Questions about and probably looking for TRP road brake levers; definitely looking for Microshift 11-speed bar end shifters; both in BLACK.

[Patrick Moore]

As I said earlier, I’m looking for aero brake levers with long hoods that more or less mimic the Ultegra R8000 brifters on my Roadeo.

I’m looking for levers with hoods ~2 cm longer than the standard Shimano BL R400 aero levers.

Someone recommended the TRPs and pictures show a brifter-like hood.

1. Can someone give me the distance from tip of hood to rear of rubber?

2. Can anyone tell me if these are made entirely from aluminum, or if the bodies proper are plastic?

3. If plastic, can anyone say how durable they are?

4. Can anyone tell me the difference between the RRL Alloy and the RRL-SR Road levers?

https://trpcycling.com/products/rrl-al

https://trpcycling.com/products/rrl-sr

https://trpcycling.com/collections/trp-brake-levers

Does anyone have a pair of either in BLACK to sell?

Lastly, does anyone have a pair of 11-speed Microshift bar end shifters in BLACK to sell?

Thanks.

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Patrick Moore

Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[Ryan Fleming]

" 4 RRL Alloy and the RRL-SR Road levers?" - SR are the drilled ones, I believe. Can't speak to your 1st 3 questions but I will say they play well with those Grand Cru levers you are expecting...and the QR button on the body of the lever works brilliantly with the QR on the Grand Crus...no deflation of tire required (My Road has 32mm Stampede Pass tires)

[Garth]

The TRP doesn't really have a point, it's a blunt contoured knob sorta thing, made to fit the hand. From what I'll call the middle of that knob, I measure 8cm. From the last groove on the rubber of the hood(where the webbing of your hand would be), it's 7cm. I have a set of all black I'd sell you but frankly I think you're better off getting a set from a seller on ebay as they include the shipping. That's how I got them. There's a number of sellers of the black ones, here's one https://www.ebay.com/itm/204700099392?. I've ordered from that seller before so no it's fine. 

To confirm what Ryan said, the plain RRL is a solid lever, the SR is drilled. I've never seen the SR in all black. 

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, Garth. I wonder if I’d be better off gutting the Ultegra brifters? I’m particular about reach from saddle, and with the very short reach anatomic bar and the long Ultegra hoods I get the same reach and largely the same “feel” as with a Maes Parallel and the BL 7402 levers, with saddle position and stem and bar height about the same. 1 cm can make a difference in “feel,” and I’d rather not buy yet another stem.

Do others have ideas about how to get the same hood reach on the very short reach anatomic Cannodale bar by comparison with a Maes Parallel and the BL R 400 type levers?

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[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, Ryan; it’s the RRL’s I’d want, for the back.  Good to know that they’ll work well with the Grand Cru calipers — tho’ I have no problem getting the 32 mm tires out of the Tektro 588s.

Aside: Does anyone have for sale or trade a pair of Ultegra R8000 brifters in bad mechanical but good cosmetic condition, or a similar brifter, in black, that I can gut for the brake levers alone?

Again, Cannondale short reach bar + Ultegra Brifter hood = Maes Parallel bar + DA BL7402 brake hood.

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[Patrick Moore]

Well, a lot of this could have been avoided if one had done his homework. I apologize for the bandwidth. It seems that Microshift’s 11 speed shifters are indexed only (contrary to what I read or thought I’d read), and between the hassle of trying other friction-only BES and finding new levers that mimic the length of the Ultegra brifters, it makes more sense just to fine-tune the brifter indexing a bit more (messed up by the LBS) and just ride the damned thing.

Maybe I’ll turn the Roadeo into a fixed gear.

Thanks, all. Over and out.

[Ryan Fleming]

But could you do those 50+ mile outings you enjoy with the riding group you've hooked up with  on a fixed gear would be my question.

I think you got a really nice ride at a decent price on the second-hand market that adds more than it  subtracts from your riding experience and I would just fine-tune the indexed shifting and ride the damned thing as you said. I'm not saying this in a mean-spirited way....just so we're clear.

[Patrick Moore]

Nope, and yes indeed, and yes, and yes, dammit! And, understood!

Patrick “what’s life without something to fret about?” Moore

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[Zachary Cannon]

If you do decide to switch, I'd try TRP levers before starting a dissection. I'm quite a fan. 

Both my kids have Shimano 11 speed road on one bike each. It should shift pretty impeccably once dialed. I found the front to be difficult to get right initially for sure. The hand feel is said to be similar to TRP levers too.

The gear pull ratio was the same on all Shimano rear derailleur up until 9 speed mountain and 10 speed road. (After that, Shuimano mountain and road pull ratios diverge). Unless I am using a cassette that has a 40+ tooth big cog, I just use an older derailleur with old Suntour bar cons and I've been happy 7-11 speeds. If I'm going over 28 in back, I tend to use 9 speed XT or XTR rear derailleurs since they work so well, with the last of the nice speeds handling up to 36.

The only reason to run a more recent derailleur friction is for a bigger cassette, likely run one by. I ran a 11 speed XT rearderailleur and 11 speed cassette with a Suntour barcon and a Wolftooth tanpan and it worked well. I was worried about cable life, but had no immediate issues. I am now running a 11 speed GRX rear derailleur with a Ene Ciclo 11-12 bar end shifter and it feels really good. I've only down about 400 miles so far, but it's been super hilly. I can say the feel is excellent. I can't speak to durability yet vs Suntour barcons. Give me a few years. This would be the buy once solution via Soma or Blue Lug.

If you are running friction, any of the Microshifter bar cons with a friction option and is 10 speed mountain or later will work in friction mode. I have a friend who has run this set up happiless for thousands of hard, dirty miles, but I haven't.

Good luck, Z also in ABQ

[Conway Bennett]

Patrick,

I have brand new without packaging all black TRP levers from God knows abandoned project.  May me a fair offer shipped from Chicagoland.

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, Conway. I’d be very interested, except that my plans for the shifters to replace the Ultegra brifters fell through; it seems that Microshift does not make a combined indexing/friction bar end shifter for road 11, only for mountain 11; which is very strange. Since I want to keep the Ultegra R8000 drivetrain otherwise intact — don’t want to buy and install a Shimano mtb rd — that scuttles the plan.

It’s back to refiddling the brifter/rd adjustment to undo the maladjustment that the bike shop did when they checked my derailleur hanger for mis-alignment.

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[Conway Bennett]

Tldr--i just learned that, but I assure the microshift bar ends shifts friction.  Jus buy the 12 speed version though, but know that there are a Shimano and sram version.

[Patrick Moore]

Conway: Please elucidate: are you saying that the MS 11 speed ROAD BES have a friction option? That’s not what their website seems to say, tho’ damn them, vendors are never, ever precise about product specs.

12 speed no go, as my cassette is 11 sp and I want an indexing fallback to any friction option. Also, all black.

Curious, question for all: will Dura Ace 11 sp BES work with Ultegra 11 sp road cassettes?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125882095548?epid=2255520713&itmmeta=01KNZ4NJB726GW4WCHST8ZSNPE&hash=item1d4f2857bc:g:klcAAeSw95tpwBrJ&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA4DKQclQvzFwZQpmMrsO4LurZvTdUPSVGUpq2Qt6OYtHq5fEKyvotROm70bRqHb9bDYMs9MYAoz0QxYJFcHWIAXoqrgWb3oOC0QPPdyUP5Cfvezp5Yqg694zIYfaqAB01u6n4tQVwzwH2I0wz64JHhG2mEVAqrCQ8FQlWjxuEj83cqnaK0JOBm2noKLOjqO3EVQ5a9x5HnNLbxFfcS2Pml5I%2BrsmkP%2B%2Foi5O3AcNgyPMsVp8IwqGYkVY1OB45WZscLnlOb8Yoy1DzK5vLmy%2Bj3YO3ZXpgvet%2BB%2Fv0C4R4t5Lm%7Ctkp%3ABFBM3KXW5K9n

[Conway Bennett]

I currently run the shifter below with a gevanelle/microshift 10 speed rear derailleur, and I've used the 11 speed version of the shifter, the one you're interested in, on a medium cage 10 speed era ultra derailleur.  I'd bet a paycheck it'll work.  I'm using the shifter below on 4 bikes.

microSHIFT | Right Bar End... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YF3ZW9L?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Fair winds,

Captain Conway Bennett
239.877.4119

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[Ben Miller]

I think I might have responded to Patrick's message directly already, or it just got lost...

But an 11 spd MTB shifter in friction will certainly shift an 11 spd road RD. It just can not be indexed. 

[Zachary Cannon]

This seems to be the case: 11 speed road doesn't look to have friction. 

10/11/12 speed mountain all work would work with your rear derailleur in friction mode.

Shimano bar end shifters stopped having friction with 10 speed.

Dura Ace and Ultegra rear derailleurs are interchangeable if they are both 11 speed.

 

On another note: I don't think dialing the indexing on the bar end shifter will be any easier than on a brifter. Each requires achieving the right tension. So no reason to give up on the brifters unless you just prefer friction (as I do, so know judgment). 

Youtube is your friend here.  There should be quite a few videos for any Shimano rear derailleur. When I've been stuck, I've found videos useful for sorting out the shifting for a particular model.

This may sound jaded, but I suspect I'm not the only person who took over their own bike maintainance after having one too many shop mishaps. 

Good luck! Zach in ABQ

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, Zach. I should probably "read the instructions" -- or watch instructional videos -- before fiddling with the system.

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[Guy Jett]

"...no reason to give up on the brifters unless you just prefer friction (as I do...) -- Zachary Cannon.

I hear you clearly.  I've run bar end shifters since the late '70's and prefer friction.

First set, and still going, were an early Dura-Ace set shifting a Normandy 5-speed with a Huret Jubilee then a SunTour Ultra-6 with a SunTour Cyclone then a Huret DuoPar Eco).  A flexible setup.  

When I purchased my Hilson in 2010 I had Rivendell put on Dura-Ace SL-BS77's which could switch between indexing and friction mated to a Shimano CS-HG61 12-36 9-speed and an XT long cage rear.  I tried indexing for a couple of years then switched to friction only.  Every now and then I try indexing again but soon back to friction.

Friction:

Advantages:

*  Hands on handlebars all the time.  Important with a touring load, if a shimmy develops, and shifting when putting max power down.

*  Not needing to reach "way down".  Important for same reasons above plus no time loss shifting to reach down and back up.  This is even more important as the decades have passed.

Disadvantages:

*  Need to fine tune shifting after most shifts (trivial with experience).

Indexing:

Advantages:

*  Click and you've shifted to the next gear.

Disadvantages:

*  Due to slight cable stretch or slippage, the indexing drifts out of adjustment.  

     There is often no correction without getting off the bike and tuning various adjusters.

     With friction you simply make the adjustment with the shift lever.

*  Multiple clicks to change over multiple gears.

     With friction the multi-gear change is a smooth motion over the several gears, then a fine adjustment.

So, as a retrogrouch, I find friction shifting to be more reliable and trouble free.

GAJett

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