girlfriend bike / crazy kickstand install

[S. Greco]

My lovely girlfriend was finally ready to graduate from her Schwinn to something a little nicer. She wasn't ready for a Riv despite my recommendations. Her criteria was that it must be a step-through frame. My criteria was that it must have a derailleur hanger - a proper one and not a metal tab hanging off the drop out. This combination was surprisingly harder to find than I thought it would be. I managed to find an old Colner (Ernesto Colnago) on eBay for a decent price. It came with some Campy Gran Compe and had internal top-tube routing which was a nice bonus. She insisted that it have a kickstand though, which became more of a project than I thought. 

I ordered the standard Pletscher Kickstand from Riv but due to the tight geometry of the frame there isn't alot of room in the rear triangle. I had to switch the hex bolt to a button head which was much more low-profile. Then, realizing that the plate would sit crooked on the bottom bracket lugs had to machine a little rabbet so that the plates would sit flush and clamp properly. Lastly as this whole assembly was now blocking any chance of getting at the chain stay bridge I had to bury a flat head in the chain stay with a nylock so that there was a captive threaded post to bolt on the fender.

In the end I think it turned out to be a pretty sweet ride. I never thought a kickstand install could be so complicated.

Next step is a brake upgrade, then I gotta replace these cottered cranks.

[Patrick Moore]

It looks like a very practical ride; congratulations. 

"...bury a flathead in the chainstay..." I suppose you meant "chainstay bridge"?

Why not leave on the cottered cranks, unless you are trying to save weight? Unless you object to the weight or unless you will be disassembling the bb every year for maintenance, a decent cottered crankset/bb can be trouble free for a long time, as I know from my various Raleigh Sprites and Sportses. (Among cheap cranksets, only the Astabula is better!)

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[eflayer]

I've spent hours trying to "screw" with ill-fitting kickstands like this. Doesn't it seem like Pleitscher and Greenfield could make a model where you insert and tighten the bolt from under the BB instead of on top? Isn't there always more clearance underneath? Am I missing something here in how that would be tough to make happen?

'

[Scott Henry]

Greenfield makes the retro kit

[eflayer]

On Wednesday, December 28, 2016 at 8:57:11 AM UTC-8, S. Greco wrote:

[eflayer]

The retro kit enable better fitting of the top bracket but the bolt hole and bolt head are still in the same position. That position often brings the bolt head really close to the seat tube. Why not thread the top bracket and bring the bolt in from the bottom side?

On Wednesday, December 28, 2016 at 8:57:11 AM UTC-8, S. Greco wrote:

[eflayer]

I "stand" corrected:

http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/greenfield-ks2sb-kickstand-with-retro-kit-black?gclid=Cj0KEQiA4o3DBRCJsZqh8vWqt_8BEiQA2Fw0eSpQmaC512X9vvR1e_iF6XVegKG21BzdAiHkvQ2QVXwaAg3a8P8HAQ

On Wednesday, December 28, 2016 at 8:57:11 AM UTC-8, S. Greco wrote:

[Scott Henry]

Yep, sorry, that picture I clipped from Greenfield isn't the best.   

The bolt is narrow and goes up via the bottom and threads into the new top plate.    Its oddly shaped to allow FD cables to pass in the tight areas.

[S. Greco]

I had considered threading the top plate and bolting up from the bottom. The distance between the bottom bracket and the chain stay bridge was already tight - going up a size or two in order to get threads in the top would have been impossible. The bolt size needed wouldn't have fit between bottom bracket chain stay bridge. Still, i feel its silly that they don't all thread in this way, as its always easier to flip the bike over and have total access to the hardware then to try to come in at an angle and avoid marring the seat tube paint.

I did indeed mean chain stay bridge for the captive flathead bolt - no holes in the chain stays i promise :)

The captive bolt means that you don't have to take the kickstand off if you have to mess around with the fender.

I have nothing against cottered cranks, in fact I generally enjoy the classic appearance of them, this particular set has a little bit of play in the arms though which manifests as a bit of wobble in the pedal stroke.

[eflayer]

Maybe the issue I never solved was attaching an actual Pleitscher-branded kickstand in the bottom up manner as I think the Greenfield Retro uses different bolt size. As I recall Pleitscher is a better quality stand even though both brands "look" the same.

On Wednesday, December 28, 2016 at 8:57:11 AM UTC-8, S. Greco wrote:

[Mark in Beacon]

The issue might be lack of chain ring options, and inability to go much lower than a 50/42 -- 39 if you are lucky.

On Wednesday, December 28, 2016 at 12:18:27 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

It looks like a very practical ride; congratulations. 

"...bury a flathead in the chainstay..." I suppose you meant "chainstay bridge"?

Why not leave on the cottered cranks, unless you are trying to save weight? Unless you object to the weight or unless you will be disassembling the bb every year for maintenance, a decent cottered crankset/bb can be trouble free for a long time, as I know from my various Raleigh Sprites and Sportses. (Among cheap cranksets, only the Astabula is better!)

On Wed, Dec 28, 2016 at 9:57 AM, S. Greco <steven...@gmail.com> wrote:

My lovely girlfriend was finally ready to graduate from her Schwinn to something a little nicer. She wasn't ready for a Riv despite my recommendations. Her criteria was that it must be a step-through frame. My criteria was that it must have a derailleur hanger - a proper one and not a metal tab hanging off the drop out. This combination was surprisingly harder to find than I thought it would be. I managed to find an old Colner (Ernesto Colnago) on eBay for a decent price. It came with some Campy Gran Compe and had internal top-tube routing which was a nice bonus. She insisted that it have a kickstand though, which became more of a project than I thought. 

I ordered the standard Pletscher Kickstand from Riv but due to the tight geometry of the frame there isn't alot of room in the rear triangle. I had to switch the hex bolt to a button head which was much more low-profile. Then, realizing that the plate would sit crooked on the bottom bracket lugs had to machine a little rabbet so that the plates would sit flush and clamp properly. Lastly as this whole assembly was now blocking any chance of getting at the chain stay bridge I had to bury a flat head in the chain stay with a nylock so that there was a captive threaded post to bolt on the fender.

In the end I think it turned out to be a pretty sweet ride. I never thought a kickstand install could be so complicated.

Next step is a brake upgrade, then I gotta replace these cottered cranks.

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[MartyG]

I can't recall who makes this type, or how I ended up with it, but it worked for me on a couple low-clearance projects. Just have to make sure you can get an allen wrench'bhondus in there. 

 

[MartyG]

Looks like it must be an Esge. Here's one from Niagara:

 http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/pletscher-zoom-esge-adjustable-kickstand-silver

[Surlyprof]

The Esge works great on a Riv, too.  I picked up one of those cheap at the last Riv garage sale.  I don't love the modern look on my Hillborne but still use it.  They are fully adjustable and work really great with excellent clearance for wide tires (my double Pletscher was rubbing on Smart Sam knobbies).

John