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I have several B.17s, none new, with mileage in excess of 10,000 miles
and no asymmetric sagging. Although some of these saddles were
purchased after the acquisition of Brooks, I believe they were all made
prior to that. I'm not sure how common the problem is, but I've not
seen it in person, either on my saddles or other people's.
> I got a full refund as it was under warranty--it was only a year old--
> and purchased a Berthoud touring saddle from Mike Kone at Rene Herse
> in Boulder. It's much harder initially than the B17; the leather is,
> by my imprecise calculations, at least twice as thick;
I recently got a Berthoud Touring and I agree, the leather seems to be
at least twice as thick as a B.l7. I haven't ridden mine yet.
There's all sorts of evolution that's happened in the past 100 years,
but asses haven't changed at all.
I had an Ideale when it was new and it wasn't as comfortable and didn't
work as well as a B.17. It was one of those with the integral wide
aluminum rails and the built-in micro-adjusting clamp.
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Seems like the Berthoud Touring might make me completely happy.
René
Sent from my iPhone 4
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Can anyone provide how the Berthoud Touring Saddles would compare to a B17 saddle? I own B17 saddles but have never ridden a Berthoud one.
Sent from my iPhone 4
This will solve your saddle problem by, perhaps, transferring the
problem to the stem -- the last (Salsa) custom stems cost me about
$150, IIRC. Seriously, saddle position is the starting point of good
bike fit as the experts (not me, tho' I verified their wisdom in by my
own experience) including Grant always point out.
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm
"The Fore-Aft Saddle Position
Now we get to what I think is the most important part of fitting a
bicycle, the fore-aft position of the saddle. Once you get this right,
everything else is easy. ..."
--
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumesp...@gmail.com
The Fore-Aft Saddle Position
Now we get to what I think is the most important part of fitting a
bicycle, the fore-aft position of the saddle. Once you get this right,
everything else is easy. This position is determined more by how you
intend to use your bike than by anything else. If you look at a
typical bike, the saddle is behind the crank center, or bottom
bracket. There's a frame tube (the seat tube) running from the cranks
to the saddle, and it's at an angle. That angle partly determines the
fore-aft position of the saddle relative to the cranks and pedals.
That fore-aft position determines how your body is balanced on the
bicycle. Your balance determines how comfortable you are, and how
efficiently you can pedal the bike.
Stand up straight in front of a mirror and turn to the side. Look at
yourself in the mirror. When standing straight your head, hands, seat
and feet are all fairly close to being in line with each other. Now
bend over at the waist. Notice that not only has your head moved to a
position ahead of your feet, but your rear end has moved behind your
feet. If this were not the case, you would fall forward. Your seat
moves back when you bend at the waist to keep you in balance.
Your torso needs to be leaning forward for two reasons; power output
and aerodynamics. With an upright torso, you can't use the gluteus
muscles to good effect. Also, you can't effectively pull up on the
handlebar from an upright position. An upright torso is also very poor
aerodynamically. When cycling on level ground, the majority of your
effort goes against wind resistance. The easier it is for your body to
move through the air, the less work you'll have to do. With your torso
closer to horizontal, you present less frontal surface to the air and
don't have to work as hard to maintain a given speed.
Obviously, the most aerodynamically efficient position may not be the
most pleasant position to be in for several hours on a cross country
tour. So there's a tradeoff. As you move to a more horizontal
position, the saddle needs to be positioned further to the rear to
maintain your body's balance, just as your rear end moves to the rear
as you bend over while standing. It so happens that racers are more
inclined to use a horizontal torso position than tourers, and racers
are more concerned with having the handlebars further forward to make
climbing and sprinting out of the saddle more effective.
If a bicycle had the saddle directly over the cranks, you wouldn't be
able to lean your body forward without supporting the weight of your
torso with your arms. Because the saddle on a typical bicycle is
behind the cranks, your seat is positioned behind your feet and your
body can be in balance. Try this test. You'll need a friend to hold
the bike up, or set it on a wind trainer. Sit on your bike with your
hands on the handlebars and the crank arms horizontal. If you have a
drop bar, hold the bar out on the brake hoods. Try taking your hands
off the bar without moving your torso. If it's a strain to hold your
torso in that same position, that's an indication of the work your
arms are doing to hold you up.
For starters, I like to put the saddle in the forward most position
that allows the rider to lift his hands off of the handlebar and
maintain the torso position without strain. You should not feel like
you're about to fall forward when you lift off the handlebar. If it
makes no difference to your back muscles whether you have your hands
on the bars or not, you know that you aren't using your arms to
support your upper body. If you are, your arms and shoulders will
surely get tired on a long ride. But this is a starting position.
Remember that bicycle fit is a series of compromises.
So what's being compromised? Power. There's a limit to how far you can
comfortably reach to the handlebar while seated. If the saddle is well
back for balance, the handlebars will need to be back as well. But to
get power to the pedals while out of the saddle, it helps to have the
handlebars well forward of the cranks. Particularly when climbing out
of the saddle, the best position tends to be had with a long forward
reach to the bars. You can tell this is so by climbing a hill out of
the saddle with your hands as far forward on the brake lever tops as
you can hold them, then climbing the same hill with your hands as far
to the rear as you can on the bars. Chances are you can climb faster
with your hands further forward. So you need to find the best
compromise between a comfortable seated position and reach to the
handlebar, and a forward handlebar position for those times when you
need to stand. Only an inch or two in handlebar placement fore-aft can
make a big difference while climbing. That same inch or two in saddle
position can mean the difference between a comfortable 50 mile ride
and a stiff neck and sore shoulders!
As you move the saddle forward from that balanced position, you'll
have more and more weight supported by your arms, but you'll be able
to position the handlebars further forward for more power. The track
sprinter has the frame built with a rather steep seat tube angle,
which positions the saddle further forward from where the tourer would
want it. But again, the track sprinter spends very little time in the
saddle.
If you can't move your saddle forward enough or backward enough for
the fit you want, don't despair. Different saddles position the rails
further ahead than others, giving more or less saddle offset.
Seatposts are available with the clamps in different positions
relative to the centerline of the post.
So, how do YOU want to balance on YOUR bike? Do you want to emphasize
speed and acceleration? Do you care mostly about comfort and enjoying
the scenery? The answers to these questions determine how you position
the saddle, not some computer program or someone's system of charts
and graphs. How your best friend fits his bike should have no bearing
on what you do even if he has exactly the same body proportions as
you. YOU know why you ride a bike. Only YOU know what compromises you
are willing to make in order to achieve your purposes on a bicycle.
You may have a bicycle for short fast rides, and another for long
tours. Just as the two bikes will have different components so as to
be well suited for their purposes, so might the fit be different. The
rider hasn't changed. You are still you. But your purpose has changed.
The light, fast bike for short rides will likely have a more forward
and lower handlebar position than the tourer. And so the saddle may
well be further forward too.
As you move the saddle forward or rearward, you are also changing the
effective saddle height, relative to the cranks, since the saddle
rails are usually not perpendicular to the seat tube. So be prepared
to change the seat post extension as you adjust the fore-aft saddle
position; lowering the saddle as you move it back to maintain the same
leg extension, and raising it as you move the saddle forward.
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