What is wireless dyno about?

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

In yesterday’s newsletter from Rivendell there was a botched custom for sale. Will wrote about “newfangled dropouts that allow for wireless dyno lighting” and I have never heard of such a thing. I know next to NOTHING about dyno, except that I really, really want it for my upcoming bike because I’m tired of dead batteries, Who can tell us (me) about this new wireless system and the dropouts it requires? And whatever else you want to contribute will be valuable, too.

In thanks,
Leah

[Leah Peterson]

And you will all forgive that errant comma where I thought I typed a period. I’m still recovering from last night’s 12 hour shift. 😬

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 28, 2020, at 9:21 AM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>

[phil k]

Leah,

They are dropouts with contacts brazed on. The brazed on contact is run inside the fork leg. This eliminates any wires having to be connected directly to the hub.

I have it on my Grand Bois custom, I'll try to take a picture when I get home so you can see how it works.

[Ray Varella]

It’s not wireless per se Leah.

The Schmidt SL hub has wireless connectors.
The specific dropout is the connection.
The wiring runs inside the fork.
It has to be built into a custom fork.
It eliminates the need to disconnect any wires when you remove your wheel.

Ray

[ted]

Normally there are a pair of wires that plug into the dyno hub which must be disconnected when removing the front wheel. With the right hub and fork ends the connection is made through the surfaces of the fork ends.
Check the Rene Herse web site
https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/framebuilding/sl-dropouts/
https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/hubs/sondelux-sl-wide-body-generator-hub/

[Peter White]

https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt-sl.php

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Peter White

[Joe Bernard]

That's a very cool feature. Disconnecting/reconnecting wires for wheel removal is a pain in the patooty.

[George Schick]

Interesting.  Never heard tell of such a thing.  Seems like you'd need to be meticulous about keeping both the surface of the dropout and that matching "plate" that has the cable connected to it very clean from dirt and grease, though.  Or else risk intermittent, flakey lighting.

[Steve Palincsar]

They're not really wireless.  The wire is concealed inside the fork blade.  Here https://www.instagram.com/p/B8yoBUWFGJ-/  is an Instagram posting from Peter Weigle showing the making of a number of fork blades for the Schmidt SL system.

Installation and removal of the front wheel is no different than any ordinary quick release front wheel - except that you have to make sure you don't have the wheel in backwards (i.e., wrong side facing the dropout with the connection plate).  Where normally all you'd lose is style points, here if you have the wheel in backwards the light won't work.

On 2/28/20 1:37 PM, Peter White wrote:

https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt-sl.php

On Fri, Feb 28, 2020 at 12:21 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:

In yesterday’s newsletter from Rivendell there was a botched custom for sale. Will wrote about “newfangled dropouts that allow for wireless dyno lighting” and I have never heard of such a thing. I know next to NOTHING about dyno, except that I really, really want it for my upcoming bike because I’m tired of dead batteries, Who can tell us (me) about this new wireless system and the dropouts it requires? And whatever else you want to contribute will be valuable, too.

In thanks,
Leah

-- 
Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia 
USA

[Joe Bernard]

That's a non-issue for me, I always put the wheel in the way I've lined up the tabs to meet the wires. Eliminating the disconnect/connect part would be important enough for me to have my frame redone to get those dropouts.

[Patrick Moore]

I think I know the answer, but please (y'all) confirm my suspicion: this plugless (better than "wireless") connection system requires a particular model of the SON hub, right? My old (2006?) SON -- model made for small wheels but installed in a 26" wheel -- will not work with this sort of in-fork wiring right?

I ask because I may before too long have a fork made to match a new frame, and I'd love this feature, but I'm not sure I want to pay $273+ for another SON hub when mine still works just fine. If I buy another uber alles German lighting product, it will be an Edeluxe II to replace the doughty Edeluxe I.

FWIW, after having use many Shimano and SP dynohubs with their "cartridge" wiring plugs, and 2 SON hubs with their ungoverned prongs, I have to say that a simple plug would make a great deal of the attachment/reattachment hassle -- well, much less of a hassle. I bound the female plugs for the SON together with shrink tubing and a zip tie, and they are much less errant now than if left single and isolated; but still, a cheap plastic Shimano-type plug makes life much easier.

[lconley]

Or you can use Dyna-Snap connectors.

Not as slick as the fork, but can use with your existing hub.

Laing

Cocoa, FL

[Steve Palincsar]

On 2/28/20 2:58 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
> I think I know the answer, but please (y'all) confirm my suspicion:
> this plugless (better than "wireless") connection system requires a
> particular model of the SON hub, right?

Yes, the Son SL.

> My old (2006?) SON -- model made for small wheels but installed in a
> 26" wheel -- will not work with this sort of in-fork wiring right?

No it will not.

>
> I ask because I may before too long have a fork made to match a new
> frame, and I'd love this feature, but I'm not sure I want to pay $273+
> for another SON hub when mine still works just fine. If I buy another
> uber alles German lighting product, it will be an Edeluxe II to
> replace the doughty Edeluxe I.

On the other hand, a non-SL generator hub would work just fine in a fork
equipped with SL dropouts.  You'd just need to run the wires as if the
SL stuff wasn't there.   So if you had an old SON hub that you thought
you would be replacing at some point in the relatively near future and
you wanted to have the new frame SL-ready, you could go ahead and have
the fork built with the SL stuff and just not use it right away.

>
> FWIW, after having use many Shimano and SP dynohubs with their
> "cartridge" wiring plugs, and 2 SON hubs with their ungoverned prongs,
> I have to say that a simple plug would make a great deal of the
> attachment/reattachment hassle -- well, much less of a hassle. I bound
> the female plugs for the SON together with shrink tubing and a zip
> tie, and they are much less errant now than if left single and
> isolated; but still, a cheap plastic Shimano-type plug makes life much
> easier.

I don't disagree, but believe me, the SL stuff really is neat.

[Steve Palincsar]

On 2/28/20 2:28 PM, George Schick wrote:

Interesting.  Never heard tell of such a thing.  Seems like you'd need to be meticulous about keeping both the surface of the dropout and that matching "plate" that has the cable connected to it very clean from dirt and grease, though.  Or else risk intermittent, flakey lighting.

Do you find much in the way of dirt and grease on the inside of your fork ends?    I've never seen any, even if the bike has dirt all over it.

On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 11:27:39 AM UTC-6, phil k wrote:

Leah,

They are dropouts with contacts brazed on. The brazed on contact is run inside the fork leg. This eliminates any wires having to be connected directly to the hub.

I have it on my Grand Bois custom, I'll try to take a picture when I get home so you can see how it works.

On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 12:21:10 PM UTC-5, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

In yesterday’s newsletter from Rivendell there was a botched custom for sale. Will wrote about “newfangled dropouts that allow for wireless dyno lighting” and I have never heard of such a thing. I know next to NOTHING about dyno, except that I really, really want it for my upcoming bike because I’m tired of dead batteries, Who can tell us (me) about this new wireless system and the dropouts it requires? And whatever else you want to contribute will be valuable, too.

In thanks,
Leah

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[Patrick Moore]

Good point; which I'll carefully consider when talking to the builder.

[ascpgh]

I'm about to have both.

My commuter with the old spade clips and wire going down the fork leg: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KvEhGNafH7NENUbJA

The unconnected length of slack is carefully calculated for me to be able to carefully pull the wires' clips off the hub's spades in mittens (don't ask). Otherwise the wire pair runs up the outside of the fork leg and excess is bundled near the headlight. Tres cosmetique.

The new thing in the works will have the SL treatment Vaughn's "wrong" custom has which is the frame and fork are the ground or (-) pole for the generator hub and a single wire carries the (+) pole of the DC current. For cleanliness (see my commuter for the opposite) the SL system uses an insulated contact on one fork dropout for the (+) pole from the generator hub that has a wire connected to it which runs immediately into the fork leg tube and is out of the weather, slop and camera view. A sample: https://www.flickr.com/photos/57641994@N06/9686197451

Aside from the visual and physical cleanliness from wires strung all up and around the bike, it lets you drop the front wheel just like any other instead of having to disconnect those two small spade connectors (or one of the cool single prong connectors).  

Catherine and my new thing (you can zoom in on the right fork tip and see better): https://photos.app.goo.gl/fE9RhuZwJNTJuiCZ7

All the wires are up at the top ot the fork awaiting final trimming, connecting and tucking away. 

Andy Cheatham

Pittsburgh

[Corwin]

Inside the fork routing of wires utilizing a th SL connector in the dropouts of the fork is definitely very cool. But this requires the fork be built custom. In my opinion, the co-axial connection is far preferable to the internal wire routing and the dropout connector. The coaxial connector has the advantage of being adaptable to almost any bike. I had Peter White cut my coaxial wire to a custom length and put in a Y-junction, enabling my wife to charge her iPhone on our Hubbuhubbuh. Check out Corwin's Hubbuhubbuh on the Blug: https://rivbike.tumblr.com/ . The Y-junction and the Sinewave charger are visible in the second and third photos respectively. The co-axial connectors are also much easier to remove and attach to the Schmidt hub than the spade connectors.

Namaste,

Corwin