Wide-fitting Nitto M1-B rack on my Appaloosa

[Ian Buckley]

Hey folks,

I took the rack off another bike, but it seems quite wide for my Appaloosa which is strange because I think it was designed for it. Has anyone had this same experience?

When the arms aren't bolted down, there are gaps about 3/16" wide on both sides between the arms and the fork. This hasn't stopped me from bolting them on and loading the rack, but it makes me a bit anxious to put so much pressure on the bolts. 

Excuse the bad photo and my dirty bike. Red circles to highlight the gaps.

Ian in Victoria

[Joe Bernard]

There's several things going on here that could alleviate the issue somewhat.

The pics at rivbike show the arms swapped around at the fork eyelet. The shorter rod pointing straight down will have a steeper angle so you want the longer/forward arm to mount first, then the short one on the outside. Also you can spin the rods around so the flat side is facing the fork instead of concave, this will set the arms slightly further away from the fork. Does that make sense? 

Originally this rack used a tongue to mount under caliper brakes at the fork and only had the longer forward arms. My (vague) memory is I mounted the top of the rods (after cutting) inside the top of the rack and flush with it. They don't have to mount on the outside. 

Joe Bernard 

[Garth]

It just so happens that presta valve lock nuts can be used as threaded spacers on any M5 threadling, be it rack bolts or water bottle cages. I've used them for both. You may need longer M5 bolts depending on how long the ones used are to begin with. 

The stays can be bent to fit better. Do this is pairs, off the bike.

Also, try attaching the bottom rack stay bolts first, then the top sides of the rack and see if there is a difference in how the stays all conform to the angle. 

The rods can also be attached from the in-side, rather than the outer. The hardware is completely reversable. 

All in all there are many ways to secure the rack. 

[Ben R]

okay so funny I saw this post as I just put a marks rack on my Sussie.

I had the same problem but it was fine.

I had to loosen the strut nuts on the rack but not too much or it will be annoying and fall out as you're trying to get it adjusted.

when I ran the struts to the mid fork drop out had space. I got longer m5 hardware and ran a few washers as well

I went m5 head, washer, strut 1, washer, strut 2 then drop out. 

I did onside first and only got the bold in like 3/4 of the way then did the other side to get it in.  it will be a little tricky on he second side.  its semi I pain trying to triangulate the struts and get it in the drop out but once you're in it should be fine. I did run some "removable" loctite on the screws as well.  I plan on not removing the rack.

when I mounted my pass n stow I had maybe a half inch on either side sticking over. way more then I did on my marks rack so I will go ahead and say is fine, but its kind of a pain in the ass dealing with the play and then trying to triangulate the struts. 

[Ian Buckley]

Thanks for all of the suggestions and ideas, folks!

Switching the arm order like Joe suggested made it a lot easier to mount the arms and likely reduced the stress on the bolt. I also added some washers like Ben suggested and that probably reduced the stress as well. I'd love to try the lock nut trick you mentioned, Garth, but I didn't have any handy. I'll keep it in mind for future applications.