To shim or not to shim?

[Sheldon Rothenberg]

I seek  wisdom on the mysteries of shims. I get that shims are a device that enable one to use different dimensioned handlebars for your bike. Does using one compromise safety or integrity? Would using one make it harder for a klutzy non-mechanic to remove handlebars for shipping and reinstall as in packing a bike for shipment and unpacking for the ride?

The context is my preparing for an overseas bike camping trip. The moustache handlebars (handlbar mustache shaped)that are on my Rivendell All-Rounder are not very compatible with my Ortlieb handlebar bag. In looking for alternative handlebars that would give more clearance and  have slight drops  in-between road and mountain bars, I  found different but suitable bars from two sources. A Nitto model sold by Rivendell would require a shim. A one sold and made by Velo-Orange would not. In other words, should I make shim or non-shim a deciding factor or is it irrelevant in ease of packing and unpacking?


Shelley

[René Sterental]

My experiences with the Nitto shims to try to fit 25.4 bars on 26mm stems is the following:

- Once everything is set, they work very well.

- Installing them is a total PIA, as I end up scratching the bar since it's so hard to slide them and adjust them in place when the center of the bar is inside the stem. And I use the Nitto stem stretcher tool to open the jaws of the stem to try to slide the three pieces in (2 shims + bar).

Maybe I haven't figured the way to do it correctly, which may require two people + who knows what else, but as I stated, I end up scratching the bars multiple times.

If anyone knows of a procedure to do it without scratching the bars, please share.

René 

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[Bill M.]

I have no problems using a shim.  0.010" brass shim stock is a perfect thickness to mate 25.4 bars to a 26.0 stem.  I got a piece at my local hardware store.  It's soft and malleable enough to open up and slip over the bar easily.  I round the corners to make sure there are no sharp edges to scratch the bar or the mechanic.  Once the shim is cut and rolled the tie difference in installing or removing the bars is negligible.  Don't let the need for a shim drive your bar decision, get the right bar and shim if needed.

Bill

Stockton, CA

[dougP]

Sheldon:

My experience is same as Rene's.  My work around was using only one piece if the Nitto shim.  While mechanically this may be incorrect, it's been in there for a few years with no problem.  Bob's suggestion of brass shim stock is better.  The Nitto stuff is I think stainless steel. 

If you are planning to disassemble the bike for shipping, it's a lot easier to remove a quill stem.  That leaves your handlebar set-up as-is.  Just wrap a bit of tape around the stem at the headset & the re-install is simple.

dougP

On Monday, May 29, 2017 at 8:16:19 AM UTC-7, Sheldon Rothenberg wrote:

[Eric Norris]

+1 on the shims being a pain to install. It's possible to get them in without scratching the bars, but it takes some doing. I've never tried the brass material, but now that I know it exists I may give it a shot.

P.S. I have a set of 26>25.4 Nitto shims. I you need them, I will sell them for less than I paid.

Eric N

www.CampyOnly.com

CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com

Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

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[Dave Small]

My only experience with a handlebar shim was quite positive.  On one bike I replaced the drop bar with an Albatross bar that's 25.4 mm.  On this bike I use a stem riser with a threadless stem and removable faceplate to make switching stems easy.  I installed the Albatross bars on a cheap (I think it was Kalloy) stem that's 25.4 mm, and couldn't get the stem tightened down enough to prevent the bar from rotating in it, even though bar and stem were both 25.4 mm.  I was nervous the entire time I was out on the one ride I took with this setup.  I swapped the Kalloy stem out for a VO stem with a 26.0 mm clamp used a Nitto 25.4 to 26.0 shim, and it's rock steady---I can't move it with any reasonable force (in other words, I didn't jump up and down on it, but when I press down harder than I ever will when riding it doesn't move). 

I think Rene's right that it could be tricky to install a shim in a traditional threaded stem with little clearance for the shim, but once that's done it should be solid.  

[Ron Mc]

I've only used a handlebar shim once.  It was for an Ahearne Map bar in a Technomic stem.Certainly nothing scratched.  About all I remember was a little bit of fuss getting the top and bottom halves aligned evenly, since the shims were slightly wider than the stem.  

I'm also in the habit of spreading open stems with the big screwdriver blade before I insert bars, so maybe that helped.  

While I would say shims are something you wouldn't choose to do if you didn't need it, I don't otherwise see a downside to them.  They make a solid joint when done.  

[Joe Bernard]

I'm with the PITA crowd. I detest the little buggers, and would never want to use them with a bar that needed to be removed and replaced several times. I have a 25.4-26.0 set that I must have bought to hit a free shipping price on a Riv order. I've never used them and can't imagine I ever will so they're also on the market for cheap.

[Broccoli Cog]

I installed shims last night. I would describe them as fiddly. I ended up sliding the bars into position first and then slid each half in one at a time. I spread the stem with a large screw driver with one hand and used a plastic tire lever to push each half of the shims into position. Once in place they work just fine. In the context of your question I don't think I would want to do this in a travel situation. I would be more inclined to get the bar I wanted and then change the stem to a 25.4.

[Patrick Moore]

I'm using Compass Maes bars at 25.4 in Nitto 26.0 stems with shims made from thin brass stock; works very well. I have had and anticipate no problems, and much easier to use than the Nitto shim, which I've also used.

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[Eli Queen]

This is the method I've used to insert shims (which -- as others have said -- work great once installed) as well as handlebars.

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/01/17/inserting-a-handlebar-into-a-stem/

It works perfectly, and the little nut/bolt/dime jig holds the stem open so you have both hands free to position the shim.

I haven't found the that the masking tape is always necessary.

Hope this helps,

Eli