Rust never sleeps. What to do, if anything?

[Steven Seelig]

I'm not a chemist or metallurgist, so I am flumoxed as to how to deal with this 1st world problem on my Ram.  Had I not turned over the bike today I'd be blissfully unaware that I had an aesthetic conundrum.  I understand that a similar reason as to why many folks don't go to the doctor to learn about things that might be wrong with them.

My first inclination in seeing this was to whip out my trusty clear nail polish and simply paint over it.  But then I started thinking, what if rust is like a fungus and it can continue to multiply underneath the polish until my Ram frame is rottted out and it would have been ALL MY FAULT.  

So I wondered if it made sense to get a steel brush and abrade off what rust I could.  I wonder further if I should use some vinegar and baking soda and gently abrade the rust and then apply the polish.

Thoughts from those in the know, or even those not in the know, are appreciated.

[Mike Rossi]

That’s pitted. Using some kind of blaster ( for something that small a glass etching type blaster) is about the only way to get rid of the rust. You could try a steel brush and some type of “rust converter”, but from being in the auto paint industry for ~30 years, I’ve never known that to work as described.

Mike

On Dec 29, 2025, at 3:42 PM, 'Steven Seelig' via RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:



--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/01cee529-401f-47ee-b0c3-6e948e1ab1f0n%40googlegroups.com.

<IMG_0126.jpeg>

[Ben Miller]

Hi Steve,

Sorry about your unexpected corrosion!

Rust, or iron corrosion, isn't like fungus, covering it up will stop it from spreading. HOWEVER, simple painting over rust is not ideal, since the iron oxide layer is weak and not bonded well to the steel beneath it. Therefore surface preparation is one of the most important steps in applying a coating to prevent corrosion (something 70-80% of the work in coating steel infrastructure is surface prep).

A metal brush followed by light sanding is probably the best option, but just a metal brush is probably good enough if you can visibly see that all the rust is gone. Chemical removal (like vinegar) is less than ideal, as it is messy and less effective overall. 

Finally, I know nail polish is a popular choice for recoating, but nail polish is really just a nitrocellulose lacquer meant for cosmetic purposes and not to inhibit rust. At much better, but still simple and clear coat option is linseed oil, which is the basis of oil paint. It does take much longer to dry, but is much more durable and better coating for inhibiting future rust. applying heat to the area with a heat gun or hair dryer even for a little bit can help speed drying times.

Best of luck. And don't worry too much about it :) 

Cheers,

Ben

[P W]

Once removed. Linseed oil. Let it sit for a few weeks to fully dry.

Then buy some autobody clear coat. Give it a few careful coats of that.

P. W.

~

(917) 514-2207

~

On Dec 29, 2025, at 9:15 PM, Ben Miller <ben.l....@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Steve,

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/84f273df-616a-4684-a3e5-234136585d45n%40googlegroups.com.

[Garth]

My snowblower has pitting rust like that. I sprayed it with Fluid Film, which stops the rust from progressing. It doesn't convert it or make any such claim, it just stops it from going any further. It's a lanolin based spray, so it's very tenacious, adheres well when dry, and is not easily washed off. Apply every year or as needed. It's a path of minimal heroics. 

[Steven Seelig]

Thanks to all.  I was being facetious about the fungus.  Anybody watching The Last of Us would get the fungus reference.

So I am inclined to try the steel brush method although the etching blaster sounds intriguing.  Who wouldn't want to wield a blaster!

My old friend Linseed oil was the preferred method during my childhood of breaking in a leather baseball glove.  Coat the glove in Linseed oil, put a baseball inside and then wrap it in rubber bands.  Some would drop in in a bucket of water and others would not.  Who knew it was used for oil based paint?  

I assume the clear coat paint would also be oil based after the Linseed oil dries thoroughly.

Thanks for all the ideas.

[Jason Fuller]

I would sand it down with some sandpaper personally, just to get the loose iron oxide off and a nice dependable surface for paint to adhere to, and then wipe clean with alcohol. Then use paint of your choosing really - I'd probably go with automotive touch-up paint with the handy brush to make it easy on myself. As long as it's a proper paint and not just primer (which is porous and will allow rust to continue) and adhered properly, you should be good 

[George Schick]

One thing that strikes me strange during this entire discussion, including the OP's post, is what caused it in the first place?  Looks to me like those rust marks on that part of both chain stays indicate that one of those kick stands that clamp between the top and bottom of those stays was used allowing corrosive elements (street salt) to creep between the bottom clamps and harbor there, encouraging rust.  Any or all of the great recommendations in this thread will surely check the rust problem, but after they're applied re-installing that kickstand (if used and riding in the same conditions) will be asking for a repeat of the same problem.

[Brian Turner]

This thread just makes me wanna listen to some Neil Young.

Brian
Lexington KY

[George Schick]

Agreed.  But which Neil Young?  There are several songs that could apply.

[Nick A.]

Well, for me, the "Rust Never Sleeps" album has a slight edge over "Rust Live[s]".

Nick in Falls Church VA

[Kim H.]

Suggestively speaking, I would use and recommend laquer thinner as a cleaner before applying any kind of paint. If you do so, make sure that you air out your rags for 24 hours before disposing of them. 

Kim Hetzel. 

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/56d026a9-bf27-49b6-9238-56ec8834dedbn%40googlegroups.com.

[Steven Seelig]

I bought the bike used and I cannot remember if it had a kickstand on it at the time.  Obviously, there was a kickstand there for a good period of time.  Regardless, I installed a kickstand on the rear triangle so nothing will be reinstalled on top of the now-rusty area.

[David Ross]

I had a similar spot on a vintage Mtb caused by the chain. I lightly sanded it and then used a boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits mixture to coat the area. I would recoat it a couple of times a year and it worked really well. 

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/e18a6951-8d88-4fd2-a94b-21ee3d8cd17bn%40googlegroups.com.

[George Schick]

BTW, linseed oil and mineral spirits are just as much a potential hazard for spontaneous combustion as the lacquer thinner that Kim mentions if left in a pile after using.  Be sure to hang all rags used to air out the volatile compounds before disposing.  I worked my way through my undergraduate years as a painter on the college's maintenance crew and most of us always hung up our bibs at the end of the day.  Those who just left them in a heap on the floor often found ashes when they arrived the next day.