Re-spacing a Phil Wood hub, 126-135

[Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles]

Anybody know if there are any solutions spacing out a 126mm freewheel rear hub to modern 135 spacing? I did some internet sleuthing but came up empty handed.

Thx!!

Alex in Rochester, NY

[Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles]

Just to be clear this question is specific to Phil Wood rear freewheel hubs only.

[Joe Bernard]

I did 135 down to 130 with spacers Phil sold me.

[Scott G.]

Phil sold me axle caps to switch from 126oln to 120oln.

There was one for each side, neatly machined steel stub axles,

[Ginz]

I also did this but my hub was older and didn't have the field serviceable axel.  I mailed it in and they switched the end caps with a press.  Cost me not a ton of money, but I don't recall how much.  Email their customer service and I bet they can get you set up.

[Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles]

It appears I have two different generations of hubs to complicate things further...the axle caps don’t appear to be readily removable. I think I’ll try Phil tomorrow and see if anyone picks up...I’ll update everyone with any knowledge I gain...

Pics below for reference

[J Imler]

I’ve got a Phil freewheel hub spaces to 135 that I’ve used on my Appaloosa. You need the correct length axel caps and then re-dish the wheel. I’ll be got an email with axel cap lengths from Phil that I’ll try to dig up.

[Joe Bernard]

You don't have to re-dish, I used correspondingly shorter end caps on each side to bring mine down from 135 to 130. But Alex's bigger problem is his older 126 hub doesn't use the easily replaceable caps I had, Phil needs to do it for him. Super not cheaply!

[J Imler]

Here's cap sizing info I received via email from Phil Wood.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1CN_npiNL-fVelnLUtBqmgTLOH5GEiaA8R7t5d9H-maU/edit?usp=sharing

[J Imler]

I went up from 130 to 135 and I think I did have mine redished by Rich. I think it may be dependent on the freewheel cog number you want to run and the frame sizing jump up or down that determines that. It's been a few years now so I can't recall really.

[Ginz]

I went from 130 to 135 and recall I did have to redish a little bit because they only replace one cap in this scenario. I don’t remember which side.

[lconley]

I also did this (130 to 135) last year - just replaced the non-drive side. I did it with the early style hub - used my automotive ball joint press.

Laing

On Friday, May 15, 2020 at 8:45:59 AM UTC-4, Ginz wrote:

[Rich Lesnik]

There are several factors at play. First, of course, is whether or not the current end caps are those which receive a 5mm hex wrench. If so, then you can move on to the next step. If not, then either a special press,or Phil Wood, will be needed.

Next step, make sure the drive-side end cap (if you're going to replace it) will provide enough depth for your freewheel. Different freewheels (5,6,7-cog, compact or "regular") require different depths of drive-side end caps. Once you've measured the depth of the drive-side end cap, you can determine the necessary non-drive-side end cap by adding the drive-side end-cap's depth to the width of the hub shell (I think it's 72.5, but you can measure it). An example:

IRD 7-sp. FW uses 28.5 drive side, and 35mm non-drive side.

I have lots of end caps, and would be happy to supply them.

Rich

[Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles]

Talked with PW yesterday. Dustin in service wanted me to send him an email with pics and summary of my request so he can quote and create a return authorization....

And today my emails got bounced as “mailbox full”

So I’ll call again next week 😑🤓