Has anyone found a way to get latex sealant out of fabric?

[Patrick Moore]

My black knickers are bespattered with white Orange Seal where the rear tire kicked it up nastily; it also speckled the Sackville bag.

Has anyone found a good method for removing such splatter? I tried a stiff brush with stain-removing soap and with rubbing alcohol (latter dissolves it on hard surfaces) but with no luck.

Thanks.

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Patrick Moore

Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[Garth]

No experience but Silca tends to make products that work. https://silca.cc/products/ultimate-sealant-remover

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, Garth, and now I seem to recall raising this same question last year, perhaps that was for splatter on hard surfaces, though. At any rate, I did buy some and will not ask this question again for at least another year.

Seriously, thank you.

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[Garth]

Your welcome Patrick. I'm sure there are lots of people riding around with dried latex spatter on their clothing so you'd figure somebody had to some up with a way to remove it. 

[Tim]

Although I still have one bike with a tubeless setup, one great thing about being back in KC after seven years in the Tucson desert is having my other bikes set up without that nonsense. I fought the goatheads there for the first 18 months before acquiescing to tubeless, and they made my bike life exponentially better down there, they're pretty unnecessary here. As far as removing it, my clothes, bike and body all have quite a little bit of beausage so I can't help you there :-)

[Patrick Moore]

Yes, sealant, even the best of them, is just nasty, nasty stuff, and I curse it every time I have to futz with a slow leak, let alone a roadside flat.

I’d been wrestling in prayer for a week or so with a slow leak in the RH 559/584 30-48 mm TPU on the front of the Matthews IGH fixed road bike (I put a light butyl on the bolt-on back wheel to avoid the hassle of roadside rear flats), but it sealed, and yesterday I pulled it off the hook with ~30 psi in front, 5 psi too low, and pumped it harder. The valve had been sealant-gummed for weeks on end, so I decided finally just to replace the core. Removed core, and for some reason the damned valve core kept vomiting OS even as the pressure diminished, leaving me flailing with rags and cussing about the e**ing* mess on floor, rim, tire, spokes, hub, turning a 3 minute job into a 12 minute one.

Still and all, the sealant held, and the new core made pumping much easier.

Man, if I had to fix only 1 puncture a week I’d ditch sealant. Note that most of my sealant problems involve the valve.

* “Edi[t]ing."

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[Patrick Moore]

I meant “stem."

On Thu, May 7, 2026 at 1:11 PM Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com> wrote:

…  and for some reason the damned valve core kept vomiting OS 

[Patrick Moore]

Kneel down and give thanks that you now live and ride where sealants are not needed. I did have a very nice 20+ mile fixed ride today, stubbornly pushing the 75” gear against gusty winds, and the added ~2 fl oz of OS regular in the rear RH TPU tube did slow the persistent very slow leak down to the point where I had to stop only 1x to rebuild air pressure (and, to be honest, I could probably have made it home without pumping).

BUT!!!

I added ~2 fl oz of OS regular into the rear TPU tube before the ride, which involved:

Replacing a gummed-up valve core (which I cleared by soaking the core in rubbing alcohol and furiously rubbing with a rag;

Cleaning up after the core-less valve stem kept burping quantities of sealant over the rim, spokes, frame, and floor;

Pumping the tire with newly replenished sealant up to 60 psi (559 x 28 mm actual RH 32 {labeled} Elk Pass), only to have the valve spit the now-replenished sealant back up into the chuck, and, when chuck removed, spitefully vomiting it one more time over everything in an unstoppable flow. I resorted to filling a water bottle with clean water and washing down the mess, leaving a puddle on my garage floor.

Once again, most — not all by any means, but most — of the effing hassle of sealant in tubes comes from the valves (Presta). No matter what you do, OS gums them up, which makes adding air hard to do; then when you replace the core, the film hardened across the tube-to-valve stem interface still resists easy air entry; and when you puncture this film — not at all always easy — the valve spitefully spits sealant back at you, the spokes, rim, tire, frame, and floor.

The only things worse than using modern sealants are: riding stiff, sluggish tires, and: fixing 150 punctures per year.

What I’ve learned: OS regular formula works pretty well with TPU tubes, but not quite as well as with butyl tubes. And, one more thing: I’ve had sealant problems with RH 559 x 30mm — 48 mm TPU tubes, but not at all with the 622 X whatever range RH TPU tubes I use on the Roadeo under 32 mm Stampede Pass extralights. Odd.

Lastly, the OS Endurance in my tubeless Schwalbe 54 mm actual extralight Thunderburts is generally more benign, except when you get a larger puncture, when it will spray itself all over bike and rider; and it inevitably gums up the valves and, lastly, dries and collects as a weight-adding skin inside the tire casing.

On Thu, May 7, 2026 at 8:46 AM 'Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote: