Velocity NoBS vs. Atlas?

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

If I'm understanding correctly, it would appear the NoBS is the same extrusion as the Atlas but just lacking anodization/finish and eyelets.  My interpretation of this is viewing the NoBS simply as an unrefined and more affordable/budget friendly Atlas.  Are my assumptions accurate?  Am I missing something and are there possibly other differences?

NoBS rim descriptions discuss thicker spoke beds and thicker sidewalls... but not in direct comparison to Atlas and Atlas rim descriptions (on Velocity's pages, etc.) are otherwise lacking.

The NoBS/Atlas has found it's way onto my short list for rims to consider for a potential no-nonsense, custom built, multi-purpose, multi-bike, dyno-hubbed, new front wheel with future-proofness being greatly taken into consideration.

My thinking goes as follows:

I currently have 4 different frames that share the 700c wheel size (two newer/nicer frames including my 65cm Clem, and two older/fixer-upper/beater level frames.)  They all have the same 9x100 spec'd fork ends with stock forks although nicer frame #2 is involved in an ongoing one-off project that involves a more useful/versatile replacement fork with 12x100 thru axle and disc brake spec.

I've considered just buying a complete 'off the shelf' thru axle disc wheel to accommodate this particular conversion project and being done with it but at $150-200 minimum investment at the lower end of those wheel specs I'm reconsidering and debating just taking this opportunity to invest in a quality handbuilt dyno front wheel that could maybe be moved from bike to bike as I rotate them annually and/or seasonally.

At first glance this wouldn't appear to make much sense with the differing hub and brake specs (9x100 vs 12x100 TA) but thanks to an adapter like this:

https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/hubs/son-12-mm-thru-axle-adapter/

  

I'm wondering if building up a single dyno wheel with 12x100 thru axle hub with center lock disc and a rim that could be used with rim brakes could be more cost effective and space-concious in the long run and with an adapter as linked above it could easily transfer over to my Clem and two other frames if needed/desired?

I'm not 100% set on the above rims but considering the range of tires I'd want/need to fit among the 4 different frames (32mm up to 50+mm(Clem)) this rim width seems to offer the best compromise and tire size range.

I understand there are more details to consider, such as wiring/lights/etc. that would make moving the wheel from bike to bike more complicated and not just a 'quick swap', but my intent would not be to have all 4 dyno ready at the same time.  I'd initially dedicate the new disc forked project to the generator system (as this is also primarily meant to be a winter bike with more night time riding expected) but with the ability to move this all over to my Clem and beater bikes whenever needed or wanted, since I still like to tinker and try new builds on occasion.

I realize I ventured a little further from my initial question and topic but now you know most of what I'm thinking.  I'm basically trying to determine if choosing something like the NoBS offers most, if not all, of the benefits of an Atlas but by shaving off $30 (or more like $60 if compared to the fully polished Atlas) this could help offset the cost of the more costly hub (whether SON, Shimano, etc.)

Brian Cole

Lawrenceville, NJ

 

 

 

[Deacon Patrick]

Precisely. I have both the NoBS and Atlas, and they are identical as far as I can tell other than the slight breaking in period of the NoBS with the rim brakes. Very minor.

With abandon,
Patrick

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

Thank you, Patrick.  Sounds like the no frills, NoBS rim could be just what I'm looking for.

Also just to clarify for anyone reading that may be wondering how my aforementioned thru axle disc fork is "a more useful/versatile replacement fork"... I'm specifically referring to it's rack compatibility vs the stock caliper rim brake fork which otherwise has no mounts or provisions for racks aside from one lower fender mount at the dropout.

So while the disc fork is less versatile regarding hub compatibility it's more versatile regarding racks and tire/fender fit for my intended winter and foul weather single speed all-rounder build.

[John McBurney]

I went through the same decision process  when rebuilding my wheels before doing the C&O/GAP ride last Oct. I was loaded out with bike, panniers and rider at 290 Lbs. My wheels were 32 spoke on a belt drive IGH bike. 

The trail was in pretty bad shape and in portions near Paw Paw WV there was deep standing water that lead me to drop into some pretty deep holes. 

The wheels came through unscathed. 

I spec’d Sapim Strong spokes along with NoBS rims. 

They are a nice width. 

Recommended. 

John  

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[Ian A]

Can't comment on the rims/differences therein, but in terms of switching one wheel among different bikes that aren't all disc models, I would suggest it's an idea in principle that will rarely be put into practice. Readjusting brakes and presumably moving over lights is time consuming enough to be majorly inconvenient.

My unsolicited advice would be to build up a purpose built dynamo disc wheel for the 12x100 bike, optimising the rim for that purpose.

Out of my four bikes (all canti brakes), three have dynamo hubs/lighting systems. I could share one dynamo hub and light(s) between the two 26" bikes, but it would be a royal pain. And even then it would only make sense to run dynamo front lights in that scenario. (The convenience of a dynamo rear light is greater in practice than in theory. I am slack about keeping batteries charged).

SoN hubs are costly, but the various Shimano and SP offerings are reasonable enough to be able to justify more than one bike in a fleet to have dynamo lighting.

My 2c only. Apologies for the answering a question not asked.

IanA Alberta Canada

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

Thanks, Ian.  I do appreciate the suggestion.  One detail I excluded is that my current mileage is limited and does not actually justify a fleet of 4 bicycles.  I'm also faced with a restricted budget and trying to avoid impulse or short term solutions that may end up costing more in the long run.  As a personal compromise, I've adopted the practice of keeping 2 bikes road ready but only one kept readily accessible in home at a time, with the 2nd complete and 2 spare frames plus parts packed away in available storage space thanks to generous family.  So I really only have one bike at a time in our small living space, with most rides going right out the door and through nearby parks and multi-use paths.  Clamp on battery lights have served me well for the most part and I keep another mounted on my helmet.  I'll often just rely on the helmet light during short evening rides, rather than take the time to locate and install the handlebar mounted one that often gets removed and/or kept in a saddle bag that may or may not be mounted on the bike at any given time (I shuffle among a few bags depending on type of ride so sometimes the lights just end up in the wrong bag at the wrong time.)

Part of the appeal for me is investing in a single reliable generator hub wheel that I'll keep regardless of what bike ends up becoming my primary bike, if that makes sense.  So the thought of having a rim that could withstand a few years of rim brake usage but continue to last indefinitely as a disc wheel on a potential future bike (maybe a BMC Monstercross Disc, which I've once considered as a replacement for my 3 lighter bikes and to downsize to a final 2 bike stable.)

Another reason I've hesitated to fully commit to a disc specific rim is that my recently limited mileage kind of makes tubeless irrelevant, so if going with tubes for the foreseeable future I think I'd rather just sacrifice the disc rim optimization altogether and go for a beefier rim brake rim and get greater usage of the generator wheel across a wider range of usage.

I've been back and forth about all of this so still just debating all the possibilities.

Thanks.

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

greater usage of the generator wheel across a wider range of applications, is what I meant to say.

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

And thank you, John, for sharing your experience with the NoBS rims. Sounds like they were a good fit for your adventure!

It’s very possible I may end up just trying one of the $200 disc wheels in the interim and if that build doesn’t work out as a keeper I could sell the whole thing with the wheel but I’d hate to do that only to in turn want to upgrade later and having a hard time justifying a dedicated disc dyno wheel for an unproven conversion/build. Adding the extra flexibility may help move into generator territory altogether.

[ascpgh]

I began my generator hub experience by considering moving my wheel to other bikes, rationalizing my SON expense across several bikes.

I used the centerlock disc format to serve my disc braked commuter but allow me to spin off the ring, pull the disc and run it on my other bike. I used the same Velocity rim as my non-disc bike so its braking performance wasn’t diminished.

Fast forward to now, I’m getting another SON and Light for a new project. Gen hubs and wired lights are such a transforming addition to a bike you really will use and enjoy.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

[Robert Liebermann]

I have both also, and the eyelets and polish level seem to be the difference (and label - the Atlas label is nice and pretty, the Nobs label less so in a sort of not quite as ugly as the Surly logo level). I haven't tried the super shiny version of Atlas yet, just the regular shiny. 

The Nobs seem plenty strong, the Atlas just a little fancier looking.

These are the only rims I've bought in years now, just what I like: US made, silver, modest logo-ization, good quality, easy to deal with company, 'normal' shape, variety of sizes and drillings (and some that aren't listed; ask Velocity), strong... 

No need to go with anything else despite fancier names or pretensions, in my opinion. 

//rjl

Lake Superior

 

 

[Tom Wyland]

John,

Is the new set of wheels you described 32 spoke? Or was that the old set?  I have a pair of 32 spoke wheels (on Mavic Open Pro 700c narrower rims) and I could never keep them true.  Is it different with wider rims?

Tom

[John McBurney]

Here’s the beast fully loaded. 

These are a rebuild of the 32 spoke Alfine IGH hub rear and the Alfine 32 spoke front. I think the rims are stout. The Sapim Strong spokes 

https://www.sapim.be/spokes/butted/strong

Are a key part of the build. DT uses lower strength steel  in their heavier gauge spokes but Sapim uses the same high strength stainless as in the C-X-ray. And of course the build quality is very important. 

I commute nearly every day on this bike except when its beautiful weather I may ride the Bombadil 🙂 

Wheels are still straight. 

John

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

Yes, exactly, if not for centerlock disc I probably wouldn't bother even thinking of it.  I've had to deal with drilling out stuck and stripped torx bolts on an old 26" 6 bolt front disc hub.  Ironically, this wheel was from an old 'comfort MTB' (marketed as a hybrid back when my wife first bought it) with both IS disc tab and v-brake posts on the fork and seemed like the same wheel was spec'd on each level of the same model and could be used as disc or rim brake.  I've since used the same wheel as a spare for rim brakes without issue but with the marred 6 bolt rotor mounts still there as a reminder and eyesore.

After viewing numerous center lock hubs recently I'd have no issue with seeing the unused center lock mount on a rim brake bike even if sticking to rim brakes indefinitely.

That still leaves a concern regarding the QR adapters with 12x100 TA hubs and whether there are any compatibility issues among them.

The available hubs I've been drawn to most are the SON and Shimano offerings.  I also just found a new Shimano release I still need to research a bit more:

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deorext-t8000/DH-UR705-3D.html