The Bosco Bulls were fantastic on the descent--much more so than other bars, including drops set kind of high and the straight bars on a Trek 990, which made me feel like I could be pitched over, and also left me with "pumped" forearm muscles--ouchy.
You can see the bars on the early 90s Trek are pretty
much level with the seat, but the reach and geometry still had me
leaning on them too much during descending. (My understanding is that current
mountain bike geos are different and this is not as much of a factor.)
Based on this I was slightly dreading the return trip down. But it was the easiest time I've ever had in that direction on rough trail. The Boscos were completely natural and neutral and I felt totally in
control and comfortable going with gravity. Whoo-hoo, as they say!
I thought maybe I would feel
cramped on the steeper parts heading up, but not at all. As
far as hands slipping, the only slipping was from a prodigious amount of
sweat on the way up--those plastic grips can get schuper schweaty--way
more that riding the naked noodles on my Kuwahara. But even there, the
pointer finger hooked around the brake bracket solves that issue!
I agree, Bob. As with most Rivendell bicycles, the Clem(entine) is an all around rider--despite its more cruiser-y, convivial appearance.
Thanks to all for reading and checking out the photos.
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Re: How much is too much bb drop?
When I was building for Rivendell, Grant wanted to experiment with how low we could go. I built some frames with increasingly lower bb's. Crank length is one consideration but it's less critical than one might think. The bigger consideration is the angle between the seat tube and chain stays. With a laid back seat tube angle like 72 and more than 80mm (say 85+) of bb drop, the front der doesn't work effectively and sometimes the cage hits the chain stays. I like building road bikes around 80mm of bb drop but won't go lower than that. Curt GoodrichOkay, that's it from me on the bb and cs of Clems! But a video of a Clem curb hop, coming this way!!