ISO MTB 1" threadless fork.

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Hugh Smitham

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Apr 12, 2016, 7:23:20 PM4/12/16
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I have a 1995 Salsa Ala Carte 18" MTB wirh Judy XC Rocshock. Ideally I'd love an uncut steerer tube and if I'm dreaming anything cage mounts. Does anyone know if such a fork exists new? I sort think not since I have the 1" headset. I'd like to get the handlebars up.

I've also thought about having the existing steerer tube removed and replaced with a longer steerer, but I figure that's probably unlikely with finding a 1" uncut steerer would be next to impossible to find.

Your thoughts.

~Hugh
Los Angeles, CA

Patrick Moore

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Apr 12, 2016, 7:39:12 PM4/12/16
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Hugh: I just replaced the ~ 8 cm 10* rise stem on my Bontrager Race Lite with a ~11 cm 45* rise stem, which gets the bar about an inch higher, and this after I cut ~ 1 cm from the steerer. The stem also puts the bar about 1" further out, but the overall effect is a much more comfortable bar.

Point being: perhaps an upjutter stem will solve your problem?

My fork is what I guess is the OEM Bomber, with 1" threadless steerer. Both stems are 1 1/8", and I use shims -- in fact, the new upjutter stem required 1 and 1/4 shims (I cut a second shim to fit) as the clamp area was considerably deeper than that of the stem it replaced.

FWIW, my brother has 2 steel, single-bolt clamp, doubtless 25.4mm clamp, 1" threadless stems that must be 140 or 150 mm in extension with a similar 45* or so rise. I'm tempted to try one of those with a dirt drop bar, instead of the cut down Origin 8 swept back bar I now have.

As for replacing, I should think that a good builder could easily source and replace your steerer. "I should think": I am guessing.

Despite the photo, the bar is actually about 1" below saddle nose.

Inline image 1

This is what it looked like with the shorter stem and original (but cut down) bar:

Inline image 2

Philip Kim

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Apr 12, 2016, 8:06:29 PM4/12/16
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maybe something. Like this? http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/high-rider-stem-adapter-threadless-steerers

Though you need a shim for the steerer part.

Maybe this might be better if you're not opposed to quill http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/quillinator

Patrick Moore

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Apr 12, 2016, 8:15:58 PM4/12/16
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Hey, I could run a Cinelli 1A on my Bontrager!


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Hugh Smitham

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Apr 13, 2016, 2:26:37 AM4/13/16
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Weird none of these reply's made it to my Gmail account.

Patrick, yeah the bottom image is what my Salsa looks like right now with the original Salsa stem and 130mm of extension. My back and neck hate it but it looks sweet. I ordered a 90mm 40º rise stem and some Aluminum MTB bars with 9º sweep back and 80mm of rise. I'll be using the shims for the steerer connection and may need to make a few adjustments. Your steerer even cut is still longer than what I have. Maybe Philip's suggestion is the less expensive solution. I think Doug P. from the group used this very extension from Soma. If the two items above don't work I may give the high rider stem adapter a go.

When you say source you mean actually fabricate a new steerer I assume. That would ultimately be my desire but then price might be the determining factor as in too much $.

By the way that's a great looking rig. What are the specs? Drive? Wheels and tires? Looks like you updated the drive train to 9 speed. Are you the original owner?


~Hugh

Hugh Smitham

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Apr 13, 2016, 2:29:52 AM4/13/16
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Thanks Phillip. I totally forgot about these. With the first one I'd still need to use a shim and the second one is there enough depth for a quill to insert enough to be safe? I imagine so since they make it, I'm guessing the quill goes down part way into the 1" threadless steerer.

~Hugh

Patrick Moore

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Apr 13, 2016, 3:31:05 AM4/13/16
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Hugh: I traded the bike for work (resume + LI profile); at a discount but my time/value ratio is flexible.

I don't know if the one I bought it from was the original owner, but I am at least owner #2. Someone along the way had the frame powdercoated in that nice yellow.

It's a 1996 frame, still Santa Cruz built, with the later mono-stay-to-seat-tube junction, but with the original type gussets at strategic joints.

Components are a mishmash of mid-to-high-end; LX hubs; XTR der; crabon fibre Bontrager crank; high end parallelogram Shimano V brakes (XT? XTR?).

I modified it: Swapped out the tubed WTB tires for tubeless Maxxis Ikons, ~56 mm actual width; the straightish bar (forget what) for Origin 8 sweepback with extensions -- cut grip area by 1" each; cut extensions by 1" each; installed triggers and brake levers on the extensions stubs. The bar is probably a good 2" higher than it was originally, with the long and low Nitto stem. (I installed a similarly low, but shorter 8 cm stem; then swapped that one out with the upjutter in the photo.)

The drivetrain is: 9 speed cassette, 44/32/22 Bontrager triple; XTR derailleurs and triggers: originals, as bought. I dropped the 11-32 9 sp cassette to this, which gives me a 65" cruising gear in straight-as-arrow-chainline 44 X 18. The chart doesn't show the gears on the 22 t granny, obviously.

26.75
44 32
13 91 66
15 78 57
17 69 50
18 65 48
20 59 43
22 54 39
24 49 36
28 42 31
32 27

Hugh Smitham

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Apr 13, 2016, 3:58:43 AM4/13/16
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Patrick,

Are you running tubeless?  If so what rims are you rolling? Did you just convert to tubeless with non tubeless rims? Using something like stan's?

~Hugh

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Patrick Moore

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Apr 13, 2016, 4:07:21 AM4/13/16
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Yes, tubeless. The wheels are those that came with the bike when I bought it: 24 m outside width "DT Swiss XR 4 Ceramic". The rims are not designed for tubeless systems, but the Maxxis Ikon tires are designed for tubeless use; so I guess that the setup is quasi-ghetto.

I think Vaughn at Stevie's used Stan's tape; 3 layers, IIRC. The sealant is Orange Seal.

Note: A couple of months ago, I removed the valve cores so that I could replenish the sealant. On the front, the beads retained their seal, so no problem. But the rear lost ithe seal, and I had to pump frantically with my floor pump to (just barely) get enough air into the casing to blow the beads back against the rim sidewalls. I will probably ask Vaughn to add another layer of tape to at least the rear rim.

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Hugh Smitham

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Apr 13, 2016, 11:54:09 AM4/13/16
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Thanks Patrick, I think I'm going to try tubeless on my setup, but I've heard it's a pain to set up. 

~Hugh

“Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving.” ― Albert Einstein

iamkeith

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Apr 13, 2016, 3:24:27 PM4/13/16
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This may or may not work:


The shortest one offered is 413mm a-c though, which I think would roughly translate to most 80mm travel forks with 15% sag.  The problem, I think, is that in '95, most mountain bikes probably had a 63mm travel fork.  The judy could be configured either way, by some point.  So it might be too tall.  Unfortunately, most aftermarket 1" forks that I've known of have been in this 410mm to 413mm range.

Joe Bunik

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Apr 13, 2016, 3:27:04 PM4/13/16
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Hugh,

How about one of these new-run Project 2 forks:
http://www.bikeman.com/KON-P2MTNONEINCH.html

=- Joe Bunik
Walnut Creek, CA

Hugh Smitham

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Apr 13, 2016, 3:47:13 PM4/13/16
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Thanks Joe! That's awesome and may be the trick.

~Hugh

“Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving.” ― Albert Einstein

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