PW <philip....@gmail.com> wrote:
 

 
image0.jpeg
 
Oh, it definitely is!
 
And was one of my very first (and easy) decisions when I began planning and collecting for my build.
 
Admittedly, they work best when direct mounted, but I've never felt they lacked for braking power running as center mounts instead. Especially not on road.
 
They're also one of the suggestions Riv makes for brake options on the Uno frame set page.
 
I do understand how they might be a financial concern for people tho - they're not exactly cheap!
 
Although they do tend to come up on the secondhand market often.
 
PW
 
~
 
(917) 514-2207
 
~
 
On Jun 28, 2024, at 6:56 AM, dane...@gmail.com <dane...@gmail.com> wrote:
 
Hmm... I live somewhere hilly (Vermont) and ride my roadini on everything granted the pads on the 559s on the roadini are high in the slot nd i swapped out for Kool Stops. Not arguing that they are the most powerful brakes ever but they seem to do the job.
 
-Dan
 
On Friday, June 28, 2024 at 9:51:24 AM UTC-4 DavidP wrote:
 
A Paul Racer (or other centerpull) could be used on a RoadUno (or Homer, Roadini, etc.), you'd just need to add cable hangers at the headset/stem and seat binder bolt.
 
My primary road bike is a Malocchio with 559s and fenders. I also have a Pescadero with maxed out GC610 centerpulls. I've had these bikes setup with the same fenders, wheels, and tires (moved most of the parts from the Pescadero to the Malocchio frame when I got it). Breaking performance between the two setups seems about the same to me and has been perfectly adequate even when caught in a downpour on the 559s, but (1) I'm fairly light and live in an area with rolling hills and (2) the 559s are not maxed out on the front of the Malocchio.
 
Riv says the RoadUno takes 46mm without a fender and 43mm with - maybe they haven't actually set one up with 43s and 559s but that doesn't sound problematic to me and my experience with 559s and fenders hasn't been problematic.
 
I like the RoadUno and am looking forward to seeing the builds, but am not planning on getting one. My RoadUno proxy is a Handsome Devil with 38s, fenders, and cantilevers, built up this spring and soon to be converted to 3x1. It also brakes fine.
 
-Dave
 
On Friday, June 28, 2024 at 9:37:02 AM UTC-4 Richard Rose wrote:
 
Is the Paul Racer not an option on these bikes?
 
Sent from my iPhone
 
On Jun 28, 2024, at 8:57 AM, Mathias Steiner <mathiass...@gmail.com> wrote:
 
I'm going to write it down to see if I'm the only one who thinks the following:
 
(i) I'm glad the Tektro 559s are available. Even with the pads all the way down, they allow "OK" braking even with the factory pads. I'm not sure I'd be happy if I lived where it's hilly.
 
(ii) Fenders are problematic because the 559s provide obstacles much lower than the brake bridge/fork crown.
 
Notably, there's a spring sticking down; the silver Roaduno pictures show that clearly.
 
(iii) Braking is better with Cantis, much better with V brakes. Overall I prefer cantilever, for the versatility.
 
On Friday, June 28, 2024 at 7:14:51 AM UTC-4 saxt...@gmail.com wrote:
 
For sure, I was in the hunq camp, but I get why a slightly lighter weight option makes sense. I would have been happy with a SS Hillborne as canti's would have allowed for just a little bit more tire/fender clearance, I was still tempted when I saw that 650b was the wheel size for my size frame as that'd be different than what I have, but the LR brakes kill it for me.
 
On Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 9:51:07 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
 
It's clear lots of people wanted a single speed Appaloosa or a single speed Hunqapillar. It's natural for those people to be sad that Rivendell offered a single speed A. Homer Hilsen instead. Those who wanted a single speed A Homer Hilsen are presumably pleased.
 
Bill Lindsay
 
El Cerrito, CA
 
On Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 6:13:07 PM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:
 
Another Riv that excited me until the inexplicable change to sidepulls.
 
I think I know why Riv has done this twice now but damn it is annoying.
 
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Bill Lindsay <tape...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 02:57PM -0700

The OP anticipated a buying frenzy, but that clearly hasn't happened in
week 1 of the pre-sale. I hope that turns out to be a good thing, and
gives people the chance to really think about it and decide calmly rather
than panic-buying with a huge fear of missing out. Now that the real
Geo-Chart is out, the 54.5 Roaduno looks a lot better to me than the 54.5
Hilsen had looked. Still, if you wanted to give me one for free, the one
I'd pick would probably be a Silver 58 Complete.
 
Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
 
On Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 5:05:40 AM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:
 
Robert Calton <nca...@gmail.com>: Jun 29 01:59PM -0700

Purchased this for my new Homer build but I ended up with a Baggins bag
instead. The Brooks bag has never been ridden on the bike. Looks great on
saddle hooks or on handlebars.
 
Will come with the bag (of course), a Brooks drawstring bag, and a Brooks
branded wrench. Offering here first before posting elsewhere.
 
$90 shipped CONUS, get $35 off the price of a new one in essentially the
same condition[image: PXL_20240629_204952393.MP.jpg][image:
PXL_20240629_205009198.jpg][image: PXL_20240629_205026872.jpg].
Gary Johnson <mercia...@gmail.com>: Jun 28 12:13PM -0700

Let's face it, Clem is just a wonderful looking and riding bike. No weight
restrictions, no top tube, just one pretty lug and byzantine fork. R'dell
hit the mark squarely with this one.
 
Here is my (over)decorated Clem.
 
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