Roadini handlebar ideas

[tc]

For obvious reasons, it makes sense that most Roadinis will have traditional drops.  I have a  46 Noodle on mine, the idea being that the Roadini is my dedicated go-fast bike for 10-40 milers.  I like the various hand positions a drop affords for the longer trips.

However...I'm finding myself not riding the Roadini as much lately because,  frankly,  the Noodles aren't as comfortable for me.  This saddens me greatly.  I'm not doing as many 'training' rides, for which the Roadini served me well.  I find that, if I don't to longish rides often, drops are harder to like.  I do stretch regularly, but I think the culprit is the lack of longer stints in the saddle. 

Until I get to a point where I can do more, and longer, training rides, I would like to look forward to riding the Roadini, and that means different bars for now.  I have the Ahearne+Map bar on my Homer and Atlantis, and it's great, so that's an option.  I'd try the Riv/Nitto Wavie bar, but who knows when they'll be available.  Really interested in similar bars others may have tried.

I do not like bars that put me in a bolt upright, sit-up-and-beg position.

So far I've seen the Bullmoose and the Alabastache bar on Roadinis owned by Bunch contributors.  If you have found yet a different bar that works for you, please share and provide a pic or two!

Thanks,

Tom

[eddietheflay]

in what way are you uncomfortable? hands, shoulders, what? Noodles have quite the drop, so maybe you can't reach the bar in that position. Maybe you need more height?

Maybe you need Jones Loop Hbars? Of course that probably means some different parts, but could be the ticket:

http://biketouringnews.com/components-touring-bicycles/cockpit/touring-bike-handlebars/h-bar-setup-guide/

[Bob Lovejoy]

Tom,

I use MAP/Ahearne's on another bike, have used Nitto Bullmoose bars, and am also interested in the Wavie bars once they're available.

That said, one of the adjustments I made this last year was raising my drop bar config up some and that change made an incredible difference.  I had hurt my left arm the year before and my normal bar height (slightly below saddle) was just too uncomfortable.  With that, I raised the bar height maybe 2-3cm (so bars a little above saddle) and it did indeed take some pressure off the injured arm.  What surprised me though was that now I felt so much more comfortable overall, and it felt a lot more natural to use the drops (here in the Illinois wind) which I seldom did before. 

Anyway, if possible, and before changing too much, I would suggest playing with bar height to see if it makes a difference.  It's easy (assuming a long enough stem), quickly reversible, and if it does not work well enough, no harm and no cost in the trying.

Best of luck in the looking and the testing,

Bob

[stevef]

I used Noodles on all my road bikes for years but lately I find I have a strong preference for "compact," drop bars.  Shorter reach, shallower drop works better for my aging back/neck.  The Soma HWY1 is a good option to try.

[Clayton.sf]

for the past year Inahve really come to prefer salsa cowchipper bars over noodles or compass rando bars. With the right levers they are most excellent. all personal preference though..

clayton scott
hbg, CA

[lconley]

I have been riding drop bars since 1970. I have tried a lot of different handlebars over the past few years and always come back to the drops (traditional Maes bend on the Frank, Noodles on the Sam and Compass Randonneurs on the Bombadil) for any bike used for distance, but now they are two inches above the seat instead of two inches below, so it is all about the height and reach of the stem, not the bars themselves. The advantage is all of the different hand positions available on drop bars and the height compensates for the age. I am getting used to the odd look of high drops. I am going to give Jones Loops a try on the Crust Scapegoat however.

Laing

Cocoa, FL

On Thursday, January 24, 2019 at 9:22:49 PM UTC-5, tc wrote:

[eddietheflay]

My current Jones experiment. Been riding with FSA carbon compact bars at a couple of cm above saddle height. I also ride the biggest bikes I can and all 3 have tall tall headtubes. This combo has been delightful for a long time. This setup allows for easy cruising and easily getting into the drops anytime. The reason for trying Jones was that I am old and my hands hurt where my thumbs meet my wrists. As of today, the Jones are now pretty well dialed in. I am running a full 10 spd. Tiagra 4700 triple drivetrain with thumb shifters from that group and GS rear derailleur rated to handle up to 32 tooth cog. I am running it with 11-34 with zero issues and the group is really snicky and clicky. I like it.

I ran my carbon drops with a 12cm +10 stem. On Jones, after trial and error over 100 miles, I am now running 10cm +17. I am also using Ergon GC1 grips for swept back bars. I am comfy upright on the grips but find myself riding much more with my wrists on the intersection where the front loop meets the rearward bar. In this position, I am leant over sorta like being on the hoods of drops and the soft part of my palm supported by the loop intersection. Really easy to go back and forth between grips and leant over position. Just getting the Ergons installed at the right angle for the most comfort has taken many small tuning angle adjustments.

Should say Jeff Jones swears at using Ergons and swears by his own silicone grips.  I tried those and with my hand issues found them to be worthless. Ergon are like pillows...relatively speaking. So much more support for my precious paws. Also I am experimenting with how the heck to tape the bars. I know I need at least two layers of my favorite Deda cushiony tape.

When descending on the Jones I felt a little shaky trying to brake in the upright position that is required by flat bar brake levers mounted in the normal placement near the grips. My next experiment will be to try these flat bar brake levers mounted on the front of the loop ala moustache bars. How do you get brake levers with non-hinged clamps mounted on the 22.2 closed front loop? These?

https://porkchopbmx.com/dia-compe-tech-77-locking-bmx-freestyle-brake-levers-lever-set-silver/

On Thursday, January 24, 2019 at 6:22:49 PM UTC-8, tc wrote:

[nelscha...@gmail.com]

I found a NOS Nitto steel riser stem to bring the drops above the seat.  Makes the Noodles comfy for a 63 year old back...

[tc]

Thanks for the suggestions so far!

I have much experience wth Jones loops, having had them in 2 different bikes (a hardtail Specialized and a Clem). Love that bar, but can’t yet get my head around that bar on a Roadini. But the Jones Bend bar might look better - it does come in silver - and I’d need a new 31.8 stem.

Personally I’m not liking the look of a super high stem and drops. “Life’s too short to own an ugly boat - er, bike” :-)

Haven’t looked at cowchippers yet. I had a cowbell on my Vaya years ago. I did like the shallowness of the cowbell drops.

Will look at Soma highway 1, too.

Keep them ideas comin’.

Continuing to stretch and wishing for more and longer rides...

Tom

[Joe Bernard]

Here's my solution to a similar issue with my new Breezer Doppler. I didn't like the drops on it so I nabbed this kinda-like-a-Jones-Bend bar from Sycip, the JJ Bar. You'll still have to get a 31.8 stem, but it uses road levers. I'm using brifters, bar-ends will fit but might be kind of an awkward angle.

As soon as I kick this death flu I'll get 'em wrapped and go for a ride for a stem reach report. I had already swapped a shorter one in for the drops, so may need to put the stock one back on.

[tc]

Surprised no one has mentioned Bullhorns.  Never had them, but like the Albastache (in a different way), they offer multiple hand positions for relaxed and aggressive riding, but the stretch to the aggressive position (at least the shorter-style bullhorns) isn't as much as a drop.  I've seen a ton of different brake/shifter combo's on bullhorns, too.  (Note I'm not against the Albastache; I actually have one ready to mount if I decide to go that direction ... just shopping around for different ideas at this point.)  

I'm still getting used to the look of them....but some actually look pretty cool.

Anyway, those of you that have experience with bullhorns, I'd love to hear your pro's and con's - thanks.

Tom

PS. Joe, I like that JJ bar, as well as its brother, the JJJ.  I wish whatbars.com had them to compare.  From the looks of the JJ, the 31.8 Riv Wavie will likely be a direct competitor.

Tom

[Joe Bernard]

Bullhorns. This is on a singlespeed using only brake interrupter levers. Also a new build so limited miles with it, but I like it. I originally intended to use road levers on the ends plus the interrupters, which may still happen. It depends on how fast my brain adapts to knowing there's no levers out there and stops grabbing air in the forward position.

[tc]

Yeah I hear you re: grabbing for brakes that aren’t there! I guess you just set it up depending on where on the bar you spend the most time. Thanks Joe....I do believe you’ve tried everything on every bike!

Tom

[Davin Dahl]

I'm with you on the drop bars making the Roadini tough to enjoy. I originally set up mine that way, buy wasn't loving the pinched hand position of hoods or the reach of the drops. I switched from an 8cm stem to a 12cm stem and the flipped Albatross. As you can see from the picture, I have them angled down (16 degrees) with all hand positions below the height of the saddle but much farther back than the drop bars. What I like about this bar is that I can change my hip angle from open (hands on end of bars) to more closed (thumbs hooked under bends farther forward). Just my two cents.

[tc]

Davin, thanks. I did that very thing (flipped Albatross) with a SimpleOne I used to own. As you pointed out, it’s importsnt to make the stem reach long enough so that you’re comfortable but not cramped, nor knocking your knees!

Tom

[tc]

I may have a Wavie bar’d Roadini in a little over a week. Bar arrives at the house Wednesday. Will do some ‘cipherin’ and comparin’ and go from there. First I’ll jack up that stem with the Noodles still mounted to see if I can stand the look of it ...

Tom

[Joe Bernard]

Tom, spoiler: You won't like the look. But jacked up Noodles feel GREAT!

[Ron Mc]

my favorite drop bar of all time is still Cinelli 64 - 

- still the dream bar, and just as comfortable on the drops as the hoods

[Bob Lovejoy]

And I would add that I found I did not need much adjustment to make a big difference... YMMV of course, and I don't disagree with needing and wanting a bike to look as well as ride how we want.  That said, it such an easy and inexpensive thing to try (assuming cabling will allow)... Plus you learn more about what might work better.

Bob

[Chip Martens]

Hey tc,

I've talked to Jeremy @ Sycip and the JJ and JJJ bars will be up soon. I talked to Will @ Riv and the Wavies should be up shortly as well!

[tc]

Thanks, Chip. I bought and mounted the Wavie on my Atlantis and love it. Still not sure what to do on the Roadini. I have an Albastache, and a 56 HT alum Albatross, and the Ahearne+Map that used to be on the Atlantis. Decisions, decisions!

Tom

[James Warren]

Tom,

Did you have a bar on the Atlantis before? If so, what was it, and upon switching to the Wavie, did you make a stem change?

Thank you,

Jim W.

On Sat, Feb 9, 2019 at 7:42 PM tc <tdc...@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks, Chip. I bought and mounted the Wavie on my Atlantis and love it. Still not sure what to do on the Roadini. I have an Albastache, and a 56 HT alum Albatross, and the Ahearne+Map that used to be on the Atlantis. Decisions, decisions!

Tom

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[tc]

Jim,
Before the Wavie I had a 610 Ahearne+Map bar on the Atlantis. I’m using the same stem, which has a 11cm reach I’m pretty sure.

Tom

[Ash]

This configuration is actually super practical!

Drop bars offer aggressive (corners), more aggressive (hoods) and super aggressive (drops) riding positions.  When I want to provide some relief to back and shoulders I had nowhere to go.

This solution gives you best of both worlds!  The corners when you want to push harder and the regular grip area when you want to relax, be able to look around and cruise.

[Chip Martens]

Has anyone else tried this method from Dan Stroud ( @hobocross on Instagram ) — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGokAt6XAi0

I didn't love the Salsa bars I had on my Wolverine and was looking for something more comfortable. I built WhatBars.com to help me figure out this problem, but it was only when Dan posted that video that I decided to go with the Soma Oxfords ( similar to the Albatross bars ).

I personally always found myself riding in the hoods or on the flats, but never truly being comfortable, especially at slower speeds, and switching my Wolverine up to this setup with the brake levers / grips as instructed has made a huge difference. In the "hoods" position, I still feel like I can "tuck down" if I'm trying to ride more swiftly.

[John McBurney]

I have Nitto bullhorns on my Bombadil. I’ve done a lot of road biking with drops and mountain biking with minimally swept back flat bars. I’d never ridden a swept back bar of any sort except for a test ride. 

It took a few minutes to adjust to the bullhorn bars but especially when combined with the Brooks B67 saddle it’s just a lovely relaxed position. I like it. I still like the position on my race bike but I totally get where the upright position works especially with a wider sprung saddle like the B67. 

John

[Chris Birkenmaier]

Been meaning to post to this discussion for quite some time. I have Albastache bars on mine and really like them a lot. This has become my “go fast” bike. It puts me in a more athletic position than my other bikes and that coupled with the relatively light weight of the bike makes for a very agreeable ride.

[PG]

I've had the same problem, and also found Soma Hwy1 bars solved it.

[tc]

It's been a while since I launched myself into this journey, so I thought I'd:

• Say THANKS to all who've made suggestions and submitted photos -- what a deep well of useful information and ideas!
• Share some additional thoughts based on what I done went and did
• Ask about a few specific bars

I replaced my Noodle bar with an Albastache last night, keeping the shorty 60mm stem.  I really liked being up in the hooks.  I didn't like the no-flare, straight back section as an alternate hand position.  That's based on a 10 min ride around the neighborhood; I'll take a longer ride today ... but knowing I'm not a fan of any straight back bar, I'm not holding out much hope.

I'm thinking the bar I'm searching for would be an Albastache that has more horizontal flare.  Kinda like a 3-way love child of a flipped VO Curvy One (650mm) x Albastache (555mm) x  Soma Sparrow (shown as 529, but they now offer a 560mm) ... that takes bar ends and road brake levers.  Obviously neither a flipped Albatross nor Billie meets those criteria.

With credits to whatbars.com (fantastic resource, just made a donation), here are those 3 bars, the Curvy One being the widest, and the Sparrow the most narrow:

Does such a flared-out Albastache-like bar, taking bar ends and road levers exist?  I think this would fill a niche that, apparently (amazingly) may not yet have been filled.  Actually, I hope it has and I just haven't found it yet.

Unless such a bar does exist, it looks like a flipped Curvy One or Sparrow (560) comes closest, and I may have to forgo the road levers, but keeping the bar end shifters.

Tom

[Joe Bernard]

The problem you'll have with the Albastache you're designing in your head is those bar-ends will be wayyyy out there on the ends. There's a point at which the reach gets weird, plus you'll be constantly banging those things into walls and doorways just moving the bike around.

[lambbo]

Second Joe's concern...even the widest noodles with bar-ends are unwieldy in a hallway or car.   To be fair, bikes should be set-up for riding not storage, but I see why narrow bars were a thing

[tc]

Joe,

Totally understand for those that are concerned with maneuvering inside.  I don't have that problem.  My bikes stay in an oversized 2-car garage, and get loaded onto a bike rack for the 10-30 min car ride to one of many bike paths or singletrack in the area, or a highway trip.  No buses, no nuttin'.  I don't ride on crowded city streets, either.

So, I'm not seeing an issue with a slightly wider flared Albastache-like bar with bar ends. I have wide shoulders, so with a 13cm stem, I think a wider-flared Albastache would be the bee's knees!

Now I'm staring down that 56 Albatross I almost forgot I bought, which has slightly wider flare than the Albastache.  Flipped, with bar ends and shifters placed just so, with some Rustine's....hmmm....

Tom

[Joe Bernard]

Albatross will work with barends. Give it a whirl!

[eddietheflay]

it is interesting to put different bars into this configurator. give a good idea on comparing Tross and Stache bars:

http://whatbars.com/

[tc]

My name is Tom, and I like the Albatross bar...now that I'm not hung up on using the rear-most portion of the grip as my main hold.

After switching out the Noodle for an Albastache, and not liking that very much, I waffled a bit more.  I watched Dan Stroud's really useful 3:40 min Nitto Albatross Handlebars video again, which convinced me to give it another try.  

An older 56 Albatross has been hanging around my garage for a while, so I thought what the heck...

I got a 130mm Tallux to get the reach way out there, a pair of Sunrace thumb shifters mounted inboard and swapped as in this handy Riv video, more cables, some ESI Chunky grips, and (yet) another set of the Tektro mountain levers (that take road cable, BTW).  Finished it up earlier this week and took'er for a whirl yesterday.  Loved it!

Placing my hands more fwd on the straighter section - resting on top of the shifter and brake clamps was really comfortable, esp. given the long-reach Tallux kept me from feeling cramped.  Moving up into the 'hooks' was comfortable as well -- a great position for applying power easily, while stretching out your ribs to breath heavily more easily.  I may try inverting the bar to see if the downward angle feels better (I remember I liked it on my Simpleone, but the shorter TT and stem on that bike was a touch cramped).

After an 8 mile ride I racked and locked the Roadini and then took the (61.5)  MIT Homer for a spin to compare.  My Homer as a 130mm Tallux and an Ahearne+Map bar with cork grips and IRD thumb shifters.  It also has 43 Cazaderos (vs 35 Compass Bon Jon Pass on the Roadini).  Wow - I wasn't expecting such a difference.  It really helps to ride diff bikes back-to-back.  First of all, the Homer felt a wee bit clunkier, no doubt because of its wider and rougher tires.  

But this is more of a handlebar review/compare, so here's what I learned:

• Don't write off the Albatross because you think it's "too upright".  
• If you appreciate the feel of being more stretched out and athletic to mash or get out of wind, get a really long-reach stem.  The portion of the bar that comes back towards you will allow several less-athletic "resting" or cruising positions
• Open your mind to your primary hand position being somewhere other than the grip ends.  Mine will be halfway up the straight portion, just before the curves 
• Grip thickness is important for being able to move your hands fwd and back along the straight part.  It so happens the ESI Chunky grip thickness is good, allowing you to rest your hands comfortably on top of the grip+brake clamp+shifter clamp area while not feeling too irregular/bumpy
• The front curves of the Albatross are very nicely shaped for extended riding in a more athletic position.  I definitely didn't feel like I was giving up anything speed-wise to a Noodle.  And that's mounted normally.  I'm going to raise the stem a bit and mount them inverted to compare.

More pic's here (you may have to scroll down to see the latest:  

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9xvXzfgMVWx8hAdW7

Tom

[Pancake]

Love to see all these albatross bar set up’s! I did miss the hood position though, so I put some bar ends in the far forward part of the bar. Eventually I’ll cover them with some newbaums cloth tape, but you get the idea. Do you have a forward “arrow “position and all of the hand positions described in the video up above.

[Matt D]

I've heard some good things about Velo Orange's crazy bars, offers both upright swept and forward bullhorn-like positions. Unfortunately they're impossible to thread through a quill stem, so you'll need to run a threadless stem adapter or find a quill stem with a removable faceplate. VO also happens to sell the only removable faceplate quill stem that's as tall as a Technomic, funny how things go like that...

[tc]

Well, this has been fun and fulfilling, and I think I've finally nailed it (for me).  Today I inverted the Albatross, raised the stem a touch to compensate, swapped out the ESI grips with black Ergons, wrapped the bends with black Newbaum's, and twined it.  I love the look, and I'm really lovin' riding the Roadini again, which was my goal from the start. 

I am so thankful forGrant's thinking behind the Albatross design, which, until I did all this 'cipherin', I hadn't fully appreciated.  What's funny is my reach to the bends, distance-wise, is the same as -- or maybe even a bit longer than -- my reach to the hoods when I had the 46 Noodle.  However, with the inverted Albatross, at the right height, the gentle, rounded bends, and the slight, much more natural downward angle (compared to the upward angle of the upright-mounted Albatross) feels so good.  With the Noodle I personally had 3 realistic hand positions, the 3rd being in the drops.  With the inverted Albatross, I have 4 realistic positions:

• All the way back on the grips for resting
• Heel of hand on the fwd part of the grips, with majority of hands on top of the brake and shifter clamps
• Rear side of the bends, with plenty of room for pinky finger because I rotated the the cable outlet of the shifters downward per Riv's suggestion
• Fully in the bends, with thumbs under or over the bar

In the bends I'm as 'athletic' as I need to be, can get good pumping leverage for speed or uphills, and am plenty comfortable to stay for a while.

So, here ends the saga of the great Roadini handlebar search.  Thanks for reading, and thanks to those who offered ideas!

Pic's added to my Roadini Google Photos album here.

Tom

[Joe Bernard]

And on top of all that you nailed the Path Racer look. Nice!

[Ash]

Ran into this picture of someone making Boscos out of bullhorns 

😀

[esoterica etc]

Tom,

I found a generic steel handlebar at the Durham Co-op a few months ago that is very similar to the Albatross bars, but with a little bit more drop at the curves. I also inverted them just like you did on what I call my “country rambler”, and I’ve really fallen in love with the cockpit setup. For some reason (to my eye anyways), your Roadini now looks “right” with your new handlebar setup. Enjoy your new ride and thanks for sharing!

~Mark 

Raleigh, NC

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[tc]

Thanks Joe, Ash, and Mark! I’m glad I didn’t have to go this far!
https://www.instagram.com/p/BwRlXtCjMC-/?igshid=1tywf169pera7

Tom