Sweating through the Winter

[Eric Marth]

Hello friends — When you ride in the winter, do you sweat? 

I'm in Virginia and we experience a real winter. Certainly colder in other places! I sweat like a demon no matter how cold it gets. If I go on a 15 mile ride and it's 28º outside my cap gets wet with sweat and my back gets clammy and damp. I think I'm an unusually sweaty person. Getting wet makes going on longer rides quite unappealing and uncomfortable.  

If you're a person who gets real sweaty on winter rides, how do you manage? 

I don't think I'm overdressed, but I haven't tried riding in just a wool tee shirt and tights. That just seems too far, I worry about too much skin exposure and damage. When I start rides on cold days (in the 20s or 30s) my face stings and I want to go back home but I always warm up. 

Here's a breakdown of what I wear:

• Bryne string vest (not pictured). I read about string vests in Alfred Lansing's book Endurance about the Shackleton expedition to the south pole, where all the crew were stranded on the ice. The explorers wore knit string vests as insulating layers. The idea is they provide insulation and a vapor barrier to allow moisture to escape. Certainly has been helpful for me but I'm still damp. I'm trying to create a barrier between the base and outer layers so the out layer doesn't get plastered to my back with sweat. 
• 100% merino polo shirt, made in Italy. Secondhand, cheap. Lightweight. They come in really nice colors. 
• Canari vest. For starting out, gets packed when I've warmed up, comes out if I stop or get cold
• Vintage Sergal 100% tights with leather chamois. Wear them with suspenders that go over the string vest and under the merino polo. 
• DeFeet Woolie Boolie socks. My fave, wear em all year on and off the bike! 
• Randi Jo tropical wool hat. Very lightweight. Yep, gets soaked with sweat. 
• DeFeet Duragloves. These are awesome gloves. 
• Allen Edmonds Mitchell shoes. Relatively stiff soles, like a Samba, look a bit like a traditional cycling shoe and they come in those WIDEEE sizes I need for my big feet. I wear a 12 EEE in these. 

I'm considering keeping to shorter rides and maybe even setting up a trainer in my shop. I don't mind getting sweaty out there if I can come inside and regulate! 

Thanks as always for sharing your feedback and experiences! 

Cheers,
Eric 

[Jonathan Carmack]

Yeah I definitely sweat, I commuted yesterday in Northern VA and even though it was 15F I still had some sweat.  I think for me it’s always that first 20 minutes are the worst, and a pop off vest or jacket is good for that.  Oddly I find that anything that is a wind blocker is basically the worst idea if going for a long one, has I tend to baste in there and then once you are damp it gets legitimately dangerous.

I don’t have a good answer, other than being able to ventilate is key regardless of temps, but once it gets below 10 degrees I find nothing really keeps you warm without “deep winter” options and I’m just not buying that stuff.

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[Josiah Anderson]

I definitely do sweat on winter rides too. Looking at your current layering, I suspect removing the vest and/or the hat would be helpful. I normally just ride in layers of long sleeve wool jerseys or sweaters, and only use a vest for long descents or urban riding. And I almost never use a hat unless it's far below the 28F you mention. My usual winter riding pants are either tights or medium weight wool dress pants. A rule I go by is that if I feel warm as soon as I walk out of the house, I'm overdressed for riding (or skiing, etc). It should take a few minutes of activity to get up to temperature. 

Josiah Anderson 

Tacoma WA 

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[Guy Jett]

TL:Dr

Suggestions base on my experience:

• Consider a light windbreaker with a full zipper (in addition to the vest).  This may be overkill for your warmer temperatures;
• A shirt you can fully unbutton or unzip.  The polo doesn't allow for enough ventilation.

I first encountered "string base layers" some 54 years ago.  Mine were from Eddie Bauer.  These were a cotton knit and have worked wonderfully all these years.  But I am down to my last two short-sleeved shirts having worn out two bottoms and three other tops.  Unfortunately, until now, I have not been able to source anything similar other than some with a nylon fabric and lots of flat panels.  So THANK YOU for including the link to Byrne USA!  (Alas, I couldn't get a response from Bryne in Sweden.)  While we all know that "cotton kills" in low temperatures I found tiny bits of fabric in actual contact with your skin does NOT drain heat away.  All the warmth is present in the honeycomb between the actual fabric.

While living in Laramie, WY in the '80's I would ride short commutes around town in weather down to -35F.  In this case rather little exertion but heavily dressed.  My coldest weather clothing:

• Feet:
• A thin pair of socks over my feet;
• A pair of medium to heavy wool-blend socks for warmth;
•  A pair of L.L. Bean boots with a wool insole.
• Bottoms:
•    A string base layer;
• Flannel-lined chinos over - these may or may not be tucked into the boots;
• Wind pants of below -10.
• Top:
•  A string base layer;
• Any kind of shirt as appropriate for the workplace;
•  A very heavy Eddie Bauer down jacket over (Karakorum line rated to -40.  A gift to me in 1966, this jacket still in use by my son in Bozeman, MT.);
• Hands, neck, and head:
•  Heavy ski gloves (marginal when below -10);
• Knit scarf around neck doubled in back all tucked into the jacket;
•  A knit wool cap or balaklava tucked into the scarf in back;
•  Ski goggles with the cap pulled down over the top and the scarf pulled up over the bottom.

The net result was that no skin was exposed.

Given that, I have worked outdoors in temperatures down to about 10 with string tops.  And, yes, would start to get sweaty.  The key to staying comfortable is aggressive ventilation.  As soon I a began to feel any moisture I would begin to vent.  

• Begin to progressively unzip jacket or windbreaker before taking it off;
• Begin to progressively unbutton shirt;*  Final step, especially if no wind, take off the shirt leaving only the string base layer.

Re. The Shackleton expedition:  I have read the same book.  The one line that stood out to me was that, after the crew spent such a long time on Elephant Island their only complaint was how uncomfortable they were whenever the temperature rose above freezing!

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[Ben Miller]

That actually sounds like a pretty good setup Eric!

I live in SF, so don't really ride in true cold, winter weather. But have a lifetime of enjoying exercise in cold weather, particularly backcountry ski touring and winter camping*. Here are a few of my observations:

• Humans are always going to sweat during exercise no matter the ambient temperature they are in. Just like exercise in hot weather, the goal should be to reach a steady state, although here it should be focused on a steady state of moisture generation and water vapor elimination. As Jonathan mentioned, ventilation is key.
• The harder you exercise, the more you will sweat. Try to eliminate or limit high intensity exercise for long term endurance in cold weather. (If you think in terms of heart rate zones, try to stay in zone 1&2)
• In terms of fabrics/materials, "moisture wicking" or similar terms are pretty much a mis-nomer. All fabric fibers wick moisture away and wool doesn't really have any special properties or advantages here in that regards (though some weaves are better than others). The thing that wool and to a lesser extent modern synthetic fibers have over cotton is that they still have positive insulation values even when wet. Cotton is the opposite.
• Getting back to this idea of steady state: try to keep the exercise even and regular in intensity and figure out the correct layering that will keep you comfortable in that zone. A good rule of thumb is dressing like its 10-15 warmer than the actual ambient temp. If you aren't chilly at the start you are over-dressed. 
• If you need to be warm at the start of the ride to be motivated to get out and get going (totally understandable!), dress in enough layers to be comfortable standing outside at the start of the ride, but almost immediately (within say 5-10 mins of starting exercise) remove layers to get to the state mentioned above.
• Personally, I find hats of any kind to be counter productive in regulating moisture while exercising in cold weather. They are the first thing to go.
• Then just focus on getting ventilation to core: things like vests, front zips, and pit zippers on full jackets help. 
• The confounding variable is wind: cycling generates it's own wind and as we all intuitively know wind chill factor is greater the colder it is. It's a balancing act of maintaining core temperatures whilst also allowing for water vapor removal. Things like "wind breaker" vest do a lot to limit wind chill while also maintaining ventilation. 
• In very cold weather, down vests are something close to magical: They can have extremely high insulation rating, while allowing for high rates of evaporation. However their performance against wind or when saturated is extremely poor. But if you finding it difficult to stay warm, but also require too many layers to maintain proper ventilation, check out a quality down vest. 
• Finally, and perhaps most importantly! If you stop exercising in cold weather (take a break for coffee outside or really stop for whatever reason), IMMEDIATELY put layers back on. Don't wait til your cold to do this. Hats are perfect for this, as well as the aforementioned down vest or even down jacket. 

Eric, it sounds like you know/are doing most of that. In terms of what I think you could do differently: I'd start with ditching the hat and gloves. If you really want to wear gloves, at least go with something alot less insulating like plain, unlined leather gloves. I, for one, when ski touring rarely wear an insulating hat unless it is extremely cold (well below 0F, but will wear a well ventilated hat for sun protection as necessary) and only gloves for protection against direct contact with the snow. And I really can not stress the importance of last point enough. Guides and experts on ski tours will tell you the first thing to do when taking even the smallest of break is to puts layers back on for the duration of the break and remove them as the last thing before starting again. For me, that means keeping a down jacket at the top of my pack. But for cycling in more moderately cold temps, that might mean just putting on a wool beanie. 

*Me and some friends got into winter camping at a young age growing up in VT, after reading various accounts from the Golden Age of Arctic Exploration, one of them being Lansing's Endurance. I have successfully winter camped without a tent and in a homemade wool & down sleeping bag down to temperatures of -40. We dream of going to South Georgia Island someday and retracing Shackleton, Crean, and Worsley's trek. One the highlights for me on last year's trip to Australia was visiting the replica of Mawson's Antarctic hut in Hobart and Hadley's Orient Hotel where Amundsen was famously almost turned away from after returning from his historic 1911 journey to the South pole. 

[Tom Wyland]

I'm also in Northern VA (where are you, Eric?) and I had sweat, particularly on my head, on the 17-degree commute this week.  I find that the weave of my outer layer has to be open enough to allow wind to pass through and 1) cool me off a bit and 2) move out warm air next to my skin.  I typically just wear long underwear, a heavy shirt or sweater, and a vest.  I've been liking a "hardface grid fleece" outer layer that is wind resistant-ish but still breathes well.  I once got advice from a winter bike commuter to use sweaters of various weave densities to help manage moisture/temperature.  I just don't have that many sweaters.

For me it's the trouble spots - nose, ears, feet, hands - that I need to worry about. If those are cold I'm miserable no matter if my core is too warm or not.

I also find that I sweat most when I stop (for red light or office arrival), because the cooling wind stops and my body doesn't get rid of heat fast enough.

Tom

Reston, VA

[Brian Turner]

I’m in central Kentucky, so same climate as you. I also sweat like a pig on all rides throughout the year. In winter, I wear a wool t-shirt with a thick wool LS flannel over top. Then, a lightweight wind proof layer, like a gilet or super light jacket over top. That keeps my core regulated. Rarely do I double up on my bottom layer. For my head, I just use a lightweight wool cycling cap under my helmet. It has to get into the teens before I’ll use a neck gaiter or something to pull up over my face. For hands, I’ll either use an insulated deerskin work glove, or a lightweight wool cycling glove like the Giro D-Wool.

Brian
Lexington Ky

[Patrick Moore]

I had 6” long pit zips added to an often-used winter riding jacket; they make a huge difference in its versatility. Start out all zipped up, and as you get hot, unzip collar, then the pits. Much more versatile and easy to regulate than zip-off sleeves, IMO.

Must do that to 2 cycling windbreakers, or perhaps just have a flap cut into the upper backs.

[Bernard Duhon]

I double indoors pit zips. I have a very old Louis. Garneau Jacket I refuse to give away even though the waterproofing is long gone.

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From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2025 6:44:39 PM
To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [RBW] Sweating through the Winter

 

I had 6” long pit zips added to an often-used winter riding jacket; they make a huge difference in its versatility. Start out all zipped up, and as you get hot, unzip collar, then the pits. Much more versatile and easy to regulate than zip-off sleeves, IMO.

Must do that to 2 cycling windbreakers, or perhaps just have a flap cut into the upper backs.

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[Bernard Duhon]

Oops hit the send button too fast. It has 10 inch pit zips, front zipper pockets and a big rear zipper pocket. It virtually turns into a vest when you’re all unzipped In addition, it has a double zipper that zips up from the bottom which I’ve always found the most useful feature in both vest and active jackets. 

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From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Bernard Duhon <ber...@bernardduhon.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2025 7:16:06 PM

To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [RBW] Sweating through the Winter

I double indoors pit zips. I have a very old Louis. Garneau Jacket I refuse to give away even though the waterproofing is long gone.

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From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2025 6:44:39 PM
To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [RBW] Sweating through the Winter

 

I had 6” long pit zips added to an often-used winter riding jacket; they make a huge difference in its versatility. Start out all zipped up, and as you get hot, unzip collar, then the pits. Much more versatile and easy to regulate than zip-off sleeves, IMO.

Must do that to 2 cycling windbreakers, or perhaps just have a flap cut into the upper backs.

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[Will Boericke]

For me, it's all about breathability.  I can be warm at 30 degrees for an hour and a half, but if I'm going out for 3 hours, I need to think about it differently.  Completely windproof layers often don't work for me, for that reason.  They keep me warm for a while, but then I get damp, and then I'm cold anyway.  I have a couple iterations of riding jackets with strategically placed wind-resistant but breathable material and these are the best outer layers, with varying inner layers.  My body is happiest with fewer layers on the trunk and more on the extremities - I often wear a pair of arm warmers under the jacket.  Close-fitting layers do a better job of moving moisture and keeping me comfy, but I think my riding wardrobe looks fairly different than what others are describing.

Will

[Pam Bikes]

I generally sweat too.  And I tend to overdress.  The degree of warmth is dependent on how long you'll be riding and how warm (sweaty) you're willing to get.  Wool is best since it's still warm when wet.  The back sweat is the worst so I wear something  like a down lobster bib.  It's warm on the front and blocks the wind but the back is open for breathability so the back sweat evaporates.  For a 20 mile or 2 hr ride w/a pit stop in the middle to pick something up I need to be able to shed some layers for the few minutes I dart inside.  So modular dressing works best for me.  I cover my ears w/a running sweatband in the 40s.  For the 30s I use the Pinebury Merino back gaiter worn as a cap under my helmet, short sleeve cashmere sweater, lightest jacket if in the 30s or not if in the 40s.  2 prs of arm warmers - wool.  I like the mens Defeet leg warmers b/c they are larger and easier to put on over a jacket and I can pull them down gloved while riding if I'm hot.  I have another pair of alpaca arm or leg warmers over those w/the down lobster bib (Enlightened Equipment Minion).  Pants w/1 or 2 pr of leg warmers.  I can pull those down when I go inside.  Same socks as you.  Possum neck gaiter.  Shearling gloves or mittens (warmer for the 30s but harder to brake).  The key for me is to layer the arms and have less on the core and even less on the back.  I'm going to try out a compression sack to store everything and to prevent losing anything b/c this is a lot of pieces.  I put my gloves in my pockets to make sure I don't lose them.  I'll be chilly in the first mile then will be very waem especially if it's sunny.  Less so at night.

[Ted Durant]

On Wednesday, December 10, 2025 at 9:52:57 AM UTC-6 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

If you're a person who gets real sweaty on winter rides, how do you manage?

 This is a topic near and dear to me, living in SE Wisconsin. As a commuter, taking a shower at work in the morning, with a ~35-40 minute ride, I never worried a lot about it, and tended to overdress. When I did an R12, riding a 200k each month through the winter, I discovered that overdressing is a real problem. Looking at what some of the "influencers" on social media tend to wear, I realized just how overdressed I was.  It also helped to read about Velocio climbing the Alps bare chested on sunny days in the winter.

Like others, my clothing choice depends on how long I plan to be out. It also depends on, in addition to temperature, whether there is wind and/or moisture. Though, realistically, if there is cold, wind, and wet, I'm probably not riding outside. I have always been an advocate of wool, but I find that all my wool base layers quickly get wet and stay wet. Even my wool Brynje fishnet shirt seems to really hang on to the moisture. I also have a Brynje synthetic fishnet and will go for that if I'm planning to be out for a while. If it's not too windy, then just a ls wool jersey on that is good to pretty cold temps. If there's some wind, I might add a wind vest. Or, my Supplex jacket over a good base layer. For base layers, I have a few synthetic ones that I've picked up, from Pearl Izumi and I forget what else, that are surprisingly warm. The Pearl Izumi one, in particular, is shockingly warm just by itself, and doesn't seem to hang on to the moisture too much.  For my legs, it's similar, though the base is always wool and usually either it's just the wool or some wind-blocking knickers. I have some light XC ski pants that I use on cold, windy rides, that are very nice. For many years my standard outer top was a wool jacket with a wind-blocking front. As noted, that helps keep the back from getting too sweaty, but I find the zipper front to be awkward. A light vest with mesh on the back serves the same purpose for me, and it has the added bonus of being easy to stash in the handlebar bag if I decide I'm getting too warm.

That last point might be the most important. I remember, probably in something Grant wrote, about eskimo who would be constantly removing and then putting back on their seal coats as they worked, managing their body temps and sweat. It is so helpful to be able to remove layers while riding, then have them available to put back on when you stop or slow down or the conditions change. Keep your base layer from getting wet and you're way ahead on staying comfortable. 

Also, don't overlook the choice of headwear. Something that feels cozy for 15 minutes in the cold is probably too warm for a longer ride. Likewise, hands and feet. I generally find that my hands and head should feel chilly at the beginning of a ride. Otherwise, as my body temp goes up from the effort, my hat and gloves very quickly get soaked. I only wear a wool beanie below 40, and I use a couple of layers for gloves so I can adjust as needed. Also, below freezing I use a lycra neck gator that I can pull over my chin if needed. For really cold weather, I have a wool balaclava, but haven't needed that the last few winters.

Lastly ... important advice I read somewhere ... 3 layers, base, insulation, outer. Base needs to stay dry, insulation needs to stay functional, and outer is to protect from wind and moisture without keeping moisture inside. I find I don't need all three layers until it is really cold. Cold enough that, now that I'm on the wrong side of 60, I find excuses not to ride. So, it's either base and shell or base and insulation most of the time, with the shell often just being a vest.

Okay, this was way too long - Eric, the outfit you picture would work for me for mid-20's, dry, and not too windy, at a moderate effort. The vest would come off pretty quickly. +1 on Woolie Boolies.  

Ted Durant

Milwaukee, WI USA

[Zachary Cannon]

I'm going to put in a blasphemic nod to synthetics for heavy winter sweaters (people not items of clothing).

I love wool for most winter riding, hiking and running as long as its fairly steady state. I can usually dress to limit my sweat (excect for me feet, which poses a real challenge for which vapor barrier socks have helped). This complements wools absorption of moisture into the center of the fabric as I understand it.

When I'm doing a high intensity activity like winter single speeding, I can wet out wool, however, resulting in discomfort and cold on the oscillating descents.

My number one fitness partner (and wife) sweats alot from her back no matter the temperature. The result was that wool left her cold while it worked great for me in the same conditions. She'd overwhelm wool's ability to absorb and end up freezing at breaks or on downhills.

I leaned into synthetic or hybrid synthetic wicking layers for her (I do all the shopping in the family) and it's been a revelation. Here is what we've arrived at as her absolute favorite combination:
She uses either a defeet or Pearl Izumi base layer that's super hydrophobic to create a dry layer. This helps even with full merino on top.
Her next favorite layer in Patagonia Capilene Air, which is a merino/poly blend.
On top of that she uses a Patagonia Nano Air or Nano Air vest or jacket depending on the temperature.
She likes Ibex wool blend knickers with wool knee high socks or synthetic Rapha insulated tights on the bottom.

This combo has transformed her from being wet and miserable on our longer (1000'-2000') bike descents in winter and immediately after trail runs.

Before you discard her experience as unbobly, I'll note that she wears this on an one of her older metal bikes with one inch steerer and vintage Suntour end shifters.

Best, Zach in ABQ (where the dry climate with its lack of ice allows for lots of cold weather riding)

[Zachary Cannon]

As to cold toes... I'm riding the White Rim trail over two days this weekend some friends. It's actually supposed to be quite unseasonably warm (30ish-50ish both days) , but I'm still going to try thin waterproof socks under my wool socks in order to keep my toes warm. My feet sweat with any exertion. Playing basketball when young I'd sweat through not just my socks but my shoes even in winter, even when I started changing socks every hour. 

The strange seem on my vapor barrier socks make me hesitant to wear them for the planned long days, so I've give thin waterproof "breathable socks" a try. They feel solid against the skin and my experience with waterproof socks is they don't breath once their in a shoe let alone a Lake insulated leather boot. In this case, that means my outer wool sock and boot should stay dryer and warmer. Fingers crossed. 

Best, Zach in ABQ

[ascpgh]

I definitely sweat when I ride, too. Dressing to account for variation in effort and headway also requires consideration of duration,  including the growing effects of fatigue and decreasing angle of light over the hours. 

I am a vent to the limits of precipitation person like Ted describes. The big reason is condensation. Our bodies are making lots of heat at nearly 100°F, and air at that temperature carries a lot of moisture in vapor form, which condenses as the temperature drops; as in the layers of your kit, incremetally distal from your skin. 

On my last overnight out-and-back on the GAP last month, I facedunexpected rain for the entire ride home. What I had for this was a merino T-shirt, a merino LS shirt, a nicely dense LS wool knit jersey (a purchase from another BoB who got it at Alex Singer in Paris), and my Ventile anorak. I had regular bib shorts with PI "Amphib" tights over them on the bottom. I had PI shoe covers over my Sidis and Gore-Tex shell mittens over my trusty old Army wool glove liners. Merino beanie under my helmet, without an outer cover.

Not ideal prep for the ride; I wouldn't have chosen riding for 10-11 hours in the rain, but I learned a few things:

1. "Waterproof" is a measure of time. 
2. My head made enough heat to drive water away from my skin and eliminate conductive heat loss, but a helmet cover would have lowered the volume of water running off my head, down my neck. Tried to find a shower cap at a few stops. 
3. My feet produced vapor that condensed under the shoe covers, requiring sock changes (wet ones near armpits, under the shell). 
4. Layers of wool on my upper body kept me warm despite water leaking down my neck; it ran down my arms and into my gloves.
5. My shell mitts filled with liquid water that ran comfortably down my arms inside my shell, which I poured out about every 10 miles, and wrung the wool gloves, returning them to basic function.
6. An adequate shell for this endeavor would be made like a kayak paddling jacket: gaskets at the neck and cuffs. 
   

My day was in mostly natural materials. The shell mitts, shoe covers, and panelled tights being the exceptions; only the tights performed as-is without remedial action to sustain their function on a long wet day:

 

Whitsett, PA. Noon. 50 miles to go. Zoom in on those wet gloves dripping from the table top to the bench and ground below after pouring water out of the shells, before I wrung them. That spigot is off for winter; that's rain accumulating where drainage was planned. 

Andy Cheatham

Pittsburgh